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Use this guide to replace the daughterboard on a Samsung Galaxy S6. The daughterboard is home to the headphone jack, LED soft buttons, and the USB charging port. If you're having charging issues or your aux port isn't working, replacing the daughterboard is a good place to start.

This guide involves removing the rear glass. Removing the rear glass destroys the adhesive holding it in place. Follow this guide to reinstall the rear glass.

  1. Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone. Press to eject the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the hole in the SIM card slot on the power button side of the phone.

    • Press to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Don't press too hard or you may damage the SIM card tray.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Yanıt

    Done. Thanks for the tip!

    Minor editor -

  2. Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

  3. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Yanıt

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Yanıt

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Yanıt

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Yanıt

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Yanıt

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Yanıt

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Yanıt

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Yanıt

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Yanıt

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Yanıt

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Yanıt

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Yanıt

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Yanıt

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Yanıt

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Yanıt

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Yanıt

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Yanıt

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Yanıt

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Yanıt

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Yanıt

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Yanıt

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Yanıt

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Yanıt

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Yanıt

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Yanıt

  4. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Yanıt

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Yanıt

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Yanıt

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Yanıt

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Yanıt

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Yanıt

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Yanıt

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Yanıt

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Yanıt

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Yanıt

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Yanıt

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Yanıt

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Yanıt

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Yanıt

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Yanıt

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Yanıt

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Yanıt

  5. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Yanıt

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Yanıt

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Yanıt

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Yanıt

  6. Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive. If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.
    • Opening your phone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement adhesive ready before you proceed, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your phone without replacing the adhesive.

    • If your glass is shattered, put packing tape over the entire panel to hold it together during the removal process.

    • Lay the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to loosen the adhesive around the edge of the glass.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • Shift the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the OLED display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Yanıt

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Yanıt

    haha, the same happened for me after using a hair dryer. While still hot, the paint peeled of very easily. (too bad the mid-frame visually blocks most of the circuits…)

    Michael -

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Yanıt

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Yanıt

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Yanıt

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Yanıt

    I had a pristine s6 edge I’m replacing the battery in. I can agree with many others about the amount of heart needed and need to where gloves. I had to heat several times using a heat gun. After several attempts phone broke free from suction cup went flying and now I have a phone with broken screen. Oh well, glad it’s not my primary phone. After getting it above 100c, the back glass finally started to separate. You need another person to be ready with a pick. Once you get one pick in, the rest is .

    Brian Gillan - Yanıt

    Neither I had any success with the iopener. I ended up heating with a hair dryer. The metallic edges become quite hot.

    BTW: My phone’s “Rear Glass” is actually plastic. It didn’t seem like it would crack very easily.

    Michael - Yanıt

    To get an even heat distribution at just the right temperature to easily pry the back off I used a steam iron, dry, set between wool and cotton. To hold down the phone I clamped it at the long edges with 2 strips of 1/4” furniture grade plywood cut at 7 degrees, screwed to 2’ 2x6; and then clamped the 2x6 to my work table. This made it much easier to persuade to back off without any oops!

    Michael Bielec - Yanıt

    I used a hot and cold gel pad usually intended for injuries. It needed about 4 cycles of warming the phone but then worked like a charm.

    Sam Turner - Yanıt

  7. Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge  of the glass. Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap. Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.
    • Once the rear glass is hot to the touch, apply a suction cup near the bottom edge of the glass.

    • Lift on the suction cup to create a small gap underneath the rear glass, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Optionally, once the pick is inserted, you can add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap to help weaken the adhesive in the following steps.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Yanıt

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    [deleted] - Yanıt

    I think it is just about impossible to do this without at least removing some paint on the edges. Order a new back before you attempt this. It has the adhesive already on it and costs less than $10 on eBay.

    Thomas Hayes - Yanıt

    In order to get in more easily, I normally use the iFlex (the metal one) which is thin enough to create a little space, and then i insert a thinner plastic sheet, just like the default screen protector you might find on some huawei or xiaomi phones. That plus half a drop of alcohol should do the trick. Use caution and be very patient.

    Stefano Restuccia - Yanıt

    Ridiculous. I put a heat gun on mine for 30 seconds, 3 times, couldn’t get the screen to move AT ALL while pulling very hard with suction cups.

    Enough of this ‘you don’t get to mess with the battery’ nonsense. Quit screwing people over. Also, I love my ifixit kit. I had to make the post less negative.

    Adam Talbott - Yanıt

    Really struggling removing the screen. It’s not budging at all.

    Paul Knight - Yanıt

  8. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass. Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.
    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the rear glass.

