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Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi

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Videoya Genel Bakış

  1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, iOpener'ı Isıtma: adım 1, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, iOpener'ı Isıtma: adım 1, 2 resimden 2.
    • İşleme başlamadan önce mikrodalganızı temizlenmenizi tavsiye ederiz. Aksi takdirde, yüzeydeki yağlı maddeler iOpener'a yapışabilir.

    • iOpener'ı mikrodalga fırının ortasına yerleştirin.

    • Döner tablalı mikrodalga fırınlar için: Tablanın sorunsuz bir şekilde döndüğünden emin olun. Aksi takdirde, iOpener'ınız takılıp fazla ısınabilir ve yanabilir.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Yanıt

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Yanıt

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Yanıt

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Yanıt

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Yanıt

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Yanıt

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Yanıt

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Yanıt

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Yanıt

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Yanıt

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Yanıt

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Yanıt

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Yanıt

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Yanıt

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Yanıt

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Yanıt

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Yanıt

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Yanıt

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Yanıt

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Yanıt

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Yanıt

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Yanıt

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Yanıt

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Yanıt

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Yanıt

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Yanıt

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Yanıt

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Yanıt

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Yanıt

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Yanıt

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Yanıt

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Yanıt

  2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 2, 1 resimden 1.
    • iOpener'ı otuz saniye boyunca ısıtın.

    • Tamir süresince iOpener ısınacağı için, tek seferde otuz saniye olmak üzere yeniden ısıtın.

    • Tamir süresince iOpener'ı fazla ısıtmamaya dikkat edin; fazla ısıtma iOpener'ın patlamasına sebep olabilir.

    • iOpener'ın kabarık bir görüntüsü varsa, kesinlikle dokunmayın.

    • iOpener'ın orta kısmı hala dokunulamayacak kadar sıcaksa, tekrar ısıtmadan önce biraz daha kullanabilirsiniz. Doğru bir şekilde ısıtılmış iOpener, yaklaşık 10 dakika kadar sıcak kalacaktır.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Yanıt

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Yanıt

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Yanıt

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Yanıt

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Yanıt

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Yanıt

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Yanıt

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Yanıt

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Yanıt

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Yanıt

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Yanıt

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Yanıt

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Yanıt

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Yanıt

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Yanıt

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Yanıt

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Yanıt

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Yanıt

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Yanıt

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Yanıt

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Yanıt

  3. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 3, 1 resimden 1.
    • iOpener'ı sıcak olan ortasından değil, herhangi iki ucun birinden tutarak mikrodalga fırından çıkartın.

    • iOpener fırından çıktığında epey sıcak olacaktır, dikkat edin. Gerekli ise, fırın eldiveni kullanabilirsiniz.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Yanıt

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Yanıt

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Yanıt

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Yanıt

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Yanıt

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Yanıt

  4. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Arka Cam Aksamı: adım 4, 1 resimden 1.
    • Telefonunuzu açmak, su geçirmez contalarını riske atacaktır. Devam etmeden önce yedek yapıştırıcı bulundurun veya telefonunuzu yapıştırıcıyı değiştirmeden yeniden monte ederseniz sıvı temasından uzak tutmaya dikkat edin.

    • Isıtılmış iOpener'ı, S8'in üstüne uzunlamasına uygulayın yaklaşık iki dakika uygulayın.

    • Telefonu yeterince ısıtmak için iOpener'ı tekrar ısıtmanız ve uygulamanız gerekebilir. Aşırı ısınmayı önlemek için iOpener talimatlarını takip edin.

    • iOpener yerine, bir saç kurutma makinesi, ısı tabancası veya sıcak plaka da kullanılabilir, ancak telefonu aşırı ısıtmamaya dikkat edin - hem OLED ekran hem de dahili pil ısı hasarına karşı hassastır.

    • Yapışkanın yumuşamasını beklerken, bir sonraki adımı okumaya geçin ve nereden kanırtmanız gerektiğine dair fikir edinin.

    What type of adhesive should be used to seal? Or better said, what would you recommend.

