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Use this guide to remove or replace the power button in your iPhone 7. This guide is just for the physical button, and not the electronic switches beneath.

If you need to replace the volume and power control cable, follow this guide.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Yanıt

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Yanıt

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Yanıt

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Yanıt

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Yanıt

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Yanıt

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Yanıt

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Yanıt

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Yanıt

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Yanıt

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Yanıt

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Yanıt

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Yanıt

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Yanıt

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Yanıt

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Yanıt

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Yanıt

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Yanıt

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Yanıt

  3. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Yanıt

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Yanıt

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Yanıt

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Yanıt

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Yanıt

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Yanıt

  4. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Yanıt

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Yanıt

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Yanıt

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Yanıt

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Yanıt

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Yanıt

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Yanıt

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Yanıt

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Yanıt

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Yanıt

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Yanıt

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Yanıt

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Yanıt

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Yanıt

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Yanıt

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Yanıt

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Yanıt

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Yanıt

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Yanıt

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Yanıt

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Yanıt

  5. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Yanıt

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Yanıt

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Yanıt

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Yanıt

  6. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Yanıt

  7. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Yanıt

  8. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Yanıt

    Made this mistake

    rachael.grime - Yanıt

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Yanıt

  9. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Yanıt

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  11. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Yanıt

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Yanıt

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Yanıt

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Yanıt

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Yanıt

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Yanıt

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Yanıt

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Yanıt

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Yanıt

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Yanıt

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Yanıt

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Yanıt

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Yanıt

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Yanıt

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Yanıt

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Yanıt

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Yanıt

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Yanıt

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Yanıt

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Yanıt

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Yanıt

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Yanıt

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Yanıt

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Yanıt

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Yanıt

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Yanıt

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Yanıt

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Yanıt

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Yanıt

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Yanıt

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Yanıt

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Yanıt

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Yanıt

  12. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Yanıt

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Yanıt

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Yanıt

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Yanıt

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Yanıt

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Yanıt

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Yanıt

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Yanıt

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Yanıt

  15. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Yanıt

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Yanıt

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Yanıt

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Yanıt

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Yanıt

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Yanıt

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Yanıt

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Yanıt

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Yanıt

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Yanıt

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Yanıt

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Yanıt

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Yanıt

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Yanıt

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Yanıt

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Yanıt

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Yanıt

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Yanıt

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Yanıt

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Yanıt

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Yanıt

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Yanıt

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Yanıt

  19. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  20. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm screw
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

  21. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  22. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Yanıt

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Yanıt

  23. Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Yanıt

  24. Remove the upper cable bracket. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  25. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Yanıt

  26. Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna: Three 1.2 mm screws
    • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Yanıt

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Yanıt

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Yanıt

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Yanıt

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Yanıt

  27. Remove the top left antenna. Remove the top left antenna.
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Yanıt

  28. Remove the following Phillips screws:
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  29. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Yanıt

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Yanıt

  30. Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [bağlı ürün eksik veya kapalı: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Yanıt

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Yanıt

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Yanıt

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Yanıt

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Yanıt

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Yanıt

  31. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Yanıt

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Yanıt

  32. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

  33. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.
    • Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

  34. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

  35. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [bağlı ürün eksik veya kapalı: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  36. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  37. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  38. Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

  39. Remove the following Phillips screws: Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.

    • Three 2.3 mm screws securing the volume buttons.

    You need to remove the battery first.

    Jasper Shemilt - Yanıt

  40. Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws: One screw beside the rear-facing camera
    • Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws:

    • One screw beside the rear-facing camera

    • One screw on the rear case

  41. From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger. This action  will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.
    • From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger.

    • This action will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.

  42. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera. Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.

  43. Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case. Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case.
    • Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case.

  44. Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.
    • Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  45. Use tweezers to move the antenna flex cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case. Remove the antenna flex cable.
    • Use tweezers to move the antenna flex cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

  46. Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.
    • Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [bağlı ürün eksik veya kapalı: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  47. Remove the flash bracket. Remove the flash bracket.
    • Remove the flash bracket.

  48. Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module. Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.

  49. Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case. Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.
    • Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.

  50. Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case. Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.
    • Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.

  51. Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case. Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone. Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.
    • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case.

    • Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.

  52. Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable. Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal. Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.
    • Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable.

    • Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.

  53. Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable. Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive. Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.
    • Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable.

    • Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  54. Remove the power and volume control cable.
    • Remove the power and volume control cable.

  55. Pull the clip towards the bottom of the phone and lift up to free it from the bracket. Pull the clip towards the bottom of the phone and lift up to free it from the bracket.
    • Pull the clip towards the bottom of the phone and lift up to free it from the bracket.

  56. Remove the clip from the rear case. Remove the clip from the rear case.
    • Remove the clip from the rear case.

  57. Push the lower end of the power button bracket up off of peg securing it. Push the lower end of the power button bracket up off of peg securing it.
    • Push the lower end of the power button bracket up off of peg securing it.

    Step 89: helps to push the Power/Lock Button in while using the spudger. Otherwise, the bracket may get caught under the rim of the case.

    Mike - Yanıt

    good one mike! that helps alot. you need to use a little bit of force to lift up the right hand side ..towards bottom of phone..

    ANDREW -

    In my opinion its better to use a flat ended screw driver as it requires quite a bit of force to get these out. they clip in and clip out. when re attaching listen for the click sound so you know its located well.

    ANDREW - Yanıt

  58. Pull the bracket from the rear case. Pull the bracket from the rear case.
    • Pull the bracket from the rear case.

  59. Use the pointed end of a spudger to push the power button cover out of the rear case. Remove the power button cover.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to push the power button cover out of the rear case.

    • Remove the power button cover.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Scott Havard

Üyelik tarihi: 27-06-2016

41.399 İtibar

33 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

2 Yorum

Alright so quick question…….

the clip shown in step 57 the one that resembles a staple,is this necessary?

Im doing a housing swap for myself and I cannot get these back on going on an hour now my hands are huge so im wondering if everything will be okay if I don’t replace these.(normally if it were another person’s device I would never take a shortcut,Never have and Never will in fact I despise this,but it’s my phone so it’s cool).

thanks

Vegeta Barrett - Yanıt

I can't see a response. Are the clips necessary?

Martha Brewer - Yanıt

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