Tehlike
Tehlikeli Olma Potansiyeli Var
Bu talimat doğru şekilde uygulanmazsa yaralanma meydana gelebilir. Dikkatli olun ve tüm uyarıları takip edin.
Tehlike

Giriş

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Yanıt

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - Yanıt

Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - Yanıt

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Yanıt

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Yanıt

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Yorum Ekle

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Yorum Ekle

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Yorum Ekle

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Yorum Ekle

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

Yorum Ekle

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Yanıt

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Yanıt

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - Yanıt

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4" (6mm).
  • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4" (6mm).

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
  • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

  • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Yorum Ekle

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
  • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Yorum Ekle

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
  • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Yorum Ekle

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Yorum Ekle

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Yorum Ekle

Insert the card back into the top left corner. Insert the card back into the top left corner.
  • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Yorum Ekle

Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables. With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
  • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - Yanıt

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Yanıt

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Yanıt

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - Yanıt

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Disconnect the display data cable. This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Yanıt

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Yanıt

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Yanıt

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - Yanıt

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Lionheart -

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Yanıt

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Yanıt

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Yanıt

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - Yanıt

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - Yanıt

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Yanıt

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Yanıt

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Yanıt

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - Yanıt

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - Yanıt

Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

Yorum Ekle

If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.
  • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

    • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

    • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

Yorum Ekle

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

Yorum Ekle

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

johann beda - Yanıt

Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket. De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.
  • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

  • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Yanıt

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Yanıt

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Yanıt

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5"). Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").
  • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

Yorum Ekle

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
  • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Yorum Ekle

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker. Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
  • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Yanıt

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
  • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Yorum Ekle

Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
  • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Yanıt

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Yanıt

Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

lamajr - Yanıt

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together. Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left. Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
  • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

  • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

  • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

Walter Hayden - Yanıt

Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

clinton - Yanıt

Remove the left hard drive bracket. Remove the left hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - Yanıt

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - Yanıt

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - Yanıt

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):
  • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

    • Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

    • Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

Morgan Crossley - Yanıt

Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

smudge -

My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81PjGv8B...

lamajr - Yanıt

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
  • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

  • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

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Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board. Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - Yanıt

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - Yanıt

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - Yanıt

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - Yanıt

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector. Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

  • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6 başka kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Bir Yorum

Excellent guide. One note; The screw holes in the speakers have rubber isolators, so be careful when tightening those screws during reassembly.

SHANE CLINE - Yanıt

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