Hola Juan C. en tu licuadora si lo que se oyes un zumbido pero no se oye girar el motor, (cuando gira se nota porque es mucho más ruidoso, lo más probable es que se haya dañado el bobinado del motor por sobrecalentamiento, es muy típico en este tipo de máquinas donde el motor está muy compactado con la carcasa y no tiene a penas ventilación. lo único que puedes probar es con la maquina desconectada si el eje del motor gira con facilidad, si ya eso no gira no es posible la reparación implica cambio de motor, tristemente este tipo de aparatos de cocina están ideados para usar y tirar, la mayoría no son desmontables y caso de poder desmontar localizar repuesto pero sobretodo localizarlo a un precio aceptable, es tarea prácticamente imposible, porque a los fabricantes no les interesa, comercializar los repuestos y que los aparatos se puedan reparar.

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This phone is almost certainly still carrier-locked to Boost; the U mark indicates it is a carrier SKU sold to the carrier to resell which ends up SIM-locked (for obvious reasons). 1U is the same as the U phones in this regard, so both are SIM-locked and sometimes used interchangeably as needed. The ONLY phones from Samsung without a SIM lock are the U1 phones which cannot be carrier-locked to anyone due to how the radio firmware works on these; they will refuse to lock to a carrier as the command is disabled at the radio level.

Samsung uses the same line for all of their phones with the same boards; the differences are in the ROM, radio firmware being tweaked a bit and carrier-locked status. Generally, U phones are sold "locked" and were done that way at the factory, 1U can be locked at the factory, a dialer command I don't know or care to, or based on the first SIM installed (the carrier who sold it to you, similar to the Apple reseller flex policy used by every reseller except Apple unless it is financed through AT&T).

Help dvd player comb avd pin

Running but not cold.

Samsung galaxy a50 power buttan not working

Hi @zion86944

I'm having problems sourcing information regarding the refrigerator but check if you can hear a fan running inside the freezer compartment when the compressor motor is running.

With most refrigerators that have only one evaporator unit, there's a fan inside the freezer compartment located near the evaporator unit (behind a panel at the back of the compartment - access it through the door at the front of the refrigerator - i.e. remove the panel) and it blows air across the freezing evap unit and into the refrigerator compartment to cool it down to the desired temperature.

The freezer is cold because that's where the evap unit is located.

The fan should stop when a door is opened (either door) and start again when the door is closed. The fan will run as long as the compressor is running as well.

If you can't hear the fan at all then there may be a problem with the fan, the power supply to the fan, the control board or it could be that the fan is completely iced up due to a defrost problem.

With auto defrost refrigerators (I don't know if yours is because I can't find any info on it) the compressor motor is stopped every 8-10 hours and the defrost heater under the evap unit is turned on to melt any accumulated ice off the unit to drain away.

The defrost cycle lasts for about 20-25 minutes after which the compressor is turned on again

If the fan is iced over then it could be due to a faulty defrost heater, defrost thermostat, defrost timer (or control board) or a blocked drain.

You may have more luck if you search for Hisense R-Z270AUK7K parts than I did. At least if you find any suppliers they might have a list of what parts are available if you do find out what's wrong.

Sorry that I can't be of more help.

I know this question was asked a good many years ago, but I found it just now and decided to comment for the next viewers. I hardly use my joy cons, preferring to dock with a pro controller, I had left both joycons in the original grip to float around the house till I needed them again. Only to find that the right would register, but not charge. My first thought was the rail … and I bought a new rail. I took the left battery to try it in the right, and I found it wasn't an issue of both rails. I then took the right battery and placed it in the left controller … yeah, I need a new battery. Plus side of the new rail, it doesn't release as easily as my white box original rail did, I'll be keeping it. Btw, batteries are easy to change with a pair of pinpoint tweezers. You may want to connect the terminal before putting the battery in its place if the wires are not twisted for it's appropriate side already. Just make sure you don't try to connect it backwards, if it is not an easy fit, try the other side.

Yeah...no that's been killed.