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We have another Nintendo teardown for you U. We got our hands on the Wii U, and despite the temptation to escape into the world of Super Mario, our spudgers got the better of us.
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Neye ihtiyacın var
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Yes, we love tearing devices apart, but the TV-shattering, Wii Remote-related accidents around the office are getting out of hand. It's time to explore alternative remote options, and what better place to start than the Wii U?
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IBM Power®-based multi-core processor
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AMD Radeon-based High Definition GPU
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8 GB or 32 GB internal storage with external USB storage and external USB hard drive support
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6.2 inch, 854 x 480 pixels LCD touch-screen with motion control and front-facing camera
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Near-Field Communication (NFC) functionality
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What's this? A secret coin that Mario left behind?
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Sadly, it's just the CMOS battery. However, we won't judge you if you run and jump on a flagpole.
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Hidden screws won't keep us out; some quick sticker removal and a turn of the screwdriver free the top case.
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Need some killer tools yourself? Wii've got what U need.
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We see a familiar face as the top case comes off.
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There is nothing initially surprising as we get our first glimpse of the U. The optical drive and heat sink dominate the majority of the console's internal Wii-al estate, and are considerably beefier than those found in the Nintendo Wii.
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The device is pretty simple so far, but has no shortage of screws. There's no adhesive holding the U together, but were it not for our Magnetic Project Mat, all of these screws could get out of hand. So far we have encountered both Phillips and Tri-point screws, nothing our 64 Bit Driver Kit can't handle.
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After some unscrewing, the front panel pops right off.
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Hmmm… This optical drive feels really heavy. It appears much larger than most optical drives, so we take it to the scales!
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424.2 grams! That means that the optical drive accounts for nearly a third of the 1.5-kg device.
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We suspect that the large optical drive may be a by-product of the larger motherboard underneath. A case expansive enough to accommodate the motherboard leaves some extra room for a bigger optical drive.
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Unlike other game consoles with strict space requirements, the antennas in the Wii U have a much more relaxed layout and are held in place with tape.
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Nintendo obviously wasn't concerned with making the smallest box possible, so they didn't worry about rigidly packing relatively small antenna cables in designated slots as we've seen in handheld consoles such as the 3DS and the PS Vita.
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Next to come out are the fan and heat sink.
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Nintendo designers explained that the larger fan and heat sink were necessary to handle the nearly tripled heat output from the new ICs.
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With the heat sink off, we get closer to the CPU and GPU, called the Wii U's multi chip module (MCM), still hidden beneath a thermal pad.
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Thanks to the upgraded AMD GPU, the Wii U boasts HD graphics up to 1080p.
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Nintendo has come a long way over the years, considering that we remember when Mario had fewer bits than our old 26-bit driver kit.
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With the wireless modules out, we get right to examining them.
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Broadcom BCM43237KMLG Wireless LAN module
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Broadcom BCM43362KUB6 802.11n Wireless Module—the same one used in the Roku 2 XS
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Broadcom BCM20702 Bluetooth 4.0 module
Which Module is used for the gamepad?
I think that BCM43362KUB6 is actually BCM43362KUBG
I am looking for a way to play wii u without the high frequency radiation. Can i play wii u without the wireless modules, e.g. only with "wii u pro controller" and for internet a "lan adapter"?
A 5ghz WiFi signal and Bluetooth 4 do not cause any harmful ionising radiation. Only radiation found in microwaves, x rays, solar rays and other frequencies higher than light are.
if you think 5ghz is “high frequency” red light has a frequency of 430,000ghz. A red led does more than WiFi, its safe to take of the foil hat and go wireless :)
ysittas -
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The shields are down! A quick pass with a heat gun and we get our first look at the CPU and GPU, both covered in ample thermal compound.
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GPU: AMD Radeon™-based High Definition GPU.
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CPU: IBM Power®-based multi-core processor.
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We believe Nintendo placed these ICs close to one another to reduce latency and power consumption.
what temperature must the head gun be set to? and what kind to spudger must be used to do it?
