Bu kılavuzda güncel değişiklikler var. En son onaylanmamış sürüme geçin.
Giriş
You can install hard drives up to 9.5mm thick.
Neye ihtiyacın var
-
-
Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
-
Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.
-
-
-
Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.
-
-
-
Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.
Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.
-
-
-
Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.
very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!
-
-
-
Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
I agree with tangawk: with a flathead screwdriver it was a lot easier. One have just to go deeper enough under the tab to be effective. Just be careful: the tab could jump far.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
-
-
-
Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.
If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.
The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.
However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).
And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.
-
-
-
-
Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.
I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!
I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.
-
-
-
Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.
Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!
-
-
-
There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
-
-
-
Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.
Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...
-
-
-
Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.
on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.
-
-
-
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board.
-
-
-
Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
I found that I could leave the cable attached if I was just careful with where I placed it when I turned the computer over.
-
-
-
Remove the two Phillips screws from the battery compartment.
-
-
-
Turn over the computer and open it.
-
Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.
Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.
Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.
-
-
-
Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
-
Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.
-
One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.
-
One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.
-
Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle
My journey of replacing the hard drive stops at step 29. The screw marked with the yellow circle ("One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner") is very tight. The torque I applied wore out the screw head and it becomes the death sentence announcement of the iBook. Sad.
I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!
The screw is put back when the iBook is assembled.
-
-
-
Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.
When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!
You can see photos of my upgrade process here if you are interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/judahs/sets...
-
-
-
Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.
Neither of these pesky & fragile connectors need to be removed…leave then connected! All you need to do, is to unscrew both speakers, carefully peel their wires off the housing, and—finally—make one cut with scissors or a sharp craft-knife through the upper left aluminum shield, closest to the plug…the board will slip around the second plug without any modification…Voila! No chance of harming the plugs, and the cut is very short & may be covered with tape. I have done this on two( 2 ) of these G4’s, a 12” and a 14”, and it works like a Charm…just be careful with the speaker wires, and you’ll never have to worry about ruining a G4 again…True Story!
-
-
-
Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&
chickenbrothel kullanıcısından alıntı:
just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&
It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.
First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.
You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.
Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.
If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.
jackshim kullanıcısından alıntı:
Tweezers were also helpful here.
I used forceps. Quick and easy.
QEII Student IT kullanıcısından alıntı:
You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.
Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.
-
-
-
Remove the following 15 screws:
-
Fourteen 3 mm Phillips.
-
One 5.5 mm Phillips in the upper left corner.
This is very confusing. Next time I'm going to mark the spots where the little screws go with red sharpie.
screws to my left in front of pc
It says mind the magnet position so how do I put the magnet do I just put it like the image has it??!??!?
-
-
-
Lift the metal restraining bracket from the hard drive and place it aside.
While this guide says you can only use low profile 9.5mm tall drives, you can absolutely use full-height drives in this iBook.
To use the full-height drive, do not replace this metal bracket with the padding. This piece is to provide stabilization/padding for the low-profile drives Apple uses in this iBook.
With a full-height drive, the polycarbonate case and RF shielding material rests against the drive with no space, keeping it still.
Just installed my full-height drive by omitting this piece, and the case fits together perfectly and iBook is happily up and running.
-
-
-
Remove the two Phillips screws securing the hard drive to the metal framework.
mine has 2 screws on each side so four in total the others two are on the bottom near the edge.
screw sizes please, as some are longer than others.
-
-
-
Remove the two black T8 Torx screws from either side of the hard drive (four screws total).
jackshim kullanıcısından alıntı:
I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver so I used a pair of pliers to undo and the eventually to retighten the screws.
this worked for me too! thx
Followed this guide yesterday and today installed the OS. Worked brilliantly. I numbered pots by step number for the screws removed, this helped loads. Hardest part of the job was removing the plastic case, it sure does not want to come free of the fixing tags. Brilliant guide and great to make new life from a dead ibook.
-
-
-
Use the transparent orange loop to disconnect the large orange ribbon cable from the hard drive.
so i got my new hard drive in but when i used the disc to start and try to install operating system, it stalls on the window asking where to install. there is no hard drive icon.
Same here.
Even tore it apart again to double check my connections.
Running the Apple Hardware Test Disc (v. 2.0.2) that came with the machine hangs up during the memory test (have run both the quick and extended tests).
I <know> I saw the answer to this apparently common problem but can't find it.
