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iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to full performance.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
This guide instructs you to completely detach the display and remove the lower speaker and Taptic Engine for better access to the battery's adhesive strips.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Videoya Genel Bakış
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
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If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
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Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
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Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
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Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.1 mm screws
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One 3.1 mm screw
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One 3.7 mm screw
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.
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Remove the bracket.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
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Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
Snap ‘em in like little Legos.
Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
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Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
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Remove the display assembly.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
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Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
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Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
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One Y000 1.2 mm screw
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One Y000 1.6 mm screw
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One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.
Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(
The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?
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Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
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Remove the speaker.
You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
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Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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In the store it says the iSlack is only for iPhone 5 and 6. In this review the iSlack is used (without tray). Does that mean it can be used on the iPhone X as well?
@rvdm The little bracket in the middle of the iSclack is sized for iPhone 5, but that bracket is optional and very easy to detach. At that point you have a really great general-purpose suction tool that works for all kinds of devices (even bigger ones like tablets). I’ll see about updating the description on the store page to reflect that fact. ;)
Have you all ever had a problem of the phone staying stuck on a percentage and takes so long to charge plz let me know because I just got my iPhone X and it take so long to charge and I got it brand new from AT&T
bonne continuation
Esta solucionado el tema del Chip Texas instrument para baterias no reemplazadas en Apple, gracias.
C’è un errore di traduzione al passo 33 BATTERIA , iphone X diventa iphone 8.
Marco
Ciao Marco! Hai occhi di lince! Grazie per il commento. Ho corretto la traduzione. Commenti di questo tipo sono sempre benvenuti. Hai anche la possibilità di adattare direttamente la traduzione, cliccando sull’icona “Traduci”. Saluti, Claire
Note that my replacement battery was completely dead when I installed it, so when I tested it, I thought perhaps something wasn’t hooked up right. After removing the bracket for the connectors and reattaching the battery connector I tried again. Since that failed, I plugged the phone in. I got a “no charge” battery icon. After a few minutes I removed the phone from the charger. The phone stayed on with the “plug in the phone” icon, so I knew everything was put back together correctly.
Critical Note! When installing the new battery make sure the connector lines up. The instructions mention having the speaker and taptic engine in place so I focused on squaring up with those. This was a mistake! Now my connector is 2mm too low and won’t line up. Not sure how I will fix this yet but hopefully I won't need to remove everything again.
Aparecerá el porcentaje de la batería en el apartado de “salud”?
removing the components that are below the battery seems rather unnecessary to me, you could remove the battery without taking those out
I had an issue with a swollen battery on a iphone X, the battery was pushing the display assembly and the phone couldn’t close properly. Replaced with new battery and all went fine. Great guide as always
This battery already comes with battery health indicator or need to reprogram the battery ?
It would be nice if this addressed the waterproof adhesive, mentioned in Step 6. Doesn’t pulling the phone apart make it no longer watertight?
Instructions for replacing the adhesive seals are linked in the guide (Step 19). I wouldn’t count on your phone being waterproof after a repair, but a phone from 2017-2018 likely won’t be particularly water-resistant anymore, anyway. Those seals tend to degrade over time.
Hi, I bought the battery from you and installed it exactly like your steps.
But after two days of use, a message appears to me that this battery is not original and its percentage cannot be read !!!
What to do now ???
When changing the battery to a third party one, are there any notifications that appear such as “not a genuine battery” and does reprogramming the battery help prevent this.
It is perfectly possible to do the replacement without removing anything other than the bracket and the battery connector.
This reduces the number of steps to about 10 and takes about 15 minutes.
I don’t want to sound like “that guy,” but the cost of a battery replacement is only $69 at an Apple Store. This DIY solution, which can go t!ts up anywhere along the 43 steps, requires the purchase of parts that cost almost as much as just letting Apple do it. I love fixing/replacing/upgrading my hardware as much as the next guy, but this seems like a scenario where the majority of people would be better off visiting an Apple Store.
Except that authorized stores won’t replace a swollen battery, and neither will Apple. Otherwise yes, if the few hours extra and a few 10s of dollars is the additional price for a turnkey solution, most folks are better off having the work done for them.
Was suffering from a hugely swollen battery so it made removing the adhesive pretty difficult (and I was being super careful since the battery had swollen so much). The “stretch and pull” with the adhesive was a no-go and I was hesitant to heat the phone. I ended up slowly pulling up on the battery at the top and gently working the adhesive away. It took some time, but worked out.
Great guide, as usual!
Commentary on swelled batteries: don’t tell Apple, they will mark your iPhone SerialNumber in their database as not repairable and you will never be able to get a battery replacement in the future (per Apple phone support, as we tried to get their swollen battery replaced by appointment). We are not happy campers, now I need to use up valuable time replacing the battery. At least replacing the battery is an option with the help of iFixit. (oh, and they won’t put in a new battery if I remove the old one either— although once the old one is removed the hardest part of the work is done)
Hello,
I have an iPhone X Model number MQAF2LZ/A bought in Perú and once I started removing the display I noticed it doesn’t open like in the pictures or video here. There is a connector behind the ear piece that connects to the main board and I can’t open it. I see if I force it I will break this connector. Have somebody worked with this model? and recommend where to buy a replacement display? The one I bought is for model number MQAF2LL/A (USA). (the ribbon cables look different)
Today I show you how to replace the battery of the Iphone X. We need one screwdriver, one suction cup, 1 iopener, 1 pair of tweezers, 1 plastic pry tool, and 1 spudger. Remember to turn off the power. The replacement can cause the loss of water resistance. To replace the battery for iphone X, do the following steps. Step 1, use the screwdrive to remove the screws at the bottom. Use Iopener to soften the adhesive. Clip the suction cup onto the screen and use a pry tool to pry out the screen. Lift up the screen 90 degrees on the right. Take off the small screws holding the battery cable and the motherboard. Next, use the tweezers to lift up the metal bracket. Use a spudger to pry away the battery connector and 3 display connectors. Use tweezers to remove the battery stripe. Remove the old battery. Reverse the above steps to install the new battery.
This takes me like 2 mins no tools required and I reused the adhesives also so less waste . I dont pull anything or use tools bar a tri star….. Should be updated . Soak in alcohol slightly leave for 2 mins remove battery , dry and replace using old adhesive (which is perfect) no cleaning ….Digithaiz
Jeez I dont mind even making you a guide for this as its mostly sit and wait for all of the 5 mins max this takes!
Porcentaje de la Condición de la batería funcionará bien?
Hallo,
ich habe mein iphone x display und batterie ausgetauscht, allerdings bekomme ich die fehlermeldung
Apple erfasst die Hardwarekennungen Ihres iPhones, um unsere Dienste zu identifizieren und zu aktivieren.
İch habe mein iphone x damals in der türkei gekauft und leider komme ich nach weiter woran kann das liegen ?
There are 6.81mm long screws!
Daniel - Yanıt
One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?
cgtyoder - Yanıt
same situation here
kaunomarcius - Yanıt
Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?
patronics - Yanıt
Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.
patronics - Yanıt
I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!
cgtyoder - Yanıt
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
Kyle Harris - Yanıt
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
Dulce Vidal - Yanıt
Hi, there this is a great informative post that is really shareable to all newbies who are interested in the Guide for the mobile phone repair industry. Really the mobile phone repair blogging is a great way to make money online. Thank you for sharing the post.
You may know more about iPhone Repair, https://fixnrepair.org/iphone-repair/
Muhammad Forhad - Yanıt
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
Uri - Yanıt
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
William Olstad - Yanıt
The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out
justin - Yanıt