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iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement

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  1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: adım 1, 1 resimden 1.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Yanıt

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Yanıt

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Yanıt

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Yanıt

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Yanıt

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Yanıt

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Yanıt

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Yanıt

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Yanıt

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Yanıt

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Yanıt

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Yanıt

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Yanıt

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Yanıt

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Yanıt

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Yanıt

  2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: adım 2, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: adım 2, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Mark your opening picks: adım 2, 3 resimden 3.
    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Yanıt

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Yanıt

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Yanıt

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Yanıt

  3. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: adım 3, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: adım 3, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: adım 3, 3 resimden 3.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Satın Al
    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 4, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 4, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 4, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 5, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 5, 2 resimden 2.
    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Yanıt

  6. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Heat the display: adım 6, 1 resimden 1.
    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Yanıt

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Yanıt

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Yanıt

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Yanıt

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Yanıt

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Yanıt

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Yanıt

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Yanıt

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Yanıt

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Yanıt

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Yanıt

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Yanıt

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Yanıt

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Yanıt

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Yanıt

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Yanıt

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Yanıt

  7. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Separate the display: adım 7, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Separate the display: adım 7, 2 resimden 2.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Yanıt

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Yanıt

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Yanıt

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Yanıt

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Yanıt

  8. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Yanıt

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Yanıt

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Yanıt

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Yanıt

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Yanıt

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Yanıt

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Yanıt

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Yanıt

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Yanıt

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Yanıt

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Yanıt

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Yanıt

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Yanıt

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Yanıt

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Yanıt

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Yanıt

  9. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 9, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 9, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 9, 3 resimden 3.
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Yanıt

  10. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Screen information: adım 10, 1 resimden 1.
    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Yanıt

  11. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 3.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Yanıt

  12. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 12, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 12, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  13. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 13, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 13, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 13, 3 resimden 3.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Yanıt

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Yanıt

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Yanıt

  14. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 14, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 14, 2 resimden 2.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  15. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 15, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 15, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 15, 3 resimden 3.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Yanıt

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Yanıt

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Yanıt

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Yanıt

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Yanıt

  16. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Battery Disconnection: adım 16, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Satın Al

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Yanıt

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Yanıt

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Yanıt

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Yanıt

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Yanıt

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Yanıt

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Yanıt

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Yanıt

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Yanıt

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Yanıt

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Yanıt

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Yanıt

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Yanıt

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Yanıt

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Yanıt

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Yanıt

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Yanıt

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Yanıt

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Yanıt

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Yanıt

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Yanıt

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Yanıt

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Yanıt

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Yanıt

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Yanıt

  17. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 17, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Yanıt

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Yanıt

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Yanıt

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Yanıt

  18. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 18, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Yanıt

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Yanıt

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Yanıt

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Yanıt

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Yanıt

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Yanıt

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Yanıt

  19. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: adım 19, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: adım 19, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Display Assembly: adım 19, 3 resimden 3.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Yanıt

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Yanıt

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Yanıt

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Yanıt

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Yanıt

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Yanıt

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Yanıt

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Yanıt

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Yanıt

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Yanıt

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Yanıt

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Yanıt

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Yanıt

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Yanıt

  20. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 20, 3 resimden 3.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Yanıt

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Yanıt

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Yanıt

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Yanıt

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Yanıt

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Yanıt

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Yanıt

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Yanıt

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Yanıt

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Yanıt

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Yanıt

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Yanıt

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Yanıt

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Yanıt

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Yanıt

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Yanıt

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Yanıt

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Yanıt

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Yanıt

  21. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 21, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 21, 2 resimden 2.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Yanıt

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Yanıt

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Yanıt

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Yanıt

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Yanıt

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Yanıt

  22. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 22, 1 resimden 1.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Yanıt

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Yanıt

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Yanıt

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Yanıt

  23. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, SIM Card: adım 23, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, SIM Card: adım 23, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, SIM Card: adım 23, 3 resimden 3.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Yanıt

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Yanıt

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - Yanıt

  24. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: adım 24, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: adım 24, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  25. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 25, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 25, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Yanıt

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - Yanıt

  26. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 26, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the bracket.

