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iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement

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  1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Install the service wedge: adım 1, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    iMac Intel 27" Cardboard Service Wedge
    $4.99
    Satın Al

    What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.

    ebay - Yanıt

    I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.

    I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…

    …apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.

    Erich Hentschel - Yanıt

  2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Insert an opening tool: adım 2, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Insert an opening tool: adım 2, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Insert an opening tool: adım 2, 3 resimden 3.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert it no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage if you insert the tool too far.

    Should you run a hair dryer along the edges first?

    Al Val - Yanıt

  3. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Slice through the display adhesive: adım 3, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Slice through the display adhesive: adım 3, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Slice through the display adhesive: adım 3, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

  4. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Cut through the remaining adhesive: adım 4, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Cut through the remaining adhesive: adım 4, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Cut through the remaining adhesive: adım 4, 3 resimden 3.
    • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

  5. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 5, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 5, 2 resimden 2.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  6. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 6, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 6, 2 resimden 2.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

  7. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 7, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 7, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 7, 3 resimden 3.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  8. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  9. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 9, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 9, 2 resimden 2.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

  10. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Separate the display: adım 10, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Separate the display: adım 10, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Separate the display: adım 10, 3 resimden 3.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    Satın Al
    • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

  11. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 11, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 11, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

    • Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

  12. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 3.
    • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

    • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

  13. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 13, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 13, 2 resimden 2.
    • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

  14. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 3.
    • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

  15. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 15, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 15, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  16. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 16, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 16, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 16, 3 resimden 3.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  17. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 17, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 17, 2 resimden 2.
    • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

  18. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 3.
    • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  19. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Disconnect the display cables: adım 19, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Disconnect the display cables: adım 19, 2 resimden 2.
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.

    Ernest Bumblebee - Yanıt

    These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.

    Peter Akey - Yanıt

    The instruction for this step state this but I was still not expecting two cables. Finally figured out there is a Display Power and a separate Display Data cable.

    wsrb - Yanıt

  20. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 3.
    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

  21. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Lift the display: adım 21, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Lift the display: adım 21, 2 resimden 2.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.

    Henry Rose - Yanıt

    It's possible to skip this step and go to step 24, leaving the display attached. You'll want to open the display just enough to replace the drive, with the machine upright and supported so the display doesn't swivel (I fold up a small pillow and wedge it in there). This way you don't have to worry about damaging the display when removing it, or aligning it when replacing it (which can be difficult to do solo as it's big and heavy).

    Using a T8 with a short handle is helpful here, and make sure it's well magnetized so you don't drop the screws for the hard drive (just leave the other ones in the speakers).

    maccentric - Yanıt

  22. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the remaining adhesive: adım 22, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the remaining adhesive: adım 22, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the remaining adhesive: adım 22, 3 resimden 3.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

    • Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

    • If either adhesive strip breaks before it's removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

  23. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the display: adım 23, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the display: adım 23, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the display: adım 23, 3 resimden 3.
    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

  24. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the support bracket: adım 24, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the support bracket: adım 24, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 3.2 mm screws securing the support bracket.

    • You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

    These are new steps from when I did this on my late 2015 retina iMac so I believe step 25 and 26 are optional (you can cope without doing it).

    Amuseme - Yanıt

    I did not find it necessary to remove these screws and this bar

    James Orwin - Yanıt

    I lost these 8 during the reassemble. The manual tells I need eight 3.2mm screws.

    Can anyone help to clarify what screws I need. I don't really understand this size. Is this M2x3mm?

    Daniel - Yanıt

  25. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 25, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. "chin strap") from the iMac enclosure.

    No comments on this ?

    It's quite possibly the most difficult part to put back in the entire process

    The screws are tiny and the there is no easy way to line up the holes on the bracket with the screws

    Having got this far - it wasn't even all that necessary to remove this part in the first place

    Severe pain in the neck

    Eoin - Yanıt

    After an hour of painstaking mess - I managed to get 7 out of the 9 back in

    By that time I could care less about the remaining 2

    Eoin - Yanıt

    With the right tools and technique, the bracket can easily be replaced in under a couple of minutes.

