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Adımlar
23
Gerekli Süre
- Glass Panel % 1 adım
- Display % 1 adım
- Logic Board Assembly % 1 adım
- Battery % 1 adım
Öne Çıkan Kılavuzlar
Bu kılavuz, iFixit kadrosu tarafından acayip havalı bulundu.
Giriş
Replacing the battery requires a fine tip soldering iron and is a difficult job that only experienced solderers should attempt.
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Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool into the gap between the outer case and the top bezel.
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Pry the top bezel off the adhesive securing it to the display retainer.
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Remove the hold switch slider from the top of the Nano.
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Remove the two angled Phillips screws from the two corners of the display retainer.
Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.
Like others have noted, screws are covered in adhesive and difficult to remove. Take extreme care to not strip the heads. I'd suggest using a very small flathead to scrape some of the adhesive off before attempting to remove the screws.
The tools list doesn't say you need an iPod opener to, nor does the parts list day you'll need a new click wheel, though this is called ”...click wheel REPLACEMENT”. I don't get the feeling these are very trustworthy instructions, ESPECIALLY after having read other comments. I'd say BEWARE, and look at a variety of resources to get a much more comprehensive picture.
Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod, which means that you must not try to unscrew them vertically. If you do there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus look carefully with a torch to see at what angle you have to unscrew them.
Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod. That means that if you try to unscrew them vertically, there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus, look carefully with a torch to see exactly at what angle you need to unscrew them safelly.
Everything was good up to this point. I could barely see the screws and ended up stripping them. Just gave up at this point and threw the
Ipod on the ground and stomped on it.
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the outer case and the display retainer.
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Use the tool to slide the display assembly out of the case slightly.
My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!
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Slide the display out of the Nano. It will move about .5" until the display data cable limits its travel.
instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm
Quote from pedalsandpicks:
instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm
If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.
The glass panel can be very difficult to get moving requiring a lot of downward force. I have found good old fashioned spit to be very useful here.Just lick both thumbs and rub on fingers until just sticky enough.
This willl move the glass.
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With the display pulled out of the case as much as possible, gently press on the lower edge of the glass panel until it pops in slightly (~1 mm).
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Use your thumbs on the lower edge of the glass panel to slide the glass down and into the case until the top edge pops up out of the case.
What is the "rear edge" of the nano? Can this be a bit clearer please? Maybe a video of this step would be a good idea. Then again, since Apple owns this site, I guess that's not gonna happen, is it?
I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.
You could do all these steps and really mess up your nano. Instead of disassembling the iPod, carefully remove the remnants of the old glass which I assumed you have cracked. With the new glass in hand CAREFULLY sand one edge of the glass evenly. I used my fine grinder on my dremel tool. After assuring a snug fit I removed the adhesive and installed the glass. Looks great and functional and I didn't ruin my iPod in the process. And when I said sand one edge I mean one of the edges that has a "lip" on it. The other lip you can slide right in and push gently down for a nice fit. Do not remove the adhesive until you are sure of a good fit. This is a quick fix for those who are too queezy to take apart their device.
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Lift the glass panel out of the Nano.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to separate the hold switch from the adhesive securing it to the top edge of the display.
Be extremely careful while doing anything around the screen. The slightest bit of pressure in the wrong direction and you will be replacing the screen along with the battery. I speak from experience.
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Peel back the Kapton tape covering the display data cable socket.
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While holding the light colored socket down with one finger, use the tip of a spudger to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the bottom of the Nano.
Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.
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Use an iPod opening tool to peel the display data cable off the thin metal plate attached to the display.
Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.
The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.
Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.
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Pull the display out of the Nano, minding the hold switch cable that may get caught.
WATCH THE HOLD SWITCH!! Be *sure* it is disconnected before pulling out the screen! (I've made that mistake too many times :P)
disconnected from what?
I never saw where it was connected to!
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the bottom bezel and the dock connector.
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Separate the bottom bezel from the adhesive securing it to the Nano and set it aside.
Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.
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Remove the three Phillips screws along the bottom of the Nano.
In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.
Any advice?
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Use an iPod opening tool to pry the aluminum dock bezel out of the Nano.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the battery from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board assembly and battery slightly out of the bottom of the Nano. Stop once it pops out a little bit.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the click wheel ribbon cable and its ZIF socket off the dock connector.
No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the headphone jack.
you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the click wheel ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Peel back the cable on both ends!
Quote from Mike:
You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!
Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD
There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?
Does anyone know of a source of mainboards for this Nano. Preferably in the European Community or China? Every other part seems to be available but this one.
I've even found dud mainboards for sale on the U.S. Ebay site. What on earth would anyone do with a faulty Maiboard?
TOOLS: I've ben reading a few commments regarding difficulty wth the screws. I was also told the Phillips screwdriver isn't a true Phillips but has an offset leg. Not having seen one I can't comment with any certainty.
However,being an improvisor,I've been doing very well with a couple of watchmakers screwdrivers.The flat blades are about 1mm across and made of hard blued steel. The sharp corners dig into the screw and push any glue out of the way. A phillips won't push though glue. I used to buy these in a small plastic box - usuallly on street markets.
Well... beware, this part is tricky ! the click-wheel ribbon stuck and get cut when pulling the battery+motherboard out. Too bad :(
Anyway it was "last chance" for my 7-years old blue nano, battery wasn't providing more than 15 minutes autonomy.
