Giriş

Upgrade your hard drive for more storage space!

This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with a SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

  • Stick a heavy-duty suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

  • To attach the suction cups, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel (as highlighted in the second picture).

  • While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle (as highlighted by the third picture).

  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a damp soft, lint-free cloth. (Dampen with distilled water, and if needed, an equal ratio of distilled water and white vinegar for best results.)

  • Do not use the suction cups to carry the display glass because if one of them fails to stick, you could drop the screen and break it.

  • The original iMac box makes a good place to store the glass panel. Otherwise, a padded horizontal surface, like a towel on a desk will do nicely.

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron - Yanıt

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner - Yanıt

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie - Yanıt

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303 - Yanıt

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza -

My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

Awolf - Yanıt

Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

Stuart Bloomfield - Yanıt

I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

gordonhamachi - Yanıt

Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.
  • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

  • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

    • Don't use the suction cups to carry the glass panel—if either one loses its grip, the panel could fall and break.

    • After setting the glass panel down safely, be sure to release the suction cups, as the suction force over time, can crack the glass.

  • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau - Yanıt

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension -

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh - Yanıt

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand - Yanıt

I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

Daniel -

The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

dtsai2 -

I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

shippe - Yanıt

I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

Alex Reynolds - Yanıt

You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

Roberto Blandino - Yanıt

Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

matteoslataper -

I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

Amy C - Yanıt

Hi Amy,

To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

Arthur Shi -

  • Remove the eight T10 Torx screws securing the LCD to the outer case.

The replacement display I received did not have a bracket around the edges so I can reinstall it. On the old display, it seems the bracket is screwed in, but even with all screws removed, I cannot get it to budge. Is there a trick? Is this even possible?

wooten1138 - Yanıt

Reassembly: be careful with the screws! The magnets attract them and the screwdriver as well! Better to use a screwdriver without replaceable end insert. I had to use one of this second type and I struggled a lot!

Roberto Blandino - Yanıt

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nB172HJeM0...

Try this easy GPU fix before buying a new graphics card! It fixed the white screen issue on my EMC 2374.

adamg5 - Yanıt

  • Carefully lay the iMac stand-side down on a flat surface.

  • Due to tight tolerances, you will have to use a thin hooked tool to lift the display out of the outer case. As seen in the third picture, we made one out of a bent paperclip.

  • Use a thin hooked tool to lift one side of the top edge of the display by its steel outer frame.

  • After lifting the top edge of the display on one side, hold it out of the outer case while you use a hooked tool to lift the other side.

  • Do not lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case too far, as several short ribbon cables still connect the two components.

Be careful with any tool while lifting the edge of the display. Under the top left edge of the display sits the bluetooth-antenna-connector. I pulled it out while lifting. It was not such a great problem, cause i could just plug it in again. But maybe you could cut the small cable depending on the tool you use to lift.

Gee - Yanıt

The display is quite heavy, an is fitted with a tight tolerance. I found it very difficult and dangerous, lifting it with any tool in one corner while the iMac was lying down. Instead, after removing the T10 screws, it was quite easy pulling the display out of the iMac with my fingers on both sides, while the iMac was in the upright position. By doing that, you can easily hold the display with one hand and reach for the connecting cables with the other

Georg P - Yanıt

I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches to the inner top of the display but all the pics show the display completely removed after all cables are disconnected without the short ribbon cable intact. Does this short ribbon cable have a purpose and does it need to be reconnected? If so, how? Or is it just some worthless control put in by Apple to show its been messed with when brought back for repair? Thanks

alligator69 - Yanıt

  • Using your fingers, carefully pull the vertical sync cable out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.

    • Be sure to pull the connector parallel to the LED driver board, straight out of its socket.

This cable is very small and fiddley to remove if you don't have much in the way of finger nails. The cables are very thin and fragile.

