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Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6s with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

  1. Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Yanıt

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Yanıt

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Yanıt

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Yanıt

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Yanıt

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Yanıt

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Yanıt

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad - Yanıt

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Yanıt

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Yanıt

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Yanıt

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Yanıt

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Yanıt

    My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.

    Jesse Fisher -

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Yanıt

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -

    NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Yanıt

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Yanıt

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: iPhone 6s Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement

    TimD -

    The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

    Cassandra Vigil - Yanıt

    To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

    - Use magnetic pad, wipeable

    - Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

    with a non-permanent marker

    - When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

    Hope that helps.

    Ulrich Janßen - Yanıt

    I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

    joelkevinjones - Yanıt

    The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

    Daniel Wolf - Yanıt

    First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

    Hoyt Smith - Yanıt

    I went through the whole procedure, replaced the battery and got the screen back on. Then the 2 pentalope screws would not go into their sockets. They sink in all the way and spin, but it appears there are no threads to grab. The screen seems to be in position since I can insert a plug into the headphone jack without trouble. Did anyone else have this problem. Using the phone now with no screws. Yikes.

    Walter Plante - Yanıt

    Hi Walter, in case you’re still dealing with this or anyone else has the same problem, check that the screw bosses on the bottom of the screen are straight and line up with the screw holes on the case. They should be at a 90° angle to the screen, but they’re easy to accidentally bend and could’ve gotten flattened against the screen.

    Adam O'Camb -

  2. Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
    • Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.

    • Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Yanıt

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Yanıt

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Yanıt

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Yanıt

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Yanıt

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Yanıt

    I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.

    Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.

    A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.

    Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).

    And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.

    Aubin -

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Yanıt

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Yanıt

  3. Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
    • Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.

    • Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

    • Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Yanıt

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Yanıt

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Yanıt

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Yanıt

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Yanıt

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Yanıt

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Yanıt

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Yanıt

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Yanıt

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Yanıt

    The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

    Karleen Smith - Yanıt

    A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

    Diana Riddle - Yanıt

    I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

    Steve - Yanıt

    I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.

    Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.

    Other inference and comment curating:

    a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;

    b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;

    c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;

    d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.

    e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.

    Aaron - Yanıt

    Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.

    And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.

    Aaron - Yanıt

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

    • Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it's slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Yanıt

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Yanıt

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Yanıt

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Yanıt

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Yanıt

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Yanıt

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Yanıt

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Yanıt

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Yanıt

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Yanıt

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Yanıt

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Yanıt

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Yanıt

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Yanıt

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Yanıt

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Yanıt

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Yanıt

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Yanıt

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Yanıt

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Yanıt

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Yanıt

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Yanıt

    Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

    James - Yanıt

    Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

    I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

    Matt Burleson - Yanıt

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Yanıt

    I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

    David Petr - Yanıt

    This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

    Cindy Clarke - Yanıt

    Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

    Nando - Yanıt

  5. There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open. Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.
    • There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

    • Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Yanıt

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Yanıt

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Yanıt

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Yanıt

  6. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.
    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Yanıt

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Yanıt

    Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.

    Trevor Snow - Yanıt

    As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

    Nando - Yanıt

  7. Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case. Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

    • Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Yanıt

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Yanıt

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Yanıt

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Yanıt

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Yanıt

  8. Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open. Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.
    • Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

    • Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

  9. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.
    • Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Yanıt

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Yanıt

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  10. Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive. Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.
    • Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

    • Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Yanıt

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Yanıt

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Yanıt

  11. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Yanıt

  12. Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge. Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
    • Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Yanıt

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Yanıt

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Yanıt

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Yanıt

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Yanıt

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Yanıt

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Yanıt

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Yanıt

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Yanıt

    EVERYONE read this comment. It is KEY.

    Also reverse order for getting screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left. Between that and this comment sandwiches back in like a cinch.

    Aaron -

    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Yanıt

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Yanıt

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Yanıt

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Yanıt

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Yanıt

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Yanıt

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Yanıt

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Yanıt

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

    Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

    Jeffrey Smith - Yanıt

    Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.

    David.

    David - Yanıt

  13. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone. Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.
    • Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Yanıt

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Yanıt

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

    The replacement battery’s connector is just slightly thicker vs the original. When I put the screen back on (also a replacement part from Ifixit) I get a blue shadow because the battery connector is putting pressure on the screen.

    steven pruchniewski - Yanıt

  14. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Yanıt

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Yanıt

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Yanıt

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Yanıt

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Yanıt

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Yanıt

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Yanıt

  15. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work. Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.
    • Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Yanıt

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Yanıt

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Yanıt

    I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.

    Diana Riddle -

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Yanıt

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  16. Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
    • Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.8 mm screw

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Yanıt

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the outer phone edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Yanıt

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Yanıt

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Yanıt

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Yanıt

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Yanıt

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the phone’s outer edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Yanıt

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Yanıt

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Yanıt

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Yanıt

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Yanıt

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Yanıt

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Yanıt

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Yanıt

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Yanıt

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Yanıt

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Yanıt

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - Yanıt

    I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

    Matt Burleson - Yanıt

  17. Remove the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - Yanıt

  18. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Yanıt

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Yanıt

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Yanıt

    For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

    Jean-François Schmitz - Yanıt

    Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

    Diana Riddle - Yanıt

  19. Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.
    • Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Yanıt

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Yanıt

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Yanıt

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Yanıt

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Yanıt

    I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

    Samuel Martin - Yanıt

    I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

    Christiaan Erkelens - Yanıt

  20. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step. Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Yanıt

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Yanıt

    My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?

    Martijn Vos -

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Yanıt

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Yanıt

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Yanıt

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Yanıt

    I mean if you follow the guide it literally says to disconnect it first. Step 15

    Nick -

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?

    Vincent Ladida - Yanıt

  21. Remove the display assembly.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Yanıt

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Yanıt

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Yanıt

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Yanıt

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Yanıt

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Yanıt

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Yanıt

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Yanıt

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Yanıt

  22. Use tweezers to peel back the tips of the two adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery. Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and/or cause a fire. Optionally, you may wish to remove the Taptic Engine at this time. It's very easy to remove and will allow better access to the adhesive strips.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tips of the two adhesive strips along the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Use your fingers or blunt tweezers. Be careful when working near the battery; puncturing a lithium-ion battery can release dangerous chemicals and/or cause a fire.

    • Optionally, you may wish to remove the Taptic Engine at this time. It's very easy to remove and will allow better access to the adhesive strips.

    Remove the Taptic Engine. It's just 2 screws and this way you have a way better angle to remove the adhesive strips.

    Derek - Yanıt

    Read step 23 before performing 24, to understand how important it is not to tear the white adhesive bits, and how to pull it gently.

