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To remove the ear cushions, press firmly down and rotate them clockwise, it should twist about 2mm and release, allowing you to pull it off.
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Remove the screws (9.47 mm Phillips head) from the blue plating on the headset to reveal the inside.
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If you are working on the LEFT side ear, you will first have to detach the battery by gently unplugging the white plug on the top of the board.
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If you are working on the RIGHT side ear, you will first have to remove the charging contacts (2 7.92 mm Phillips screws).
Ignore the right side it’s unnecessary for a battery replacement.
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Desolder the necessary wires. (Each side will be slightly different.)
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Remove the 4 screws (7.71mm Phillips head) using the #0 screw bit, that are holding the board in place.
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Finally, remove the audio board.
100% skip the soldering step for the battery replacement. I don’t know why this is even in this guide. No soldering iron is needed just take care of the thin wires connected to the board. Before even moving the board use tweezers to remove the two microphones from the bottom right a left sides by positioning the tweezers under them and sliding them towards you and out. Mind the impossibly thin wires connecting them to the board. Then carefully move the board aside by lifting from the top where the battery plugs in, then flipping the board to the left. Now you can remove the battery.
Thank you so much Deric, one thing to add up is that you should tranfer the glue pad and cushion pad from the old battery to the new one, other than that I would say this project is really easy if you take caution, took me about 15 minutes, so don't be scared, these headset are worth the replacement as you all know!
Where do I get the new battery. Any links would be much appreciated
Yeah same would be nice to get a battery link as the one linked at the top is US only, and I’m from the UK so it won’t ship here.
Sp803048 Dxr-8 Battery Replacement 3.7v Lithium Battery 1500mAh for Infant Optics DXR-8 Video Baby Monitor
If you search the above text into amazon you'll get a battery that works. I was also struggling to find a 3 wire battery- UK only seemed to have 2 wires. I'm yet to do this replacement but I'm pretty sure the plastic thing that plugs into the motherboard is slightly different on this battery so you've got to cut the old one off and connect it to the new battery. I'm sure you can just use electric tape but I'll probably solder it just in case. I'll comment as to how it goes.
Hello. Just finished this successfully. Thank you Deric, your comments really helped. I sourced a straight swap battery (1000mAh) in UK on Amazon UK if you search the head phone model and battery. Deric’s tip to remove the microphones is key to doing. They slide out easily. Soldering would be too difficult for me on this tiny PCB. Thank you. GG.
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Remove the battery by carefully prying it from the headset.
So which Battery do I need?
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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So there are two batteries in this headset that need to be replaced?
Also, what battery do I purchase and does anyone know a good source to purchase them?
Max battery size: 50x36x9mm
Origina battery: 40x30x8mm
The pcm board can be replacement by old battery module.
Only one battery inside. Not sure why this guide takes appart the whole headset.
All steps&pictures related to right side (step 1, 2 and 4) are misleading and unnecessary when doing just battery replacement.
I ordered replacement on aliexpress.
What part number please and thank you in advance
Look at Hixon 3.7v Rechargeable Li-polymer battery for MP3. Specific size 40×30×8mm. That looks to be the correct battery.
Hello, I purchased this battery for the replacement on the 800x but it takes a bit of modification.
1200mAh Extended Battery for TomTom One IQ, V2, V3, V4, XL & XL-S GPS Devices (Not compatible with any of the TomTom One N14644 GPS Unit).by MPF Products®
Link:http://a.co/gmBaiVw
I have tested the headset at full volume and with 2 devices hooked up on bluetooth.
The battery last for about 10-11hrs in till it powers down…… I included a link down below to a drop box folder with pics to give a better idea of how I did the modification.
I found this battery, would it be ok to use? VINTRONS Rechargeable Battery 1200mAh For iPOD 4th Generatio, 616-0183 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KG71XZI/r...
John -
that might be a bit to long… I had to cut out a little of the plastic toward the bottom to fit the battery that was was 45mm long, 34mm wide, 8mm thick.
Why did the TomTom battery you purchased require modification? It looks like you bought a 3pin battery, and the turtle beach headset was already a 3pin connector. Where the connectors actually different, and the battery connector purchased off amazon didn’t fit into the headset board?
I did this and it works great. You do have to trim the plastic for proper clearance since the battery is a bit larger. You have to cut and solder the old battery 3 pin connector to the new battery because they are different sizes. But other than that works great. Thanks soakman707
Can you just pop the pins and swap the connectors?
I just used this battery, was very easy. Just had to remove the channels where the wires were on the left side. If this battery is used, instead of cutting and splicing the wires just depin the plugs and swap them.
