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  1. Oculus Touch Teardown, Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown, Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 2. Oculus Touch Teardown, Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 3.
    • Before we tear down, we take the opportunity to ogle the Oculus Touch system, which includes:

    • An additional Oculus Sensor

    • A Rockband adapter

    • Two IR-emitting Touch controllers with finger tracking and a mess of buttons

    my left controller Y and right controller B gets pressed in for longer periods while in game and i was able remove the top plate and 2 screws that are beside the plastic housing that holds A/B and X/Y but not able to remove those x/y and a/b buttons, how do i get to them, need it bad as my controllers have dents from hitting walls and cant RMA it now, thank you much in advance.

    talk_n_joy - Yanıt

    • Using our spectrespecs fancy IR-viewing technology, we get an Oculus Sensor eye's view of the Touch controllers.

    • While the twin black plastic halos are featureless to the naked eye, our camera sees the double rings of infrared LEDs residing beneath.

    • The LEDs, like those present in the headset, are arranged in distinct patterns, allowing the Oculus Sensor to pick out the headset and two controllers and determine their position and orientation.

    • Also, thanks to the not-quite-round shape of each controller, the sensor ought to be able to tell left from right—even after you've crossed your arms while playing Disappointed Parent Simulator 2016.

  2. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 3, 2 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 3, 2 resimden 2.
    • Thanks to a handy "eject" arrow, we're alerted that this Touch controller slides open just like any other remote.

    • The battery panel is secured by a pretty hefty magnet, and packs a rubber bumper to keep the battery nicely in place.

    • Said battery is a non-rechargeable but perfectly standard AA battery, which you can replace with a rechargeable at the first opportunity. Better these than a glued-in battery!

    • This chamber also hosts the model information and point of origin (hello, Dublin!)—plus, we're almost certain there'll be a screw under that sticker.

  3. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 4, 3 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 4, 3 resimden 2. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 4, 3 resimden 3.
    • There are indeed some hidden screws, but even after removing them we're not getting anywhere.

    • Looking around for another point of attack, we decide the top is as good a place as any. Smelling glue, we turn up the heat!

    • Prying up the control surface reveals gobs of glue, and the cause of our troubles: another hidden screw.

    • We may not be inside yet, but things are looking up. The Touch is already previewing some tech for us: switches, a metallic pad, and maybe even the first of many IR LEDs.

  4. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 5, 2 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 5, 2 resimden 2.
    • We're able to remove the final Torx screw with a turn of a Pro Tech Driver.

    • The side panel finally bites the dust, and we get our first real look at the internals.

    • The boards are densely layered inside these handhelds, but we've already got a peek at what might be a Taptic Engine linear oscillator?

  5. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 6, 3 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 6, 3 resimden 2. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 6, 3 resimden 3.
    • A few more screws later, the outer rim of the loop is still attached by a bunch of glue, so there's no recourse but to pry again.

    • No heat is required, just prying, as the adhesive is mild-to-medium flavored.

    • Uncovered, the single-cable LED array peels off fairly easily after being disconnected.

    • All 22 IR LEDs are conveniently labeled, and there's even a barcode. Cross your fingers for Oculus-provided replacement parts!

  6. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 7, 2 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 7, 2 resimden 2.
    • As we continue on our quest to dismantle the Touch, we strip off the battery caddy.

    • Digging a little deeper into the handheld's handle, we find this cute little power distribution board ... that we can't remove without a soldering iron.

    • Y u no connectors, Oculus?

  7. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 2. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 3.
    • In addition to a handful of passive components, we spy a couple of empty solder pads—perhaps to make custom LED hacks a little quicker.

    • Besides motherboard interconnect and vibrator sockets, we also spy a hexagonal test-point array, accessible from the bottom of the battery caddy.

    • The haptic vibration motor takes a little more work (heat and prying) to extract—it's well-secured with glue.

    • Everyone seems to be going linear-oscillator these days—iPhones, MacBooks, Pixel phones, and now VR controllers. Haptics—the simulated feel of the future.