    Manu - Yanıt

    I agree with removing the Taptic Engine first, before pulling on the adhesive strips. It really, really helped. As long as your iPhone6s Taptic Engine looks like the one in the picture ( wide, and almost width of the battery. Mine also had black tape over it too, for some reason). This wide Taptic Engine only has the two screws to remove - no power connector cable! ( it uses contact pins on the underside to power the Taptic Engine ).

    Brett - Yanıt

    Removing Taptic Engine is defenitly a recommendation, easy to do, and prevents damage to it during strip removal. Placing the phone 5 minutes in front of blowing laptop heatsink makes it also easier.

    Joep Willemsen - Yanıt

    Laptop Heatsink for warming the adhesive - you are my man :)

    Linus Grüne -

    that's definitely a new one to me

    Andre G. Bashore -

    By not removing the Taptic Engine, you would be making the next step twice as hard as it needs to be. This should be a mandatory step!

    Ronnie Lewis - Yanıt

    The strip edges were not visible/ accessible on my phone. In hindsight, Taptic Engine removal should have been required.

    pwesthelle - Yanıt

    Even with a four-year-old 6s, the battery adhesive came off cleanly. Keeping it at a shallow angle as possible, greatly helped by removing the Taptic engine, makes it very easy to remove the adhesives without really much effort. Do it one at a time, however; I’ve seen videos, one by iFixIt, in which more than one were pulled out simultaneously, which resulted in two of the strips breaking off.

    Family Juinio - Yanıt

    hey my battery burst into flames what do i do?

    Logan Breaux - Yanıt

    Pee on it and then throw it in the garbage.

    Joe in PA -

    I failed this final boss battle. My strips broke; even with heating. A pro tip was to use an E string from a guitar. Since we’re on virus lockdown I didn’t want to sacrifice a guitar string. I used 25# monofilament fishing line and a 2# dumbbell and slowly wound the line around the dumbbell. FYI, After reading these comments, I should have removed the haptic, but didn’t.

    jon souw - Yanıt

    removed the haptic engine but still the strips broke.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Yanıt

    It is not safe but if you are in my situation ….try a sludger to lift the battery just a bit and use a tweezer to pull out the end of the tape from under the battery and then pull it with finger

    Ahitagni Mandal -

    My battery only has one long black strip across the battery instead of two - what do I do?

    Edcaba - Yanıt

    My iPhone doesn’t have strips that come out and attack to the bottom of the battery like these do. If it has any, they’re entirely under the battery. I bought it second hand in China so I’m guessing whoever did the last replacement did it differently. Does anyone know what I can do?

    Sean Cunnion - Yanıt

    Remove the haptic engine! It’s the easiest part of the repair and gives much easier access to the adhesive.

    One of my strips came out cleanly and the other broke. I very carefully worked the edge of the battery up (with the spudger) until I could see the broken strip, then grabbed it and pulled again. It broke again—several frustrating times—until I finally got a good hold on it and it gloriously pulled free. Keep at it this way; it’s much easier than working a card under the battery, which could easily damage the display clips.

    Matt Burleson - Yanıt

    Which edge of the battery did you lift? The end or the side?

    Sean Cunnion -

    1. I am going throw in the heated rice shoulder pad thingy again here. I didn’t do it with the first one but saved me when my second adhesive snapped. Got the phone almost too hot to touch (but not to hot to hurt the phone).

    2. Parallel pull as much as possible

    3. Pull not much past the end of the phone and then cinch up and go again. Mine easily went 20 cm before freeing.

    4. Umpteenth affirmation of removing the taptic engine as standard step.

    Aaron - Yanıt

  23. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • To avoid tearing the adhesive strip, be careful not to snag it against the battery or lower components.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    Think of it as pulling off a 3M Command (tm) strip. Slow and steady.

    Thomas Benson - Yanıt

    Exactly. I thought the YouTube video of the “hard way” was funny and immediately thought of that. A slow, firm, steady pull stretches and removes it. You might have to stop and wind it around your fingers to get closer to the battery again to keep effectively pulling.

    Karleen Smith -

    removing the taptic engine makes this step a lot easier, and give you a better angle to pull the tape.

    kym thomas - Yanıt

    I agree with removing the Taptic Engine first, before pulling on the adhesive strips. It really, really helped. As long as your iPhone6s Taptic Engine looks like the one in the picture ( wide, and almost width of the battery. Mine also had black tape over it too, for some reason). This wide Taptic Engine only has the two screws to remove - no power connector cable! ( it uses contact pins on the underside to power the Taptic Engine ).

    Brett - Yanıt

    You may find removing the taptic engine helpful if one adhesive strips breaks as well, you can sometimes get hold of the remaining adhesive to start pulling again with tweezers.

    Dwayn Draper - Yanıt

    Jeez luckily i stumbled upon you guys saying about removing the taptic engine, was sweating for a minute. after removing the taptic engine i use tweezers to pull a bit out and use my fingers to pull it out. the rest is history :) thanks guys

    Evan Chao - Yanıt

    Both of my strips broke, I can’t get the battery out.

    Johnson Vue - Yanıt

    Both of mine broke as well. Make sure that TAPIT thing is out, then use the blue pry bar to pry the old battery up. Pretty soon you’ll be able to reach the tweezers under there and grab a strip. It’s pretty amazing. Once the strip starts pulling away, the whole thing zzzzips out in one piece

    Burgess Allison - Yanıt

    The absolute most difficult part. The two bands broke so I had to use the spudger and some isopropyl alcohol to pry the old battery up. It was very contorted and possibly leaking when i set it aside. Be very patient on this step!!

    skrolikowski - Yanıt

    It should be mentioned that these strips run the length of the battery, and that by pulling them, you will be allowing the battery to be removed. Also, don’t bend or break the battery since that may cause it to catch on fire or leak dangerous chemicals.

    Jason Owen - Yanıt

    As someone who never opened an iphone before, i took the advice and removed Taptic Engine FIRST before the adhesive steps, make your life easier and remove it.

    italianchick99 - Yanıt

    Removed the Taptic Engine and used the width of the tweezers to grab the white part if the strips. Don’t try removing the black part. My strips came out easy with a little patience and force. These are like the 3M Command strips.

    Russ Christy - Yanıt

    Explicit directions on how NOT to proceed when both strips remain intact would have been helpful. For example, prying out the battery from the short end is ill advised. Working the long side of the battery below the volume control is safer.

    pwesthelle - Yanıt

    hi thank u so much u hellpt a lot and it was very helpfull

    Callum Lawless - Yanıt

    Dropping 2 or 4 drops of isopropyl alcohol on the strips as I pulled made a big difference, highly recommend. It allowed the strips to slide more easily on the end of the battery as I pulled. Removing the haptic was also easy and helpful, thank you!

