Giriş
Keep those electrons flowing by replacing your broken power supply!
What you need
-
-
Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.
-
Remove the access door.
-
-
-
Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
-
Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws
-
One 8 mm T8 Torx screw (Right side of the RAM slot on 2105)
-
-
-
Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.
-
Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.
-
Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.
-
Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.
-
If the bezel refuses to release, try lifting the lower edge of the front bezel slightly away from the rear case (detailed in the next few steps) and repeat the latch release process.
I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...
the photo of latch is no longer there at Photobucket
ReneBruce kullanıcısından alıntı:
I have never seen a pict of the bezel latch, I hope this picture link helps you to figure out what is inside that you need the cc to hit to release, I had a tough time making it work but managed just before I gave up! http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb35/...
Thanks, your picture helped me.
Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.
Good tip. I sort of did this out of desperation before reading this. Seem to work to get it apart. I'll have to see about getting it back together.
Wow, I really got stuck on the bezel. I tried a credit card, even a flexible metal scraper, nope nothing budged. I finally got going with help from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzuBW3mu7... which the guy has the machine lying on its back, then you can carefully bend the front bezel up until you see the latches, and I got the scraper in front of the screen and un-did the latches that way. Onto the next step!
Replaced one of the redundant images of the card going into the slot, with the previously linked image of the latch itself. I was struggling to figure out how to get the thing open, thinking it was a latch that pushed *up* to the top of the system, but it actually pushes *forward* towards the screen. That accounts for the bending of the card, and the excess length required to insert it. After figuring that out, the case came off nicely.
Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.
Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.
Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!
This was perfect! I wish the original instructions mentioned the magnets.
I used magnets I pilfered from an old hard drive.
veganmo -
The iMacs I've taken apart open simply with a magnet. I made a video to show exactly how the latch works inside. You do need a strong magnet like the hard drive internal magnet suggestion however they can be found in many places, just look for 'rare earth' or 'neodymium' and you'll find one. probably .3" cube would be big enough.
there is the video that shows how the latch works. of course you may need TWO magnets to do both latches at the same time.
Save yourself some headache and get a magnet for this. I used these: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PWMVSI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sometimes just one will do the job, other times I've had to use all 4 together.
Much easier than trying to use a card.
sleestack is right on. The youtube vid is excellent for sliding the case right off without spudges and cards, etc. The vid's still there as of today, 9/30/2014. And the guy's foil removal is right on target, too. Very simple to replace the battery. I use this old 2006 computer with an old version of the PC program for Jobclock and only for that with Parallels 6 running the PC app. Don't want to upgrade or change anything at this point, going to milk it a couple more years. Got a nice big i5 for everything else. Oh, happy day.
Apple designed the latch to be released with a Magnet. That's it. That is the tool to be used.
Avoid frustration, hassles, wasted time: simply buy a "neodimio" Magnet.
Actually yes – IMHO It would have preferred iFixtit had mentioned a MAGNET to release the front Bezel, the credit card in an awkward and misleading (and not so smart) method.
I hope iFixit will change Step 3.
Be very careful here. One of the sides did not release using the plastic card. I tried to push it a bit but it would not give. It did work using 2 cards. What I did not realized until the very end, when I turned the imac back on, is that I broke the display. Thanks a lot ifixit. I get the hard drive back to work now but with a damaged display. And I can't even buy a replacement one from you.
Yes the screens in these machines are easy to break. I've opened these sorts of machines at least a 40 times. You do need to be very careful with the display. The won't take any pressure from a wayward thumb or finger etc. I have broken one once, trying to get a latch to give. You have to be very conscious not to out any fingers in the display at all.
BUT, how you think this is anyone's but your own fault is beyond me. iFixit has no blame to take here.
Please everyone, read through all instructions carefully and learn from others'.
And to this poster, go buy one of these machines from eBay or find in one in hard rubbish to repair yours. These white iMacs are almost 10 years old now. And are scrap in most people's minds.
-
-
-
Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.
-
To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
-
Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.
-
Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.
-
Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.
-
Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.
-
-
i posted a note on the next page about disconnecting the microphone and camera cable. may help. reed it before disconnect.
-
-
Disconnect the microphone cable.
-
Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.
there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.
sebalancea kullanıcısından alıntı:
there's no need to disconnect the microphone and camera cable. you can work against a wall and carefully rest the frame and the display on the wall.
I didn't even use the wall, I just carefully pivoted the frame backwards and laid it on the table without disconnecting the wires
Be careful. My microphone and camera cables looked a little bit different from this. My camera cable connector did NOT plug directly into the camera board (and I almost tried pulling the cable out of the board), but rather there was a cable to cable connector that was stuffed behind the monitor. I had to skip this step until the monitor was out. I have an early 2006 20" iMac.
My Mac had a different camera board and it didn't appear that the cables could be detached. Leaving them in place and propping up the back of the case worked for me.
-
-
-
Tape the EMI shield to the face of the display to keep it out of the way.
Bob kullanıcısından alıntı:
I didn't see the need to tape the foil to the display (and I didn't want to get any sticky residue on the screen), so I skipped this bit with no problems.