    • Afterward, it may help to leave the pick in place and grab a second pick as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.

    • Re-heat the rear glass as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.

    Be careful that the bottom of the phone is well heated, and add a drop or so of isopropyl alcohol. When I removed the back glass of my S6, some of the black coating on the glass stayed stuck to the adhesive, so to return my phone to its original appearance, I’ll have to get a new back glass.

    Gary F - Yanıt

    I needed help of a second person to insert the first pick. Apart from that, it was a one person job for me.

    Michael - Yanıt

  9. Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone. Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing. Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Repeat the heating and cutting procedure for the remaining three sides of the phone.

    • Leave an opening pick under each edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Yanıt

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Yanıt

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Yanıt

  10. Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive. Remove the rear glass.
    • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

    • Remove the rear glass.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Yanıt

    This is also a really good time to remove the SIM tray

    John Murphy - Yanıt

  11. To install new rear glass: Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis.
    • To install new rear glass:

    • Use tweezers to peel away any remaining adhesive from the phone's chassis.

    • Clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

    • Peel the adhesive backing off of the new rear glass, carefully line up one edge of the glass against the phone chassis, and firmly press the glass onto the phone.

    • If you're reinstalling the old rear glass, or using rear glass without adhesive pre-installed, follow this guide.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Yanıt

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Yanıt

  12. Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.
    • Remove the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws securing the midframe to the phone.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Yanıt

    Some of the female threads are soft plastic and will strip out easily (especially those near the bottom). I was pressing down too hard when removing these screws, and several of them stripped out. The frame still screwed together, but I couldn’t get them very tight.

    Jordan Butler - Yanıt

  13. Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly. Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone. While lifting the midframe, be careful to avoid snagging it on the audio jack or charging port.
    • Firmly grasp the edge of the midframe assembly.

    • Lift up on the midframe assembly while pushing down on the battery to separate the midframe assembly from the rest of the phone.

    • While lifting the midframe, be careful to avoid snagging it on the audio jack or charging port.

    • Once the midframe is partially seperated, carefully run an opening pick around the edges of the rest of the phone to separate the top of the midframe.

    • Be careful not to accidentally insert the opening pick between the glass and display.

    • To avoid damage to the headphone jack, remove the top of the midframe first, then push the midframe downwards to disengage it from the headphone jack.

    • You may need to heat and apply an iOpener to the edges of the display to soften the display adhesive if midframe separation is difficult.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Yanıt

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Yanıt

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Yanıt

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Yanıt

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Yanıt

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Yanıt

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Yanıt

    Don’t stick a pick into the screen side of the frame. You will almost certainly start to separate the digitizer and LCD. Plus there is hardly anything to pry against anyway.

    Thomas Hayes - Yanıt

  14. Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.
    • Lift the midframe assembly up to separate it from the rest of the phone.

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Yanıt

  15. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.

  16. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard. Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.
    • Use the pointed edge of a spudger to disconnect the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the motherboard.

    This portion of the repair caused me problems after phone was closed up. The bluetooth cable on the left of the phone was not placed back into its cable track and was pinched off by screen once frame was placed in metal housing.

    Sebastian Diaz - Yanıt

  17. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector. Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.
    • Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the home button connector.

  18. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard.

    Does taking the motherboard out wipe the phone?

    Uil'yam - Yanıt

    No, after disconnecting the battery there’s no way for info to be moved from the memory, until it’s connected to a power source again.

    Wayne Lyell - Yanıt

  19. Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable  connector from the motherboard. Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable  connector from the motherboard.
    • Disconnect the earpiece speaker assembly cable connector from the motherboard.

  20. Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame. You may need to move some of the ribbon cables out of the way while you lift the motherboard. If the board is hard to lift, check that it is fully disconnected and not caught on any ribbon cables.
    • Lift the camera-side end of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame.

    • You may need to move some of the ribbon cables out of the way while you lift the motherboard. If the board is hard to lift, check that it is fully disconnected and not caught on any ribbon cables.

    • Do not fully remove the motherboard yet—it is still attached to the daughterboard via a ribbon cable on the underside of the motherboard.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard.

  22. If your display glass is badly cracked, tape over the glass to contain stray glass and make prying easier. Reheat the iOpener.
    • If your display glass is badly cracked, tape over the glass to contain stray glass and make prying easier.

    • Reheat the iOpener.

    • Lay the iOpener across the S6 display. After two minutes, shift the iOpener to the other half of the screen.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  23. Insert the opening pick in the battery-side edge of the phone, between the frame and display, at an upward angle. When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly. When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the glass. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.
    • Insert the opening pick in the battery-side edge of the phone, between the frame and display, at an upward angle.