    • Monolithic Power Systems MP3414DJ 1.8 A synchronous step-up converter

  8. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 9, 3 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 9, 3 resimden 2. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 9, 3 resimden 3.
    • The joystick board appears the be the brains of this operation, it's packed solid with silicon and switches.

    • And two big ol' springs for the XY/AB buttons—probably so they're not too stiff, or too soft, but juuuust right.

    • Teardown Update: After some further research and a burn from the soldering iron, we learned that these springs are meant to close the capacitive sensing circuit used in the buttons.

    • Chips! Some of these guys look oddly familiar ...

    • Nordic Semiconductor nRF51822 Bluetooth Smart and 2.4 GHz proprietary SoC

    • Analog Devices AD7147 single-electrode capacitance sensors controller

    • Invensense MPU-6500 6-axis combo gyroscope and accelerometer

    • Analog Devices (formerly Linear Technology) LT8330 inverting converter w/ 1 A power switch

    After some poking around, I’m pretty sure U9 and U10 are ratiometric HALL sensors to provide the analog inputs of the trigger and hand lever.

    Nixie - Yanıt

  9. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 10, 2 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 10, 2 resimden 2.
    • Last (but not least!), we peel up an action-packed ribbon cable. All told we uncover:

    • Two more IR LEDs—bringing the per-controller total up to 24, the exact number found in the Vive controller.

    • An LED that shines through the top of the controller, presumably as a visible light status LED.

    • A final switch for the Oculus or menu buttons, depending on which controller you're looking at.

    • A spring contact for the conducting pad that turns the "thumb rest" into a capacitive button.

    • This allows players to give a thumbs-up in game, which is pretty important.

  10. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 11, 2 resimden 1. Oculus Touch Teardown: adım 11, 2 resimden 2.
  11. Son Düşünceler
    • Battery replacements are quick and easy with a magnetic cover being the only barrier to entry.
    • There are only T5 and T6 Torx screws in the Touch controllers, making screwdriver selection seamless.
    • Accessing the Touch controller internals requires fighting through a thick layer of adhesive.
    • The joystick, button bases, and battery connections are soldered directly to a board and require soldering knowledge to repair.
    • Navigating through the tabs, adhesive, and hidden screws is not intuitive and could result in damage during disassembly.
    Onarılabilirlik Puanı
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    Onarılabilirlik 10 üzerinden 5
    (10 en kolay onarılabileni)

18 Yorum

The 'Big ol spring' the buttons use is the conductive path for the capacitive sensing for the face buttons.

Could you add an extra shot of the underside of the button housing, so we can see the cam profile the 'grip' trigger uses to modulate spring force?

Edward Zieba - Yanıt

Agreed, more photos of the housing, analog stick and buttons between step 9 and 10. Thanks!

Colter Cederlof -

there is an issue right now which will effect everyone where the trigger makes a loud noise. how do we fix it

Playlanco - Yanıt

analog stick broke down where can i find some one to replace it

robertoizquierdo66 - Yanıt

There are reports of a common problem with the Oculus Touch trigger. With time a rubber dampener will come loose (it is probably only glued) and the trigger will exhibit a loud noise when used. This can occur from anything between a few hours to months of use, depending on how hard/vigorously the trigger is pressed/used. Later squeaking noises may also develop, due to axial play caused by the lack of dampening.

I have tried to locate the rubber dampener from the images provided in the teardown. This is my best guess, but proper verification is needed:

http://sv.tinypic.com/r/2ewcmr8/9

ronalderik78 - Yanıt

i've opened my oculus touch controllers, it is very easy to open and i fixed the Triggers Noise.

the rubber is glued behind the trigger to the case. i've cut out a little bit of sponge and fitted and glued inside (don't glue with some serious glues so you wouldn't damage the case and the next time you can take it out and put something different if it wouldn't work good for you) hope i helped.

why i fix my controllers myself? because i bought my controllers brand new on gumtree for £80 :) but without receipt,

i used the controllers for about a month and the problem started to occur.

after fixing myself now the triggers are more silent then they was before :) even when i toke them out brand new from the box :)

Senator 3211 - Yanıt

More details please, I have the same issue and don't want to send for replacement. Did you have to remove the top panel (where the buttons and thumb rest is) or could you get straight to the trigger?

