Giriş
The metallic bottom shield protects the logic board from electromagnetic interference.
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Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Lift the battery out of the computer.
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Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
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Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
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Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.
If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.
The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.
However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).
And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.
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Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.
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Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!
I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.
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There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.
Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!
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There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
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Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.
Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...
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Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
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Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.
on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.
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Lift the bottom shield off.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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