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Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery and give your iPad new life. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
If you have ANY cracks FOR SURE do the tape. I would also make sure to wear safety glasses as it can fly all over even with the tape. And do it somewhere that you don't mind tiny glass shards going everywhere. I had one 3 inch crack in the glass in the lower right corner and it started spidering. The plastic pics don't work once well once they hit a broken point in the glass so you better have a lot of heat to loosen the adhesive, or you end up using an exacto knife to get around the cracked spots.
On a few occasions I had an unexpected pop as the glass shattered and little shards struck me in the face. I had taped the surface but pieces at the edge still managed to break free. My advice: definitely wear the safety glasses, and definitely tape the entire glass surface.
Echo jesseokerlund's comments that you will have glass flying. I made the mistake of doing the repair at my kitchen table and had a lot of cleanup to do. The job would be much easier if there was no broken glass, and the hardest part is where the glass is broken right next to the bezel. I used the metal spudger to work those pieces free, but it takes some time.
+ 1 on the safety glass, I almost got hurt while doing this.
I followed all the safety precautions mentioned: tape, safety glasses… The best advice I saw on this is to put the iPad in the sun for a few minutes. I placed mine on the windshield of my car in direct sunlight for about 5 minutes. I also used the iOpener to keep heat on the edges I wasn’t working on. I was able to easily remove the glass without any shards flying in about 30-40 minutes total. Great advice and safest way I’ve seen to remove broken glass.
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Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
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Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!
This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!
Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.
Vatevaaa -
I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.
I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !
This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!
Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.
olafgoy -
I had some issues after replacing this cable.
Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.
I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.
I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.
Now I'm back to full functionality!
me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?
Zadd -
Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!
I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!
Have not attempted this repair on my wife's iPad 2, but is there a reason that you put the iOpener on top of the device rather than putting the device on top of the iOpener? After all, heat rises.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.
Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.
There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)
The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.
It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.
Here are some tips I learned while doing it:
- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.
- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it
- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad
- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive
- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D
Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!
Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.
Wish I would have seen your comment before I went through it. Switched to a razor blade and that helped for sure. Thought about a hair dryer as well but stuck with the micro heating tool. Probably should have done the dryer. :-/
Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.
I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!
I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.
John -
It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape
Odus182 -
Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.
My plastic opening tool broke in no time flat. Perhaps I was pressing down too hard and not wiggling it enough. But for me I found that the metal spudger was the best tool for the job. I was able to wiggle it while slowly prying up the glass and once it was under the surface of the glass I was able to work it along the edge quite easily. I saw that some people used a razor blade but I would be afraid the blade would break. The metal spudger was just thin enough to do the job well.
!!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!
I have found that using these plastic picks, spudgers and edge tools are ineffective as tools for inserting or creating a gap and glue separation action.
They are just too soft and too thick for this, causing cracks and not able to reach underneath without causing stresses.
After heating the adhesive with a heat gun (and using cardboard to shield the lcd screen) I have been using a metal round headed scalpel to insert between the glass and bezel, and to very carefully use as an adhesive separation tool at a very oblique angle so as to miss any sensitive cables or components.
Also, instead of this iTool heating pad and a microwave, they should create an electrically heated shaped pad, this would avoid the constant cooling and reheating and maintain the right temperature.
The iOpener works fine, I'm not sure what y'all are talking about. To be fair, you have to press the iOpener into the iPad in order for it to work, which isn't explained well in this tutorial. Wear heat-resistant gloves when you do this, the center portion of the iOpener gets VERY hot. I use a pair of gloves from ACE Hardware. While it takes a bit more effort with the picks, I was able to heat up one side of the iPad, then seperate the adhesive with the picks the rest of the way through.
I do not recommend using the little blue tool they show above, the part you're supposed to wedge in is way too thick. I use the Jimmy and some opening picks.
Third image is slightly misleading, you want to go about a centimeter below the volume button.
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Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.
This visual is helpful. It would be great also to have a diagram of the top of the ipad, marked with "top," "bottom," "left," "right," and then an arrow pointing to each of the problematic areas, such as wifi cable, digitizer cable, etc. It would be easier to see the whole schematic while working rather than scrolling through the instructions and trying to visualize each piece separately. Good to see where to be careful...
!!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!
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Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.
My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.
I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.
I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.
Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.
I found that using a scraper blade was the easiest way to get under the glass, both for broken and unbroken areas.
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Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.
It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.
I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.
Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.
Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!
I found that the adhesive could be separated when the pick or spudger was in at a depth of between 1/4" (6.4 mm) and 3/8" (9.5 mm). You can always go back and work it in deeper if you are having trouble separating.