I agree, and tape doesn't stick to the screen (I tried and the tape came loose before I was done)
-
-
-
Remove the two 5 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable connector to the logic board.
-
Pull the display data cable connector up off the logic board by its black pull tab.
on this step I just forgot (there always something to forget!!) to connect back display data cable connector to the logic board, after I replaced the hard drive. Don't worry nothing happens. Hwen I switched on the iMac and it was just functioning alright and normal but I wasn't able see anything other than a black screen :)
If you got a black screen but a normal white light on the right bottom corner, think abot the connector !
-
-
-
Peel back the EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.
This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.
mindzeebeez kullanıcısından alıntı:
This is tricky and took some time and patience. It is best to have some foil tape handy because the EMF shield tears easily. Likewise when reinstalling the screen and EMF shield, it helps to have a partner who can stop the foil to the side of the screen from getting folded under the screen when you lower it back into position, ready to tape it back onto the edge of the screen.
I found that using the plastic card to remove the cover worked well in lifting the EM tape from the screen. Also step 10 & 11 appear to be reversed since you can't get to the screws until you have lifted up the display (this can only occur once you have dealt with the EM shield)
Peeling back the tape was very time consuming. I bet the pros just cut it and patch with new metallic tape. This step was the worst.
-
-
-
Allow the lower EMI shield to hang down from the display.
-
Remove the four 7.5 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.
Daniel kullanıcısından alıntı:
This is also a Torx T-9 on my 20" iMac Core Duo, probably manuf'd around the same time.
My mistake, it's actually a T-10, but the T-9 was the only one I could get to work due to the limited angle.
I believe this is where the $4.95 looong T-10 screwdriver shown in the recommended tools would have come in handy. We managed to make the driver from the 54 bit set work by holding the bit driver with a vice grip, which made it possible to get down in there. The various holders that came with the set were just a hair too thick.
These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.
mindzeebeez kullanıcısından alıntı:
These four screws are tricky to deal with. They are well recessed and hard to spot at first. A magnetised screwdriver is a prerequisite. Another way is to glue the screw heads to the screwdriver with some very weak glue, and let it almost set before trying to locate the screws back into their holes whilst re-assembling. I lost one screw somewhere inside the computer! It is alright with 3 but I hope it doesn't touch something vulnerable on the circuit board.
Try sticking the screw onto the driver with a tiny piece of blu-tac. Worked for me.
If your Torx screwdriver isn't magnetized, rub the tip 8-10 times on the magnet inside the white plastic cover (the one that holds the remote to the side of the monitor). Prestro... your Torx screwdriver is now magnetized!
I used a strong wall magnet to magnetize my screwdriver. It worked perfectly! Your tip was very helpful and pointed me to an answer that worked for me.
-
-
-
Lift the lower edge of the display and rotate it toward the top edge of your iMac.
If you remove the inverter wires after dealing with the EM shield you can flip the display without detaching the LCD data cable. Use the foot of the iMac (with a towel to protect the display) to hold the display while you work inside.
-
-
-
Disconnect both inverter cables from the inverter board.
Watch out when reconnecting the inverter cables - the little pins on the inverter board are very easily bent indeed when the plug isn’t put back totally straight. I happened to bend one on the lower edge, resulting in the display being only dimly lit in the lower half and requiring me to open the machine once more. Since I only flipped up the display unit (as in some of the comments on step 16) I could skip step 15 and never touched the inverter cables on the top edge of the inverter board.
-
-
-
Disconnect the two inverter cables at the top edge of the inverter using the method explained in the previous step.
I would mark the top of the large inverter cable connectors somehow, with a marker or pencil. My connectors had writing on the bottom, not the top as pictured, and I bent the pins trying to reinsert it incorrectly since the top and bottom look similar. Nearly all the other connectors have an obvious top and bottom.
Take pictures with iPhone of all tricky connectors and refer to them on reassembly:-)
-
-
-
-
Rotate the display until it is nearly perpendicular to the rear case and lift it up to peel it off the EMI shield stuck to its top edge.
You don't need to peel off the display from the top. Just lean it toward a wall etc. in a perpendicular angle. If you don't move the mac while you perform the following steps, it won't flip or fall down. You can also save step 15 this way, as the wires are long enough to stay connected.
Why peel it off? I just left it there in the perpendicular position leaning against the wall. Didn't annoy me at all when I changed the hard drive.
alex, Jul 02 2012
I've seen a few people comment having found their Airport dead after hard drive swap. It's really easy to rip off the wire from Airport antenna (up there nearby the mic and camera, to the left from them). The wire goes through the holes of upside EMI shielding and raising the display too high while trying to peel the shielding off can yank the wire so it gets loose from the soldering.
It looks like I'm late to the party but here goes anyway... I have Ubuntu Kylin installed on my iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and I want to use the iMac's display for my Linux install on that unit AND be able to switch the video going to the screen from my iMac to what's displayed on my Mac Mini. I think what I'm asking is how can I split the display so I can switch the video input to the video card from one machine to another.