    Ion Ion - Yanıt

    I’d recommend precut adhesive designed for the rear cover. If that’s not available, thin, hi-bond double sided tape like 1 mm wide Tesa 61395 tape will work well.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Yes, different microwaves have different power levels (e.g., wattage) so one microwave may explode the iOpener after 31 seconds of heating whereas another microwave will barely warm it. It would be helpful to have a more precise target temperature. My microwave is fairly weak so I’m heating it for seven seconds for every two minutes against the phone. In theory, this should slowly add more heat than is dissipated into the phone and surrounding atmosphere.

    Brett Stime - Yanıt

  5. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 5, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 5, 2 resimden 2.
    • Bu adımda, cam panelin çevresindeki yapışkanı kesiyor olacaksınız.

    • Arka kapaktaki yapışkan, birinci resimde görüldüğü gibi yayılmıştır.

    • Kanırtmak için takip edeceğiniz yolun dışarıdan görüntüsü şöyledir:

    • Kalın tabaka yapışkanın kullanıldığı alan

    • İnce tabaka yapışkanın kullanıldığı alan

    • Parmak izi sensörünü korumak için bu bölgeyi kanırtmaktan kaçının.

    Go clockwise (or counter-clockwise) around the border to avoid causing extra stress on the back. The bottom has a lot more adhesive than you think, towards the top-center.

    Michael M - Yanıt

    Failing completely at this step. I’ve heated the opener like 5 times and the phone is hot to the touch, but I can’t get even the tip of the pick into the opening.

    r torrance andrews - Yanıt

    Added a hair dryer to the effort and stil making no headway at all.

    r torrance andrews - Yanıt

    Be careful. Insanely careful. If you think you are careful enough, this means you need to be even more careful. If you think it is not possible to be more careful, then be a little more careful and you might be able to remove the back cover without breaking it. Especially the bottom of the phone.

    pio - Yanıt

  6. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 6, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 6, 2 resimden 2.
    • Arka panel dokunulabilecek kadar ısındığında, telefonun kavizli kenarına denk gelmeyecek şekilde ısınmış bölgeye vantuz uygulayın.

    • Vantuz, cam yüzeyin kavizli kenarını kuvvetli bir şekilde tutmayacaktır.

    • Eğer telefonun arka kapağı çatlaksa, vantuz yüzeye yapışmayacaktır. Kapağı güçlü bant ile kaldırmayı deneyin ya da vantuzu yapıştırıp sabitleyin ve uygulamayı devam ettirin.

    • Vantuzu kaldırın ve arka camın altına kancalı Spudger veya açma penası sokun.

    • Kavisli cam nedeniyle, vantuzu telefonun düzlemine paralel olarak yerleştirmek yerine, yukarı itiyor olacaksınız.

    We can't seem to get anything between the edges even after heating the back panel. Any tips?

    Megan Kennington - Yanıt

    Hi Megan, unfortunately the adhesive is super tough on this one. I’d recommend carefully continuing to apply heat, very gradually so that you don’t accidentally overheat the battery. Eventually you should be able to get a little gap with the suction handle.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I’ve been attempting to get the adhesive to loosen for four hours now. Exactly how much time is this supposed to take? The pictures makes it look like it should be easy. The adhesive still hasn’t budged and I’m beyond frustrated.

    Lori Lucas - Yanıt

    Hi Lori, sorry to hear the adhesive is being extra stubborn! If reheating and reapplying the iOpener isn’t working, you can try heating the edge with a hairdryer or heat gun. That way you can get more heat onto the edge faster, but be very careful not to overheat the battery inside.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a stanley knife - very carefully, after trying for several hours to get the adhesive to loosen. I bought another back cover with adhesive for the assmbley, which is the best option in my opinion. Just be careful not the scratch the case of the phone, and be prepared for the back glass cover to break when removing it.

    James wright - Yanıt

    The manufacturers really want to make this impossible, huh… I’ve gone 3 years without ever cracking this phone and end up cracking the corner of the back trying to prise it open. Probably should’ve gotten a heat gun too. This is super tight.

    Benjamin Chaim - Yanıt

    I am currently working on this. I have heated the phone to just barely to hot to hold. No matter how many times I've done this and pulled up with a suction cup I cannot get an edge to lift.

    Being that this is my second phone repair does anyone have advice on this? I've watched several YouTube videos and it looks so easy.