Yoh but this is not so simple of your screen is shattered to the edges. Basically I had to lift, shatter more, and then pick off the splintered glass with tweezers bit by bit. Patience is a virtue here. I gave up on saving the adhesive and used it to help remove the splinters. I basically removed the edges of the iPad like that and then lift glass off. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. I would be blind now if I didn’t. wifi antenna -Go slow make sure it’s hot +check what you are doing in the crack. Remove all splinters fromiPad when it’s open. Clean LCD with a microfibre cloth and inside of your new digitizer. When I first reassembled, the home button didn’t work. I reopened and made sure the two gold connectors align with the two spikes on the body. I placed the home button board face down onto the connector spikes with adhesive on the other side, then lowered the digitiser onto it so the board would stick to the digitiser. Notes: forget plastic spudger they’re only place holders, I used a blade knife and metal Spudgers
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While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.
I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.
I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.
Why not work in reverse to the top edge, and back around to the area where that cable may be unsecured? Haven't don't an iPad (yet, staring one in the face right now) but that would be my alternative so the screen is mostly loose and you could possibly see the cable looking from the now open left side of the glass?
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You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.
I cut through my wifi cable partially, but it still works (surprisingly). I'd recommend staying well clear of this with the pick. When you go to lift the screen (future step, NOT NOW), use a really good light, start to lift the glass slightly at the corner and you will be able to see the cable. Then you can heat it more and watch the cable as you pull through the adhesive there making sure your not catching the cable.
If you heat the sides and top, releasing the adhesive, you can peel the broken glass front panel up from the body and with a little force the bottom comes loose. This avoids working around and damaging the Wi-Fi Antennae.
I know it is hard to tell from the photo, but the Wi-Fi antenna is kind of like a flap that opens on the right and is attached on the left. So if you use a pick to slide from right to left, the pick might slide under the flap and then sever how it is attached. When I had my pick just to the right of where the Wi-Fi antenna is, I was able to twist my pick a little (like you are tightening a screw) and pry the screen up where the antenna is located. Then I just moved my pick to the left of the antenna and could continue loosening the screen.
Irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna is nearly unavoidable, but this is not the end of the world since you can pick up a perfectly fine replacement on-line for a few bucks. Many digitizer screen replacement kits include a new WiFi antenna and new bezel since removing the screen without damage to these is also nearly impossible. If your iPad is old enough to need a new battery, and you plan on keeping it thru at least another battery's expected life span, then I would plan on replacing the digitizer screen, bezel, and WiFi antenna as part of the battery replacement. The battery is going to be the most expensive of the set, say around $15 (US), and adding the other three will only add about another $15 (check the prices in ebay, amazon, etc.). Removing the screen often results in damage to the on/off and volume control cable since it too runs along the upper right hand edge of the base right under the screen. If you cut thru this then add another $1 to replace it too.
Based on my experience just (nearly) completing this job on an iPad 2, CDMA, is that the trickiest step is reconnecting the three CDMA antenna cables on the underside of the CDMA chip that is part of the logic board assembly. These are nearly microscopic button connectors (maybe 0.5 mm in diameter). I needed 8X magnification glasses, very bright light, tweezers, and incredible luck to get these reattached. They pop off no problem, but getting them positioned to apply pop-on force takes a LOT of patients! Maybe someone knows a trick to doing this? There’s a similar connector on the WiFi cable but the chip it attaches to can be removed from the logic board so you’re able to manage positioning them interdependently. The CDMA chip is attached (soldered?) to the logic board and the three button connectors are on the underside, and pretty close to one another, so getting all THREE attached and then the logic board in place is a miracle.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.
Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.
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Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.
My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.
Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.
Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step
I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.
It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.
I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?
A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.
I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.
Another lesson learned while removing the WiFi antenna. The photo shows the iPad laying face up on the table, but to see what you’re doing when detaching the antenna you ‘re better off with the iPad edge up so you can see how the antenna is attached. The antenna is very, very easily broken. To be honest, it’s a lot easier to replace a broken antenna than to try to pry it loose.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.
Also once it is unattached from the front panel, if the antennas adhesive touches the glass again it can re-adhere to front panel and may rip apart after all. Keep a close eye on it or leave a pick or card in there to prevent it from re-sticking.
Ordering a replacement antenna to anticipate the one you will brake(I should say shred) is probably your smartest move to have a successful repair
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Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.
This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.
There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...
+1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.
