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iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to full performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to completely detach the display and remove the lower speaker and Taptic Engine for better access to the battery's adhesive strips.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

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  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    There are 6.81mm long screws!

    Daniel - Yanıt

    One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

    cgtyoder - Yanıt

    same situation here

    kaunomarcius - Yanıt

    Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

    patronics - Yanıt

    Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

    patronics - Yanıt

    I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

    cgtyoder - Yanıt

    Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

    Kyle Harris - Yanıt

    yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

    Dulce Vidal - Yanıt

    Hi, there this is a great informative post that is really shareable to all newbies who are interested in the Guide for the mobile phone repair industry. Really the mobile phone repair blogging is a great way to make money online. Thank you for sharing the post.

    You may know more about iPhone Repair, https://fixnrepair.org/iphone-repair/

    Muhammad Forhad - Yanıt

    This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

    Uri - Yanıt

    These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

    Dan Long -

    @Dan Long is right

    Uri -

    Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

    William Olstad - Yanıt

    The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

    justin - Yanıt

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri - Yanıt

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

    Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

    dominique.br - Yanıt

    When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

    jonpol - Yanıt

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the next two steps.

  5. If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Yanıt

    3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

    Tawan Khamapirad - Yanıt

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Yanıt

    The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

    Monil Shah - Yanıt

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

    William Olstad - Yanıt

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Yanıt

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

    Mike Kostersitz - Yanıt

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

    Richard Tucker - Yanıt

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

    dabur872 - Yanıt

    Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

    Alexander Nowak - Yanıt

    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.1 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

    Rich May 23, 2020

    ungodly - Yanıt

    My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

    So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

    That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

    I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

    vingu - Yanıt

    My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

    Renout v Oijen - Yanıt

  12. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

    monastra7 - Yanıt

    The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agree with Jeff

    cgtyoder -

    I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

    Monica - Yanıt

  13. Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

    luca.valli - Yanıt

    note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

    Noal Balint - Yanıt

    Thanks, already did it)

    Stephen Hedrick -

  14. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  15. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

    Ray Johnson - Yanıt

    Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

    Renout v Oijen - Yanıt

  16. Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

    Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

    Tawan Khamapirad - Yanıt

    Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

    Jeffrey Hoy -

    I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

    Pol Llovet - Yanıt

  17. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv - Yanıt

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson - Yanıt

    Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

    Jonathan Pines - Yanıt

    My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

    William Olstad - Yanıt

    Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

    Karl Jarvis - Yanıt

    I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

    LosBenitos - Yanıt

    Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

    huuhaukimngan - Yanıt

  18. Remove the display assembly.

    I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

    Alexis Rodriguez - Yanıt

    At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

    Grant - Yanıt

    Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

    Nicole - Yanıt

  19. Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone. Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
    • Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:

    • Two Y000 1.9 mm screws

    • One Y000 1.2 mm screw

    • One Y000 1.6 mm screw

    • One Phillips 2.4 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.7 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.5 mm screw

    For battery replacement:

    It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33

    Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10

    Alexander - Yanıt

    I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.

    Eric Marino -

    Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.

    marshallburchard -

    I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.

    Andy Price - Yanıt

    The 2.4mm screw identified as “green” needs a Y000 screwdriver

    seb6po - Yanıt

    Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(

    Andrew Romano - Yanıt

    The color codes are missing from my display — only on this step.

    nat2 - Yanıt

    The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?

    fb.mailing.lists - Yanıt

    For first timer, dont think its possible to skip these steps and remove battery. It’s hard to remove the glue

    Wex - Yanıt

  20. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.
    • Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

  21. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.
    • While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

  22. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  23. Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover. Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.
    • Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

    L'unique vis non?

    Easy Repair - Yanıt

    Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !

    Claire Miesch -

  24. Remove the speaker connector cover.
    • Remove the speaker connector cover.

  25. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

  26. When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out. Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.
    • When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.

    • Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

    • When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.

  27. Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
    • Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

  28. Remove the speaker. The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.
    • Remove the speaker.

    • The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

    You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.

    timblake2112 - Yanıt

  29. Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine. Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

  30. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

  31. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  32. The iPhone X's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.
    • The iPhone X's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.

    • Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

  33. Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery. Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab. Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.
    • Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.

    • Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery

    Dominick garton - Yanıt

    I had a lot of trouble with this. Only two came out properly and the others snapped off. I heated up the back of the phone with a hair dryer then used the flat end of the spudger to slowly pry it off right to left, bottom to top.

    Grant - Yanıt

  34. Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery. Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab. Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.
    • Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.

    • Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.

  35. In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease. If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips. To increase your odds of success:
    • In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.

    • If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.

    • To increase your odds of success:

    • Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.

    • Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.

    • Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.

    • Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.

    • If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

  36. Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
    • Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

  37. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last. Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.
    • Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.

  38. Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable. Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable. Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.
    • Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.

  39. The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care. Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
    • The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.

    • Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.

    surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,

    Ludovic Klein - Yanıt

  40. Pull and remove the final adhesive strip. The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure  it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery. If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
    • Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.

    • The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.