James York - Yanıt

It took me a bit of work to remove this cable, it was a hassle actually. What worked for me, without any tools, was to use your index and middle fingers' nails and pull it. That worked better than the index and thumb. Took me like 15 minutes, more than what it should take.

thefinalzeta - Yanıt

Yes, me too! It stuck terribly hard and I spent most of the time for the repair for this s**** little connector. I thought all the time, I'm gonna break it or tear off these tiny cables... All the other cables were *rather* easy-going. In the end I finally got a new SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB SSD working.

And thanks to the SDD Fan Control app it is sooo silent. Thanks to Exirion!

Nick van Hill -

When the cable comes out, make note of which side has the gold contacts visible. On my cable, you could only see them from the "top" side (aka, as you look down on it). From the "bottom" or back side of the cable, you could NOT see any gold contacts. This will help to orient the cable when reconnecting it.

markcerv - Yanıt

In my case, all the cable connectors were oriented having the golden contacts, as seen from the wide side of the connectors, oriented facing away from the board

Georg P - Yanıt

From this point onwards I found very useful a flashlight to illuminate inside the iMac.

Roberto Blandino - Yanıt

Take care not to pull off the socket off along with the connector as happened to me.

Fortunately there are used pull on eBay. Even saw one that had the same socket ripped off also.

Joel Yang - Yanıt

FYI; Cable in 27 EMC 2390 I just worked on looked different. Was simple flat connecter with nothing other than blue coloring on end. Just flat gold connectors on bottom side. These kinds are very tricky to extract and even trickier to reinsert as there is too much flex and not enough slack/room for finger/tool to get back in.

My solution is unconventional but works. I do not remove the cables (!). I work on the floor, lying on my belly. I open slowly and carefully only as far as the cables inside will allow. Use a flashlight so you can really see clearly. Then I prop up the both sides of the display using anything the right size (box, a pair of boots…) It is crucial of course that you have things propped up securely so screen can stay a few inches up without hands! I use a very short #10 Torx so I can remove the old HD. There is barely enough room to work but it is do-able with care (and light!). As I am usually putting in an SSD these days, I simply use electrical tape to secure it. Close slowly. Test

Jed Wevaer - Yanıt

  • Squeeze the two display data cable connector arms together to unlock it from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

This connection is very fragile, and many people have broken the display connector on the logic board. You need to carefully pull the connector out, and when putting it back together, you need to carefully push the connector back in.

pmah - Yanıt

i did break mine. do you know where to buy that component?

Cris - Yanıt

In my iMac the cable was stuck to the structure of the computer with a piece of foam tape. Pulling it very gently, gradually it detached with no damages.

Roberto Blandino - Yanıt

I pulled a bit too hard and metal cover over the module attached to the logic board came off from one side exposing metal teeth. To my surprise I managed to put it back. Even bigger surprise Mac works just fine!

Wojtek - Yanıt

  • Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.

You need to squeeze the connector top to unlatch, then pull it parallel to the LED backlight board.

Charlie - Yanıt

Here I used the flat end of a spudger to unlatch the connector top.

Roberto Blandino - Yanıt

  • Lift the display for enough clearance to disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • If your fan is spinning full speed after completion, check this connection or the hard drive's thermal sensor cable.

Before you take/remove the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket, make a note of which color cable is on the left, and which is on the right. When I removed the cable, the black cable was leftmost, and the grey cable was rightmost.

markcerv - Yanıt

I replaced hard drive and added a second SSD on a 2010 27" iMac. Everything seemed fine for about a year, and now the fans run continuously. I think it's this cable in Step 8; I'll get around to opening it up to check.

pigeonf16 - Yanıt

  • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case.

And if the panel has no frame? How you unattach the frame from the old panel to place it on the new one?

Daria Drozd - Yanıt

  • Before disconnecting the thermal sensor cable, take note of its orientation. It is extremely important to reinstall the connector in the current orientation so the fans will not run at full speed. If you have multiple pins on your replacement hard drive, put the connector closest to the SATA connections and closest to the PCB board.

  • Disconnect the thermal sensor, SATA power, and SATA data cables by pulling their connectors away from the sockets on the hard drive.

