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  1. Razer Kishi Teardown, Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown, Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 2. Razer Kishi Teardown, Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 1, 3 resimden 3.
    • Let's see what the Razer Kishi brings to the smartphone gaming ... game.

    • Standard A-B-X-Y buttons, two clickable analog thumbsticks, one 8-way D-pad, plus a shoulder button and a trigger button on each side)

    • Direct connectivity to your phone via USB-C or Lightning connector (depending on which model you buy)

    • This enables charging while gaming via the passthrough USB-C port on the bottom of the Kishi

    • No internal battery, no Bluetooth, and no headphone jack

    • Compatible with Android 8 Oreo/iOS 9 or higher, supporting device dimensions of 145.3–163.7mm (H), 68.2–78.1mm (W), and 7.0–8.8mm (D)

  2. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 2, 3 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 2, 3 resimden 2. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 2, 3 resimden 3.
    • Two slide locks on the back of the Kishi secure both halves of the controller, keeping it compact when there's no phone attached.

    • Pulling outward on both inserts releases the clip, so you can extend both sides of the Razer Kishi until your phone fits in between.

    • You may have to remove your phone's case. That's what we call gaming on the edge.

    • Game time started—we blast off ten Tri-point screws from the rear side. Thankfully we came equipped with 64 bits of Mako Driver Kit goodness. We're leveling up already!

    • Beneath the back cover, we find two Steam-ish booby-trap interconnect cables—each one snaking off to a separate circuit board.

  3. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 4, 2 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 4, 2 resimden 2.
    • Instead of the tricky Tri-points found in other portable gaming options, we find regular Phillips #0 screws inside of the handles.

    • Normally each new level gets more challenging, but here it seems Razer gave us a break. Or is it just a distracting side quest? Regardless, we're happy to go on a Phillips fetch quest.

    • There's no boss battle here yet—just a couple boards, which we quickly extract.

  4. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 5, 2 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 5, 2 resimden 2.
    • The right board contains the following bijous:

    • Fresco Logic FL7102, USB3.1 Type-C PD3.0 Controller

    • Soldered-on USB Type-C charging port

    • Soldered-on joystick controller (hello Oculus Touch and Xbox One S)

    • Plug-in phone connector (in this model USB-C)

    • Soldered-on breakout board for one of the shoulder buttons

    • "Forward" button

    • Indicator LED

  5. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 6, 2 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 6, 2 resimden 2.
    • On the back of the board we discover:

    • ARM®32-bit Cortex®-M0 CPU

    • Broadcom (formerly SiByte) 4407 DA9N1S microprocessor

    • A breakout board for the second shoulder trigger, which is attached separately and is therefore easier to repair.

    • This one seems to use some sort of rotary knob offering not only an on/off status but a gradual push depth of the shoulder trigger.

  6. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 7, 3 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 7, 3 resimden 2. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 7, 3 resimden 3.
    • Extracting the left circuit board reveals:

    • Another joystick, which is also soldered in place

    • Four golden contacts for the D-pad (similar to the ones on the first circuit board)

    • Soldered-on shoulder button

    • Another shoulder trigger breakout board

    • "Back" button

    • "Home" button

    • Gamevice has rather unmistakably left its mark here—just in case you wondered with whom Razer partnered up for this controller.

  7. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 1. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 2. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 8, 3 resimden 3.
    • What remains is the telescoping slider mechanism that supports your phone when attached to the Kishi.

    • It includes a folding rubber cushion, which attaches to the back cover with small springs. That's what saves you from worrying about scratches on the back of your phone while gaming.

    • As you may have noticed, all external faces of the controller can be separated from the electrical components, which will make individual paint jobs a breeze!

  8. Razer Kishi Teardown: adım 9, 1 resimden 1.
    • Quest complete! That's one more adventure mastered. Is it time to start working on a speed run? Let's recap what we've learned:

    • Overall easy disassembly (with the right drivers). Some danger of losing small components and buttons. No ability to save your progress, so finish your homework and take out the trash before you start.

    • One final question: Can it post a high score?