You need to run Disk Utilty to format the drive first from the Menu on the OS Disc.
tscott58 -
No hard drive icon usually means you forgot to reconnect the hard drive cable connector back to the main board, or if you didn't disconnect it in the first place, then in wiggling with the hard drive, you popped the other end of the connector off...that's what I did :) .
I opened up the machine again and double checked: ll my connections are good.
There is still no icon.
I like to clone the old hard drive contents to the new one (in a FireWire or USB enclosure) with SuperDuper before I tear the computer apart then boot off of it to make sure I won't have any problems.
For those of you having issues with the computer not recognizing the new hard drive as bootable, make sure it's partitioned correctly when you erase it with Disk Utility. GUID Partition Table to start up an Intel-based Mac or Apple Partition Map to start up a PowerPC-based Mac like the iBook G4.
i succesfully followed this guide and installed a new hard drive. But there is a problem with the close lid switch that put the mac in and out of sleep when opening and closing the lid. When closing the lid the screen is still on. if i manually put the computer into sleep. It doesnt respond to opening of the lid either.
Any ideas what connectors or cables to check?
rockmeisster kullanıcısından alıntı:
i succesfully followed this guide and installed a new hard drive. But there is a problem with the close lid switch that put the mac in and out of sleep when opening and closing the lid. When closing the lid the screen is still on. if i manually put the computer into sleep. It doesnt respond to opening of the lid either.
Any ideas what connectors or cables to check?
i got the same problem. i did notice a small rectangular magnet (with glue on one side) came loose inside the case --not the round one on top of one screw close to the screen. perhaps, this has something to do with it?... please post if you find out the solution(s).
Yes...you need to replace the sleep magnet. It sits under the 'palm rest' top right corner.
Banu -
vivienneg kullanıcısından alıntı:
i got the same problem. i did notice a small rectangular magnet (with glue on one side) came loose inside the case --not the round one on top of one screw close to the screen. perhaps, this has something to do with it?... please post if you find out the solution(s).
oh, nevermind. i did find the answer at the other place;
Lid open/close standby doesnt work after HD replace
thankx, vG
vivienneg kullanıcısından alıntı:
i got the same problem. i did notice a small rectangular magnet (with glue on one side) came loose inside the case --not the round one on top of one screw close to the screen. perhaps, this has something to do with it?... please post if you find out the solution(s).
Yes. The rectangular magnet, like in the iBook G3s is supposed to sit underneath the palm rest casing piece. I just bought a broken one only to find that it is missing this piece, and therefore having the same issue. It should be noted to make sure that the piece goes back in when you take it apart as it is with the iBook G3 Fixit Guide. I was surprised to see that this one did not note that problem.
Works like a charm thanks ifixit
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
İptal et: Bu kılavuzu tamamlamadım.
206 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.
Ekli Belgeler
8 Yorum
Wow! I just needed to remove the functioning hard drive from a 2003 iBook (not sure which model). We hadn't used it in a few years because the screen was shot and I suspect the motherboard was on its way out. These instructions were close enough for this slightly different model. What a pain and I am so glad I didn't need to put the thing back together! Thanks a bunch, iFixIt, because I don't think I could have figured it out without this guide.
Thanks for the guide. I had to use this a few years back to replace a hard drive. It was a challenge, took a couple hours, but go slow and steady and be patien. The guide was perfect. I would suggest printing the screw guide, sticking double sided tape over the screw diagrams, and placing your screws on there as you disassemble. This make reassembly a ton easier. Trickiest part for me was actually removing the lower case. Don't forget step 16 and go slowly.
Wow! Just followed this guide to remove a drive from an old machine before disposing of it. Glad I don't have to put it back together again and hope it still works! It should not be this difficult to take a HD out!! Thanks for the guide, would have been almost impossible without it :)
Very well explained and illustrated . Thank you.
very well written and illustrated. Thank you.
I bought an old iBook G4 for a few coins because I was curious. This is my first Mac experience. If it wasn’t here on my desk, I would not believe it. On an ordinary notebook you need 3 screws for a drive replacement (max), this has 42 steps and one of the steps alone has 15 screws. Guess what is wrong with the iBook I got? The hard drive and the optical drive :) No problem, I have spare hard drives… This walkthrough is a must have for me.
This guide was absolutely perfect! Got an SSD loaded into it and breathed new life into the old iBook G4. Thank you so much