To avoid a crazy spinning Fan, if you replace the HD by a SSD, without the fancy kit, just shortwire the plug. I used a copper from a CAT5 ethernet cable. Warning: you override the temperature sensor! I never had any trouble with that.

it4art - Yanıt

@it4art

What does that mean, to shortwire the plug ? I’m planning to put a SSD into an old iMac soon.

Novak - Yanıt

  • Remove the two T10 Torx screws securing the upper hard drive bracket to the outer case.

Yorum Ekle

  • Slightly rotate the hard drive away from the outer case.

  • Lift the hard drive off its two lower positioning pins and remove it from the outer case.

Yorum Ekle

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the upper bracket to the hard drive.

  • Remove the upper bracket from the hard drive.

Yorum Ekle

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the other side of the hard drive.

Yorum Ekle

  • Carefully peel off the piece of EMI foam attached to the front of the hard drive.

  • Don't forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

Yorum Ekle

  • Only follow the next ten steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit.

  • Depress the enclosure's front plate latch with your finger. While holding the latch down, swing the plate out.

  • Remove the front plate.

Yorum Ekle

  • Line up the small SATA connectors so that the narrow side of the connector on the SSD matches the narrow side on the enclosure connector.

  • Slide the drive in through the front of the enclosure until the SATA connector is fully seated.

    • The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one way. If the connectors are not lining up, rotate the SSD and try again.

Yorum Ekle

  • You may optionally install two Philips #1 screws that came with the enclosure kit to secure the SSD in the enclosure.

Yorum Ekle

  • Plug the included sensor-enabled SATA power cable into the wide side of the enclosure's SATA connector.

    • The cable is keyed to connect in only one way. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180°, and try again.

Yorum Ekle

  • Peel the backing off of the adhesive back of the small temperature sensor board.

  • Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal area of the surface of the SSD, as close as possible to the SATA connector.

  • Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.

Yorum Ekle

  • Install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.

    • The holes on the enclosure may not be threaded, so screwing the mounting pins into them may require extra effort. Take your time and screw them in slowly, making sure they go in straight.

Yorum Ekle

  • Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.

Yorum Ekle

  • Connect the iMac's SATA power cable to the new temperature-capable SATA power cable.

  • Route the SATA cables where they will not interfere with any other components.

Yorum Ekle

  • Connect the iMac's SATA data cable to the enclosure's SATA data connector.

Yorum Ekle

  • Find a connector on the motherboard labeled HD TMP or HDD TEMP.

    • If you have trouble locating it, trace the two-wire temperature cable you disconnected from the old hard drive.

  • If the previous temperature cable is still connected to the board here, disconnect and remove it. You will no longer need it.

  • Connect the temperature sensor's two-wire red-black cable to the motherboard plug labeled HD TMP or HDD TEMP.

    • The connector is keyed to fit in one way only. If it seems like the connector is not fitting the socket, flip the connector and try again.

  • Route the excess wire so it does not interfere with any other components.

Amazing guide, thanks for making it!

I replaced my HDD with an SSD and am very happy with the result. Used an aluminium 2.5 to 3.5” adapter to properly locate the SSD in the machine. Using SSD Fan control app (free) and all is good.

The video connector (flat delicate cable) was quite difficult to put back but otherwise the install was not difficult.

Tim Biddulph - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

200 başka kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

48 Yorum

Hey I just replaced my i Mac HDD to a WD Green the previous one was really noisy. Thanks this walkthrough really helped me out. My I Macs now super quiet. This worked well for me. Thanks i fix it.

Levi Oscar - Yanıt

Your WD green is an SSD or another HDD?

Mauricio Coruja -

Thanks for the guide guys, managed to replace a broken HDD in no time. However, I'd like to mention that standard torx bits could not be used to remove the display, a normal screwdriver with replacable bits is too thick to fit in, and bits are too short, so you will need something thinner (or longer bits).

Thraex Aquator - Yanıt

Is it ok to replace the HDD with a SDD? (I know there is a tutorial for adding an SSD as a second drive, but I (and I'm sure others) don't have a big enough need or feel comfortable with the process involved.