Yes you can, was very easy I just did it
Ok thanks for getting back to me. Which of the dimension was to big, 45mm? Or 35? I’ve been having a good look around, had no idea it would be so difficult to source a battery lol. The post above dated 19/10/17 regarding dimensions, do you know if the original dimensions are accurate?
51mm is to long. The PCM board with 3 pins(if u have old battery) can be replacement to the new battery. So u don't need 3 cable in new battery. All batteries are the same, only PCM board can be different and pins size.
Cables in original battery:
Red +
Black -
Blue Thermistor
Thanks for the advice, I think I've found one that will be perfect.
John -
I put a new one in that’s 1500mAh and it lasts a long time. I bought it from a Chinese battery manufacturer and the size or part number is 903040 (9mmx30mmx40mm). Just needed to solder old battery circuit board to new battery.
troy -
I'm modifying to external 18650 battery 3100 mah should last 36hrs
Can you give link where you bought that battery?
Shahreyz -
Just did this.. took all of 10 minutes not including the time it took for the iron to get hot. To replace the battery you only need to work on the left side as said above and you don’t need to de-solder anything from the board. Skip step 4!
In order to keep the battery from rattling around you need to use some double faced foam tape and apply it as it was done on the original battery. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing when you splice so you don’t short against the pcb board.
Works great!
PS: if you don’t want to get inside the headphones to replace the battery just use a standard usb power bank battery and stuff it in your shirt pocket. Works for hours and hours! I did this for a month waiting to have the time to do the replacement.
I replaced mine with a 1500mAh and here are the details if someone wants to contact the supplier.
Need-For-Power Motor Co., Ltd.
info@nfpmotor.com
Note to Need-For-Power Motor Co., Ltd.
LiPo Battery LP903040 1,500mAh 3.7V with protection circuit and wires 50mm 1pc: USD15.00/pc (Sample fee) Shipping fee: USD 25.00 to most of the countries. Total: USD 40.00.
Warning just use old circuit board as you need all 3 wires for it to charge.
I contacted the lot your are talking about and yes they do this battery and I ordered one and installed it today. Yes skip step 4 and did the following specific for this battery only: Desoldered the old battery cards off each battery and swapped the old 3 wired battery card onto the new battery and installed it as per the steps above in guide. At this stage it works completely fine including charging. I will leave another message here after a month to update you all on its average battery life.
Any one in the uk managed to source a replacement battery for the 800x? Most of the ones I’ve seen look to only have 2 wires instead of the 3 on the current battery. If need to do something extra with regard to reusing the existing 3 pin connector can someone provide some instructions for this too? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I’m no expert when it comes to these things :-)
I’ve gone ahead and ordered 2 off ebay and hope they are fine and will work, the 2 I’ve ordered are:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-7V-1500-mAh...
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Rich -
Did you get the battery to work
Will the ps4 controller battery work???
Used this as a resource, and I had a few comments on the tutorial:
1 - You don’t need to desolder anything
2 - Battery is in the left ear cup
3 - upon reassembly be sure to test the buttons, it is easy to misalign, as they are plastic rods that go from the face of the ear cup to the circuit board.
4 - I used a 1500mAh battery, this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071...
it fits without any modification to the headset plastic. All I had to do was cut the wires from the battery and solder to the wires on the connector. Red = Red, Black = Black, Blue = Yellow.
5 - Original battery is affixed with double sided tape, I used Velcro to provide flexible positioning.
Not sure if anyone is keeping up on this thread or not, but I want to replace the battery in my Elite 800 (not X). I have a soldering kit, but if possible I’d like to just unplug the old battery and plug in a new one without cutting any wires or soldering (my soldering skills are rudimentary at beast, lol). Is this possible or is the original plug in the headset custom/proprietary? If anyone could answer this or provide a link to a battery which I could just swap, plug and play style, I’d much appreciate it. Cheers!
Unfortunately there is no available battery that you can just swap in without having to cut the old battery wires (unless you can get a donor headset to rip the battery out of). Turtle Beach wasn’t thinking about user-end repairs and never thought it necessary to provide replacement parts for the 800(x) headsets. If it were still under warranty they would just send you a new pair (unless it was like a plate or ear pad that needed to be replaced.)
The battery I went with (which you will need to cut and solder) was this: https://www.amazon.com/AOTU-1500mAh-Repl...
(Thanks to @mez_jr for suggesting it)
~12 hours of usage on full charge and fits nicely where the old battery was, needs a little bit of foam tape so that it doesn’t slide around in the casing.