    • When done correctly, you will see a gap between the display frame and the display assembly.

    • When done incorrectly, the pick will be visible through the glass. If this happens simply remove the pick and start again.

    I was too vigorous with the pick, and maybe not pointed up (away from the glass) enough, but I got the pick far enough into the digitiser that it peeled the glass off of the digitiser. Ruined it. If you can see the pick through the glass STOP.

    Buck - Yanıt

    in my own opinion, a better/easier method is to actually remove the battery after disconnecting all of the connections from the daughter/logic board, and if you slide a pick inbetween the plastic to where its visible where the battery originally was, you’re doing it correctly. if you can see it through the glass screen as if you were looking at your phone, you’re going between the LCD/Digitizer Assembly, and the Protective Glass Screen Overlay. If you’re removing the LCD/Digitizer/Glass Screen as a Whole, being able to see the pick through the battery compartment is a great, and easy way to know youre okay. This is a Great repair guide, but Repairs Universe on YT did an extremely thorough job on walking me through the replacement procedure and LCD&Digitzer removal.

    Josh Baldwin - Yanıt

    Hi Josh,

    I agree that having that visual cue is a very handy option. If you are also replacing the battery, this is a great option!

    We opted not to suggest battery removal because of safety reasons. We recommend against re-installing used batteries. Any prying action or bend could have compromised the battery even if you can’t see it, and cause problems in the long term.

    Arthur Shi -

  24. Slide the pick down the edge of the display to separate the adhesive underneath. Stop cutting when you get to the daughterboard to avoid the delicate capacitive button under the display.
    • Slide the pick down the edge of the display to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Stop cutting when you get to the daughterboard to avoid the delicate capacitive button under the display.

    • If cutting becomes difficult at any point, reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

  25. Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, from the headphone jack to just past the charging port. Do not insert the opening pick more than 0.25 inches (~6mm) to avoid damaging the home button.
    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the phone, from the headphone jack to just past the charging port.

    • Do not insert the opening pick more than 0.25 inches (~6mm) to avoid damaging the home button.

  26. Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, near the headphone jack. Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.
    • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, near the headphone jack.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

    • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

    • If you do break either of the capacitive buttons or ribbon cables, you can replace the daughterboard assembly, which includes new capacitive buttons.

  27. Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the display. Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.
    • Insert an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the display.

    • Keep a close eye on the button's ribbon cable as you insert the pick. The cable is fragile and very easy to tear. If the pick is hard to insert or the cable starts to stretch, apply more heat.

    • Leave the pick under the display to prevent the button from re-adhering to the display.

  28. Slide an opening pick along the side of the phone opposite the battery to separate the adhesive underneath. After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.
    • Slide an opening pick along the side of the phone opposite the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • After cutting the adhesive, leave the pick in the side of the display to prevent the display from re-adhering to the frame.

  29. Slide a pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator. Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille. Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.
    • Slide a pick along the top of the phone towards the vibrator.

    • Pull the pick out slightly to avoid the earpiece speaker grille.

  30. Use an opening pick to gently pry the battery side of the frame away from the display. If the display and frame to not separate easily, use an opening pick to cut any remaining adhesive. If cutting is difficult, reheat and reapply an iOpener.
    • Use an opening pick to gently pry the battery side of the frame away from the display.

    • If the display and frame to not separate easily, use an opening pick to cut any remaining adhesive. If cutting is difficult, reheat and reapply an iOpener.

    • Do not completely remove the display yet. The display cable is still threaded through the frame.

    This should really be pointed out more than it is. I've gone through a few phones by destroying the IC. Of course if you're doing the repair without instructions it's no ones fault but your own. (guilty) But... This warning should be in BOLD and CAPPED with blinking lights and arrows.

    Felix Robinson - Yanıt

  31. Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display. Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display.
    • Route the display's flex cable through its hole in the frame in order to fully separate the right edge of the display.

  32. Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.
    • Before installing a new display, it's very important to remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, while taking special care to remove any small glass fragments.

    • After removing all traces of glue and glass from the frame, clean the adhesion areas with 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

    • If the frame is bent, or if any glue or glass remnants are left behind, the new display will not mount correctly and may be damaged. If necessary, replace the frame.

    • The best way to secure the new screen is with a sheet of custom-cut double-sided tape. Apply the tape to the back of the screen, then carefully feed the display cable through the frame. Align the screen and press it into place.

    Great illustrations and the best tutorial I have seen. Steps are easy and simple to follow.