    • If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    • For alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case, continue to the next step below.

  41. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

    • Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.

    • Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.

    • If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    if you use a guitar string, remember NOT to use a METALLIC guitar string.

    Ross King - Yanıt

    flexible plastic rules with alcohol work too

    Wex - Yanıt

  42. Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
    • Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.

    Jesse Bolane - Yanıt

    Connect the battery first then put it in place. Other way it is hard to adjust power connector.

    Alexander - Yanıt

    I would also HIGHLY suggest re-installing the speaker as well before installing the battery - it was a very tight squeeze as the bottom-right of the battery was snug against the speaker when I tried to get that back in.

    cgtyoder - Yanıt

Sonuç

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

298 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Jeff Suovanen

Üyelik tarihi: 06-08-2013

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41 Yorum

In the store it says the iSlack is only for iPhone 5 and 6. In this review the iSlack is used (without tray). Does that mean it can be used on the iPhone X as well?

Ronald van der Meer - Yanıt

@rvdm The little bracket in the middle of the iSclack is sized for iPhone 5, but that bracket is optional and very easy to detach. At that point you have a really great general-purpose suction tool that works for all kinds of devices (even bigger ones like tablets). I’ll see about updating the description on the store page to reflect that fact. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Have you all ever had a problem of the phone staying stuck on a percentage and takes so long to charge plz let me know because I just got my iPhone X and it take so long to charge and I got it brand new from AT&T

Cristan Montes - Yanıt

Esta solucionado el tema del Chip Texas instrument para baterias no reemplazadas en Apple, gracias.

FELIX MARQUEZ - Yanıt

C’è un errore di traduzione al passo 33 BATTERIA , iphone X diventa iphone 8.

Marco

Marco Pautasso - Yanıt

Ciao Marco! Hai occhi di lince! Grazie per il commento. Ho corretto la traduzione. Commenti di questo tipo sono sempre benvenuti. Hai anche la possibilità di adattare direttamente la traduzione, cliccando sull’icona “Traduci”. Saluti, Claire

Claire Miesch -

Note that my replacement battery was completely dead when I installed it, so when I tested it, I thought perhaps something wasn’t hooked up right. After removing the bracket for the connectors and reattaching the battery connector I tried again. Since that failed, I plugged the phone in. I got a “no charge” battery icon. After a few minutes I removed the phone from the charger. The phone stayed on with the “plug in the phone” icon, so I knew everything was put back together correctly.

Jon12 - Yanıt

Critical Note! When installing the new battery make sure the connector lines up. The instructions mention having the speaker and taptic engine in place so I focused on squaring up with those. This was a mistake! Now my connector is 2mm too low and won’t line up. Not sure how I will fix this yet but hopefully I won't need to remove everything again.

Christopher Jones - Yanıt

Where can I buy a genuine original iPhone X battery as amazon Walmart sells fake batteries

masrin - Yanıt

You can not buy a genuine battery.

Alexander -

How to make out a genuine original battery from a fake one sold all over the globe?

masrin - Yanıt

Super Set, auch toll das hier die Dichtung dabei ist. Akku lädt und zeit die %-Werte an. Beim nächsten Mal kauf Ichs gleich hier"! War jetzt schon die 2te Reparatur. Mittlerweile schaff ich das schon ca. 40 min ;)

Danke

Peter - Yanıt

Aparecerá el porcentaje de la batería en el apartado de “salud”?

Gustavo González Martínez - Yanıt

removing the components that are below the battery seems rather unnecessary to me, you could remove the battery without taking those out

Samuel Casas - Yanıt

I had an issue with a swollen battery on a iphone X, the battery was pushing the display assembly and the phone couldn’t close properly. Replaced with new battery and all went fine. Great guide as always

Georgi Ivanov - Yanıt

This battery already comes with battery health indicator or need to reprogram the battery ?

danial nabil - Yanıt

Big thank you for introduction!

commaai - Yanıt

It would be nice if this addressed the waterproof adhesive, mentioned in Step 6. Doesn’t pulling the phone apart make it no longer watertight?

Winston - Yanıt

Instructions for replacing the adhesive seals are linked in the guide (Step 19). I wouldn’t count on your phone being waterproof after a repair, but a phone from 2017-2018 likely won’t be particularly water-resistant anymore, anyway. Those seals tend to degrade over time.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, I bought the battery from you and installed it exactly like your steps.

But after two days of use, a message appears to me that this battery is not original and its percentage cannot be read !!!

What to do now ???

Fahad Mohammad Fahad - Yanıt

When changing the battery to a third party one, are there any notifications that appear such as “not a genuine battery” and does reprogramming the battery help prevent this.

Farjad Akram - Yanıt

BE WARNED! THE IPHONE’S OUTSIDE IS VERY, VERY SHARP! I escaped with 4 cuts on my fingers.

AemVR - Yanıt

I replaced two of these in one night. The first one worked great but the second’s OLED screen won’t come on. The phone is on because I can hear it charge when I plug it in, but for some reason the screen is dead.