    Use a screwdriver with a magnetized tip which frees up one hand and place a screw on the tip first.

    Then line up the screw hole on just one end of the bracket and using a pair of tweezers from the side, hold the bracket in place while you put in the screw.

    Next, do the same on the other end of the bracket. After that, all of the screws in the middle are quick to replace. I didn't really have to touch the bracket again after the end screws were in place.

    Hope that helps someone else since removing this bracket does make later steps a bit easier.

    Max Z - Yanıt

    I used Max Z tweezers technique but screwed one screw in at the end and then worked my way to the other end.

    Stephen B - Yanıt

  26. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the left speaker: adım 26, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove two 10 mm T10 screws.

    I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

    Cool_Breeze - Yanıt

    While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

    James Orwin - Yanıt

    I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

    Dan Smith - Yanıt

  27. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 27, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 27, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 27, 3 resimden 3.
    • Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

    on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

    tarex7 - Yanıt

  28. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 3.
    • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Yanıt

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Yanıt

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Yanıt

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Yanıt

    you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - Yanıt

  29. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 29, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 29, 2 resimden 2.
    • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Yanıt

  30. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 3.
    • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Yanıt

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Yanıt

  31. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 3.
    • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Yanıt

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - Yanıt

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - Yanıt

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - Yanıt

  32. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the hard drive: adım 32, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the hard drive: adım 32, 2 resimden 2.
    • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

  33. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 33, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove two 7.3 mm T8 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

  34. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 3.
    • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

    • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

    • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

  35. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 35, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 35, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

  36. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the power supply: adım 36, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the power supply: adım 36, 2 resimden 2.
    • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - Yanıt

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - Yanıt

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - Yanıt

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - Yanıt

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - Yanıt

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - Yanıt

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - Yanıt

    If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

    Davo Montiel - Yanıt

    Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

    Dan Smith - Yanıt

    If you have a insulated long nose pliers along with a splugger and can get underneath the cable WITH the long nose pliers on the RIGHT side of the cable, towards the logic board, with the splugger on the LEFT Side of the cable doing the same, you can get the leverage to GENTLY pull this cable out very easily.

    George Martinez - Yanıt

  37. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 37, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

    • Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

    • Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

  38. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 3.
    • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

    • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Yanıt

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Yanıt

  39. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 2.
    • Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    • If the cable is too difficult to disconnect, you can remove the power supply board and motherboard together.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - Yanıt

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - Yanıt

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - Yanıt

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - Yanıt

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - Yanıt

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - Yanıt

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - Yanıt

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - Yanıt

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - Yanıt

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board Replacement step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Yanıt

    I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

    Mike Rehbein - Yanıt

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Yanıt

    I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

    Dan Smith -

    The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

    Andrew Phillips - Yanıt

  40. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 3.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

    • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - Yanıt

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - Yanıt

    Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

    Andrew Phillips - Yanıt

  41. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the right speaker: adım 41, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove two 9.8 mm T8 screws.

    These are T10's, not T8's

    loren - Yanıt

    I had one shorter one screw, and one screw shorter than the other two equal size speaker screws, but longer than the stubby screw. :) And I can confirm that these are T10s.

    Patrick Vickers - Yanıt

  42. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

  43. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

  44. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 3.
    • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  45. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the fan: adım 45, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the fan: adım 45, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the fan: adım 45, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  46. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 46, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 46, 2 resimden 2.
    • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

    • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct—you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

  47. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 47, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

  48. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 48, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 48, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the fan from the iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - Yanıt

    On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

    ebay - Yanıt

    I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

    S. Baxter - Yanıt

  49. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Remove the logic board: adım 49, 1 resimden 1.
    • Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 4 mm screws securing the AirPort/Bluetooth antenna cables.

    Rather than unscrew the antenna cables, I usually unscrew the screws on the board and slide out the whole AirPort/Bluetooth module, which means I need not keep track of which antenna cable goes where.

    johann beda - Yanıt

    Fully agree with comment of johann! I did it that way and was glad to not having to deal with the microscopic IPEX "coax" antenna connectors and order of them.

    I'd like to add that after removing the 2 screws, the wifi/bt module is still holding into these 2 holes with 2 metal pieces.

