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Removing the display requires cutting through the adhesive around the perimeter of the screen. After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place, so you'll need to apply a new set of adhesive strips.
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With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Place an iMac service wedge in the stand to stabilize the iMac.
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If you are re-using your existing display, you must also remove the old adhesive from the back of the display.
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Peel off the old strips of adhesive using tweezers or your fingers. Start at the bottom and peel upward towards the top of the device.
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After all the old adhesive is removed, carefully clean off the adhesive residue with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction, not back and forth.
The aluminum frame have a plastic zone. Could the isopropyl alcohol damage the plastic surface?
Hello! Isopropyl alcohol should not damage the plastic surface.
It’s not clear if you’re supposed to remove the black strips under the adhesives from the screen. Sometimes they come off when removing the main adhesives, but they seem to be two separate layers.
Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.
“Only the adhesive should be removed—the black strips underneath them should stay in place.”
By fault I’ve removed the black strips, now there is a gap between the glass and the aluminum frame in the bottom.
the display is perfectly pasted, it’s only a matter of appearance…
If I open the computer again, what kind of adhesive tape (caption tape?) could I use to eliminate the gap between the glass and the frame?
Or it’s better to let it go…
Thanks for your support
Hi Massimiliano ,
You should be fine. The bottom edge doesn’t have black strips. It should be bare metal. However, there shouldn’t be any gaps between the glass and the frame. Make sure that the adhesive is fully adhered on the bottom edge.
Hi Arthur,
my English is not perfect…
I would mean that I removed all the black strips under the adhesives on the screen; so I believe that the glass has become too thin compared to the bottom aluminium frame.
I thought to open the Mac again and put some black strips to increase the thickness of the glass screen but I don’t know what kind of tape I should use (Kapton or other?).
And then I will put a new set of ifixit adhesives strips.
Maybe it’s a waste of time… it’ s only an aesthetic matter
Thanks again
Thanks for the clarification. Since there is always a chance to crack the screen glass when cutting the adhesive, I’d suggest not to open up the iMac again. However, if you do open it, I suggest using Tesa tape.
Thanks Arthur,
I will follow your suggestion… I will not open again my computer…
Now it works very well and fast.
So, the bit about the adhesive strips really needs to be clarified. Nowhere in the instructions is there talk about multiple layers of adhesive, one that should be removed and one that should remain. And looking at the pictures further on, clearly the wider sections where the adhesive go are completely clean of any black strips. However, on the screen side, I’ve noted that indeed there are two layers, at least on the top. And removing both layers leads to the adhesive *not* really taking hold and the screens falling out. Really wish this had been clearer. I’ve helped dozens of people upgrade their iMac but after the first time that I had to replace a screen due to it falling and breaking, I’ve been using clear strong adhesive tape externally on the corners to ensure that the screen stays in place. Ugly, but better than the risk.
I too started removing the second layer of adhesive strips before reading these comments. PLEASE update the article to reflect that the other black strips should stay!
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If your 4R strip does not contain a notch, follow this guide instead.
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Lay out the adhesives strips beforehand so you won't accidentally install a strip in the wrong place:
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Strip 01 on the top left
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Strip 02 on the top right
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Strip 03 on the right vertical
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Strip 4R on the bottom right, dark side facing up
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Strip 4L on the bottom left, dark side facing up
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Strip 05 on the left vertical
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Start with strip 03, which goes on the right vertical side of the rear enclosure.
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Grasp the blue tab and peel the short piece of backing off the back of the strip to expose a section of adhesive to attach to the enclosure.
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Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole at the end of the strip where you just removed one layer of backing. Insert the spudger from the side that still has a layer of white backing on it.
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With the spudger still poking through the hole in the adhesive strip, push the spudger tip into the corresponding hole in the frame of the iMac.
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Using the hole and spudger to anchor the position of the adhesive strip, line the strip up against the right edge, gently pulling up against the spudger to ensure the strip is taut, and stick it onto the frame.
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Work your way counter-clockwise around the perimeter of the iMac, adding three more adhesive strips in the same manner:
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Strip 02 on the top right
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Strip 01 on the top left
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Strip 05 on the left vertical
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Grasp the red pull tab on strip 4R and pull to separate about 2 inches (5 cm) of white backing from the strip.
These steps instruct you to install the lower strips to the iMac frame first, as that is what Apple instructs their techs to do. If you have an iMac without a microphone hole, you can choose to install the lower strips onto the display first. Peel the blue tab instead of the red to expose the adhesive. Carefully place the adhesive along the bottom edge of the display. The L-bend on the adhesive should match the display contours.
i have no microphone hole - which is good . . . because the 4R and 4L stips must be labelled incorrectly as the L’s are on the wrong side. Also the strips don’t completely cover the bottom. And there are no holes in these strips making placement less secure. Someone certainly goofed. (Reckon I’ll use snipped off L’s to cover the open space.