    DAVID LAWRENCE - Yanıt

    I suggest you try to lift on the middle of an edge using the thinnest spudger you have. also as the edge is curved remember to insert it so to follow the curve. Hopes it helps

    Cajuteq -

    Our issue was that a small gap would open when using the iOpener, but not large enough to get spudger or opening picks in there (also tried hair dryer but same result). Luckily as a guitar player I had some very thin nylon picks that we were able to get in there, which opened up a large enough gap to get the spudger and opening picks in. From there, we were able to heat the other sides and guide the spudger around the entire edge to get the back glass off.

    First we used a Dunlop nylon .38 mm guitar pick, then a .60 mm pick, and that allowed us to get the spudger in.

    Dan Coleman - Yanıt

    This is by far the hardest part of any tutorial that requires you to open the Samsung. The iOpener is totally useless on my opinion (it doesn’t get warm enough). What I did instead is use a hairdryer but it took me time before I could get the adhesive soft enough. Especially since I was not able to measure the temperature of the phone will warming it. Also I think that the halberd is not thin enough so I used a radiology sheet (don’t know the right word in English) to get into the phone and it was much more effective and time saving. Thank you for the tutorial and good luck !

    Thomas Alliot - Yanıt

    Use a utility knife blade to work around the edges. Careful not to pry on the blade since you risk cracking the back

    Derek Gibson - Yanıt

    I bought a back glass replacement kit with the battery kit since mine was cracked already. I used both iOpeners to uniformly heat the whole back along both long edges. I microwaved each pack twice over 10 mins. 5 mins apply, microwave, 5 minutes apply. That worked!

    William Mellema - Yanıt

    Similar to other posts, this appeared simpler. I have a couple of tube socks filled with rice that we use a lot for a sore back. Put in microwave for 5 minutes and an amazing heat pack. So I thought I would try this instead of the iOpener as it just was not getting the phone warm enough. Wrapped the phone in the riced-filled-tube sock for a couple of minutes, to the point where I could at least pick it up and hold it. Also, I have the full IFIXIT kit, so I pulled out the jimmy. Viola. Got right in and then allowed me to use the halberd and picks to finish it off.

    kendrickcc - Yanıt

    I was able to do this with the iOpener warming pad by microwaving for the suggested 30secs then leaving it on for 10 mins. repeated this process 2 more times for a total of 3 times @ 30 mins and used the suction tool and the picks to get it open. There is a considerable amount of adhesive on the tops and bottoms of the phone. So consider warming the whole phone before doing it.

    Note: if you already have a cracked back panel (like me) prior to starting the process, consider getting the replacement as the already cracked panel will crack even more as you are cutting away at the adhesive. Goodluck!

    Harry Williams - Yanıt

    After over an hour of trying to use heat and the suction tool loosen the adhesive and try to get an opening on one of the edges, I used the blue spudger to see if it would slip thru the edge and it did. I was able to loosen the majority of the back glass but ended up getting excited and rushing and cracked the top corner. I was able to complete the battery replacement and use the cracked back glass. I’m going to order a replacement for that and that should be easier. Lesson to be learned, if any part of the back glass is getting a little tougher to loosen, hit it with heat again just to be safe. The rest of the replacement we pretty straight forward.

    MJH - Yanıt

    The spudger provided in ifixit repair tool kit is not the same as the one used in this guide and can not be used in the same way as the spudger used in this guide. So I am pretty much winging it on the most critical point of this disassembly. This is extremely frustrating.

    Brent Neilson - Yanıt

    I’ve repaired many iphones but this was my first attempt on a Samsung. I made no headway at all on opening the case and I’ve decided to just live with the battery being kind of weak. Even with a short life, I would much rather use this phone than an Iphone.

    r torrance andrews - Yanıt

    I've tried 5 times in over the course of 4 hours to loosen the adhesive on this phone, and it won't budge. Unfortunately this kit is useless to me

    Emily Reese - Yanıt

    Once I opened one edge, I heated up the other edges then just moved the pick around the entire perimeter of the phone to break the adhesive.

