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Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.
To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.
Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.
Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.
Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.
Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.
The third picture shows the top front bezel brackets and their slots cut into the top edge of the iMac's rear case.
Do not completely remove the front bezel, as it is still attached by the camera/microphone cables.
If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.
The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.
Disconnect the microphone cable.
Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.
The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.
Before attempting this step, we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid the display falling down.
Remove the eight T8 Torx screws securing the display assembly to the rear case.
It is helpful to use a thin magnetized screwdriver to remove these screws.
Gently pull the cable retainer on the optical drive cable ZIF socket toward the right side of the iMac.
The retainer should move about 1 mm and stop. Do not attempt to remove the retainer.
Pull the optical drive ribbon cable out of its socket, being careful not to rip it in the process.
Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board by pulling its cable toward the right side of the iMac while depressing its locking mechanism.
It is helpful to use a spudger and pry from alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
Pull the hard drive SATA data cable perpendicular to the face of the logic board to disconnect it from its socket.
To avoid damaging the socket on the logic board, we recommend using a metal spudger to help separate the SATA data cable and its socket.
Remove the following ten screws:
Three 6.6 mm T10 Torx fine thread screws
Three 7 mm T10 Torx coarse thread screws
Two 9.3 mm T10 Torx coarse thread screws
Two 5.3 mm T10 Torx coarse thread screws
Pull the right edge of the logic board slightly away from the rear case to dislodge the rear I/O ports from their bezel.
Tilt the top edge of the board away from the rear case and lift the logic board assembly out of the rear case, minding any cables that may get caught.
When reinstalling the logic board, it is helpful to use tape to temporarily tuck the cables out of the way until the board is properly seated in the rear case.
During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.
Flip the logic board over so it is heat sink side down.
Remove the following T10 Torx screws.
One short screw near the end of the heat sink.
Four screws around the CPU itself.
It may be necessary to use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to hold the spring loaded screw bosses stationary while you remove the four screws around the CPU.
Remove the CPU heat sink from the logic board.
Before reinstalling the CPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. We have a
guide that makes it easy.
Use a small flathead screwdriver to rotate the CPU lock 180 degrees counter-clockwise.
Do not try to rotate the lock more than 180 degrees.
Lift the CPU straight up from its socket.
When installing a new CPU, be sure the small gold triangle in one corner of the new CPU is in the same position as the old CPU.
Before installing the CPU heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of
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