Ah, the L strips don’t overlap - so they’re long enuf, but they are still reversed.
Die Löcher in den Klebestreifen passen nicht (mehr) zu den Löchern im Rahmen. Ich habe mich an den breiten Stellen orientiert und die Klebestreifen daran ausgerichtet. Das ging besser.
The holes in the adhesive strips no longer match the holes in the frame. I oriented myself towards the wide areas and aligned the adhesive strips with them. That worked better.
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Align the adhesive strip to the bottom edge by positioning the microphone notch over the microphone hole.
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If your iMac does not have a microphone hole, align the right end of the strip such that the L-bend sits next to the right vertical adhesive. The L-bend should not overlap the right vertical adhesive.
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Once you have aligned the strip, carefully set the left exposed edge onto the iMac to secure the alignment.
The strips that I received from OWC do not have a notch cut out for the microphone. The instructions advise you, for 2017 and later 21.5” iMacs, to cut about 2 inches off from the left side of the strip so you do not cover the microphone hole.
As far as the remaining 2 inches I cut off, I snipped off a little more on the right side to leave a small gap for the microphone and placed that small remaining part in the center where it should have been if there was no microphone, just to complete the adhesive.
I have done quite a few of these now. It is easier to apply the bottom strips to the Display, rather than the housing. With the Red tabs folded at 90 degrees to the adhesive. You can then remove these tabs with the display kind in place, secured by painters tape on the out side before closing it up.
Don't make the mistake i just did - if you want to cut a notch, cut the BOTTOM 2/3rds section of the strip, not the top! :P
Also, here's a some pics of the mic location in the 2017 retina version from iFIXit: Muffled Microphone - iMac 21.5" (mid 2017) - Following Adhesive Strips.
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Gently set the display in place over the iMac and align it carefully.
In my experience, it is easier to lay the Mac flat on its back, especially if you do not have a wedge, because the display will tilt up and down and you do not want that happening. With the Mac on its back, I removed all the front adhesive strips and then angled the display (not a big angle) against the chin making sure it was even on both sides. Then reconnect the video cables and gently bring the display down into the proper position. Step 23 below seems too much of a hassle to try and get the bottom adhesive strips out while the display is resting on them, and taping the bottom of the display in Step 19 also seems to be a hassle.
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Use painter's tape or masking tape to temporarily secure the bottom edge of the display to the iMac's enclosure.
Noooo!! I followed this step and promptly cracked my screen!!!! You need to be extremely careful NOT to wrap the tape around the back of the computer. These images make it look like it's wrapped around, but if you do that, you won't be able to lift the screen at all to attach the display cables. Why?!!!!!
Oh no! I'm so sorry to hear this! Thank you for sharing your experience—I'm going to add a warning into the step.
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Insert the display power cable into its socket on the logic board.
I am powering the unit back up to test all is working. Screen is black but fan is running loud. I’ve decoupled the power and confirmed both the display cables are connected. Note - I replaced both the HDD with a SSD as well as upgraded the RAM from 8GB to 16GB.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your other hand to gently insert the display data cable connector into its socket on the logic board.
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Secure the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable downwards towards the logic board.
While the previous step refers to “cables,” plural, this step suggests that only the display cable needs to be reinstalled in order to test working order. In my experience (iMac 21-1/2" Retina 4K Display, late 2015), I found that I had to also reconnect the camera/microphone cable in order for the screen to work. [6/7/21]
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Set the display back on the iMac's rear enclosure.
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At this time, plug in your iMac, power it on, and test your repair before moving on to actually sealing up the computer. Be sure to check for full functionality of any hardware you removed or disconnected.
At this point I tested everything to make sure it worked, including the microphone. It was a bit muffled so I poked it with a pin to try and clear it. This was incredibly stupid because (a) the muffling was due to the backing which I was about to remove from the strip (b) poking with a pin broke the microphone.
I’m not going to buy a new microphone (£72 apparently) and a new set of strips, so I’ll get an external USB microphone instead.
But to anyone else, if the microphone sound is muffled, don’t worry!
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After confirming that your iMac functions properly, disconnect the display cables and carefully lean the display forward.
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Remove the film from the two bottom strips by reaching in from above with a pair of tweezers and pulling the blue tabs straight up from the bottom edge of the display.
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Reconnect the display power and data cables for the final time.
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Steady the display with one hand as you remove the protective film in the following steps, or rest it lightly against the iMac's enclosure.