    Jonathan Flower - Yanıt

    I think that that the photo below is a bit misleading. Stretching the adhesive tape like that just makes it likely to break. I didn’t use any heat. Just peel the black tape off to expose the white rubbery adhesive then peel that off the battery. Hold both sides between thumb and forefinger and have your pinkie fingers braced on the edge of the phone. Start to gently pull with as little angle as possible and you can feel it start to move. As soon as it has come about 1/2” regrip next to the battery and repeat. As it gradually comes out over a few minutes it becomes easier as there is less tape left under the battery. You can tell when you get near the end as the tape width reduces until it just comes free. Repeat with the second tape and when that comes free the battery is now miraculously sitting in the phone loosely. No damage

    I couldnt believe how easy this was after reading all the comments. Do it slowly with minimal tension and dont overstretch and it will come out. I did not have to disconnect the screen.

    456eec - Yanıt

    I have always had the battery adhesive break at this step. I’ve done a good 20 iPhone battery replacements. The adhesive always snaps on me, resulting in a lot of wasted time “digging” out the old battery.

    Until today. Today I warmed the adhesive a little bit with a hairdrier, and I removed the Taptic Engine. The strips slipped out like a dream. It’s worth the extra 90 seconds of effort. I’m so happy that I had to comment here.

    Lance J - Yanıt

    This is the hardest step in replacement. Both my strips broke and had to heat and pry multiple times. Tips: (1) definitely remove the taptic, (2) don’t let it slip from your fingers while pulling, (3) pull very slowly - 1/2” at a time, (4) after 1/2”, while keeping it stretched with one hand, regrip closer to battery with second hand, (5) because it stretches, you will pull it about 8 to 10 inches or more before the full strip pulls out, but pull from as close to old battery as possible.

    Ed Hawkins - Yanıt

    my iphone 6s doesnt have those 2 strips showing. Any advise?

    Fullpo - Yanıt

    First time disassembling my 6s and both strips came off without breaking. Not sure if the idea for rolling the strips was in this guide or elsewhere, but I wrapped it around some tweezers for the first strip and then a small pencil (more symmetric) for the second strip…and pulled/rolled both rather slowly (never pulling past bottom of case). During the first go around with the tweezers, the strip started wrapping unevenly and it was pulling one side of the first strip more than the other. The sound the strip was making changed and it started becoming more difficult to remove, so I repositioned to a more symmetric part of the tweezers and it stopped being difficult. For the second strip with the small pencil, kept it slow and I didn’t have any issues. I think keeping equal force across the strip helps it not to tear, but I’m no expert.

    Nicholas Anchor - Yanıt

    just a random thought here but what about a small drill bit and drill??

    Andre G. Bashore - Yanıt

    This was my third battery replacement and the first time I successful removed both strips without breaking either of them. One thing I tried, and it seemed to work well, was to wear a thin vinyl glove on my pulling hand. That provided a really solid grip on the strip and I was able to just keep stretching until it popped free.

    Patrick Langvardt - Yanıt

    If you have used those 3M command strips, and successfully removed them from the wall without wrecking the paint, use the same technique. It’s actually kinda fun once you get the hang of it.

    Steve - Yanıt

    This is the most difficult part of the entire exercise. On my iphone6s it took 10 mins for the first unbroken strip. The second strip broke and it took about 5 hours. It still wouldn’t come. I came close to emptying out my 10 yard floss and still no luck. The only way I got it out was by feeding the underside of the battery with isopropyl alcohol 70% (I didn’t have the 90% that they recommend in this guide) and let it soak overnight. Voila. The next morning was a charm. It just came right off.

    In hindsight, I would have just soaked it lightly with isopropyl alcohol, let it rest for a couple of hours or overnight and not have to bother with any string tugging, pulling and flossing!

    pradeep bala - Yanıt

  24. Repeat for the second strip.
    • Repeat for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip to step 27.

    • If either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Do not insert the spudger in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath. Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • For alternative methods to unstick the battery, continue with the next step below.

    If you successfully remove all of the inside adhesive strip and snapped the outside adhesive then an alternative to step 25 is to start the removal from the inside edge of the battery.

    Using the pointy end of the spludger, gently place it between the battery and main board and pry it up along the edge, it will lift easily as there no adhesive on this side.

    As you lift it up you will then see the adhesive and you use the flat edge of sludger to break the adhesive off the phone.

    Work slowly along the entire length of adhesive, back and forth until it comes away easily.

    The battery will bend in the middle along the 2 cells so don't force it without breaking the adhesive as indicated in previous step.

    john racovelli - Yanıt

    Drag them off along the side of the battery instead, much easier.

    e5frog - Yanıt

    You don’t need a lot of pressure on the battery while pulling the second strip. Just enough to keep it from popping off. If you’re worried about the battery taking flight, a fingernail along the bottom is enough to keep it in place.

    lkollar - Yanıt

  25. If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
    • If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Otherwise, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

    • Then, use a plastic opening tool to gently lift the battery.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • Alternatively, a piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

    • Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

    You can also just use small screwdrivers to touch the adhesive after it breaks and then start rotating it around to get it to come out

    Geoff Potts - Yanıt

    BE SUPER CAREFUL. I just broke the volume up/down buttons and mute switch. Look at the photo on Step 26. Underneath the battery there is a tiny black ribbon cable. Doing step 25 wrong will rip that ribbon cable apart. Make sure you insert the card BELOW the volume up/down buttons!!!

    henryhsu - Yanıt

    Definitely agree with you, that photo is showing the wrong place to insert the card, right over the volume switch and ribbon cable. The card should be inserted as close the bottom of the battery as possible.

    john racovelli - Yanıt

    Zahnseide ist eine sehr sehr gute Idee, hat einwandfrei funktioniert.

    Dental floss is a very very nice way to remove the battery :)

    maiksicks - Yanıt

    I recommend removing the Taptic Engine as described in step 23 comments. It was enough to allow me access to the second strip after it ripped.

    knoxma - Yanıt

    I used a newer model heating pad instead of buying an iOpener - mainly because I had it laying around. I’ve used it successfully on two iphone battery swaps. Newer heating pads are well temperature controlled, and even the hottest setting isn’t that hot.

    Howard Capon - Yanıt

    For french user : the best option to remove the adhesive if you broke up, is to use an ID card.

    Pour les français : la meilleur option pour décoller l’adhésif si vous l’avez casser a l’étape précédente est d’utiliser une carte d’identité, car assez fine et souple pour ne pas abimer le le téléphone ou la batterie.

    viriisxp - Yanıt

    Dental floss worked like a charm.

    Jan - Yanıt

    I had to use dental floss as well, and quite a bit more force than I thought would be necessary…however it did the trick!