    Before pulling the module out of its socket, one has to slightly lift it away from the mainboard (maybe 1mm, so the metal pieces leave the holes).

    Thomas Waldmann -

    Confirmed. 2 T5 screws, and pull the board straight up out of its socket behind he motherboard. Leave all cables attached.

    ebay - Yanıt

    Fully agree. It is not only handy for order of cables but especially eliminates risk of damaging the quite delicate IPEX connectors on the broadcomm wifi/bluetooth board when removing and reconnecting later. This happened to me. It is a huge hassle to replace / repair.

    This should be main option!! Wish I read this comment first.

    Starting Genius - Yanıt

    Does anyone know if this board can be upgraded to Bluetooth 5

    Chris - Yanıt

  50. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 50, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 50, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 50, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

    • Leftmost

    • Top

    • Upper right

    • Lower right

    TIP: Tape all 4 cables first to keep them in the correct position when re-assembling.

    Les Lesaca - Yanıt

  51. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 3.
    • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

    • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

  52. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 52, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 52, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 52, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently push the cable out of the way.

  53. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 53, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 53, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 53, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use tweezers to gently pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    Make a 10x macro photo of that connection with a good camera (showing how far the ribbon cable is inserted into the connector) BEFORE opening/pulling and later AFTER reinserting/closing it. Then carefully compare the photos concerning how far the cable is inserted.

    The only mistake I made while fixing my iMac was not to fully reinsert that ribbon cable and thus the mic did not work at first.

    Thomas Waldmann - Yanıt

  54. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 54, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 54, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board:

    • Two 23.7 mm T8 screws

    • One 20.1 mm T25 spacer screw

    • One 17.6 mm T8 screw

    • One 7.2 mm T8 screw

    • Three 7.1 mm T8 screws

    • One captive T8 screw

    • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. If you aren't using an iFixit driver, you may need an extension or a screwdriver with a longer shaft.

    A 3.0 Hex driver worked for the T25 spacer screw.

    johann beda - Yanıt

    1/8” hex worked, too

    ebay - Yanıt

    For the T25 I used a regular chisel tip screw driver that was exactly the width between two opposite sides of the Torx star

    The standoff is only screwed in by two or so turns and came out very easily for me

    So you shouldn't have to force it and damage threads

    Eoin - Yanıt

  55. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 55, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 55, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 55, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pull the hard drive SATA cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

    • Don't attempt to completely remove the cable—it can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

    When reassembling one should not "pull it through the right bracket", but rather "pull it through between the right bracket and the case".

    Thomas Waldmann - Yanıt

  56. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 56, 1 resimden 1.
    • Use a T8 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5.6 mm screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

    For the life of me I jut could not get these two screws to go back in neatly

    I had the same issue on both a 2017 and 2019 iMac 5K

    After some thinking I realised the don't do much anyways so I left them out

    No harm was done to either machine

    Eoin - Yanıt

  57. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 57, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 57, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 57, 3 resimden 3.
    • When removing and installing the logic board, take care not to damage the delicate microphone ribbon cable at the bottom left of the board.

    • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

    • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag it on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

  58. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 58, 2 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 58, 2 resimden 2.
    • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

    • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

    Insbesondere die USB3.1 Port sollten mit einem Stecker belegt werden! Ich habe nur die USB3.0 (A?) Ports mit Steckern belegt und konnte nach dem Zusammenbau alle Port benutzen, aber nicht die USB3.1 (C) Ports. Am besten überall einen Stecker rein.

    Boris Boesler - Yanıt

    Boris is correct. I reassembled mine usig the USB3.1 ports for alignment and found that my USB-C plugs would not go in. Be sure to use USB-C ports for alignment!!!

    Please update the instructions with this information.

    Erik - Yanıt

    Confirmed. Used the rightmost USB-C and the leftmost USB-A connector and it aligned perfectly.

    Thomas Waldmann - Yanıt

  59. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, SATA Cable: adım 59, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, SATA Cable: adım 59, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, SATA Cable: adım 59, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it.

    • Unplug the SATA data cable connector by depressing its locking tab and pulling straight up on the connector.

    • Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - Yanıt

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - Yanıt

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

    Tom - Yanıt

    I'm waiting on the battery now! I have a CR2032 in the house, but I looked them up, and they're too different to make me comfortable using one. And I accidentally ordered the BR3032, AAAGH. Sigh. Stupid Amazon put them side by side, and I clicked on the wrong one. :) Must've been Amazon's fault. :) But for sure, I was looking at my computer in pieces, and I looked at that battery, and I thought, wait, when was this thing built? 2017? Um. Might be time for a change.

    Patrick Vickers -

    Tom, great tip on the battery. I put a new one in my 3½ year old iMac.

    Dave Hoppenrath - Yanıt

    Could have used a warning that this cable is not present in models that shipped with a SSD. I was replacing my blade SSD and adding a new SSD at the same time, only to find that I was missing this cable while my iMac was in pieces. Had to reassemble it without adding the SATA SSD, major hassle.

    Matt Stamm - Yanıt

    This is a bit of a grey space.

    Clearly you don’t need the cable if you are replacing the HDD or switching it out of a SSD. Its only when you are enhancing your system by adding a drive which you didn’t have before.

    Dan -

    Hello congratulations on your ssd blade upgrade. Have you used the owc blade or a samsung + adaptor? Regarding the cable, do you know if we can buy the cable and plug it into the logic bard so to add another ssd in the aluminum frame ? thanks a lot have a niceday

    Patrick -

    @patrick7508 - I encourage you to stick with a pin-compatible drive not use a M.2 adapter as they are not reliable and some drives are not compatible. Stick with a real Apple drive or OWC. Just think of the work you needed to do just to get to the drive.

    Dan -

  60. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement, Blade SSD: adım 60, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the single 5.3 mm T8 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - Yanıt

    Did you find out any details about the screw in the end?

    djones -

    I am also searching for the right screw. There wasn’t one there before as there was no M.2 SSD there before (late 2015 iMac with HDD configuration). It’s definitely smaller than the T8 Torx’s I have been taking out so far.

    Boris -

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Yanıt

    I have bought an iMac 2015 with 3TB Fusion drive, from which the SSD blade was out of order.
    A serviceman had split the Fusion drive and the iMac ran on HDD only. Awfully slow...
    On the top of it the boot time was very long since the bootloader waited 3 minutes for the defective SSD to show up.
    Since I had an Apple 121GB blade from an upgrade on a Macbook Air I replaced the SSD.
    Now my iMac boots directly from the 121GB blade (AFPS), lightning fast. The 3TB HDD is HFS+ and holds my user files and Time Machine.

    Laszlo Lebrun - Yanıt

  61. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 61, 3 resimden 1. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 61, 3 resimden 2. iMac 27" 2017 Blade SSD Replacement: adım 61, 3 resimden 3.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD above about 15˚.

    • Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - Yanıt

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Not get confused! Apple used different vendors of their SSD’s both SanDisk & Samsung supplied SSD’s in this series.

    Dan -

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - Yanıt

    For the 2012 iMac 27”, I can confirm the Blade SSD is an 8+18 pin SSDD and I believe this is a SATA drive, NOT a PCIe (NVMe) drive. I took my 2012 apart to try to add an NVMe drive with 2013 macbook adapter, and it does not fit. I didn’t have an adapter that worked so I just replaced the 3.5” HDD with a 2TB SATA 2.5” SSD and left the blade slot empty.

    The SSD drives available from OWC have speeds consistent with SATA drives, so I think the benefit of replacing or filling the blade slot are pretty minimal unless you’re really trying to maximize your available storage space, in which case it’s likely better to invest in an external or network attached solution.

    TL;DR 2012 iMac is an 8+18 pin setup that is likely SATA, not PCI-E so just replace the HDD with a big SATA drive.

    Jakegub - Yanıt

    Here’s a good source of info The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs And BeetsTech is a good source for the SSD’s

    Dan - Yanıt

    iMac 27” 2019!

    I did it ;-) and ist works fine … but I had no microfon after reinstall. I had put the adhesive strips over the mic holes.