Oliver Jobson - Yanıt

What did you find out regarding this?

jonathan wishnev -

This is a great guide. If you take your time and don't rush you wont have any problems. I just replaced the HD in my buddy's 27" iMac and had a blast doing it! Step by Step this guide walks you through the process without any questions. Thanks iFixit!

davepascarella - Yanıt

This guide was really helpful. I now have a super fast 1TB SSD in place of the original hard disk. It's like having a new computer.

James York - Yanıt

I did it! new to this kind but just want a challenge and didn't want to drag my 27" imac into the mall which more than 1 hr away. Everything seems running smoothly except for the fan is on all the time. It's only off when I sleep or shutoff the computer.

Although I read the step carefully over & over again. I noted this issue down because look like it's common mistake. Therefore, I believe after 2nd time re-look and redo, especially on step 8 & 10, I don't know what else can I do to make the fan back to normal again. Any advice please help! thanks

tracythuydo - Yanıt

What brand HD did you pull out and what brand HD did you put in?

Scott Dingle -

Use ssdfanctrl app

echevarriam79 -

I just successfully replace the original 1TB Seagate drive with a 480GB OWC SSD drive. It's nice and speedy now, but there was no place to plug in the HD thermal sensor on the SSD, so I just left it off for now. The fans are running full speed, so clearly I need to do something with the cable. Any thoughts?

wheelieking - Yanıt

I just wanted to add that I actually replaced the drive without steps 6 to 10. Once the display could be lifted up, even without pressure on cables, I had enough room to remove the drive. The fragile connectors were something I prefer not to deal with anyway !

Mark - Yanıt

Success! Everything went fine but I have to agree with Mark's comment from 12/1/2014 in that you can save a lot of time and misery by removing the vertical sync cable in step 5 and then jumping to step 10. I realized this when I found myself reaching back into the cavity, over and past the HD, to unplug the display data cable that was harder to reach than the HD itself. I found the perfect prop to hold the monitor up that gives max height without strain on cables is the box that the suction cups are packed in. Remove the 3 plugs on the HD and hold-down 2 screws and it's out.

joeburch - Yanıt

Excellent guide. Replaced my failing seagate 1tb with a 2tb from ifixit as I didn't want to do the external sensor approach. All was easy and effective. Some of the connectors were scary only in fear of tearing wires rather than applying removal pressure to just the connectors. First time restoring from TimeMachine too.

ek99 - Yanıt

I ordered this model of iMac with the stock 256GB SSD as well as a 1TB HDD. I've replaced the HDD easily (thanks to this guide!) but try as I might I can't seem to find any guides anywhere as to how to get to the original SSD and whether that can be replaced by a standard Samsung 850 or whether there are thermal connectors as well...

Does anyone know?

Thanks! :D

acarneiro - Yanıt

No complaints, easy enough. I recommend using small cardboard boxes to hold the screen up at a 30° angle so you can work with both hands

Note, newer technology cells and iMac solid-state adapter bracket, you could easily put a 500 GB or terabyte solid-state in your iMac for zoom zoom time

Kevin McCartney - Yanıt

I just installed an 480GB SSD and I get a flashing folder with a question mark in it. I'm lost.

desinit86 - Yanıt

you need to format the drive first :) hold Command + R when it boots and run disk utility and partition the drive to Mac OSX Journaled, reboot and install.

schietkop -

Diese Anleitung ist hervorragend !!!

Ich habe bereits meinen Mac vor 2 Jahren auf SSD umgerüstet und mittlerweile mehrere andere Geräte von Freunden und Bekannten, die den Mut hatten. ;o)

Hält man sich strikt an diese Anleitung und benutzt einen HDD-Adapter für die SSD, ist es ein Kinderspiel!!!!

mikemarquardt - Yanıt

I just installed a Seagate ST3000DM001, and I have the fast fan issue, so I took it all part again, and checked for another connector for the drive, and there are none not being used. I put everything back together, and did an SMC reset, and it's still running fast.