    Eliza Zollicoffer - Yanıt

    After a disastrous experiment at heating up a moist clean cotton dishtowel in the microwave (it didn’t flame, but it smoked), I got wise and used an electric laundry iron on a low setting and another clean dishtowel in between the back of the phone (with the battery facing down) and the iron. Using the spud carefully and an exacto knife, I was able to cut the leftover pieces of the white plastic adhesive and work it out without damaging the battery.

    Peter Brightbill - Yanıt

    It is physically impossible to use the plastic card as shown, unless the battery has already been loosened by some other method. Is the photo provided to justify the use of an extra tool?

    ffissk - Yanıt

    My adhesive strip broke. For prying the battery from the rear case, I put a thin flat plastic string under the battery from a corner of it (near the Taptic Engine). Carefully move the string upper and be patient, you will make it.

    anonymous 7644 - Yanıt

    I tried all the solutions here and none of them worked. For me I was replacing the battery which I had previously replaced, and I think the adhesive was too brittle, and very sticky.

    The solution I found was to use a 30/60° triangle ruler, I could use the top part to latch on to the adhesive and pull it out. I was also able to just push the adhesive back with it. It did cause the battery to bend quite a bit, but in the end it worked!

    Joe Clinton - Yanıt

    With scissors I cut an expired card down to fit under the battery. I have a microwaveable rice-pack which I heated for one minute, and then set the phone on that to maintain the heat. I slowly eased the card under the battery and backed off, realizing there would be build-up of loosened adhesive around the leading edge of the card. Using a spudger under the card helped me lift the battery out, and the card supported the battery, keeping it straight and safe. The rice-pack kept everything warm while I worked.

    Katherine Williams - Yanıt

    Exploded in my hand. 3/10, do not recommend

    Donkey Monkey - Yanıt

    This was the hardest part for me. I had successfully pulled out one of the adhesives, but the second one broke and the remaining part of the strip sprang back to hide itself under the battery. So, I heated the back with my hair dryer and then tried the plastic card and dental floss ideas, neither of which worked. Eventually I was able to use the blue plastic spudger to lift just the very bottom of the battery, enough to allow me to grab that remaining strip of adhesive with the tweezers, and then with my fingers. I carefully pulled on the adhesive strip again and this time it didn’t break; the battery came right out.

    Elizabeth Garcia Dominguez - Yanıt

    I have found that braided fishing line works great, if you have it, to pull beneath the battery and separate it from the adhesive and case. I use about 12 inches of 10 lb test Fireline® with 1/4-inch steel washers tied to each end for grip.

    Patrick Langvardt - Yanıt

    What has happened to this step? Photos are missing. People refer to multiple different photos but only a picture of the iopener is associated with this step for me.

    There are a enough ways to pry this out wrong that not only should 26 actually be complete with photos but should be its own separately linked outline.

    My first came out like a dream. My second with same approach tore immediately. This, Step 26, between its useless photo and many dire comments leaves people in my situation somewhat in the dark.

    Please fix this.

    Aaron - Yanıt

    DON’T bend the battery. Major hazard here that the step and most of its comments can lead to. Again this step really needs flushed out for safety sake.

    NO prying. So many places this can break something on the phone

    For me, when my second strip broke, I duly heated the back of the phone. phone had to cool a bit before I could old on it to work on it.

    Then I slid the spudger length wise under that battery at lowest angle without contacting anything to the homebutton end of the battery. and then just until I can get ahold of the white again.

    If it breaks apply more heat, try to get at the white again and the pull more slowly and evenly and smaller increments between cinching up. If it breaks again, more heat, more slowly, more evenly, smaller increments.

    Aaron - Yanıt

  26. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the ribbon cable.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a forced restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    When installing the new battery, before attaching the adhesive, first do a test fit. Note the best position so that the battery connector lands squarely on the phone socket. If you install the battery too high, you may have excess connector cable that you’ll have to creatively fold up and jam beside the battery.

    jonathanstotts - Yanıt

    I had a similar issue - “test fit” should be part of the base instructions.

    Ed Hawkins -

    ABSOLUTELY TEST FIT!!!!!!….I found that compared to the OEM battery, the the replacement battery connector is a bit longer and doesn’t seat easily in the socket without shifting the replacement battery as far LEFT as possible. I had to remove the replacement battery. It was extremely difficult and the replacement battery was flexed and started bulging so I disposed of it. I put the old one back successfully so waiting for another battery to arrive.

    Joel Nuss - Yanıt

    I can’t seem to get the connector on the new battery to click into place. I had to work a bit to align, as mentioned here, but it seems to be in the right place now. Just won’t ‘click’ and when I tried to use the cover to hold it, the connection is not stable. Any similar issues?

    Bill B - Yanıt

    I had the same issue with hard alignment of battery connector and no click. I had to remove the new battery and reposition the factory bend s that one end of the connector was not forced too high (resisting full depression into socket).

    Ed Hawkins -

    For me to achieve factory fit I had to follow a previous poster’s suggestion, which *requires removing the top case* as you will be plugging the battery back in.

    So first plug the battery. Then place the battery (dry fit!) while holding the clip firmly. Once fit is achieved, unplug the battery, continue reassembly in *exact* reverse order and plug the battery back in as the very last step.

    For me this was the only way to replicate the crease/bend that allowed the clip to stay in place.

    Aaron -

    The earlier 6s MUST HAVE the 616-00033. I have had this happen too often. People bring in their 00036 and they do not fit.

    bill - Yanıt

    Can you please elaborate a bit? Is this a battery number? Neither of these numbers appear on my replacement battery or any of the packaging that came with it. (ifixit’s battery and kit) So, if it is a battery identifier, how do I tell which one I have?

    Aaron -

    Seriously these adhesive strips should have come with the battery!!! I have the dam phone apart on my desk and now have to wait for the adhesive!!

    hlh212 - Yanıt

    I bought a display assembly kit and a battery. I didn’t realize the adhsive slips are needed but not included with stand alone battery.

    RATS.

    Now I’m phone less till the strips arrive.

    Options for batteries should be

    1) full kit, battery, tools and adhesive strips

    2) battery and adhesive strips or

    3) just battery.

    Or or at least ask, “hey, you want strips with that battery?”

    Patrick Egan - Yanıt

    I messed up on the adhesive strips and I have to wait for the new ones to come. I assembled it without adhesive and the battery doesn’t seem to move in the housing at all after everything is installed. I’m almost thinking that the adhesive was an over kill?

    Kanchana Samarasekera - Yanıt

    Three years later now. Not regrets about no adhesive?

    Aaron -

    I ordered the full kit, which came with the strips for under battery, as well as a replacement adhesive for the device’s perimeter. Great guide, installation went very smoothly!

    Both adhesive items should come with directions, for those not as savvy. I didn’t have trouble but it definitely isn’t clear. Instructions really should be included.

    Dan Knight - Yanıt

    There are detailed instructions linked in the guide for both of those things! Glad you figured it out though. :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hallo!