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To ensure a strong bond, carefully tip the iMac flat on its back (with the screen facing straight up) and press carefully but firmly around all four edges of the display.
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Remove the tape securing the display to the rear enclosure.
Yo lo pongo sobre una manta con la pantalla apoyada sobre la manta.Pongo trapos o papel de cocina doblado alrededor de la pantalla y lo sujeto con pinzas de tender ropa.Lo dejo así 24 horas y queda perfecto. Saludos y gracias por el tutorial.
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Good Lord, why does Apple have to make it so difficult to upgrade or repair? There comes a point where design aesthetic just isn't worth it. Magnets, like I believe older iMacs use to attach the front glass, would have made it much easier. I'll take the extra bulk any day.
Have you actually done the replacement? It's actually pretty easy. Apple did everything they could to make it as painless as possible: the old adhesive separates without *any* residue, it doesn't rip apart, it doesn't make a mess. Things align like magic.
True, it could be easier. Like with the old color iMac SD. But since I don't take my iMac apart every day, doing this once or maybe twice in my computer's lifetime is a small price to pay for a *really* slim and good looking device.
I had some issues with steps 21, 22 and 23 ... the tabs would rip off. After the third one I used the plastic card to gently create some space for the strip to escape.
Thank you for this fantastic guide, and all of the iFixit guides! Just finished this replacement using the iFixit Adhesive Strips/iMac Opener tool combo--everything worked very well, except that the iMac Opener tool did not particularly like the broken glass area of the display, which bent the plastic of the "pizza cutter" wheel a little.
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One bit of helpful advice is to use extreme care when placing the replacement display back into the iMac. Make sure that you do not put the display back in at too great of an angle, or there will be a very noticeable gap at the bottom, between the display glass and the iMac frame. Adhesive strips are not forgiving, and rarely give multiple chances!
We've revised the guide procedure and it makes positioning the screen very easy. You can drop it into place and fine-tune the position to your heart's content. :)
Place some sticky tape along the lower edge of the iMac either side of Apple logo. Position screen carefully onto the lower ledge and then use the tape to hold. Tape then acts as a hinge allowing you to raise or lower screen while in the right position. I did this and also used some tape at the top so I could reconnect screen and test HDD install. Then you can hinge screen down to remove the adhesive tape backing strips in order to close up the screen for good!!
Thanks for the tip! We've added it to the guide.
Somewhere between steps 2 and 3 you might want to add, that you also need to remove the old adhesive from the rear of the screen assembly
Good call! Done and done. Thanks!
Just successfully upgraded one of these to an SSD using the instructions, tools and adhesive strips from iFixit. The instructions are excellent, and the iMac opener tool does a good job of cutting the adhesive to get it open.The adhesive strips in the kit are excellent - don’t even think about trying to make your own - just buy these and make your life MUCH easier. The final part of using masking tape to position the display before final sealing is very important, and works brilliantly.
I found that for steps 10 & 11, it is better to attach 4R and 4L to the glass directly by removing the blue side of the adhesive strips and placing where they fit correctly onto the glass. Then remove the red tabs just before placing the glass onto the Mac. The right-angle ends of the tape align with the corners on the glass back.
Of course monitor won't turn on after putting it back in. Any hint?
Joao, I had the same problem just last week. In my case, it seems I hadn’t fully inserted the video cable. I opened it up again, reset the cables, and yes, the video still works. So, open it up, order some new adhesive strips, and be *extra* careful the second time you do it.
David -
This was the toughest part of the HD>>SSD upgrade.Removing all the gunk, and aligning the new strips took more than an hour. The rest half that! But all good now, Thanks Sam.
Thank you for this easy to use guide. Only read, look the pictures and do exactly what to do and the iMac looks like before
Tolle Anleitung, vielen Dank. Ich bin sehr frog, dass es eure Seite gibt. Die Klebestreifen habe ich bei euch gekauft und sie sind sehr gut.
This guide is accurate and works just fine. I also have had problems with the tabs pulling off the backing making it difficult to continue. I had problems with 4L & 4R on a previous install and today with the short end of 2. I find that after 4L & 4R removal and mating the bottom, pulling all the strips off keeping the screen spaced 2” or so at the top with one hand, removing all the strips, and then setting the entire screen works best for me.
Hi
Your description does not meet reality.
FIRST
There is another thing to my kit : Number 5 was too long. About 5 mm !!! Did I get the right one ?
Then let’s start with step TWO.
When lifting up the tape from the back of the screen, on the upper side the result was not like on the sides. The tape that came off from the top was almost 10mm wide !! After cleaning I realized that there is a second black tape on the back of the monitor. On the top it is gone now, on the sides it’s still there. What do I do ?
