Giriş

Upgrade your hard drive for more storage space!

Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac. Both screws remain captive within the access door.
  • Loosen the two Phillips screws securing the access door to your iMac.

  • Both screws remain captive within the access door.

  • Remove the access door.

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Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:
  • Remove the following screws along the lower edge of your iMac:

    • Three 6 mm T8 Torx screws

    • One 8 mm T8 Torx screw

My iMac had four 6mm T8 Torx screws (so not one 8mm screw)

floor - Yanıt

Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface. To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:
  • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

    • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

    • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

    • Pull the front bezel up with your index fingers.

  • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

My iMac did not have the "small bridge of material" mentioned, however the bezel just lifted off easily.

maccentric - Yanıt

Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge. The third picture shows the top front bezel brackets and their slots cut into the top edge of the iMac's rear case. Do not completely remove the front bezel, as it is still attached by the camera/microphone cables.
  • Lift the front bezel off the rear case and rotate it away from the bottom edge of the iMac, minding the camera and microphone cables still attached to its upper edge.

  • The third picture shows the top front bezel brackets and their slots cut into the top edge of the iMac's rear case.

  • Do not completely remove the front bezel, as it is still attached by the camera/microphone cables.

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If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.
  • If necessary, remove the strip of tape covering the microphone cable connector.

  • The microphone connector is located near the inside of top edge of your iMac.

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Disconnect the microphone cable. Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board. The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.
  • Disconnect the microphone cable.

  • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the camera board.

  • The camera cable connector and socket are delicate and easily bent. Remove with caution.

I found it easier not to remove the cables connecting camera and microphone, but rather to lean the plastic frame agains a pile of books so that it could rest almost vertical avoiding the need to disconnect those two sensitive cables.

Stefano C - Yanıt

I agree that for a simple, quick battery change, don't risk damaging those delicate wires. Ignore Step 6 and instead of disconnecting the mic and camera wires, keep them in place and just have a friend hold the plastic frame up while you change the battery, or prop it up as mentioned by Stefano C above.

WT Kwok - Yanıt

Make sure you double check the new logic board for the presence of the GPU assembly before installing. I stupidly installed a new board without moving the GPU from the old one first. So i guess you can say this guide worked for me twice. :)

Trevor Kearsey - Yanıt

Peel the two highlighted EMI shield tabs off the frame of the LCD. Peel the two highlighted EMI shield tabs off the frame of the LCD.
  • Peel the two highlighted EMI shield tabs off the frame of the LCD.

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Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.
  • Remove the two T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

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Pull the black plastic tab attached to the display data cable connector to disconnect it from the logic board.
  • Pull the black plastic tab attached to the display data cable connector to disconnect it from the logic board.

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Use your fingertips to pull both sides of the wide inverter cable connector out of its socket on the logic board. De-route the inverter cable from its location next to the CPU fan.
  • Use your fingertips to pull both sides of the wide inverter cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the inverter cable from its location next to the CPU fan.

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Before attempting this step, we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid the display falling down.
  • Before attempting this step, we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid the display falling down.

  • Remove the eight T8 Torx screws securing the display assembly to the rear case.

  • It is helpful to use a thin magnetized screwdriver to remove these screws.

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Remove the display assembly from the iMac.
  • Remove the display assembly from the iMac.

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Disconnect the SATA data and power cables by pulling their connectors away from the hard drive. Disconnect the SATA data and power cables by pulling their connectors away from the hard drive.
  • Disconnect the SATA data and power cables by pulling their connectors away from the hard drive.

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Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor cable from the thermal sensor attached to the side of the hard drive.
  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor cable from the thermal sensor attached to the side of the hard drive.

Since you're going to transfer this to the new drive, I found it easier to disconnect the other end of the temp sensor cable, on the edge of the mobo.

maccentric - Yanıt

Agree 100% with maccentric. Disconnecting the other end of the temp sensor cable is a much easier way to go on this step.

phil - Yanıt

Compress the plastic hard drive retainer by pushing it toward the bottom edge of the iMac. Pull the top edge of the hard drive slightly away from the rear case.
  • Compress the plastic hard drive retainer by pushing it toward the bottom edge of the iMac.

  • Pull the top edge of the hard drive slightly away from the rear case.

I found it easier to take out the two torq screws on the plastic holder, in stead of compressing it.

eriktar - Yanıt

Lift the hard drive off its bottom retaining posts and remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the hard drive off its bottom retaining posts and remove it from the iMac.

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Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the side of the hard drive.
  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the side of the hard drive.

  • Remove the hard drive bracket.

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Remove the two T8 Torx retaining posts from the other side of the hard drive.
  • Remove the two T8 Torx retaining posts from the other side of the hard drive.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the thermal sensor from the side of the hard drive.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the thermal sensor from the side of the hard drive.

  • Hard drive remains.

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Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

103 başka kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

5 Yorum

Does the T8 Torx have to be security type? In the guide it only says remove T8 torx screws. But never says if they are security type or not.

Evan Lewis - Yanıt

Is it possible to replace it with an SSD? If yes which are compatible and what about the termal sensor?

Jelle V - Yanıt

Watch that LCD temp sensor cable guys, it's a !@#$% to repair or replace. It runs around the monitor housing and can get severed by a bezel screw if not hidden carefully before attaching the outer housing of the iMac. If you tear it, here's the part number and discussion of this very issue: https://discussions.apple.com/message/24... Apple Part Number: 922-8236

Giles Dickerson - Yanıt

The T8 Torx does *not* have to be security type. However it is critical to have a long, thin, dedicated T8 screwdriver, not one that is part of a kit with interchangeable tips (and thus a thick collar that won't fit into the narrow slot). I got the kit, it didn't work, returned it and got an unmagnetized T8 with 2.5" length. I then magnetized it with a strong refridge magnet (which didn't work well), so better yet after I removed the 8 screws (Step 11), I magnetized the screws themselves, which worked great.

WT Kwok - Yanıt

Could the author add a few notes about how to clean off any remaining adhesive on the HD Temp. Sensor and what type of adhesive to use in re-attaching the HD Temp. Sensor to the new drive? In addition; a note on how to locate the sensor on the drive chassis, if using the original location, but on the new drive, is not possible.

Gary Gauthier - Yanıt

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