The GSM component is glued to the screen with different adhesive (more like glue). I managed to not damage this but it was really tricky. The guitar pick is too thick and weak to release this from the screen. Id recommend you wait until you lift the glass (future step, NOT NOW). Then, with a good light you'll see the white plastic adhered to the glass. A thin metal pick or exacto is needed to patiently cut & pry your way through the adhesive. Careful of the camera as your pulling in that direction.
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Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) 10 mm to prevent damaging the digitizer.
This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.
There is an error in the red text in this step. It says ‘The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad’. The next sentence says .. ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.. This will slice and ruin that cable. The last sentence should read ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~1.75" from the bottom of the iPad.’ so you stop cutting glue before you get to the digitizer cable.
@Jenny & @dleimonis - you can buy the digitizer and new cable by itself if you do not need an LCD also. They are separate parts.
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Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.
If your screen is broken or shattered there are no worries with the digitizer cable, It is all on the new screen.
Exactly. I purposely severed mine as it was a complete screen replacement and made the LCD removal easier.
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Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.
Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.
I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.
At this point it is a good idea to get the packing tape back out and wrap it around 2 or 3 of your fingers making a circle with the sticky on the outside. Make it loose enough you can place your fingers on the table surface to the side and pull your fingers out. When you remove all the tiny parts/screws in the next steps put them on top of the tape so you know exactly where they are when you need them
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Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.
Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.
Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.
You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]
Rany -
In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.
Very good suggestion. It worked like a charm.
where is the connecotr for home button at the ipad 3....i have nothin where i can plug in the flex cable comin from the button
Go slowly as you lift up the glass and be sure that you are not tearing a ribbon cable. When I lifted the glass the digitizer cable was torn and unusable. Perhaps I had cut it with the pick/spudger but it tore completely off when I lifted the glass. Good thing I had purchased the full front panel assembly with the digitizer (IF116-018-3).
When reassembling I used canned air to blow off dust on the LCD before closing it up.
You can use a clean soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush to brush off the LCD.
I like how the pictures show an intact screen being removed (although the one in step 4 has a couple of cracks in). I don’t know if anyone would have the luxury of being able to remove a screen in one piece, the ipads I've fixed have been completely smashed pretty much all the way around the outside of the lcd underneath. I used this guide to know where to watch for cables etc - very helpful. I end up using a window scraper/razor to scrape off the glass shards/adhesive around the edge. Glass shards/dust all over the lcd is easy enough to get off but cleaning the lcd after that is a real pain. Does anyone have any suggestions how to clean the lcd properly?
When reassembling the glass, align the camera first. On the back of the glass there are two pins on the metal camera frame.
Align them to the camera first, in order to avoid to get a ‘bulge’ visible on the glass or on the back of the iPad.
+1 to Luca’s comment. This deserves a RED NOTE for reassembly. I probably just destroyed my new wifi antenna due to not having a reassembly call out for alignment of the screen. Had to pry things back apart and wifi antenna looks like it may have bit the dust. So this is a VERY important bit to know for a first timer.
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Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
It would be good to see how reassembling.
Yes, or at least show where the adhesive parts go
There is a separate guide for this:
iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2415 Front Panel Adhesive Strips Replacement
use the same way in reverse mode!!
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.
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Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.
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Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.
After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?
When reassembling, don’t remove the adhesive strip until you’re sure the new cable is inserted correctly and locked in place. Place the LCD panel inside the case, and the screen inside the bezel, turn on the iPad. If you can drag an icon across the screen, from top to bottom, left to right, your screen is correctly installed and you can proceed removing the adhesive.
After I replaced the digitizer the volume button the side of my ipad will go down but not back up and it’s not powering off. Any ideas why this is happening?
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Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.
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While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
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Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.
It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.
random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.
would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
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Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.
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Pull the display data cable out of its socket.
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Remove the following screws:
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Two 2.1 mm Phillips screws securing one of two metal brackets to the rear case.
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One 2.6 mm Phillips screw securing the logic board to the rear case.
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Remove the metal bracket from the rear case.
i ordered the IPAD 2 BATTERY KIT (IF110-014-3 ) assuming ill have everything i need but went over this guide i am not sure if i have the screw driver bits 2.1mm and 2.6mm to use on this step. am i correct?
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
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Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad just right of center (the side opposite the rear facing camera). Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Move the iOpener to the left edge (the side with the rear facing camera) of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the bottom battery cell and the rear case.
It is much easier to use dental floss to cut the batteries lose. This way you don't risk to bend the batteries.
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Lift and gently remove the battery assembly from the case.