You do not have to disassemble the logic board! At this point, you have to disassemble the hard disk, unscrew the 4 screws and the big power connector. The second small cable, without disassembling the motherboard, is enough to make it pass sideways, pulling away with a bit of force on plastic and the beat sink. The small sponge gasket must be removed and then rested. 3 minutes in total from this point!
-
-
-
Remove the single T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.
-
Pull the left speaker out of the rear case.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up off the AirPort Extreme card.
I only had one of these connectors on the Airport extreme card (in the lower position).
-
-
-
Use a metal spudger to disconnect the SATA data cable up off the logic board.
Be really careful disconnecting the SATA cable. Don't tug too hard, or tug at all really. I broke mine clear off the board and according to multiple sources it's not easy/worth trying to fix. So now it can't read the internal hard drive anymore.
How you fix it? I had the same situation.
While pulling on the SATA cable, the entire plastic socket base came off in my hand, leaving a bunch of metal socket prongs sticking up in the air. Fortunately I was able to push the plastic socket base back onto the prongs. Next time I'm going to skip this step, as it isn't really necessary.
I had the same situation and it seems it is stick with glue or something. I was not able to put it back again. Any tip?
-
-
-
Pull the IR board cable connector away from its socket on the IR board.
In fact it is easier to unscrew (T6) the metallic support and leave the card attached to the cables
-
-
-
De-route the speaker cables from beneath the IR Board and heatsink assembly.
I had to loosen the IR board (two Torx T6 screws) to make space to get the speaker wire out.
-
-
-
Disconnect the speaker cable connector by lifting it straight up off its socket on the logic board.
Mine was assembled with the Bluetooth connector ran such that it precludes removing the speakers completely, meaning step 28 had to be done while I was over there.
-
-
-
Disconnect the HDD fan and power button from the logic board by pulling their connectors straight up off the sockets on the logic board.
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Bluetooth antenna cable connector up off the Bluetooth board.
Apologies for the ignorance, but would using a spudger on something like the Bluetooth antenna connector necessarily break it? Will some special glue be required to re-attatch? I will definitely take this challenge up (better than buying a new computer and very rewarding), but it's little things like that that give me pause.
-
-
-
Disconnect the following connectors from the logic board:
-
Camera/IR board cable.
-
Optical drive fan.
The camera/IR connector was a real nightmare. The connector deformed and started disintegrating when I tried to remove it. Rather than destroy my computer, I just pushed the connect back as near as I could, and moved on. Luckily, it is possible to perform the procedure without taking off this cable.
-
-
-
Remove the following seven screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
-
Three coarse-thread T10 Torx.
-
Three fine-thread T10 Torx.
-
One long coarse-thread T10 Torx.
when I was removing the one long coarse-thread (yellow one), its support beneath it broke. I was very careful actually but I think these things unavoidable if you are threading an old computer (I am using it after 1 week its release)
so I put some glue (very very little quantity) in its remaining hole, just to keep the screw in that hole
-
-
-
Carefully rotate the top edge of the logic board out of the rear case and lift the board up out of the iMac, minding the RAM arms and any cables that may get caught.
Turning the logic board to remove it, pay attention to the side rubber rails, and underlying adhesive that seals the doors behind the imac
-
-
-
Remove four T10 Torx screws securing the power supply to the rear case.
-
Lift the power supply out of the rear case, minding the AC-in cable that may get caught.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
İptal et: Bu kılavuzu tamamlamadım.
82 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.
9 Comments
Excellent guide !
Great guide! Powered down computer prior to vacation and came back to find it non-operative. This guide, about 90 minutes, and a $50 replacement power supply off of ebay and it is back up and running. This is a secondary computer we don't use much any more, but I hated to throw it out when it was still working for what we were using it for. Thanks so much!
This is a great overview, but you DONT have to remove all the various connectors to the Logic Board. You're not removing the Logic Board! You just need to be able to remove enough to lift it (at the top) a few inches such that you can get access to the Power Supply's connectors (this saves 10+ steps).
The other "shortcut" guide, iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Power Supply - short cut method avoids removing logic board Replacement, (which says you dont have to remove the Logic Board at all), I didnt find very useful. I simply could not get at that connector the way it described. Just seemed safer to go about it, using this guide, via a limited removal of the Logic Board.
That being said, followed this guide and had a working iMac back up and running for $55.00. My old PSU was Apple P/N 614-0378. The replacement via Amazon seems to be a OEM: SADP-185AF. Had the same form factor and input/output voltage parameters though.
iMac Intel 20" EMC 2218: Model A1207
Finished successfully the guide. Had a lot of pain getting that AC input connector unplugged.
*****TIP******
When reassembling the machine back, stretch that connector a few inches towards the power supply itself, so you won't need to remove anything next time, even not the HD!
Really helpful guide thanks, kept and old 2006 model going for a bit longer anyway! Using for photos and it’s a nice piece of retro furniture in the background
Swapping in a new CPU and an SSD took me about 10 hours. I did take a dinner break and spent another hour rooting around in my garage to find my thermal paste. Still, this procedure can take a long time.
gordonhamachi - Yanıt
Only a french translation proposal. We use to say “démontage” instead of “installation'“ in that specific case. ;-) (Dismantling)
francis barbier - Yanıt