Too bad, it was my fist iPod and I liked it much than my new 7th gen'.
Your photos are showing the wrong cable being removed from the zip lock connector and freed, you are not showing that the cable coming from the click wheel is disconnected and freed. Your photo is showing that the cable from the logic board is disconnected and freed. This means that when the logic board is removed, the cable to the click wheel breaks. Your text and warnings are correct, but your photos are misleading. Very bad compared to the rest of the instructions in steps 1 - 16, which are excellent and better than anything else I found. A shame to spoil it with this step. It is not sufficient to warn in the text that “both ends of the cable need to be freed”, you have to add a photo showing the click wheel cable has been disconnected and freed (and what do you mean by both ends of the cable need to be freed - there are TWO cables, one to the logic board, one to the click wheel and you are showing the wrong cable to the logic board as being freed.
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Pull the logic board assembly out of the outer case, minding the hold switch and click wheel cables that may get caught.
My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.
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Peel the hold switch cable from along the edge of the battery and lay it aside. The hold switch cable is not attached to the battery.
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Pry the battery off the adhesive securing it to the metal tray on the logic board.
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Start working from one side of the battery ribbon cable. In our case, we started on the left. Heat the leftmost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board.
i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.
Quote from iTronics Repair:
i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.
I did it this way and lifted the center trace off the board. Now the logic board will need to be replaced.
THIS WAY COULD BE BETTER!
In the course of soldering on the new battery, I bridged a couple of the tiny pads. In my attempt to fix, I delaminated the tiny pads from the new battery's lead. So I reattached the old battery's circuit and leads, and then soldered the new battery (cut from its board) to the old battery circuit.
To do this, simply remove the tape from the end of the battery, unfold the leads, and unsolder the two pads that connect the battery to its board. Do the same with the new battery, and then solder the two leads from the new battery to the old board.
I believe this is an easier way of fixing (assuming the battery is dead, and the circuit attached to the battery is fine, as mine was. My wife dropped the ipod in water).
When desoldering, you should REALLY be using braid instead of just "pulling up". That makes it 100x easier.
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Repeat the previous step for each of the two remaining pads, working either right to left or left to right.
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Lift the old battery out of the nano and set it aside.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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13 Yorum
There is one small point which is worth a mention here.After disconnnecting the screen by flicking up a little black bit on the ZIF Connector, I went on to open the next ZiF (The Click Switch)
Yes- bits of ZIF connector everywhere.I actually had to examine a new Click Switch circuit carefully to find that this one is different.
Yes - you flick the White bit. Do apple do this just to keep us on our toes?
I tried what Bradley suggested because it really seems easier than to solder the new battery to the iPod circuit board, which is really tiny. Still I couldn't do it. The battery pads are very fragile and I had an hard time folding the leads and the battery circuit board so that it looked the way it originally was. This was the part where I failed because afterwards I wasn't able to insert the battery plus the iPod circuit board inside its case again and ended it breaking it.
When I soldered my battery in I first touched the top and bottom of the pads on the new battery with flux and then added a little solder to the top and bottom of the pads. When I put the pads in place I only had to apply a quick touch and it soldered on perfectly.
Overall it was a real pain! :)
After 3 hours of hard work I did it !
It's the first time I try such a job, and I found it "quite easy" to change the battery with the guide. Just follow the pictures and you'll be done.
The hard work for me was the solder part - and a friend of mine gave me a hand as he was more used to do this.
You can do it, it worth a try :)
Was able to do it, but got lucky with the soldering working out before I burned it beyond repair. If you're going to do this I recommend getting the toolkit! Or at least having an exacto knife, very tiny phillips screwdriver, and tweezers and PATIENCE. Also be sure to have a very sharp tip soldering iron, and I used .032 soldering wire - but a bit smaller would work too. Also the most important thing is be able to see very small close up details, or use reading glasses or a microscope. Honestly if I had to do it again, I wouldn't - but I love the scroll wheel on the 4th gen over the touch screens and also wanted a challenge. Be prepared to fail, but do your best! Good luck.
Awesome directions.
I have soldered for almost 20 years, for occasional hobby stuff. I'm nowhere near an expert (some people are amazing!), but I am quite experienced. I have a good power soldering iron with interchangeable tips. I've also repaired countless phones, ipods, computers, etc. But this stupid thing kicked my butt. I hate dealing with such tiny components, and I hate dealing with Apple's fear of exposed fasteners.
Just buy a new one at this point.
Great instructions. Very easy job to complete if you work carefully and follow each step. Pictures were a big help. If you are not experienced with a soldering iron, I recommend getting help with this part. It is very easy to overheat these tiny components and make a mess of the whole job. Comments above seem to reinforce this point.
Hello Chuck. I have a blue iPod Nano 4th Generation in perfect condition that needs a battery swap. I don’t have time to set aside to swap it yet don’t want to see it in a landfill. If you shoot me your address I’d be happy to send you this unit for you to keep if you don’t mind doing another battery swap. Kind Regards.
Dan Lee -
Is there anywhere Uk I can send this to be done by someone more expert ? I don;t want to tackle it myself. My son picked it up in a charity shop and it worked for a bit, but then died, defiantly the battery problem.
Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.
captcarl13 - Yanıt