Part 1: The 66 steps were well done, but they describe only about the first 1/3 of the effort. The “conclusion” states: “To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.”
Useless #1 - “…use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide…” I tried (I have a 2560) but the guide was for an entirely different set of strips than the ones iFixit is selling in June 2019.
Useless #2 - There was no reference to ANY guide on how to remove adhesive. I searched hard. There was some stuff from users on the forum, but NO GUIDE on this CRITICAL aspect of iPad repair. Figured out a process myself (FIRST peel off the tape from the glass, then wet remaining adhesiveIPA saturated Q-tips, use sharp edged opening tool to scrape up the thick stuff while it’s still wet, and then use IPA-wetted 1” square cotton flannel rifle bore patches for the final cleanup).
(more to come)
Part 2: Useless #3 - “Follow directions in reverse.” Nope - the vast majority of the 66 steps involve how to cut through the adhesive strips. You can’t reverse that. The (fairly few) reversible steps involve removing screws/brackets and disconnecting cables. Even there, here are two critical oversights on reassembly:
- (A) INSTALLING THE BATTERY: The new battery positioning is very sensitive. Use the plastic sheet you peeled off the glue strips under the battery, with maybe 1/2” of adhesive poking past it on the connector side. Set the battery connector on its post, then align the two similar opposite-side battery edges as close to perfectly parallel as possible to the housing before pushing down their connector-side edges, then align the third battery section to the first two and push down on the connector edge to lock in its orientation. Then slide the plastic out and smoothly push down on the rest of the adhesive strips, working form the connector edge to the housing edge.
(more to come)
Part 3: - (B) FINAL ASSEMBLY OF LED PLATE AND GLASS/DIGITIZER — You have to be VERY careful in the installation sequence of the front glass/digitizer and LED plate. Before this step, (a) install the Bezel (I used the spudger’s point to push it down and sideways into the outer lip, then the flat of the spudger to adhere the flat 1/8”/3 mm base of the bezel), then (b) install the adhesive strips to the perfectly clean back side edges of the glass/digitizer, leaving only the blue peel-off protectors in place. Note: On the strip around the front-facing camera, the thin center part goes INSIDE the cameras, not along the outside edge! Painful lesson learned - do as I say, not as I did!)
(more to come)
Part 4: - Then: Connect the LED plate first, lay it open like a book, then CAREFULLY slide the glass/digitizer under it from the bottom, so that its flex cable slides into position. In this and ALL following steps, take GREAT CARE to (a) not to touch the digitizer or LED surfaces with your fingers (or anything else contaminated) and (B) Not to let either surface’s edge stuff to scratch the other surface. I used an old, well (and freshly-) washed hand towel for protection. (Again, Painful lesson learned - do as I say, not as I did!)
- Gently lower the LED plate into place and LOOSELY install the two far screws, away from the pivot edge, and prop the sharp opener tool under the lower corner of the “hinge) of the LED plate, to raise it about 3/8”/ 8 mm above the rear housing’s edge.
Part 5: - Lift up the glass/digitizer to vertical (for the ENTIRE rest of this step) and using the tip of the spudger, carefully work the loop of the digitizer’s flex cable UNDER THE LED PLATE so that only 1/8”/ 3 mm) is hanging out of the gap, then remove the opener tool, drop the LED plate down onto its four contact points, and finish installing and tighten all four screws.
- Now, here’s the tricky part. You have to hold up the LED plate vertical with one hand, while you remove the blue peel-off protectors from the glass/digitizer with your other two hands. My failure while doing this was to unknowingly brush/touch my hand or arm across the digitizer surface, leaving a large smear that I didn’t see until the assembly was complete. Sigh.
- Keeping the glass/digitizer vertical, use canned air to blow off any dust particles from the LED and digitizer surfaces.
(more to come)
Part 6 (final): Exclusive of the adhesive removal, the whole disassembly/reassembly effort (first try on an iPad) took me about 3 hours. The adhesive removal took another 3 hours before hitting on the , but only about 1-1/2 hours after I developed the technique above.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.
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Nicked (Cut) the Touchscreen cable, Wi-Fi Cable, (Power/ Lock/ Camera) Cable - taking the screen off. All I was trying to do is replace the battery. It was so cheep, I should have purchased items 2 & 3, new screen seam, as spares when attempting the repair to avoid multiple shipping delays. As far as my unbroken screen which I destroyed, I used a razor blade but went in more than 4mm, watch out for that. A difficult time consuming repair. Saying that, without ifixit.com, I would have been paddling up a creek, so special thanks to them for making the repair even possible.