    So I need to open again with a new pair of adhesive strips ;-)

    I Have installed a Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO 1TB with the “long” sintech adapter and a Sandisk Ultra SSD 2TB (SATA).

    Matthias - Yanıt

    I am about to do this to my 27” late 2015. Haven’t decided on which Blade SSD to use yet. But I have bought af Crucial MX500 2 TB SSD SATA.

    I have read a lot of problems with the Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO.

    Also read a lot about needing a SATA cable from OWC (OWCDIDIMacHDD12) In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor for 27-Inch iMac, to ensure the fann does not spin uncontrollably.

    Have you had any problems with your setup with the Samsung SSD, and did you use the OWC cable ?

    Lars -

    I also did it with the same adapter, ordered for a few bucks from china.

    I’m usign the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, they have updated the firmware and it works out of the box.

    The firmware for older models can be updated directly on the mac with the updater from Samsung (can be installed on a USB stick and used to start the mac with it)

    The standard 970 EVO does not have had the firmware issues, just the Plus had in the past.

    For the blade SSD no OWC cable is required, that is only if a SATA-HDD is replaced by a SATA-SSD, thats a completely different thing.

    maccy -

    Is there supposed to be a heatsink attached to the replacement drive? I don't recall receiving one in the OWC package and I am seeing temps hitting 190 F (almost 88 C) under heavy load.

    Maurice Volaski - Yanıt

    No heat sink on the blade SSD, you could add one but it won’t really change what you are facing here.

    It does sound like your SSD maybe to small (and/or your system needs more RAM) given what you are doing.

    Keep in mind boot drive (SSD here) is used for virtual RAM, caching and depending on the app scratch space. You want to leave at least 1/4 of the drive empty for best performance. 256 GB or smaller drives will need 1/3 reserved.

    Dan -

    How to boot the system after replacing the ssd? Where is the recovery partition? I have followed all the steps but the screen is black and not even the question mark is displayed.

    LETRA - Yanıt

    Then you have an issue with your installation as you should be treated with a flashing question mark. Check your displays connections and maybe see if an external display works. Did you use the proper tools and technique within the guide to lift the display off? Many people have damaged the display in the process if they don’t follow the guide to the letter.

    Dan -

    Installed a 2019 SSD in my late 2015 iMac retina, purchased from fast_macs on eBay AOK with nearly 1900MB/s write 1800MB/s read (ish). Also installed Apple 2TB drive too whilst I was doing it.

    Amuseme - Yanıt

    The 2017 and 2019 SSDs should be the same (or very similar). Both are SSPOLARIS and the same generation. I’m in the middle of doing the same on mine (mid 2017), going from a 2TB Fusion to a straight 1TB blade.

    I purchased this one, based on the excellent feedback:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144429279418...

    orrelljet -

    If I install a new 2TB SSD to replace my HDD (2019 imac 27), do I have to install a new logic board SSD? I’d rather not have a fusion config any longer (S/W seems buggy - hence my fusion drive problems). I’d much rather have just the new 2TP SSD in place of the old HDD, if possible?

    Chuck Lott - Yanıt

    Replacing your SATA HDD for a SSD makes a lot of sense! Any size will work.

    You should pull the blade SSD which was mated to the HDD to create the Fusion Drive pair.

    Dan -

    Thanks Dan - blade SSD to be discarded!

    Chuck Lott - Yanıt

    Hola. Quería saber que iMacs de 27” pulgadas llevan ese tipo de conector M2. Gracias

    Jorge Yerbito - Yanıt

    @chucklott I'm in the same situation as you were. I have a new 2.5" SSD in-hand and would like to just use that, and pull the existing blade SSD out. I think I have to purchase a SATA cable though, because the iMac doesn't appear to come with one. Is that what you did too? Any other issues that you encountered with your fix?

    kevinthoeng - Yanıt

    Depending on what your system was configured with for drives you may have the needed cables.

    The low end config came with a SATA HDD as such you will have the needed SATA cables

    If you bought the Mid tier config then you have a Fusion Drive which is really two physical drives the SATA HDD as well as a small blade SSD which is used as a cache drive (not visible from within the OS or Disk Utility as a mountable volume) again you will have the SATA cables. But you will need to remove the blade SSD as it gets in the way.