Thanks for the reply. That seems to be the one everyone is going for. My main concern (not being that sophisticated in my knowledge of Li-ion batteries or electronics) was that the wh rating differs from the original battery. Original battery seems to indicate 3.7v and 3.7 wh at 1000mah whereas this one is 3.7v 5.55Wh 1500mah. The extra mah would just result in longer battery life I assume, but does a different wattage produce a chance for danger/fire/charging issues/etc? I’d hate to be enjoying a game when my left ear explodes or catches fire. This is really a shame that they were so shortsighted on longterm use of the headset as it’s really a nice headset other than the battery life issue.
I replaced my battery with one I pulled from an aftermarket PDP afterglow PS3 controller.
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Its the perfect size.
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The controller battery is 2 wires so I took the protection circuit off the old battery and connected the new battery to it. (Headset will not charge battery if there is no 3rd wire.)
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Now essentially have double the protection.
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Front Of Battery:
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Back Of Battery:
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Battery Pulled From Controller:
some body can tell me if this one is good
Yes that one looks good based on the dimensions.
mzb -
I live in the UK, does anybody have a link to a battery that will fit in my Elite 800’s? I have tried to order the Aotu batteries from Amazon but there are non available here & it wont allow me to order to deliver to the uk
This one looks exactly like the one I bought, just higher mAh. Should fit.
1500mAh Polymer Lithium-ion Rechargeable Replacement Battery for Infant Optics DXR-8 Video Baby Monitors https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07JZL36C5/r...
mzb -
I just replaced mine with this:
Infant Optics DXR-8 Rechargeable... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EDQ6LZ0?ref=...
Fits perfectly. I had to cut the wires and splice them together onto the new battery. I dont have a soldering iron and so just decided to do the splice method.
I basically did the exact procedure that soakman707 did above except I didn’t have to cut the plastic from the earpiece because the battery I bought fit perfectly.
Would anyone know if this size would fit? 1.9 x 1.5 x 0.4 inches. I'm willing to make modifications to where the battery housing is. It's the 1800 mAh version of the Infant Optics DXR-8 Rechargeable battery from Amazon, which from what I hear fits perfectly. Just trying to find out from someone who has done the swap if it might be possible. Having that much battery life wouldn't be too bad.
IGNORE EVERY SINGLE COMMENT PRIOR TO THIS ONE!!! (You may use the original pictures as a reference) AND NO SOLDERING WILL BE REQUIRED.
The battery for Elite 800 and X is in the left ear cup. Use extreme care while handling the headset in a disassembled state due to very fine and very short wiring. You will not be able to move the speaker plate or circuit board more than 1/2 inch away, so avoid using any force during disassembly. If something is not coming out easily as or as described, you have missed something! I highly recommend taking several photos of the headset and battery at each stage of the process. It is simply a good practice. You have a phone. You have been warned.
Use this battery. It fits. It’s cheap. It requires the least modification. It requires no soldering. It has an overload protection circuit. It gives better performance than the original. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CJ...
You will need a #3 Phillips screwdriver, an exacto knife or tiny flat screwdriver (I mean TINY) to use as a pry tool, approx 1” of double sided tape, and it might be a good idea to have some super glue on hand. A magnifying glass or machinist’s magnifying visor WILL be handy.
Work on a flat table large enough to where dropping accidentally the the headset on the floor will not be a problem. There will be heavy sharp-edged parts dangling from utterly miniscule wiring. A drop while disassembled will almost certainly destroy the headset!
1. Remove the ear cup foam with a gentle twist and pull off.
2. Remove the 4 screws holding the speaker plate.
3. Carefully lift the speaker plate taking from the top right flipping it out toward the lower left.
4. Unplug the battery as shown in the OP.
5. Remove the 4 screws holding the circuit board. Notice that the top and bottom screws have a nearby location pin coming up through small holes in the circuit board. When you put the circuit board back in later, make sure those pins line up properly.
6. Carefully lift the circuit board from the top right flipping it out toward the lower left.
7. You can now see the battery. It is glued down with double stick tape. Carefully pry it up starting at the wired end. You can potentially reuse the tape. Take a picture of the wire lead and plug, paying special attention to the plug/pin orientation to the plug socket. DO NOT THROW THE OLD BATTERY AWAY! You need the plastic plug on the end of the wires.
8. Using extreme care, and advisably magnification, and a helper, gently pry up the tabs on the plug with the x-acto knife, one at a time while your helper pulls the wire out of the plug. Prying more than 1/32” will probably break the tab off the plug. Do this for all three wires.
9. The replacement battery is wired to an incompatible plug, AND the wires are in an incorrect orientation. Remove this plug using the same technique you just employed on the old battery.