    Vielen vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Sie hat mir sehr geholfen! Klasse Tutorial!

    Allerdings muss ich sagen, dass mein Display am Rand verklebt war. Dies war hier leider nicht zu erkennen und erschwerte das Öffnen des Displays sehr. Ich habe ein iPhone 6s.

    Aber ansonsten TOP!

    Stefan Wenschuh - Yanıt

    Thought I did great. Opened it up okay. Battery removed okay. Installed adhesive strips and sealing gasket okay. But then THE INSTRUCTIONS STOP. So I popped the display connectors in and set the display down until it clicked into place. Great job I thought to myself! Then I looked at the counter and saw both connector covers and screws sitting there!!!! So why do the instructions just stop before you tell customers how to reassemble the %#*@ thing. I guess if I start having intermittent display problems, I'll know what the problem is. You only get three stars for this kit.

    delanman - Yanıt

    As stated in the guide: To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order. Where needed, you’ll find additional reassembly instructions on each step, marked with a reminder (push-pin) bullet.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My phone had 6 (six!) screws missing and loose inside the phone! Amazing they didn’t cause any damage. One was next to the battery, easy to replace while the battery was out. I found a few other screws slightly loose. Suggestion — check all the screws!

    Frank Demarest - Yanıt

    If you don’t have adhesive strips just use normal sellotape and make it go around the battery and fold around the back. (Would like to post a picture of how I’ve done it but can’t here...) Installation is a bit more tricky but at least you won’t have to deal with those horrible adhesive strips that break apart all the time leaving you with a 90% chance to have a battery leak in your phone for your next replacement!

    Simon Villaeys - Yanıt

    I did this repair and now my home button doesn’t seem to work!!? No response to touch and no access to touch id. Please help! What have i done?

    Brayden courtney - Yanıt

    Did follow all the instructions (the adhesive strips are a pain !), put everything back together but I forgot to recharge the battery before it went completely dead … and then impossible to recharge the phone !?!

    Umberto Do Cumbuco - Yanıt

    Tips for new battery: (1) test position before using adhesive, (2) new connector does not clip. I was *very* careful. I’ve done very small scale electronic repairs for years. However, the first two attempts were unsuccessful (had to remove the new adhesive and reposition battery. Didn’t work until I VERY CAREFULLY, repositioned the factory bends so that they did not force one end of connector too high at the socket end nearest the battery. Phone worked after doing this, but now the new battery has no adhesive.

    Ed Hawkins - Yanıt

    Worked as described in about 30 minutes, (without replacing edge adhesive). Fiddly but took my time and no problems thanks.

    Jeremy Larcombe - Yanıt

    This is a very nice kit. Decent tools, replacement perimeter sticky for screen and two strips for the battery. One thing about applying the screen sticky is to spend some time carefully removing all the black rubbery sticky, and also clean up any sticky residue left behind ( this is clear sticky that has come off the black part. I used a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol which did the job. This ensured it all goes back together snugly without any bulges.

    take your time and enjoy

    Shane - Yanıt

    I found it easy to use the Pointed Spudger end, and ‘Roll’ the Edge sealer along; It ‘Balls’ up comes away cleanly, and does not need any cleaning agent. Also, cut out square hole in the replacement film, to let the Battery cable through, tape the top end, to hold it in place, then peel back about 30mm of the Bottom Edge of the underside film, and Bed it into place; remove the temp. fixing tape; Peel off the under plastic, and carefully set the remaining gasket in place, gradually removing the top film.

    David -

    Ha, ha. How many europeans browse the .com site, see the battery adorned with nice adhesive strips, then jump to the local store site to order, and miss the note telling them that the adhesive strips are not included, and will cost an extra few dollars? Awesome.

    Chris Harvey - Yanıt

    Take note, the battery needs to be carefully positioned before you let the adhesive strips make contact. If it's not right you won't fit the battery connector in. This should be included in the installation process. A lot of comments on this already, so it is an issue to note when putting the new battery in.

    JMY 60 - Yanıt

    Definitely test-fit. For me, the replacement battery goes all the way to the left of the compartment, and just a tiny bit (maybe 1mm from the top..

    For completeness, it should tell you to peel off the cover over the adhesive before seating the battery for real, even if it’s obvious. You can squirm the battery a tiny bit after taping it down if necessary.

    lkollar - Yanıt

    Hello - I successfully replace the battery in iPhone 6S, but once powered up, the display has a vertical line down the left hand side of the screen, and the display is at time jittery. Also seeing like some ghost images of the app buttons? I did not damage the screen by what I can tell. Is there a chance one of the three ribbon connectors at the inside top is not plugged in right? They each felt like they popped in, seated right when reconnected.

    Jay Blackmon - Yanıt

    After 30 minutes of heating with a hair dryer, prying, heating etc still all I get is one corner lifted. It got so hot I had to use wooden clothespins to hold my phone while I worked. I have no idea how anyone got this adhesive to soften enough to remove the battery. Total waste of time and money at this point. And flat? in your dreams.

    Ann Mueller - Yanıt

    Yes, test fitting is very important. I laid the old battery in and out several times, looking at it from all sides, then laid the new battery in SLOWLY and deliberately.

    Matt Burleson - Yanıt

    I did it with a slight twist:

    - 1: “Dry” test fitting (keep protection on adhesive strips)

    - 2: Connect the battery connector to its socket

    Make sure that that the other above described connectors are removed,

    and that the circuit board is not touched by anything else

    to avoid short circuits

    The pricise positioning of the connector is crucial, and the test fitting showed that that was not so easy to do

    after the battery was in place (“dry” still)

    I know the reservations about connecting the battery connector to the circuit board before everything else is finished,

    but I considered it safe with the above measures in place. No guarantee. Comments welcome.

    - 3: Remove the protection from the adhesive strips carefully, with the connector in the socket

    - 4: “Slide” in the battery carefully, with the connector in the socket

    - 5: Remove battery connector from the socket and isolate it to avoid short circuit

    - 6: Continue the re-assembly as described

    Ulrich Janßen - Yanıt

    I found it easiest to first connect the battery with it in place, and then carefully rotate it up enough to remove the adhesive protectant, and then rotate back into position.

    Leon - Yanıt

    Any tips on getting the battery to clip in? Trying to do the fit test but can’t get the connector to clip. Old battery clips in fine….

    Megan Hill - Yanıt

    In my reply to Bill B.

    Aaron -

    Great kit!!! Worked perfectly. They’ve even updated it and added the battery strips pre-installed to batterys back side!!! Nice;)

    Brian Miles - Yanıt

    Everything worked well except for the suction cup for removing the display: it would not keep a seal while pulling no matter how many times I cleaned both it and the screen. I finally ended up using a larger one designed for removing the glass off of an aluminum iMac—just happened to have a hard drive installation kit from OWC waiting for me to get around to upgrading the desktop. It clicks into place and will *not* come off until you release the handle. Using that, a little heat, and a lot of patience, I was able to remove the display and continue. All of the other tools are top-notch, but the suction cup in the kit I received is of no value at all.