  27. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 27, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 27, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Yanıt

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Yanıt

  28. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 28, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Yanıt

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - Yanıt

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - Yanıt

  29. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 29, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 29, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  30. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 30, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 30, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Yanıt

  31. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 31, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 31, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Yanıt

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Yanıt

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Yanıt

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Yanıt

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Yanıt

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  32. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 32, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 32, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Yanıt

  33. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 33, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

    Möglicherweise muss man den Kleber zuerst entfernen!

    Evan Winter - Yanıt

  34. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 34, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 34, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Yanıt

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Yanıt

  35. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 35, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Satın Al
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Yanıt

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Yanıt

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Yanıt

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Yanıt

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Yanıt

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Yanıt

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - Yanıt

  36. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 36, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 36, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Yanıt

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Yanıt

    Did your phone work ?

    Emin -

    also broken does it work without?

    Emin - Yanıt

    I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

    Chandler Forrest - Yanıt

    $@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

    Z1xus - Yanıt

    I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

    Lauren Campbell - Yanıt

  37. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Logic Board: adım 37, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Logic Board: adım 37, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Logic Board: adım 37, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

  38. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 38, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

  39. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

    Wat voor kabel is dit? Deze is beschadigd bij mijn IPhone 8 Plus

    Maarten - Yanıt

  40. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 40, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Satın Al
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff driver.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Link may be missing or broken!

    Standoff screws are best removed using an [linked product missing or disabled: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    Phrase Neither - Yanıt

  41. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 41, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 41, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  42. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  43. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 3.
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    Très bien pour ces étapes

    Théophile Bita - Yanıt

  44. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Barometric Vent: adım 44, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Yanıt

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Yanıt

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

    I didn't see the necessity, so I didn't remove the Barometric Vent since I decided I wasn't going to uplug the Taptic Engine, although I did remove screws for the Taptic Engine, but I didn't unplug it. I believe the point of removing the Taptic Engine is to gain access and space to pull the adhesive strips off the battery. If you attempt and are able to remove the adhesive off the battery, then I believe it's NOT necessary to remove the Barometric Vent nor the Taptic Engine.

    Rosie J - Yanıt

  45. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 45, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 45, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the vent.

  46. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Power and Volume Control Cable Battery: adım 46, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Power and Volume Control Cable Battery: adım 46, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  47. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 47, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

  48. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 48, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 48, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  49. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 49, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 49, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 49, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

  50. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 50, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 50, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a pair of tweezers with blunt tips to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.

  51. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 51, 3 resimden 3.
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

  52. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 52, 1 resimden 1.
    • Repeat the previous step for the second strip.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

  53. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 53, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 53, 2 resimden 2.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    Satın Al
    • If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

    • After about a minute, remove the iOpener, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

    • Avoid bending the battery. Damage to the battery may release dangerous chemicals, and could start a fire.

    • Do not pry under the top third of the battery, you may damage the volume button ribbon cable.

    什麼是「電池的前第三下」?

    施鈺珣 - Yanıt

  54. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 54, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the battery.

    • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  55. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Power and Volume Control Cable: adım 55, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement, Power and Volume Control Cable: adım 55, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • Two 1.9 mm screws securing the power button.

    • Three 2.3 mm screws securing the volume buttons.

    You need to remove the battery first.

    Jasper Shemilt - Yanıt

  56. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 56, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 56, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the following 1.3 mm Phillips screws:

    • One screw beside the rear-facing camera

    • One screw on the rear case

  57. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 57, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 57, 2 resimden 2.
    • From the outside of the phone, push the hold switch into the rear case with the point of a spudger.

    • This action will free the hold switch and gasket from the rear case.

  58. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 58, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 58, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear-facing camera.