Step THREE
My kit had transparent tape on those tips. Had I everything the wrong way round ?
Let’s go to step ELEVEN
It’s about the second photo with the final image after putting the tapes in place. Why are they all black now ? Whatever is the reason for that, one feels pretty uncertain of the whole procedure. Are both the 4-tapes really the other way round ? On my kit, the red handle would take of the thick paperlike side… ???
So. What do I do with those tapies on the back of the screen. I take them off, right ?
You want to remove the foam adhesive, as shown in the photos, and nothing else. The wide black mylar layer you’re describing is part of the display itself and should not be removed. If it peels up by accident, carefully smooth it out and stick it back down. Yes, the 4R and 4L strips should be placed exactly as shown in the guide.
The same thing happened to me except I throw away the large tape (10mm wide) from the LCD before I realized I should have kept it in place.
Nevertheless, I completed the installation and everything works great except :
1) the LCD is slightly recessed in the enclosure (no big deal)
2) there is a section on the upper left of the screen where there is a gap between the enclosure and the LCD because the adhesive did not stick well there
May the removal of the large LCD tape (10mm wide) be causing the adhesive problem on the upper left of the screen ?
If I want to redo the job to get rid of the two problems I mentioned, what would you suggest me to do ?
AVOID SHOCK… just wanted to add - Even with the power cable removed during the process there is still a very strong chance of getting a belt off of the power board… These boards can hold charge for a long time. Do NOT touch the board with tweezers or your fingers when removing the 4L & 4R strips.
Brilliant guide btw.
However came across a major issue which I think you should update the guide with a note warning other people.
In newer IMacs apple has repositioned the microphone to the bottom bar where the 4r &4l strips are placed. The instructions in your guides don’t mention this and the adhesive strips will cover the microphone hole resulting in a muffled microphone input. Just be careful guys.
Great guide, kudos! Upgraded an old iMac 21.5 late-2012 (EMC 2544).
The stripes (bought with the “pizza-cutter” tool) were of the right length and shape.
One little remark on “Step 4” - “Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole …” : the hole is obstructed by clear film on both sides of the tape; the spudger can’t help with the alignment as suggested, although the film is clear and you can locate the reference hole/notch by looking-thru the clear film. Same holds true for strips 2, 1 and 5.
I found strips 4L and 4R (steps 10, 11) to be the challenging ones: start from the sides of the central screw, lay down in place the (partially peeled) portion of the tape and, while progressing, gently peel-off the portion of the tape to stick next. The lower edge of the tape almost sits on the ledge of the aluminum front part of the chassis. Never pull the tape as the peeled part is easy to stretch along its length.
On step 13, securing the bottom side of the screen with masking tape was a brilliant idea.
Many thanks!!
I have a difficult time removing the display. The adhesive seems to be sticking to much and I am afraid of damaging the display. I have damaged 3 tools and cannot get it to move a bit. Any thoughts?
Hello, did it thank you.
For the most part the guide was pretty accurate.
I don’t understand why I couldn’t see it translated (in french) although I know the translation exists
Hello! I’m glad you had a successful repair. We updated this guide recently and the updated guide has not been translated yet—it will soon!
Dear Sam and iFixit contributors,
So many thanks for you for this tutorial !
Everything worked fine for me. I replaced my hard disk and mounted back the screen. It took me three hours but I have been patient and I spent some time contemplating the computer’s inside. The ifixit replacement kit was OK.
Cheers !
An excellent guide. I was nervous before attempting this, but the steps were extremely clear and I completed this without any issue. ?
Great guide! I used the apple replacement part kit that comes with both the 04 and 4L & 4R stripes . I will highly suggest to use the 04 on those iMac with microphone on the top and not the center of the bottom adhesive stripe just like mine 21.5" late 2013.
If you use the 4L and 4R you are going to have both ends of the stripe hanging in the air.
I removed the screen in order to upgrade the HDD to an SSD. I found the old adhesive was very difficult to remove from the back of the display panel even with liberal lashings of 100% isopropyl alcohol. Some of the black (paint or tape, or whatever it is) coating on the back of the sides of the screen parted company with the glass thanks to the extended rubbing. Next time I might let it soak for a while and hopefully that will be more successful.
IT Helper's point (May 11 2015) is a good one and I wish I had read that before refitting the screen. If I had done so the result would've been neater.
The opener tool worked a treat.
Done!! Thank you all. Fantastic Guide.
I have learnt something really important when using your guides, spend sometime reading other users comments. It will save you time & money.
Mine --> iMac Retina 4K 21.5-inch 2017
Display removed and set again - 0 problems.
Well done team!!