    Erik - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

1711 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

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Üyelik tarihi: 05-02-2015

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202 Yorum

Easy fix. I would recommend getting the adhesive for the screen, as I completely destroyed about half of it when I removed the screen.

cziebell937 - Yanıt

the adhesive strip under the battery do not use your hand to pull out, use tweezer and a stick roll it up slowly.......

luke foxy - Yanıt

That's a good idea! But on the other hand it looks a bit funny expanding it to about 1 meter ;-) - especially nice, if the owner is there watching …

Michael Gasperl -

That was actually way better than the original suggestion. If you hold the tweezer a little to the side while you roll up the adhesive, it will come off a little bit easier.

KatSeiko -

I found that instead of trying to pull the adhesive strips straight out, that by shifting the strip side to side as I pulled allowed it to “inch out” and break the bond more on a diagonal and snap out in one piece….

James Brewer -

I simply allowed my old battery to completely deplete before the new install and then used a traditional metal flat head screw driver to carefully pry it up. Worked great.

Jeremy Boles -

So Apple has this great battery replacement program, I put in my S/N and found out my phone was eligible! Great right? Except I live about 290 miles from the nearest Apple Store, and there was an authorized repair shop that was about an hour away. I called them up, found out Apple had a shortfall of inventory and that I'd have to be added to a list as the batteries would come in. A couple weeks later I get a call and find that I'd have to leave my phone there for half a day and the phone would be wiped. Rather than drive an hour so I could leave my phone there half a day I just ordered the repair kit. When it came in I opened up the phone, rather slowly I might add due to the adhesive. I took my time separating the screen and the adhesive snapped back into the frame. If you truly take your time with it and keep consistent force separating the screen with spudgers slowly and gradually you won't ruin the strips. The rest was a cakewalk, screen went back together flawlessly and you can't tell it was opened.

Mike Jacobs - Yanıt

Nice. Not completely necessary to remove front screen - but be careful if you do it this way...

goodski - Yanıt

Pardon my inability to understand but several people have said you don’t have to remove the screen to replace the battery.

How is that possible? How else do you get to the battery?

jayrudin -

I think he means disconnnect

davidvandenbossche -

Not that you don’t have to remove the screen, rather you don’t have to FULLY remove it. Taking care not to damage the cables connecting the screen to the phone, you can manage the battery replacement without removing those cables and the screen in it’s entirety.

Andrew -

@jayrudin You do ofc need to open the screen to replace the battery. The step you do not need, but is recommended; is to disconnect the screen completely. The three connector at the top right :)

Ruben Lillebø -

My advice: take out the taptic engine for better pulling out the adhesive. There are only two more screws. It's worth it.

wenago phone service - Yanıt

Totally agree with this. Removing the adhesive from underneath the battery was definitely the hardest part.

skrolikowski -

I secound this!

Ruben Lillebø -

agreed, it saved me alot of work

Jason Murawski -

Good instructions, however my screen still broke while I was trying to remove it. Off to the Apple Store I guess. Da**it.

rellimnitsuj - Yanıt

Nice steps , could you please adding assembly steps with suggestion adhesive strip or any suitable glue.

Mohammed - Yanıt

iFixit sells replacement adhesive strips for both the battery and thes screen.

Andrew -

The battery replacement is very easy but i seem to always break the adhesive tabs and end up having to either fish it out with tweezers or just using a spudger to get the battery out! Great guide!

Gadget Tech - PDX - Yanıt

I replaced the battery and now when charging it keeps shutting off. The battery connection seemed awkward. Does the battery connector click in?

Edward Marino - Yanıt

Yes, and you need to re install the plate with the two screws on top of the connector to keep the plug connected.

James Wachala -

I had the same issue. Could not get it to click and using the cover to hold it resulted in the instability to which you refer. Will try again.

Bill B -

0/2 on removing the adhesive strips (two phones that is). With the last one, I just pried (very carefully) off the entire battery using the flat edge tool. 5 min later no problem. Maybe just skip that step and go straight to prying it with the aid of heat (if desired).

Nathan Dunn - Yanıt

It takes a while to get the hang of it. I've done this procedure on 30~50 iPhones and have about a 75% success rate.

Evan Noronha -

Good instructions, Nice steps, thank you.

Osman Khalil - Yanıt

So helpful! saved me having to go to a pricey store!

Megan Lane - Yanıt

I thought that I need to warn the screen for the 6s before opening

mfq1979 - Yanıt

I put in the new battery but it just flashes the Apple logo for a couple seconds then goes away and this repeats till it dies, I charge it and the same thing happens. I have tried 3 different batteries and I don't know what else to do

Adam ben - Yanıt

Mine is the same. Did you figure it out?

wurout -

It might be the logicboard

patrik østeggen -

Very easy fix - takes 20 minutes. Just take care when you put the cables back, they can be a bit hard to "snap" into the board. Changed both battery and screen without any issues.

even.tobiesen - Yanıt

Great guide, the iOpener really helped in separating the glass and the back: the screen adhesive didn't tear apart at all. All of the tools in the repair kit worked well, applied the adhesive strips correctly on the first (and only) try, and best of all, everything went back together with no spare parts or hardware left over! Original battery had actually begun to bulge and swell slightly compared to the new replacement battery. Glad I did the swap when I did!

janus1970 - Yanıt

Sucesso, tudo conforme a descrição, Obrigado!

ebaniramelo - Yanıt

When replacing an iPhone 5 battery I noticed the battery connector has a small rectangle that fits into a rectangular Slot . I only noticed this because I looked at the underside of the connector with a magnifying glass. Does the iPhone 6s have a similar or a rectangular slot.?

Also when I replaced the iPhone 5 battery I did not remove the front. I was careful. It definitely saves time. Maybe I’ll also try with my 6s.

donald lepsch - Yanıt

Why take out the screen when the battery has absolutely nothing to do with it, nothing connected to it at least …

Hector Andrade - Yanıt

Because there is no stress on the ribbon cables if you remove the screen. You’ll be moving the phone around trying to remove the adhesive, which would introduce the possibility of damaging the ribbon connectors.

Wade -

You have to remove the screen entirely so that you can go around the rim and remove any remaining adhesive around the edge.

ophello -

Great job. I followed the steps and everything worked great. I found on step 16, removing the front panel, my phone had a 5th screw (model A1549) right in the center of the panel. Also suggest fitting to the battery into the case and aligning the plug before placing the tape strips on the battery. the connector on the battery I received was stretched out and the was way too long. i had to put two small folds in the tab(similar to what was on the original battery) which would have been more difficult if it had been taped to the case. thanks again

Art Spong - Yanıt

Then you had an iPhone 6, not a 6s.