10. Attach the old plug to the new battery using the photos from the OP or your own photos as reference. The catch on the wire leads goes toward the tab side of the plug. The yellow wire corresponds to the blue wire of the old battery. The wire order is YELLOW BLACK RED as in the picture in step 3 of the OP. You may use a drop of super glue if you damaged/weakened the plug clips. Hold them in place with the x-acto knife until dry.
11. The new battery will be positioned in the ear cup with the wire lead on the left side. Tape the bottom side of the battery. If you saved it, use the foam tape from the old battery on the circuit board/top side. The battery should be placed on the flat surface at the bottom of the ear cup. It will barely squeeze in this space. Make sure it does not interfere with the volume button actuator.
12. Replace the circuit board making sure the battery wire comes out over the top side of it and the reference pins are coming through the holes near the top and bottom screw holes. Test the volume up , volume down, bluetooth, and power buttons for correct feel/function before replacing the screws.
13. Plug in the battery (the headphone should power on).
14. Replace the circuit board screws (they are the smaller ones).
15. Replace the speaker plate and screws.
16. Replace the ear cup pad.
17. Frag!
Wow! This was extremely easy. Saved an excellent pair of headphones. I am very thankful for this DIY tutorial. Very easy project and definately cost effective.
-Twist and remove ear cup
-Unscrew and lift the plate (be gentle with the wires conected)
-Unscrew and lift the chip (again be gentle with the wires)
-Unplug and remove battery (it’s held on with some 3m tape)
-Plug in and set the new battery (you’ll need some 3m tape to attach it to the wall)
-Reverse step 3-1 and you’re done! 5 min tops (the guide this other guy gives is waaaaay off in left field)
—Hope this helps!!! ^-^
From the pictures it looks like there is room in the right ear cup. A 3 wire ran through the headband arch to the other side and spliced into the wires going to the battery on the left would put them in parallel. They would take longer to charge fully but you'd have double the use time.
Am I wrong?
I was thinking the same thing. Glad someone else noticed that as well. I’m assuming that’s how batteries work. I just don’t want to fry anything.
I am from the UK and was finding it hard to find a nice battery as most the links where to US sites.
I used a Green Cell F650010252 F709070710 for TomTom NVT2B225 One Europe V2 (Li-Ion cells 1100mAh 3.7V) but any TomTom One IQ, V2, V3, V4, XL & XL-S GPS Devices batteries will fit
link to the battery I used: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07M...
Things i had to do was
Cut the cable channels to make the battery fit. I used a carpet knife and some sandpaper (a pair of pliers will also work).
The connection on the battery is the wrong size but the pins inside the connector are the correct size. I depinned both batteries and repinned the new battery to the old battery connection. This saved me from soldering or splicing wires.
I completed this repair this past Sunday, 1 week ago.
The battery can be purchased from amazon.
The circuitry was extremely delicate.
I wanted to avoid cutting, splicing, and soldering the wiring so I followed the above directions by depinning and swapping the terminals to the original connector. Be careful with the original connector during the procedure.
For the sake of safety avoid allowing the positive and negative terminals to touch during the transplant.
The new battery lasts practically forever but does take a while to recharge when discharged.
My 800x head set is at least a few years old. I didn't know the original battery had expanded in size until I took it apart. It would discharge after 37 minutes and would only take 22 minutes to recharge.
I'm suspecting I may have caused my battery issues because I used a fast charge power bank on it and left it plugged in overnight. The head set won't turn off when it is plugged in so it sat overnight powered on and charging.
My TB 800x headset was struggling to get more than 2 hours of use on old battery so I just completed this repair without any soldering. I used this battery with 500ma boost:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07K1J433J/ref=...
I spliced the wires using electrical tape for the replacement battery to the old white plug. [black-black, red-red, yellow-blue]. I used a single piece of double sided tape to keep the battery secure in it’s spot. It took a few tries screwing things back in to get the buttons aligned properly. I think taking the plate off may have helped but can’t be certain.
Anyhow, it is paired and working perfectly now. Bluetooth has also been tested. Solder probably is smarter but I don’t have tin handy. I will post back if I have any problems with spliced wires and need to solder. There’s not movement inside, even when shaking, so I’m hoping all is good.
Here is a replacement P083040 battery for the Elite 800 headset that is still available:
P083040 battery for the Elite 800 headset
It comes with the necessary screwdriver and it has a 1 year replacement warranty too!
What is this guy doing?
There is no need for soldering if you just buy the right battery from the start.
I bought the battery below, opened totalt of 8 screws, disconnected the the old battery cable, pulled out the old battery, in with the new battery, screws back and done.
Elite 800p
This should be done on the left cushion as that’s wear the battery is.
Deric Smith - Yanıt