1) What could be missing? The existing drive was a Seagate ST31000528AS, and had no extra temperature sensors on it, and no other wiring.

2) Is it the drive? Is it incompatible in some way?

While having it open again, I checked for any other connections that might have been removed, or loosened, and found none. I guess it's not hurting anything running fast, but it would be nice to figure out what's causing it. Thanks!

RobCow - Yanıt

Install Macs Fan Control

Olivier Deschamps -

Excellent instructions. I just replaced my HDD w/o any issues. The instructions were clear and the pictures helped immensely. Thank you!!

anievesjr - Yanıt

Great guide!! I just upgraded my mid-2010 27" imac to 20gb of RAM and an SSD. I then tried to plug the old 1tb HD (Seagate) to an external usb case for 3.5" HDs, but the drive does not spin up at all.... The case is definitely functional since it operates now with another HD connected to it...I have not tried a second case, since i do not have any... any ideas why the HD is failing?

Vassalos Evangelos - Yanıt

Did you plug it on the keyboard or straight from the computer ?

Olivier Deschamps -

Hi, i plugged it directly to the imac... i think the case can not power up the drive... Tomorrow a friend of . mine will drop off his case to try with that ...

Vassalos Evangelos - Yanıt

case solved!! it was the case... changing the case fixed the problem!!

Vassalos Evangelos - Yanıt

Great guide. I replaced my failed Seagate 1Tb (factory installed as second drive) with a new Seagate FireCuda 2Tb. By choosing another Seagate I was able to simply plug the existing heat sensor cable on to the new drive and everything works perfectly. No fan issues, no extra software required. Time Machine has restored about 750Gb overnight, and everything is back to normal

Simon Young - Yanıt

I had previously added a 256Gb SSD to the OEM WD1001FALS. Heat issues started recently so swapped in a WD2003FZEX 2tb for the OEM 1tb WD. Because cracking the system is the hardest part, I also swapped out power supplies with one from iFixIt.

On reboot everything else is fine but it doesn't see the WD2003FZEX drive. Tried the cmd-r, the cmd-opt-p-r, and other resetting options with no luck. Cracked open the system again and confirmed the HHD cables are all in right. Still nothing.

Internal SSD boot drive: Fine.

External connectivity and everything else: Fine.

I had pre-formatted the HHD using an external USB cradle and copied my data over in advance of the swap (the OEM HHD was being used for data and large apps not for boot). So I know it was working.

onethumb - Yanıt

I also used disk utility to see if I might be able to reformat the new drive now that it's internal. DU didn't see it either.

onethumb -

Problem solved! Swapped out the new WD 2Tb HDD and put in a new Samsung 850 Evo SSD. Once buttoned up, the drive was seen and MacOS initialized it without a problem. Data is now being moved from the new WD 2Tb HDD that I put into a USB cradle. It as an external drive but the EMC2390 doesn't like it internally because it's SATA III with 6Gb throughput.

Be advised. The guide above says that as long as you stick with the same manufacture, it will work. 7 years later, that is no longer always true. Make sure the SATA versions match up too.

onethumb -

If I replace the HD, my seagate failed, how do I install the OS?

Rob Wayman - Yanıt

Did you format the drive before installing? I like to use an internal hard drive enclosure prior to installing that way I can format it.

Angel Araiza -

when changing to an SSD: you just need to leave the thermal sensor cable unattached! then the fans will go crazy at first - then install ssdfanctrl app

(as mentioned by echevarriam79) and that's it! worked like a charm! the ssdfanctrl app is really helpful - it worked flawless on sierra 10.12.4

mactrix.at - Yanıt

you could also jump the thermal sensor connector with a piece of wire (https://yktoo.com/en/blog/post/231)

Eric Hew -

Thanks for simple to use instructions, I'm going to install a 3.5" SSHD into my 2010 27" iMac. Do I need any extra SATA cables or anything besides the tools and hard drive?

Angel Araiza - Yanıt

Hello! I just installed a Seagate 1TB Firecuda SSHD in my 2010 iMac. All was going well, but when I went to boot it up by pressing Control R,or Option, I kept getting the grey folder ? Icon.