Sam Mencimer -

This and all the guides in ifixit.com have been so easy to do. I have big sausage fingers but I am able to manage the tiny screws and ribbons. I like it when there are sections that you can skip if possible. It saves so much time and unnecessary teardown when doing many items in a day. Thanks again for making it easier for us.

William - Yanıt

Step 2 doesn’t make apparent what actually happens the adhesive strip when it “separates”. Before the procedure, I interpreted it to mean the strip could be left in place if I was careful. But after performing the procedure, it became clear to me that it’s impossible to not completely destroy the strip!

Some adhesive stays with the back panel, some stays with the front panel, a lot of it stretches out between the two. And it readily adheres to itself! Leaving it will result in thick lumps of the stuff in bad places, and preventing the phone from firmly closing.

This instruction should be edited to explain that the strip must be removed! I did this by stroking the pointed end of the spudger over it repeatedly until it balled up, then rolling this ball along the remnants of the strip to gather every bit. And it should be made clearer that by “not replacing the adhesive,” it means that the phone should be fine without ANY adhesive strip at all.

Steven Nass - Yanıt

Instructions is good and detailed. Have the battery successfully exchangeable. But take care! The detachment of the display is very sensitive. The upper right-hand corner of the display has jumped during detachment from the display. Too bad, I was very annoyed about it. I was probably a bit too rough. But just happened. Maybe I will change the display later.

It may be worth using the iSclack. The iSclack I had not. He should work really well and would have prevented what happened to me.

bz_zack - Yanıt

I agree. I have five times battery change experience. I didn't remove the front panel assembly and my repair done perfectly all.

Takehiro -

after changing battery the frontal camera did not work it gives me black screen why and what i can do?thx

arshlokh - Yanıt

Try step 19 again and do carefully .

CAUTION: When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Takehiro -

Intermittent or not charging after battery replacement? As others have said, first make sure the battery connector is seated properly. Then make sure that the metal bracket being removed in step 13 is not shorting to the top of the battery connector being disconnected in step 15. Even a tiny bit of metal exposed at the corner of the “battery connector” by accidentally scraping off a bit of the squishy pad on top will lead to unpredictable behavior if it touches the bracket. In my case, the phone would function properly and charge while the case was open on the workbench (ie before finally snapping the display down) but then stopped charging as soon as the case was squeezed tight together for final assembly. I opened it an additional two times before I found a tiny corner of exposed metal on the corner of the battery connector. A generous piece of electrical tape placed between the top of the battery connector and the bottom of the battery connector bracket prevented the short and solved the problem.

richardeburgess - Yanıt

I have changed both batteries in my two iphone 6s. One functions properly. But the other one has a problem, namely the home button doesn’t function anymore. And I mean the physical button(also touch id doesn’t function properly).

What is the problem with the second phone. I didn’t touch anywhere near the home button.

Bighead - Yanıt

Everything attached to the display (including the home button) is routed through the cables you disconnected in steps 18-20. You should probably start by re-seating those connectors. If that fails, check the cables, connectors, and sockets for damage and go from there.

Jeff Suovanen -

I followed the instructions and calibrated the new battery but now the phone keeps logging me out when I’m using it for about 1 minute and I need to log in. Is this a software issue and what could have caused it?

Sylvia - Yanıt

Pardon my inability to understand but several people have said you don’t have to remove the screen to replace the battery.

“Not completely necessary to remove front screen - but be careful if you do it this way...”

“Why take out the screen when the battery has absolutely nothing to do with it, nothing connected to it at least …”

How is that possible? How else do you get to the battery?

jayrudin - Yanıt

Correct, you have to get the display out of the way to access the battery no matter what. But, you can either open the display and leave it connected to the phone as shown here, or you can go farther and completely disconnect the display cables from the logic board, detach the display, and set it aside while you replace the battery. The first option can save a little time; you just have to use some extra care so as not to damage the display cables.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’ve had trouble with two replacement batteries for my iphone 6s, the connector will not snap into place, so I’ve had to re-install the old

battery with no problem snapping it into place. Anyone else have this problem? Any suggestions?

Linden Holderbein.

Linden Holderbein - Yanıt

Yes, I’m having the exact same problem. The connector on the new battery just doesn’t seem to fit no matter how much I coax and nudge and push. In an attempt to revert to the original worn out battery I’ve since snapped off the adhesive on the new battery. A visual inspection of the connectors reveals that they aren’t identical.

byron -

Problem identified: I was trying to install and iPhone 6 battery into an iPhone 6s; they aren’t the same connectors.

byron -

I connect new battery terminal first. And two new adhesives put on the case instead of the battery. Finally, Put new battery to correct position on the case and push it.

Takehiro - Yanıt

If using the display assembly adhesive: Make sure you properly align the display assembly adhesive when putting it on, and really stick it to the metal edges before removing the top cover. That way, if it is properly aligned, you don’t mess it up. Display assembly for this device is not necessary as it did not have water resistance to begin with. The screws and clips do an optimal job of keeping the screen attached to the display.

Erik Johnson - Yanıt

Great guide and comments. Read the guide twice and then performed the changeout in about 20 minutes. Thank you

Phillip - Yanıt

It was all pretty simple. I had one side of the battery “command strip” pull out adhesive break 1/4 of the way of pulling it out. Ended up heating it up just a bit to get underneath the battery enough to start twisting it and pulling it out the rest of the way.. I the love then command strip adhesive method! Ended up replacing the screen adhesive too.

jonathan - Yanıt

I want to get this replacement battery for iphone 6s in Pakistan how??

abdulrehman hamza - Yanıt

Very carefully followed instructions and while the adhesive removal step isnt quite clear(my old battery bended and crumpled trying to removed and got very, very hot) when I eventually put in place the new battery everything works fine except for listening to a phone call and the forward facing camera. Speaker works and rear camera works but not when I hold the phone to my ear for a call. I have to put a call on speaker to hear anything.

Perhaps I broke a cable in the assembly. I dunno. Not much of a phone when you cant hold it to your ear and make a call.

Albert Dice Man - Yanıt

Worked flawlessly on two phones, if you are not to clumsy there is no need to remove the display assembly, just prop it up against something and fix it with a rubber band. Removing the adhesive strips from underneath the battery worked 1/4, so keep something ready to heat the thing

Pigeon - Yanıt

Just finished replacing my battery and the directions are spot on. I did however have difficulty with removing the adhesive. Take it slowly and pull on the strips with a gentle force. I broke mine off and had to go the heating route which took awhile longer. A new adhesive screen gasket and battery adhesive strips came with the battery replacement kit but unlike the new battery adhesive strips I could not find a “how to” on the site for the other adhesive gasket. A link to that would be nice like there was a link to the battery adhesive.

mediayogi - Yanıt

The adhesive gasket replacement guide you’re looking for is here—it’s linked in Step 21 of this guide. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

After replacing the battery on my Iphone 6 and booting it up, it was at 1%. After charging for 30 mins, it was only at 2%. I removed the charging cable and let the phone die. Tried charging phone again and phone just refreshes white screen with apple logo and then dies (this happens over and over again).