Lucas - Yanıt

If you’re buying the battery from iFixit I strongly suggest getting the full kit and not the battery-only option so that you get the glue and the gasket. Great guide, thank you!

Grant - Yanıt

It is perfectly possible to do the replacement without removing anything other than the bracket and the battery connector.

This reduces the number of steps to about 10 and takes about 15 minutes.

Neil Roberts - Yanıt

Awesome guide! I finished it, and now I have a fully working X

Just one thing: the video and the instructions differ on step 20, making the rest unnecessary according to the video guide. On the other hand, it may facilitate taking the glue off, especially for newbies.

Ed Oliver - Yanıt

I don’t want to sound like “that guy,” but the cost of a battery replacement is only $69 at an Apple Store. This DIY solution, which can go t!ts up anywhere along the 43 steps, requires the purchase of parts that cost almost as much as just letting Apple do it. I love fixing/replacing/upgrading my hardware as much as the next guy, but this seems like a scenario where the majority of people would be better off visiting an Apple Store.

koelpien - Yanıt

Except that authorized stores won’t replace a swollen battery, and neither will Apple. Otherwise yes, if the few hours extra and a few 10s of dollars is the additional price for a turnkey solution, most folks are better off having the work done for them.

Mike Hocker -

Was suffering from a hugely swollen battery so it made removing the adhesive pretty difficult (and I was being super careful since the battery had swollen so much). The “stretch and pull” with the adhesive was a no-go and I was hesitant to heat the phone. I ended up slowly pulling up on the battery at the top and gently working the adhesive away. It took some time, but worked out.

Great guide, as usual!

Patrick C - Yanıt

Jeg har lige skiftet batteri på min iPhone X i starten kunne jeg kun oplade trådløst, men nu kan jeg slet ikke oplade Den reagerer slet ikke på noget mere den er helt død Hvad kan jeg gøre ???

enok - Yanıt

The adhesive under the original battery broke. ALL TABS RIPPED APART! I have no floss nor metal guitar string. Help please. This is my only mobile phone. I need it 24/7.

vmm - Yanıt

Commentary on swelled batteries: don’t tell Apple, they will mark your iPhone SerialNumber in their database as not repairable and you will never be able to get a battery replacement in the future (per Apple phone support, as we tried to get their swollen battery replaced by appointment). We are not happy campers, now I need to use up valuable time replacing the battery. At least replacing the battery is an option with the help of iFixit. (oh, and they won’t put in a new battery if I remove the old one either— although once the old one is removed the hardest part of the work is done)

Mike Hocker - Yanıt

Wasn’t too bad, except some of the screws that need to be removed are tiny and I found out that my eyes are not the best anymore ?.

jabuka - Yanıt

Many thanks for this great tutorial !! Just changed the battery of my 4 years old iPhone X, I’m very happy to have a fresh one inside !

Faabio - Yanıt

Hello,

I have an iPhone X Model number MQAF2LZ/A bought in Perú and once I started removing the display I noticed it doesn’t open like in the pictures or video here. There is a connector behind the ear piece that connects to the main board and I can’t open it. I see if I force it I will break this connector. Have somebody worked with this model? and recommend where to buy a replacement display? The one I bought is for model number MQAF2LL/A (USA). (the ribbon cables look different)

John W - Yanıt

Today I show you how to replace the battery of the Iphone X. We need one screwdriver, one suction cup, 1 iopener, 1 pair of tweezers, 1 plastic pry tool, and 1 spudger.  Remember to turn off the power. The replacement can cause the loss of water resistance. To replace the battery for iphone X, do the following steps. Step 1, use the screwdrive to remove the screws at the bottom. Use Iopener to soften the adhesive. Clip the suction cup onto the screen and use a pry tool to pry out the screen. Lift up the screen 90 degrees on the right. Take off the small screws holding the battery cable and the motherboard. Next, use the tweezers to lift up the metal bracket. Use a spudger to pry away the battery connector and 3 display connectors. Use tweezers to remove the battery stripe. Remove the old battery. Reverse the above steps to install the new battery.

Hội Nguyễn - Yanıt

This takes me like 2 mins no tools required and I reused the adhesives also so less waste . I dont pull anything or use tools bar a tri star….. Should be updated . Soak in alcohol slightly leave for 2 mins remove battery , dry and replace using old adhesive (which is perfect) no cleaning ….Digithaiz

Sam Barton - Yanıt

Jeez I dont mind even making you a guide for this as its mostly sit and wait for all of the 5 mins max this takes!

Sam Barton - Yanıt

Porcentaje de la Condición de la batería funcionará bien?

Inksane BēLCK - Yanıt

Hallo,

ich habe mein iphone x display und batterie ausgetauscht, allerdings bekomme ich die fehlermeldung

Apple erfasst die Hardwarekennungen Ihres iPhones, um unsere Dienste zu identifizieren und zu aktivieren.

İch habe mein iphone x damals in der türkei gekauft und leider komme ich nach weiter woran kann das liegen ?

mst Ozyn - Yanıt

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