  59. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 59, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 59, 2 resimden 2.
    • Moving from power button side of the phone, use an opening pick to separate the adhesive holding the antenna flex cable to the rear case.

  60. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 60, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 60, 2 resimden 2.
    • Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the antenna flex cable towards the top of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  61. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 61, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 61, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use tweezers to move the antenna flex cable away from the edge of the phone, freeing the screw bracket from the rear case.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

  62. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 62, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the 2.3 mm standoff screw securing the flash bracket to the rear case.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [bağlı ürün eksik veya kapalı: IF145-343] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  63. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 63, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 63, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the flash bracket.

  64. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 64, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 64, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently unseat the flash module.

  65. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 65, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 65, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the blade of a Halberd spudger to separate the adhesive holding the microphone to the rear case.

  66. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 66, 2 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 66, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently fold the power button module from the edge of the rear case.

  67. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 67, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 67, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 67, 3 resimden 3.
    • Slide the blade of a halberd spudger under the power button end of the button cable to separate it from the adhesive on the rear case.

    • Continue to separate the adhesive by moving the blade towards the top of the phone.

  68. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 68, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 68, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 68, 3 resimden 3.
    • Continue to move the blade of the halberd spudger underneath the power and volume control cable.

    • Move slowly to make sure that the cable is not damaged during removal.

  69. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 69, 3 resimden 1. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 69, 3 resimden 2. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 69, 3 resimden 3.
    • Slide the halberd spudger under the volume control portion of the button cable.

    • Gently slide the blade underneath the cable towards the bottom of the phone, separating the remaining adhesive.

  70. iPhone 7 Power and Volume Control Cable Replacement: adım 70, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the power and volume control cable.

    Thank you very much for this guide, I did the job perfectly, without this guide I would not have succeeded.

    Thanks thanks thanks :-)

    agibru - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

34 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Scott Havard

Üyelik tarihi: 06/27/16

49.564 İtibar

31 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

8 Yorum

Hello,

how can I disassemble and assemble the mute button from the flex cable. because most spare part cables are without mute button…

thanks

Martin - Yanıt

the mute button can slide out. there is space on the side that is not marked red. it looks like three clips hold it in but simply grab hold of the button nob thing with tweezers and slide or wedge it out from underneath that bar that goes around the side with the red line and then once it’s out you can slip that button into the new flex

reymito sanchez -

Well theres 2 hours of my life I’m not getting back, worked a treat though…

Trig0r - Yanıt

hahaha aqint that the truth LOL

Mr. Anil Sethi Jr -

After reinstalling the volume and power buttons and brackets & clips, my power button won’t turn phone off/on; my volume control seems possessed and does what it wants, lol. Help!

Martha Brewer - Yanıt

silly question, did you insert the tiny O-Rings to each of the buttons before pushing them into the case ?!?

Because i think between those O-Rings and the clips, it gives the right amount of tension/compression to allow the buttons to operate

Mr. Anil Sethi Jr -

This guide for the power/ volume ribbon is not on the 7+ page, so I found myself here. This guide is very accurate and mostly similar. I didn’t have much trouble, but there are a few extra steps that aren’t on the normal 7. (things like a few extra screws and and ribbon connectors) If your using this guide for the 7+, not knowing to unscrew a few extra screw could be the end of your phone. Especially the extra screw in the center of the logic board! (Which obviously isn’t in this guide because its for the normal 7)

Bouncing back and fourth from the available 7+ guides gave me the info that was missing in the particular guide, and was only a bit of a pain. Manageable tho with a little extra brain power haha.

PLEASE MAKE THIS GUIDE FOR THE iPHONE 7+! It would be greatly appreciated by many users! Not to mention there are still many 7+ users out there and it would be very helpful.

-thank you!

michael wehner - Yanıt

I was trying to replace the charging port for my iPhone 7 Plus , however once I am done with the charging port replacement , both of my volume keys and mute doesn’t work , it worked before I did the replacement . I am wondering which connector I might not connect it well ? Anybody can help with that ?

Flora Meng - Yanıt

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