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IC U! The notable players on the motherboard:
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Panasonic MN864718 HDMI Controller
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Samsung KLM8G2FE3B eMMC 8 GB NAND Flash/Memory Controller
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Micron D9PXV (MT41K256M16HA-125) 4 Gb DDR3L SDRAM (4 x 4 Gb for a total of 16 Gb or 2 GB RAM)
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DRH-WUP 811309G31
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Fairchild DC4AY
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SMC 1224EE402
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Samsung K9K8G08U1D 4 Gb (512 MB) NAND Flash
I'd just like to point out that the LCD screen on the gamepad isn't fused to the digitizer like it says above. It is actually attached with an adhesive strip that can be removed easily with a spudger.
My gamepad was dropped and the LCD screen shattered, but the digitizer was fine. So, I was able to order a new LCD screen (from eBay), tear down the gamepad, separate the broken LCD from the digitizer, reattach the new screen to the digitizer (using the existing adhesive strips) and it works like brand new.
Nintendo has done a great job making this gamepad easily repairable.
As pointed out here the NAND chip isn't 512MB (4Gb) but 2x512MB (for a total of 8Gb). I've submitted an edit to step 12.
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A readily available Phillips #00 screwdriver grants us access to the Wii-chargeable battery.
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The 3.7 V, 1500 mAh rechargeable battery is only good for about 3-5 hours of gameplay, but is easily charged using the included external wall charger.
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Good news for those looking to extend their playtime—there's plenty of room in the battery compartment for an upgraded pack.
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Nintendo. You're silly. Trying to hide your screws from us? Though clever, the screws are still hiding in plain sight.
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A deca-plethora of hidden and recessed Tri-point screws are inevitably no match for our trusty tools. Some of the screws are very recessed, forcing us to use the included 4 mm nut driver attachment to extend the length of our 54 Bit Driver. It works perfectly, and we are in!
Hey @captainsnowball please leave teardowns as they are. They’re more a historical archive of an event than a repair manual. If you click the link to the 54-bit driver, it will automatically take you to the 64 bit driver kit.
To answer your question, most likely, but I’m not sure.
No. The tri tip bit from the 64bit kit does NOT reach the recessed screws. Feel like I just wasted my money.
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We make the Wii U GamePad controller spill its guts.
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The larger *gasp!* controller on the U is a design choice, comfortably accommodating the screen, buttons, and circuitry with room to spare.
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Surprisingly, Nintendo fills the controller with—earmuffs, Cupertino—empty space; apparently size does matter.
What is the wire connecting From the back panel to the mother board and how would I go about replacing it?
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This button casing is wrapped in blue ribbon cables and switches for the ABXY button pad.
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With the button casing out of the way, we get to the first of the dual analog joysticks.
That type of molex connectors do they use to connect the analog sensor board to the main motherboard used in the tablet
The type of 5 pin molex connectors does Nintendo use to connect the analog sensor board to the motherboard on the Wii U tablet.
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Button, button, who's got the button? The U doesn't...well, not anymore.
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The rubber backed ABXY, D-pad, start/select, Power, TV, and Home buttons coming flying out of the Wii U.
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Separate button groups are good news for the button mashers among us, as each unit will be relatively quick and inexpensive to replace.
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The Wii U loses its ability to communicate with near fields as we remove the NFC module and antenna.
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What awesome functionality did this bring to the console?
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Well, as of launch day…none.
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In the future, we might see loading saved games or importing characters from cards or action figures, like in this demo.
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There are two prominent ICs on the NFC communications board:
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Broadcom BCM20792 KMLG NFC controller
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T130 MsEU crystal oscillator
“In the future, we might see loading saved games or importing characters from cards or action figures.”
This statement aged like fine wine.
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Pulling out this (third) dual-antenna wireless module is starting to feel pretty routine.
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The board is powered by a Broadcom BCM4319XKUBG.
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This module is likely part of a new system Nintendo and Broadcom co-designed to wirelessly stream video and data between the Wii U console and GamePad controller.
