I am a big fan of Deathadder mice. They are big bigger than they should be to fit my hand, but the "bulkiness" is just perfect for comfortable palm resting during longer computer activity sessions.
I have 3 of them already, two oldest are still going strong and I still use them - believe it or not, your productivity goes through the roof if you swap (cheapest possible) mouse your company provides you with some proper tool! Imagine the accuracy when you chase and click interface at your company's database! ;-) Unfortunately wheels are acting up. When you scroll up or down, it either does not register the movement or chaotically moves page up and down. Since I know more people having this exact same problem with Razer mice, it seems to be more common. And why throw 2 perfectly good mice out when there may be possibility to fix this certain problem? I asked interwebs and found some possible scenarios and solutions as to where problem lies.
Having nothing to loose, I tried this one: http://www.overclock.net/t/1292857/razer...
Opening was pretty easy. I carefuly removed 2 front feet, they are thicker but can deform pretty easily. It is possible to remove them and keep the glue for sticking them back. Third screw is under Razer brand sticker.
Next I separated top and bottom parts, they go away easily, no need to force them just need to find the right grip. Disconnected 2 cables, one ribbon and one for LED light. I used red marker to mark pin 1 on both cable and board, for easier assembly.
3 screws are holding circuit board with sensors and wheel. Removed those and carefully pried it from top mouse cover. As you can see, after years of use some dirt gathered inside. Compressed air, cotton buds, alcohol and tweezers took care of that. I took the wheel out and cleaned it under water. Then I used tweezers to carefully squeeze wheel sensor as described in post I found on internet.
Finally I assembled it back together, put rubber feet back and connected mouse to computer
Voila - mouse wheel is working again!
3G version I have (with white lights) has fewer screws inside holding circuit boards, and ribbon cable is soldered preventing you from separating those 2 boards. But process is the same, just be more careful when cracking mouse apart.
I took pictures of oldest mouse. It's like 6 years old now, maybe first or second generation. It is 1800 DPI compared to current 3500/6400 versions and I have a feeling it is more reliable than newer ones. At least it kept going longest without any problems.