    Stephen Legg - Yanıt

  7. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 7, 1 resimden 1.
    • Penayı sıkıca cama yerleştirdikten sonra, yapıştırıcıyı yumuşatmak için iOpener'ı tekrar ısıtın ve yeniden uygulayın.

    svmesung is onoff and

    moo rayner - Yanıt

  8. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 8, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 8, 2 resimden 2.
    • Açma penasını veya kancalı Spudger'ın bıcak kısmını telefonun yan tarafındaki açıklıktan aşağıya doğru kaydırın, yapışkanı ayırın.

    • Yavaşça hareket edin, böylece uç birleşme noktasından kaymaz. Kaydırma işlemi zorlaşırsa, iOpener'ı tekrar ısıtın ve yeniden uygulayın.

    Cracked my glass multiple times, do this very slowly and with more heat to each new area.

    Gary Mirams - Yanıt

    Second on cracking the back glass. Go slow and apply heat to each side before trying to pry it open.

    Adam Huber - Yanıt

  9. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 9, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 9, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 9, 3 resimden 3.
    • Telefonun diğer üç tarafı için de önceki ısıtma ve ayırma prosedürünü tekrarlayın.

    • Yapışkanın tekrar kapanmasını önlemek için telefonun her bir yanında açma penasını takılı bırakarak devam edin.

    Petite erreur: le guide dit iPhone au lieu de S7 :)

    Nicolas Duthilleul - Yanıt

    Bonjour Nicolas ! Merci pour la remarque ;-) Nous l’avons prise en compte et corrigé la traduction. La prochaine fois, n’hésitez pas à corriger directement en cliquant sur le bouton Traduire en haut à droite de l’étape.

    Claire Miesch -

  10. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 10, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 10, 2 resimden 2.
    • Parmak izi sensörü kablosu, telefonu ana kameranın yakınındaki arka camına bağlar. Bu kablo çok kısadır ve arka cam çıkarıldığında bağlantısı kesilmelidir.

    • Camı kaldırırken, mavi konektörlü turuncu kablonun bağlantısının kesildiğinden emin olun.

    • Kalan yapıştırıcıyı sıyırmak için açma penasını kullanın ve telefonu hafifçe açın.

    • Parmak izi sensörü kablosu takılmışsa veya gergin duruyorsa telefonu daha fazla açmayın. Devam etmeden önce konektörü bir Spudger'ın ucu ile ayırın.

    • Yeniden monte ederken, parmak izi sensör kablosunu tekrar takmak için, önce kablo konektörü kendi yuvasının üzerinden mükemmel bir şekilde hizalanacak açıda arka kapağı açın. Ardından, konektörü yavaşça aşağı doğru bastırarak yerine oturtmak için Spudger'ın düz ucunu kullanın.

    • Camı, telefondan ayırın.

    For reassembly, if the fingerprint scanner is removed from the back cover: it’s much easier to place the fingerprint scanner in the small compartment on the back of the phone, connect it and then finally put the replacement back cover on. The adhesive on the inside of the back cover will get connect to the fingerprint scanner and hold it tightly.

    Brian Hoffmann - Yanıt

    I wish I saw this comment earlier because it's absolutely correct. I hope iFixit remedies this because it is incredibly difficult to connect the sensor when it's already adhered to the glass. It took me a good while and I ended up using some tape to keep the back glass aligned while I used the spudger to push blindly until it snapped into place. The only way I knew it worked was because I tested the sensor before fully sealing the glass.

    Preston Steimel -

    The NFC antenna and coil assembly might get stick to the back cover due to adhesive spreads while trying to pry the back cover to open the phone. Take a look inside to ensure the assebly has not got sticked. If so, try using a credit card like plastic to get it peeled of from back cover without breaking the assembly always paying attention to the fingerprint sensor as well.

    dcode - Yanıt

    Reconnecting this cable seems like it would be very tricky: how can you get the pieces close enough together to make the connection without having the perimeter adhesive start to connect the front and back? It seems like that adhesive could easily get messed up at this point.

    r torrance andrews - Yanıt

    To remove the akku, high temperature was NOT constructive!! I used ethanol (cc.) instead and it worked in between 2 minutes. I think it´s also better to open the coverage in this way. Instead of heating it.

    Franz Gassner - Yanıt

  11. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 11, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Tesa 61395 Tape
    $5.99
    Satın Al
    • Arka kapağı tekrar monte etmek için:

    • İlk olarak, telefonun arka kapağı ve kasasından arta kalan yapıştırıcıyı çıkarmak için cımbız kullanın.