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Just a few more components block our path to the 6.2-inch touch screen display.
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First out are the dual antennas that transfer the GamePad controller's wireless signal back to the Wii U console.
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The microphone and remaining speaker were previously blocked in place underneath the motherboard, but are now easily removed.
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In what can only be hailed as a win for repair enthusiasts, the display assembly lifts off the GamePad's front case without any resistance from adhesive.
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However, it seems the LCD is fused to the digitizer. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
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The display assembly is labeled as NB-F9C AE1 013.
The LCD and Digitizer are definitely not fused. There is a layer of rubbery adhesive around the outside edge of them, holding them together, but no heat was even required to remove it. Source: Just fixed one my kid broke.
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- No components were held in by adhesive, including the display assembly in the GamePad controller.
- Most components in both the console and GamePad controller can be replaced independently of their respective motherboards.
- The battery in the GamePad is easily accessible and replaceable.
- Once the Tri-point screws have been removed from the top case, minimal prying effort is required to open.
- Some of the screws on the GamePad controller are very recessed, requiring a longer Tri-point bit, or in our case, a 4 mm nut driver attachment.
- The inclusion of Tri-point screws prevents easy access to internal components.
- The GamePad controller's LCD and digitizer are fused together, increasing repair costs.
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Onarılabilirlik Puanı
(10 en kolay onarılabileni)
18 Yorum
Sweet as usual
Next can we get the pro controller torn down, have mod want do when i get my wiiiiiiiiiUUUUU
BUT Depends on pro controller circuit board.
I just SUCCESSFULLY finished a drive swap with an eBay replacement.
YOU DO HAVE TO SWAP THE OLD LOGIC BOARD FROM THE BROKEN DRIVE TO THE NEW DRIVE. If you don't you will get the error code 160-1402.
It's not bad. Just remove the 7 screws to release the assembly from the bottom cover.
The logic has a small sensor board (?) hard wired to it. Remove the screw that holds it in place and replace with along with the old board.
There are 4 tape cables. the wide one has a clamp connector. the others can be seated with tweezers.
The card is loosely held in place with a black tab in the front and a movable, silver tab in the back.
Low humidity areas please use a ESD armband. it is a logic board. Or just handle the outer edge of the card and nothing else.
On more thing. The tape cable from the assembled drive to the Wii U is directional. Meaning the cable needs to attached exactly the way it came out or you will get the 1400 error.
Worked for me. Hope this helps
Just wondering what part of the control has the region lock? i have a brocken pal and a new ntsc controll my joystick and lcd are brocken on the pal control
I just replaced the LCD the other day and the digitizer simply peels off.
Ok so I took my wii u gamepad apart to fix the screen my daughter broke. However when I put it back together the wii u battery decided it didn't work anymore I tried everything I could finally I decided it could just be the battery so I ordered a new battery but sadly it is still not working please help I'm trying to fix it for my kids before Christmas they love the wii u.
Anyone could tell me what is the resistance values of r30,r29,r28,r31 and r27 , next to of emmc memory , i appreciate all your help , thanks:
How do you place back the volume switch?? Correctly
Which one of these is for the module for control pad?:
Broadcom BCM43237KMLG Wireless LAN module
Broadcom BCM43362KUB6 802.11n Wireless Module—the same one used in the Roku 2 XS
Broadcom BCM20702 Bluetooth 4.0
The wireless n chip, Broadcom BCM43362KUB6
The module for gamepad is the model: MIC-B2 (5GHz) (BCM43237KMLG).
The module for wifi is the model: WIN-A2 (2.4GHz) (BCM43362KUBG).
The module for bluetooth is the model: WIN-B2 (BCM20702).
Es posible aumentar la memoria ram?
No, no es posible aumentar la memoria RAM, son chips soldados en placa sin modulo de expansión. Lo único que se puede aumentar es la memoria FLASH mediante tarjeta SD, que permite mayor capacidad para instalar juegos.
