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Use this guide to replace the home button in a 12.9" iPad Pro.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
Aletler
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
can i use just ordinary microwave???
If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
Yes, as does a heat gun.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.
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After letting the adhesive soften, insert a halberd spudger into the iPad next to the opening pick.
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Cut the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.
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Continue to slide the halberd spudger back and forth to ensure most of the adhesive is separated.
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Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera.
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After letting the adhesive soften, insert the blade of your halberd spudger into the iPad above the opening pick.
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Cut the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad towards the front-facing camera using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.
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Once the front panel is adequately heated, insert the blade of a halberd spudger next to the opening pick from the previous step.
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Slide the blade along the top edge of the iPad, stopping before reaching the front-facing camera.
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If necessary, reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften before reinserting the blade of the halberd spudger.
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Insert the blade of the halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera, on the opposite side of the opening pick.
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Continue to slide the blade of the halberd spudger to the upper right corner of the iPad.
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Return to step 5 of this guide and ensure the thick portions of adhesive are adequately separated from the display assembly. If they are, continue with this step. Otherwise, slice the adhesive to break it up until the display assembly is freed.
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Lift up the upper edge of the display and slide it towards the front-facing camera to access the iPads internal components.
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To disconnect the battery:
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First, securely prop up the display so that it won't fall or strain the display cables while you work.
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Then, remove the nine Phillips screws securing the logic board EMI shield:
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Eight 1.2 mm screws
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One 2.4 mm screw
Middle left, look at the 2 connecting ribbon wires as what I’m looking at in my hand is that ones L shaped with the 2 ports male and the cracked screen has different pins and in not seating properly?
So my brother and I were connecting the ribbon cables and we totally forgot to put the plastic tool back in which separates the battery. There was a spark and when we got everything back together the touch screen wasn’t fuctioning. So we definitely messed that up. Is there a component that we can replace to fix that? Or did we totally destroy this iPad?
You have to have it microsoldered to fix it. You can take it somewhere locally or send it off to get it done.
I forgot to disconnect the battery. I have not put my new screen back. Is it too late ( is my touchscreen function for sure damaged now)? If so, what can I do? I have disconnected and insulated the battery now…but is it too late?
Yes is the answer. Keep an insulator under the battery connector. Don’t skip step 26-29 before removing or installing display connectors.
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Remove the display assembly.
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Be sure to remove all remaining adhesive from the iPad's enclosure, and install fresh pre-cut adhesive strips when reassembling your iPad.
Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).
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Use an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the cable before you pry it up.
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Starting from the ZIF connector, use the blade on a halberd spudger or the edge of an opening pick to separate the home button cable from the adhesive holding it in place. Stop when you reach the home button.
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Gently pry off the home button cover by inserting the hook of a halberd spudger or the flat edge of a regular spudger between the cover and the LCD, and gently prying towards the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Remove the home button bracket.
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Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue as you can, then clean it with acetone or high-concentration (90% or greater) isopropyl alcohol.
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Secure the bracket with hot-melt glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.
Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing. To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing. To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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Yes. If you take the iPad apart most of the adhesive on the screen won’t be usable again. You can use either the specific kit for your ipad Pro that iFixIt sells, or get a roll of “red” tape (probably between 2-5mm size) and cut out pieces for all four side of the screen. You will probably also need tape or glue (such hot glue or something like B-7000) for the home button, and the metal bracket that holds the home button, since the old adhesive tends to not work a 2nd time.
Some LCD Assemblies come with Adhesive pre-applied, simply peel and seal. :)
Otherwise, plan on running some double-sided 3M tape before commencing new LCD Assembly Installation.
TIP: B7000 Adhesive in the bottom left and right corners will help keep it in place moving forward.
Replaced LCD and reattached home button, everything works, but the home button is lose and trying to fall inside, like it's missing something that is suppose to be between the home button and the cover that sets over it under the glass. The cover is stuck to the glass, but there's enough of a gap that the home button wants to fall inside?
I have the same issue, haven’t solved it yet but here is what I’ve found so far:
The home button appears to have several pieces not just one, including: 1. black gasket, 2. white or space-grey ring (paper or plastic?) around the metal part, 3. The actual glass circle button with fingerprint feature, and 4. electronics layer behind it.
When I took the button off, and re-adhered the button, the glue or tape between No. 2 and 3. above started to separate. Not sure how to put these back together since so small.
which temperature must be used for heating? Thx
fbarletta - Yanıt
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
Fredrik -
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - Yanıt
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - Yanıt
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - Yanıt
Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.
Fletcher Carpenter - Yanıt
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - Yanıt
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - Yanıt
Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.
Esmond Pitt - Yanıt
Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?
Regards,
Cedric
Cedric VINCENT - Yanıt
My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?
Alex COLOMBANI - Yanıt
Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.
B. A. Computer Services - Yanıt
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong - Yanıt
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
Tim Feyaerts - Yanıt