    • Daha sonra, yüksek konsantrasyonlu izopropil alkol (en az% 90) ve hav bırakmayan bir bezle yapışma bölgelerini temizleyin. Sadece bir yönde temizleyin, bezi ileri ve geri hareket ettirmeyin. Bu, yeni yapıştırıcı için yüzeyin hazırlanmasına yardımcı olacaktır.

    • Telefonunuza yapıştırıyıcı uygulayıp kasasını kapatmadan önce, tamirinizi test etmek için telefonu açın.

    • Yedek yapıştırıcı, arka kapağın çerçevesiyle tam eşleşecek şekilde önceden kesilmiş bir tabaka halinde gelir. Bu mümkün değilse, Tesa 61395 gibi kuvvetli bir çift taraflı bant kullanabilirsiniz. Ancak bu uygulamanın, sıvı girişine izin verecek boşlukların oluşmasına neden olabileceğini unutmayın.

    • Arka kapağı yerleştirdikten sonra, telefonun birkaç ağır kitabın altında koyarak, yapışkanın iyice tutmasına yardımcı olmak için birkaç dakika boyunca güçlü ve sabit bir basınç uygulayın.

    • Dilerseniz, arka kapağı yapışkanı yenilemeden yerine yerleştirebilirsiniz. Büyük ebatlı yapışkan artıklarını temizleyerek kapağın yerine düzgün oturmasını sağlayın. Kapağı yerleştirdikten sonra ısı uygulayın ve baskı uygulayarak sabitleyin. Suya dayanıklı olmayacakır ama yapışkanı, kapağı tutmak için yeterince kuvvetli olacaktır.

    Bonjour,

    Vous parlez d’ajouter de l’adhésif, comment et où le trouve-t-on cet adhésif ?

    Difficile à appliquer ?

    Cordialement,

    Stéphane

    Steph D - Yanıt

    Mille excuses, je viens de voir les “adhesive strips” :)

    Steph D - Yanıt

    I broke the rear glass trying to get all the adhesive off! Be very careful!!

    jimhunz - Yanıt

    Be careful with the NFC Antenna/Charging Coil Assembly. It’s covered in a black wrapping that can look like adhesive. Don’t scratch too hard with the spudger, the wrapping will come off!

    Michael M - Yanıt

    Hello, I appreciate that tuto, very detailed for a somewhat subtle job . Is it possible to use one of the 7000 or 8000 glues in place of the adhesive Stickers ? Thanks

    Isaac OLEG - Yanıt

  12. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, NFC Anteni ve Şarj Bobininin Aksamı: adım 12, 1 resimden 1.
    • Oniki adet 3,5 mm Philips vidaları çıkartın.

    Are all the screws the same size? I do not have a way to organize every little screw and part of this phone.

    Gavin Clark - Yanıt

    Hi Gavin, all the screws in this step are 3.7 mm long, so you can safely swap these screws with one another.

    Adam O'Camb -

    The 3 screws on the lower left are not necessary to remove the battery, only the top 8 screws.

    Miles Raymond - Yanıt

  13. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 13, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 13, 2 resimden 2.
    • NFC antenini ve şarj bobini aksamını çıkartın.

    I had to pry off the NFC antenna and charging coil assembly from the back cover. The adhesive probably spread a little bit while prying around the phone sticking some part of the NCF antenna and coild assembly sticked to the back cover. I had to use a credit card like pice of plastic to get it unsticked from the back cover without bearking it.

    dcode - Yanıt

    This doesn’t really cover the last step of removing the NFC antenna/charge coil pad from the upper removable frame segment. Those two components separate and the new one adheres back onto that upper frame section. While its fairly self explanatory, it would be nice to have an illustration of that separation.

    JPagel - Yanıt

    There's also the fingerprint sensor, which I almost accidentally pulled off.

    Kristajn - Yanıt

    Yes need more details, difficult to remove, not solid, mostly plastic film

    Lyle Walsh - Yanıt

  14. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Hoparlör Aksamı: adım 14, 1 resimden 1.
    • Üç adet 3,7 mm Phillips #000 vidayı sökün.

    This is also unnecessary for replacing the battery.