    The last config is the high end which is where a much larger blade SSD is installed this is the only config that will require a SATA cable.

    These setups are independent of the CPU/GPU the system also offered.

    Dan -

Sonuç

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Üyelik tarihi: 04/11/15

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9 Yorum

is there any way to replace the I.O without swapping the motherboard?

Crystal Haugh - Yanıt

From cutting through the adhesive to the smoke test this was just under a four hour job for me. One adhesive strip left a complete layer of glue on one side of the screen, and it took me the better part of an hour, about half my supply of wipes, and a plastic razor blade just to clean that one edge up. I’d break the time down as: removing, cleaning, or reapplying adhesives, 2 hours; non-adhesive disassembly, 50 minutes; reassembly, 40 minutes; “oh crap, where’s that tool?” 15 minutes; and about 10 minutes for cleanup, including vacuuming out the fan, heat sink, and vents.

Ed Poe - Yanıt

Hi there, I need your professional help. I followed all instructions to change my iMac 2017 27" 5K fusion drive with a Samsung EVO 970 PLUS 2TB (with upgraded firmware) for macOS bootable drive and extra EVO 860 SSD 4TB data drive. Then updated to Monterey. My first test was 1200w 2900r, which was different from the youtube video which was roughly 3Krw. Why was that? Then after a few days of work, the mac froze during youtube watch and again during excel spreadsheet, and restarted with a "?" in a folder. I made an online hardware check all OK, then performed first aid, and again all OK. Then rebooted to the same "?" screen. And then rebooted again and now it works. So far! I see in the system prefs - Link Width x1. I made the speed test again and the reading now is roughly 700rw. Screenshots and sys error report bellow. What have I done wrong? And what to do to fix it all? Thanks!

Peter Lane - Yanıt

Did anyone already thought or experienced to just cut out a square at the back of the frame? its not elegant but my imacs back just faces the wall :) for thermal reasons i can imagine just to stick it back.

dave777 - Yanıt

It's a shame Apple couldn't manage to put this on the front of the logic board--such a pain (by design).

maccentric -

Hi, I'm about to change my SSD as well. But I'm unsure because of the slot. In the pictures the slot is almost in the center. But on the Samsung 970 EVOPlus, the slot is almost on one side. Does anyone therefore know it this product will work?

https://www.digitec.ch/de/s1/product/sam...


I have the iMac 2017 27" 5K model with a fusion drive.

Simon Boonstra - Yanıt

Think that a screw part uninstall was missing, it will hold the motherboard in, until you remove it. Located at the bottom of the hard drive bracket, Requires a T20 to remove it. Then the motherboard come out easily as the instructions state. I'd post a photo, but can't on this comment section. My Mod for a customer, is to remove the "fusion", replace that PCIe "blade" with a 2TB from OWC. Reformat the internal 1TB hard drive to be used as extra storage or backup. The screw could have been referred to as : One 20.1 mm T25 spacer screw, mine was a T20. Perhaps there are some differences in models.

Carl Schultz - Yanıt

SSD type:

Looked at other options (OWC, Samsung/WD M.2 + sintech adaptor), then went with a used original Apple "Polaris" SSD:

- Apple seems to install firmware when upgrading macOS and there have been reports about it stumbling over 3rd party SSDs.

- M.2 adaptors seem to have insulation issues, requiring adding capton tape to avoid short circuiting with the mainboard connector shield.

- Samsung M.2 SSD controllers seem to have compatibility issues with macOS. There were recommendations to rather go with WD SSDs.

- A lot of currently (2024) available WD M.2 SSDs are not listed as compatible with the sintech adaptor. The ones listed as compatible are not available any more.

Original Apple SSD was expensive (per GB, but ok at 40 EUR for 512GB used), but it seemed like the only way to avoid all issues.

First tried an external SSD (with a realtek USB-C-PCIe bridge) and install macOS, Windows, Linux onto that:

- slow macOS boot (3mins)

- unsupported by bootcamp

- unsupported by w10 installer

- 1 USB-C port occupied

Thomas Waldmann - Yanıt

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