  9. Son Düşünceler
    • No adhesive was used and components are attached with screws.
    • The controller's relatively modular construction means replacing most components will be a simple task.
    • One of the most strained parts—the phone connector—is plug-in and easy to replace.
    • We always say screw before glue. But using two different types of screws—one of them being Tri-point—is unnecessary and a bit annoying.
    • The most likely-to-fail components—both joysticks—are soldered directly onto the circuit boards, as is the passthrough USB-C charging port.
    Onarılabilirlik Puanı
    Onarılabilirlik 10 üzerinden 6
    (10 en kolay onarılabileni)


Nice teardown! Looks like a DIY Nintendo Switch with the phone on, even down to the joystick/main button locations.

Ethan Zuo - Yanıt

Very useful. I wonder if there's any unused traces on the ribbon cable: thinking of adding stereo speakers using a small Bluetooth module (though it seems rather packed).

sam_hardema - Yanıt

That’d be nice tinkering. Please share if you find anything.

Tobias Isakeit -

Huuu miy buena idea amigo compartirias el proyecto??? Para intentarlo serianear con sonido estereo

Gabriel Estrada -

Ubon BT40 kit

rmahor995 - Yanıt

I’m still wondering why Razer didn’t include support for USB-C headphones. Looking at the internals makes me wonder if it was more work to make it charge-only.

Lanford Gabriel Murillo - Yanıt

I wonder if those analog stick caps can be swapped for the ones from an actual Xbox One controller? I bet that would be an upgrade.

Josh Brackin - Yanıt

Please share if you tried that swap. I bet others wonder about that too.

Tobias Isakeit -

Any Luck with this swap? The rubbers have peeled off my sticks and Im looking for a replacement... just happen to have a few xbox sticks lying around from previous upgrades.

Shannon Cawthorne -

where can i buy spare parts for the pad?

Adrian - Yanıt

Unfortunately we don’t have spare parts for that controller. Hope you’ll get lucky on the interwebs.

Tobias Isakeit -

My kishi failed on me after 4 months. I can assess it was the passthru usb-c charging that caused it's demise. I noticed it was hot and unplugged it not being worried. Hours later I reconnected it with no input to be found. I'll probably never repair it but I enjoyed this teardown none the less…

я3ρ3ηтιν3 - Yanıt

Whats the white stuff on the spring of the trigger buttons?

Robert Torres - Yanıt

That white stuff is just some lubricant to make the triggers go swoooosh ;) (and not get jammed on its plastic guide rail)

Tobias Isakeit -

My communication flex has failed, where can I get a replacement? Or what are the characteristics of the flex?

NintenDub - Yanıt

well, I found the ideal flex for this game on AliExpress, it is 14 pins, with a difference of 0.5 millimeters between them and the direction of advance.

NintenDub -

Whats the dimensions of the analog? I wanna replace it with 3D flat analog, i really dont like the sticks ……

Cameei Webb - Yanıt

Hi @Cameei, we think it is the ThumbPointer stick with serial number RKJXV. Here is the matching data sheet: Have fun with the replacement!

Adriana Zwink -

Do you happen to know which pins are broken out on phone connector?

Brendan Coyne - Yanıt

You know what would be cool? If you make a tutorial of how to swap the usb C type port with a lightning port.

In that way, the ones that have to change from device like android to iphone and vice versa can easily do it without having to buy a new Kishi, and save some budget.

Ignacio Marambio - Yanıt

Yo compre uno de esos y a los dias dejo de funcionar un lado se podra arreglar. me imajino que talves el flex, pero no creo que vendan repuestos. alguien me podria ayudar o desirme como podria arreglarlo por favor

Gabriel Estrada - Yanıt

En caso de que se caliente o no se pueda cargar el teléfono a través del control se debe a que el chip Fresco Logic FL7102 se haya quemado y eso este causando la falla, en lo personal se puede seguir usando el control, pero no se podrá cargar el teléfono a través de él, las temperaturas serán incomodas al tacto y después de un tiempo dejara de funcionar.

Desconozco si existen repuestos para ese chip en específico.

Felipe Sepulveda - Yanıt

Hi Felipe, thanks for your comment. Unfortunately, we don’t have a source for replacement parts.
But I’ll paste an English translation of your comment for others, maybe somebody knows something and can help out.

In the event that the phone gets hot or cannot be charged through the control, it is because the Fresco Logic FL7102 chip has burned out and that is causing the failure, personally you can continue using the control, but you will not be able to charge the phone through it, the temperatures will be uncomfortable to the touch and after a while it will stop working.

I don't know if there are spare parts for that specific chip.

Tobias Isakeit -

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