    Miles Raymond - Yanıt

    I found removing the loudspeaker assembly provided better access to the bottom edge of the battery, making it easier to remove.

    Greg Knowles - Yanıt

  15. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 15, 1 resimden 1.
    • Hoparlör aksamını çıkartın.

    Mine stuck, pry from the little L extension

    Lyle Walsh - Yanıt

  16. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, SIM Kart: adım 16, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, SIM Kart: adım 16, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, SIM Kart: adım 16, 3 resimden 3.
    • SIM kart açma aletini telefonun sol üst köşesinde yer alan küçük deliğe sokun.

    • Tepsiyi çıkartmak için bastırın.

    • SIM kart tepsisini telefondan çıkartın.

    • SIM kartı tekrar yerleştirirken, tepsinin doğru yönde yerleştirdiğinizden emin olun.

    Vielen Dank!

    Ist die SIM+SDcard-Tray vom Samsung Galaxy S8 und Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus gleich?

    Bzw. kann ich eine SIM+SDcard-Tray von einem Samsung Galaxy S8 in einem Samsung Galaxy S8 Plus verwenden?

    Photelegy - Yanıt

    How do you fix it if the sim card tray is broken and did not fully eject?

    A Google User - Yanıt

  17. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Pil Bağlantısı: adım 17, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Pil Bağlantısı: adım 17, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak pil bağlantısını kesin.

    • Bir sonraki adımda pil gösterilmiyor olsa da, bu kılavuz için pili yerinden çıkartmanıza gerek yoktur. Sadece pilin bağlantısını kesmeniz, devam etmeniz için yeterlidir.

    I noticed that due to the no lead soldering used today, even a 24 pins socket for a connector can be stripped if no prying tool is used to disconnect it. Soldering back implies having a binocular or good microscope and is not really easy

    Isaac OLEG - Yanıt

  18. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Anakart: adım 18, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Anakart: adım 18, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak sensör dizininin bağlantısını kesin.

  19. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 19, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 19, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak ön tarafa bakan kameranın bağlantısını kesin.

  20. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 20, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 20, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak ekran ve dijitalleştirici bağlantısını kesin.

  21. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 21, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 21, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 21, 3 resimden 3.
    • Spudger'ın sivri ucunu kullanarak ana kart ile yardımcı kartı bağlayan iki anten kablosununun bağlantısını kesin.

  22. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 22, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 22, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak ana kartı yardımcı karta bağlanyan antenin şerit kablosunu çıkartın.

    **READ**

    Hopefully you’re skimming this guide before you’ve bought your supplies.

    If you are using the Exynos (G950F) variant, then this particular connection between the mother- and daughterboards does not exist. There are only the blue and white antennae mentioned in step 21.

    If you are in North America, you are likely using/fixing the Snapdragon (G950U) version of the s8, which is used in this guide. However, if you are outside North America, it will be worth checking which version you have, as you will need to purchase that specific daughter-board; they are not interchangeable.

    William - Yanıt

  23. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 23, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 23, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın düz yüzeyini kullanarak ana kartı yukarı doğru kaldırın ve yardımcı karttan ayırın.

  24. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 24, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 24, 2 resimden 2.
    • Ana kartı telefondan kaldırın.

    • Eğer pili çıkartmamayı tercih ettiyseniz, pil konektörüne takılmamaya dikkat edin.

    Comment enlever l'appareil photo arrière ?

    Easy Repair - Yanıt

    Gracias nueva mente por sus aportaciones. Son lo máximo.

    NELSON ESTREMERA - Yanıt

  25. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, Kulaklık Jakı: adım 25, 1 resimden 1.
    • Bir adet 3 mm Phillips #000 vidayı çıkartın.

  26. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 26, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 26, 2 resimden 2.
    • Spudger'ın ucunu kullanarak kulaklık jakının bağlantısını sökün.

  27. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 27, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 27, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 27, 3 resimden 3.
    • Şerit kablonun en yakın noktasının karşı köşesine denk gelecek şekilde, kulaklık jakıyla kartın arasına Spudger'ın sivri ucunu yerleştirin.

    • Spudger'ı nazikçe kanırtarak kulaklık jakını, karttan ayırın.

    • Kulaklık jakını çıkartın.