Responses on here say the hardsrive needs to be formatted but like I said, even after holding these keys nothing works. I also made a bootable external drive and tried to run off of that.... was essentially installing an operating system from the external to the Firecuda. But it did not recognize it....

Marc - Yanıt

Great guide. I replaced my failed Seagate 1Tb (factory installed) with a new Seagate 1Tb. In the past I added an SSD replacing the optical drive. By choosing another Seagate I was able to simply plug the existing heat sensor cable on to the new drive and everything works perfectly. No fan issues. You can save a lot of time by removing the vertical sync cable in step 5 and then jumping to step 10 (see Mark's comment from 12/1/2014)

Alessandro De Chiara - Yanıt

I though I had done my research before buying the replacement hard drive. My iMac is EMC:2390 and I bought the Seagate Barracuda ST 1000DM010. The heat sensor connector is too big to fit onto the new drive. It is a square 6 pin connector and the pins on the  new drive are only 4 flat so I cant plug the temp connector in. Does anyone know why I have this problem? I have rechecked the parts required for my replacement on this site and it states for the EMC 2390 I can use the Seagate ST 1000DM010.

Mick Mc Carthy - Yanıt

I’m having that exact same problem. Any luck? Did you use the two other plugs without thermal plug to see if it will work?

Thomas A Losito -

The right question is how to fix it rather than why, don’t you think ? Try Macs Fan Control, it should be OK.

Olivier Deschamps - Yanıt

Great guide, thanks. I also skipped the steps 6..9. The display could be lifted so far that I was able to insert a DVD case to keep it up.

I then replaced my WD hdd with a SEAGATE SSHD ST1000DX002 and shortend the temp sensor cable. As I thought it will reflect in the system as 0°C.

After 8h of restore from a USB2-external HDD the software SSD-Fancontrol showed me a temp reading of 47°C. Also after some hours of hibernation (sleep mode) the temp showed 22°C (room temp). So it seams to work.

How is that possible without the temp sensor cable connected to the disk?

Sternspechtler - Yanıt

I had a dead drive and followed this guide and ordered the same brand HDD as the original. The issue I am running into now is that when I access internet recovery mode, the new onboard HDD is not recognized in Disk Utility. Is there any advice on where to go from here. I opened the iMac back up, and reseated all the connections, bu still no disk.

Kurtis Stadsvold - Yanıt

See my comment below - I wonder if you have the same issue I did? The version of Disk Utility that’s bundled with OS X 10.13 was unable to see my new drive - although an earlier version was able to.

Mike D. -

Are you sure the new HDD is OK ?

Olivier Deschamps - Yanıt

Very helpful guide - I ran into a maddening snafu with my new drive which I’ll describe in case anyone else has the same problem. In short, after installing the new drive (2 TB Seagate Barracuda, the recommended Seagate replacement drive from iFixit), Disk Utility running on a OS X 10.13 installer USB drive could not see the device (with “show all devices selected”). I was afraid that this was the SATA III issue mentioned in an earlier comment, but after a brief existential crisis, I tried booting from an OS X 10.10 USB installer instead (with the older, better version of Disk Utility). This old version of Disk Utility saw the new device, and after formatting the drive, I booted again from my 10.13 installer, and this time Disk Utility could see the device, allowing me to proceed with my installation of OS X 10.13. Everything seems to be working great, now.

Mike D. - Yanıt

For the 2 TB SSD Hybrid 3.5" Hard Drive, can I use the newer model Seagate Firecuda ST2000DX002 (http://a.co/fpzD8Ik) instead of ST2000DX001?

Brian - Yanıt

I plan to swap out the HDD with SSD. Do I need some kind of SSD bracket for this? Thanks.

Paul H - Yanıt

Hello, I recently purchased the 1tb ssd upgrade for this iMac. I’m in the process of installing the new drive but come to a bump in the road. The old drive has a 6 pin thermal connector, the new ssd only has a flat 4 pin connector. What should I do?

Thomas A Losito - Yanıt

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