    Rafael - Yanıt

    Really good to follow reparing the phone. But i'm afarid of seeing other word like korea

    James - Yanıt

    C'etait extrêmement difficile pour ma part.

    It was extremely difficult for me.

    Easy Repair - Yanıt

    Umm, I bought the ifixit screen repair kit and battery repair kit, but you guys never talk about how, when, and where the white adhesive goes, what step, etc… I also have two blue strips that I”m not sure what they’re for. ???

    John R - Yanıt

  33. Remove the single 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw securing the daughterboard to the display frame.
    • Remove the single 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw securing the daughterboard to the display frame.

    What happens if that screw isn't there?

    Sare - Yanıt

  34. Flip the display frame over so the home button is facing you. Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable. Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame.
    • Flip the display frame over so the home button is facing you.

    • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable.

    • Gently lift the LED cable off the display frame.

    • Be careful to not rip these delicate cables when peeling them off the plastic frame.

    I was transferring the daughterboard to a different frame. Flipped up the led cables and realized that the LEDs remained in the recessed area on the old frame. I thought these LEDs would peel off as a unit with the cables. It did not. Is this normal?

    Lloyd Campbell - Yanıt

  35. Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove above the left soft button LED cable. Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame. Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.
    • Insert the pointed edge of the spudger into the groove above the left soft button LED cable.

    • Lift the left soft button LED cable off the plastic frame.

  36. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame. Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame.
    • Flip the frame over again and lift up the daughterboard to peel it off the display frame.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. When reinstalling the rear glass, refer to the rear glass adhesive replacement guide.

91 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Dante Mazzanti

Üyelik tarihi: 13-07-2015

35.118 İtibar

26 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

31 Yorum

Step 41

I could not find any led cables... after the repair the led soft keys work and vibrate but do not light up... anyway to fix this problem? Fixing g925a

Devin Gonzales - Yanıt

It seems like you've damaged the Flex oder the Button itself. If youve allready checked the connection to Motherboard, then you need to replace the Daughterboard to solve the issue

Patrick -

For step 41

I could not find and led cables to remove... and after there repair the led light forsaken the soft keys do not light up but they do work and vibrate... what should I do?

Devin Gonzales - Yanıt

I would definitely recommend heating and prying before carrying out step 17. There is a lot of glue holding the frame together and not heating and prying could easily lead to screen damage.

Marty - Yanıt

STEP 30 - What about the glue between the plastic frame and display assembly. Is there a product to use to glue it up again?

aaron - Yanıt

Do you know if coaxial antenna cable from s6 edge works on s6? I managed to broke it and i dont find to buy for s6.

Tracke - Yanıt

Hello, I replaced the "daughter board" thinking it would fix my microphone issue but it did not. I tried restoring the phone and still nothing. I have no water damage. Does anyone have any suggestions? Please help.

drumerkid424 - Yanıt

Often times you can fix mic. issues by turning off noise cancellation in the settings. Especially if you sound like you are in a tunnel or there is a lot of echo.

Reid Nuttall -

It could be incompatible. There are about 10 different charging ports made for this Galaxy s6 and its variations. If the wrong one from the wrong network is put in sometimes cables don't reach and additional problems due to a mismatch may occur.

The void spaces in the device's frame allow the correct board and board components to fit. Correctly matched parts allow the mother/daughter board to fit flat (as designed) and go back together once you are done replacing parts. If a mic does not match up to it's hole through the frame, you might block sound. Look at the frame to the right of the charging port while the screen is face up. If that hole is clogged it should be cleaned. If the sound quality improves, than I would probably consider opening it up to clean the inside of the frame and the mic.

One more thing. A microphone actually. With your phone's back side down, viewing from the top, there is a microphone hole just to the left of the infrared blaster. I do believe this one is attached to the motherboard.

Raymond Vassil - Yanıt

Doing it this way is terrible, and for the most part worthless, unless the screen is already damaged.

The only safe way to replace the charging port is to desolder it and resolder a new one on. Otherwise...

kyle - Yanıt

What? I bought a board for £6 on eBay and fitted no issue. Have you soldered a plug on? Good luck!

derek -

I have carried out the repair and the phone is now chargeing shown by the led's at the top of the screen however the LCD is not powering on and the phone does not vibrate when I hold down the button any help would be appreciated

jack moffett - Yanıt

Same problem, my screen wont come on! :(

mistikempire -

I have a problem where when i connect the charger to my phone (Samsung galaxy s6) and it does not charge my phone, I don't think my charger or my cable have problem because I had try to connect to other gadget and its charging, my question is ,is it my phone has a problem at charging daughter board or the problem is at the other place like maybe I should change the charger or somethg.