  28. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, I/O Yardımcı kart: adım 28, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, I/O Yardımcı kart: adım 28, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi, I/O Yardımcı kart: adım 28, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pil kompartmanının yanındaki iki anten kablosunu yuvasından çıkartmak için cımbız kullanın.

  29. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 29, 3 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 29, 3 resimden 2. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 29, 3 resimden 3.
    • Anten kablolarını çıkartmak için cımbızı kullanmaya devam edin.

  30. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 30, 1 resimden 1.
    • Beş adet 3 mm Phillips #000 vidayı çıkartın.

  31. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 31, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 31, 2 resimden 2.
    • Anakart konektörünü nazikçe telefonun alt kısmına doğru yatırın ve antenin şerit kablosunu yolundan çıkartın.

  32. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 32, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 32, 2 resimden 2.
    • Kasanın kenarından antenin şerit kablosunu çekmek için nazikçe cımbızı kullanın.

    My S8 didn't actually have this cable (step 23). Its a mid-2018 model.

    Daryl L - Yanıt

  33. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 33, 2 resimden 1. Samsung Galaxy S8 I/O Yardımcı kart Değişimi: adım 33, 2 resimden 2.
    • Yardımcı kartı kasadan çıkartmak için cımbızı kullanın.

Sonuç

Yapıştırıcıyı yeniden uyguladıktan sonra, buradaki talimatların tam tersi sırasını takip edin.

51 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

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Adam O'Camb

Üyelik tarihi: 04/11/15

195.318 İtibar

416 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

9 Yorum

Something you should add is that the battery temperature sensor is actually on the wireless charging coil. Unless you screw that part on, adding a new daughter board and plugging it in will result in the phone thinking the battery temperature is too low and thus it won't charge

Chinook Piroh - Yanıt

Hi i just change the motherboard and the battery is new the display show ( ! ) is not working. Can you help me to solve the problem. Thank you

kee nguang Tan - Yanıt

Step 22 does not apply to the Samsung galaxy s8 SM-G950F, the daughterboard is different and does not have that connector for anyone trying to source one !

Aidan Mongan - Yanıt

sm-g930F, daughter board does not have the 3mm screws .it seems to use an elastic at each en to hold in place. has anyone successfully replaced this daughterboard?

Andrew Murray28/09/2020

Andrew Murray - Yanıt

That battery temperature thing really confused me while testing as I put things back together. Makes sense it worked fine when I put back together after I'd had enough.

I found the finger print reader easier to put on after removing it from the case. My finger print reader didn't work after I put it back together. But started working the next day.

I found it easier to connect the motherboard to the daughter board when the daughter board is fixed in, then you just hold the motherboard vertically, click them together and tilt the motherboard back into place while using something to poke the flap connectors out the way.

Those two wires/ arieals? They loop under the motherboard for when the speaker goes back on.

As you're testing as you put things back together, the volume buttons only work when everything is screwed back in. I've come across this before on other samsung phones, killed me the first time trying to figure it out!!

Matthew Bolt - Yanıt

Hi, I followed all the steps and managed to get the daughterboard in place but then there weren’t any instructions on how to reassemble it other than to do the steps in reverse…I ran into difficulties with the proximity sensor and can’t get it back in place.

When I plugged in the usb cable it flashed that it was charging for a second then stopped which makes me think the problem might be with the battery even though it was flagging a problem with moisture in the charging port originally.

Thanks.

Seamus Enright - Yanıt

Thank you so much for this guide. I needed around 5-6 hours to replace the daughterboard and assemble all parts of the phone but it was totaly worth the time. It took a while untill i got the right level of heat on the iOpener to get the glue soft enough to open the backcover. It needed some time to get the figerprintsensor connected with the phone as well. But for the first time that i tried (and success) to repair a Phone this effort of time was quite ok. I learned a lot, had a good time and most important my phone works for 100% again.

Thanks again and keep doing that awesome work!

Billy Hill - Yanıt

Where is this temp thing ? I just replaced my daughter board and I’m getting a notification about it. How do I fix it? Also my phone won’t make a call now. jspurgo@yahoo.com

james spurgeon - Yanıt

My daughterboard came without the sensor from step 33

Cole Arnold - Yanıt

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