Anyone have the same problem?

Albert Somlith - Yanıt

@asomlith Could be a defective battery. Try connecting the old battery and test to see if it charges. If that resolves the problem, return/replace the battery you bought. If it doesn’t, it’s possible the logic board was damaged by some wayward prying during the repair. That’s fixable, but will probably require a visit to a specialist (microsoldering/board-level repair expert).

Jeff Suovanen -

Followed the directions… everything went ok, but now that it’s back together my screen has a brighter blotchy area near the top and a slightly dimmer area near the middle. I have a suspicion that I torqued it a little too much trying to get the screen separated from the bottom with the suction cup. Is that possible? If that is, in fact, what I did can I fix it somehow? Thanks in advance!

John Johnson - Yanıt

You could buy a replacement screen and replace your discolored screen if you’d like.

Andrew -

Just finished up the replacement and it went really well! The screen took a little force to get off and scared me a little but I eventually got it. I also messed up putting on the adhesive strips and only managed to get a small piece on to keep the battery in place. Works like a brand new phone! Thank you ifixit.

Mitchell Distefano - Yanıt

Hi there,

I have a iPhone 6s. It was always working perfectly well. The only problem was that the battery didn't last as long as it used to, so I replaced battery. Now, it was extremely slow and when I scrolled trough a document or website, it got stuck all the time. Also opening apps took very long. The lower the battery level got, the slower my phone got. Below 20% it was completely unusable.

Anyone have the same problem?

C E - Yanıt

Could be the new battery is faulty. Where did you get it from? Did you try swapping the old battery back in to see if that resolves the issues?

Jeff Suovanen -

i have this problem too when i change my battery and i dont know what should i do….when my power around 10-12 precent my phone will very slow and i cant use it do u have any idea?

Hamed Jalali -

This has happened with my battery i got from ifixit in December and it has just started not properly working. I have contacted them for a replacement. I would guess it is faulty.

jonathan -

Similar issue with battery conking out; not charging above 20-23%, then shutting down. Did a careful install with the iFixit replacement for my 6s (on video!). Time to field-test using original battery, no?

Joel Baird - Yanıt

Might sound stupid but should the clear plastic be removed from the new battery before placement?

Rich foupht - Yanıt

Yes, as stated in the repair procedure above

Andrew -

recently i change my iphone 6s battery but when my power is around 10-12 precent my phone is very slow and i cant use it is it normal our no?

Hamed Jalali - Yanıt

Yay! This is the second battery replacement I have managed to ace. A long time ago for an iPhone 4 and now for my I phone 6. Relatively easy except the sticky things. Hard to get out as instructed, hard to put the new ones on exactly as there was no clue in the video or written instructions. I managed, It works, I’m happy and so is my phone. I am a 58 year old female..

gloriac916 - Yanıt

Congrats! You can find instructions for putting on the new stuff linked in the final step by the way. It’s a slightly more generic guide that works for multiple models, so it lives on its own page.

Jeff Suovanen -

purchased 2 batteries (eBay) for 2 phones. 1perfect. Mine crash/reboot cycles. new battery. Worked, but fast drain. Contacted seller, issued refund, replaced original battery. another battery- chose seller with better reviews, paid more. Weird issues similar to first battery. Worked at first, once run down, crashed wouldn’t charge. lots of testing later I realized all 3 of my replacement batteries lack any insulator on top of the metal of the battery connection point. Original battery has insulator. Read that a scratch in that insulating material can cause issues. electrical tape. Now same battery that wouldn’t go past 1% acting totally normal. confusing: if real issue, how do replacements work for anyone lacking the insulator? How could sellers overlook such simple and crucial thing? How did 2nd battery work at all while 2 others were useless? If anyone else receives a battery with exposed metal on top of connection point, may be worth a small strip of electrical tape to guard against weird issues.

Kyle - Yanıt

My wife’s IPhone 6s took a swim and would not charge. After Googling possible repairs, I found Ifixit and ordered battery replacement kit. Their step by step instructions made the repair easy. Even for a old guy (71 yrs) with shakey hands.

Peter Ferrari - Yanıt

I will be buying the clacker next time, but my son was finally able to insert a spudger into the slot. Almost lost the second glue strip. Great tools. Great parts.

bradtittle - Yanıt

Great tutorial overall!! I’ve used the cheaper stuff out there to save a few bucks, but it’s not worth the headache. By far the quality and resources given by iFixit have been great and they will continue be my go-to. - The only thing that I’d suggest for any noob like me, is to take your time with the adhesive strips on the battery itself. Application was tricky and I got sideways real quick. So again, take your time!!

Daniel - Yanıt

I can’t get my screen back on perfectly. The top of the screen won’t “seat” all the way flush and I don’t want to press too hard because I don’t want to break it! Anyone have a suggestion?

Bob Willix - Yanıt

Never mind: make sure you put the top in FIRST when you reassemble or it won’t seat right! Thanks!

Bob Willix - Yanıt

I was having unexpected shutdowns, low battery capacity (79%), and 3D Touch problems and LCD issues from the OEM battery being slightly swollen.

The hardest part of the repair was removing the screen due to the adhesive. Although I really like the adhesive seal because it helps keep the phone dust proof. Definitely plan on replacing it any time you remove the screen.

The rest of the steps were straight forward and easy. The guide was was thorough and extremely helpful! Thank you!

JHughes - Yanıt

Thank you! Still have yet to test out battery but my iPhone 6s is all put back together and working! saved me some $$$

Gagerminnix - Yanıt

Awesome tutorial! After finding out that my iPhone 6s’ serial number did not qualify for Apple’s reduced battery replacement price, I decided to give DIY a try. I was nervous at first, but everything went smoothly and my iPhone works great now. The steps are very clear and super helpful. Really glad I found and went with iFixit!

Flo - Yanıt

worked on 2 phones, studied the materials first, went slow and careful, it all worked out, even the adhesive removal. Took off cover, took out vibe. decent kit, only needed one tool kit, bought 2 b/c I though the soft plastic tools would take a beating like opening an old ipod, nope. Nice kit, nice tips from the community.

csoltani - Yanıt

Great tools/instructions. However the battery drains about as fast as my old one. Maybe my iphone 6s is just old? Did anyone else have about the same battery performance after replacing?

Michael Shearer - Yanıt