Akmal aslan - Yanıt

If charging port not working then you can get an induction charger and charge it wirelessly. This has worked for my son's phone with no problems.

Alex Robertson -

I just started having this problem as well. A newly purchased induction charger is also not charging the battery. The Qi pad seems to detect that the phone is placed on top, but the phone does not register any charge. Also, the USB charge cable sometimes is detected for a few seconds and charge is briefly indicated, then the phone no longer recognizes the cable or the charger.

Nelson Butterworth -

I tore the copper foil on the back of the display assembly in step 39.

What is it for? Can it be replaced?

AjL - Yanıt

Well, when removing the display assembly, it turned out I first removed only the glass, and after attempting to remove the LCD, I broke it. Word of caution - the LCD is very fragile - it breaks even with a very light bend.

Boris Lazarov - Yanıt

The glass back is very difficult to get off. I recommend using a heat gun or hair dryer.

Ryan Ho - Yanıt

but what if it breaks it

Jacob Wander - Yanıt

what if it breaks the phone?

Jacob Wander - Yanıt

Unless your very lucky, you will break your screen if you do this that way. Do this only if you replace your screen too!

Cabrini Vincent - Yanıt

My phone is not charging but overheating is this the problem with the daugther board??

Marko Shen - Yanıt

CAUTION: Don’t do this repair unless you really can’t use the phone. Removing the display to replace the charger port is tantamount to madness . The display very likely to get damaged. I did this all very carefully and came out with half a dead digitizer (touch screen) . You can easily destroy the display, and the LED sensor backlights are delicate to place. You’ll need to buy a new front glue film stencil because you aren’t replacing with a new screen. I would much rather have lived with the charging problem than with a dead screen. A huge problem with the above method is guaranteeing you are separating the right layer - When I inserted the pick at the first point, it came through underneath the black insulation film stuck to the screen. https://youtu.be/Ghh_CQnh_yk tells you how to avoid this. Many other videos such as https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnQFtcTj... show you can try re-soldering the USB port without messing with the screen.

I C - Yanıt

Also, since every s6 repair starts with “remove the back glass” it should be much more widely stated: Removing the back glass will damage it! At the very least, your entry point is likely to chip some paint off near the edge. Sliding even a thin plastic wedge will do this. The paint separates easily from the glass - either due to aging or the heat you just applied! Unless you have the right heating equipment with temp control and know exactly what you are doing - and even then I doubt it will be perfect. The videos don’t show up the small chips. You could live with the damage, if its minor, but your phone won’t be perfect . In my case the pain came off in great sheets, so I scraped it all off and had a transparent back! Just take the hit and get a new back glass and glue stencil along with your replacement parts. Same applies to the paint on the edges of the front (LCD) panel - and there the solution of getting a new one is not an option (unless its broken).

I C - Yanıt

I carried out the repair successfully partially following this guide. I am an experienced technician and have carried out several similar repairs. I have damaged the screen only on one occasion. I usually do not remove the lcd completely but only de-glue/separate the bottom part of the screen from the frame to make enough room to remove the daughterboard flexes (soft buttons). A safer way to separate the screen is use a thin laminated playing card and insert it gently, after applying heat, in between the frame and LCD assembly from the back of the LCD instead of using a pick.

Mirco Scaramucci - Yanıt

Does this guide also work with Galaxy s6+ edge?

Lolypopxp Warcrafter - Yanıt

Since replacing a daughter board on a s6 I no longer pick up signal on the phone. Any ideas how I can resolve this ?

thanks

Lochlan chamberlin - Yanıt

Blue dot of death, after following instructions. Am I screwed?

Thanks

Lowell Sonne - Yanıt

So I followed this procedure, tore the foil on the back of the screen as I was removing it. Not sure if that’s an issue, but after reassembly, the phone will not turn on. The screen is black occasionally flickering like it’s trying to come on, and the blue LED is on constant. None of the buttons work, even to try to force it to shut down. The only way to get the LED to turn off and the screen to stop flickering is to unplug the battery. I replaced the battery and the daughterboard. Haven’t applied any new adhesive yet, so I can still easily disassemble the phone. Any advice?

Marshall Peters - Yanıt

Samsung are evil for creating the phone like this. Having to remove the screen to replace the charging port is just a bad design choice. Luckily they sorted it out later on and now the charging port on later Samsung phones comes out on its own. The screen will almost certainly be damaged or even destroyed during this repair.

John Sinclair - Yanıt

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