Tommy Carlsson -

Hey Senator. What was the actual issue in your case to begin with? Did the rubber fall out of place? Did it wear out?

Albert Kart - Yanıt

Went to it and opened the controller myself to fix the "sticky button" syndrome (I live far away from easy RMA's). The only tricky part was removing the top cover that has been glued. Used hair dryer to soften the glue and then carefully peeled it off. The rest are just screws, no need to touch the "led ring" or those screws at all. When assembling it back together, you will have to remove the battery compartment to re-attach at cord on the back of the "button" electronics board. The amount of glue on the top plate lends itself to just re-attach it back in position when done.

The problem seems to be a small (3 times 5 millimeter-ish) rubber pad behind the trigger button that has been glued to a flat area, but then becomes unstuck and wedges itself a little off, or somewhere else.

Tommy Carlsson - Yanıt

For those who don't want to dismantle:

My right trigger stuck today. Used a piece of thin cardboard (from a paper roll) and worked it right around the trigger until I found the blockage and pushed it in, now is back to being fine. There is a rubber grommet that comes off inside.

You could use a thin strip of plastic also.

Lets see how long it takes for the left to stick... big design issue.

Anton Gredziuk - Yanıt

If you want to fix a squeaky spring, take a 1"x1/2" strip of paper, put a few drops of WD40 on the end, push the trigger button, and rub the paper around the top left and right sides inside. Surprisingly this worked even though I have no idea what I was lubricating. But it was so little WD40 applied so gently that I'm not concerned with any long term effects.

Jono Spiro - Yanıt

I smashed my left analogy stick of today playing robo recall. I'm just going to glue a replacement onto the remaining stick as it still functions. However there is a tiny cable with numbers on one side which the thumb rest is dangling from. I'm worried if I cut it to remove the thumb rest it may mess up the controller.

Should I cut the wire or take the thumb rest piece apart?

Thanks

Rudi

Rudi Marschall - Yanıt

I knocked the thumb of tonight. It still functions so I'll just glue a replacement on the remaining stick. However the thumb rest is dangling from a flat wire with numbers on one side. Will it be bad if I cut the wire?

Thanks in advance

Rudi Marschall - Yanıt

I just want a stiffer spring on the grip it is too mushy.

Trever Grissam - Yanıt

I had a loose trigger, so I took it apart and discovered that the pin holding the trigger in place was not inserted properly. I bought it yesterday, so this is not a ‘coming loose’ problem, but a ‘incorrectly assembled’ problem.

So far so good… Now I am putting it back together. I have done it several times and all the parts fit fine, except the little ribbon tape that comes from the battery compartment and fixed to the electrical board. No matter how often, or how hard I try, the tape ‘plug’ will not stay in the board ‘socket’.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Daniel

Daniel Dyboski-Bryant - Yanıt

The capacitative sensing circuit in the 2 face buttons uses a rubber membrane with a pad that completes the circuit when depressed. A common problem with these controllers is this pad leaves a residue on the sensing contacts over time, requiring desoldering of the whole button assembly to clean the contacts. The pad also degrades as this residue is deposited. The end result is a button that thinks it’s always pushed. Is there a way to replace this pad? The work required just to clean the contacts is significant and risky, so it would be nice to put a new pad/membrane in place while everything is open, but I have no idea how to specify such an item to order.

John J Ewan - Yanıt

im having a problem with my right touch controller where it just completely shut off, it wont get electricity out of the battary and just wont work please help ,me someoen

orel Gabai - Yanıt

Can you help me find replacement outer rings? One of ours is broken

Rich Clough - Yanıt

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