Repairing water damaged phones is more miss than hit. Many, probably most, water damaged phones have actually very little internal damage. They usually fail simply because of the presence of liquid water in the device, shorting some important "lines" that keep the phone from booting, or displaying properly, or no touch...or any one of a hundred issues. Allowing these phones to dry (allowing the water to evaporate) usually solves the problem. That's why the rice myth is so prevalent. People put the devices in rice and then when it works, say it was the rice that absorbed the water. That's not really what happens ;-). However, a lot of devices are seriously damaged by water, especially when in contact with salt water or flavoured/sugared liquids. As the water/liquid evaporates, it can leave behind mineral deposits and cause corrosion which can damage components creating a permanent failure mode. The thing to keep in mind is that beyond the visible corrosion is everything you don't see. Most of the...

(in your case, assuming you have already tried 1 & 2, your original question would indicate that 3 & 4 are also done) In my experience, iPad charging issues follow this pattern: (1) Always try another Lightning cable and charger, preferably Apple original or MFi certified units. (2) The Lightning cable 8-pin connector should be sitting flush with the housing and completely inserted. If it is not, there could be lint/dust/debris inside the port impeding a proper connection. You can clean it out with a toothpick, fine point tweezers or a dental pick. Just be careful not to damage the pins inside the Lightning Port. (3) Check the battery condition with a software tool like 3uTools. If the battery shows signs or wear (less than 70-75% of design capacity), replace the battery. (4) Check the battery charging with a USB ammeter. If the battery isn’t drawing 1-2A, depending on the charger and charge state, it may be a bad battery or faulty charging circuit. (On older devices, it’s usually the battery ;>). (5)...

You have a major issue with the phone, most likely on the logic board. There is a slight possibility that it is a battery issue but overheating is usually related to a short of some kind on the logic board. Unless you have the skills or tools to troubleshoot this, you would be better off to have it looked at by a reputable repair shop that does some micro-soldering.

When it comes to reballing IC’s in iPhones/iPads or other smartphones, a solder paste and appropriate stencil is the best way forward. There are plenty of Youtube videos on how to reball IC’s using this technique. I do have an assortment of solder balls, ranging from 0.2mm up to 0.8mm that I use occasionally if only one ball is muffed up. IC’s have different pitches and sizes so you need to have a wide assortment. Those reballing large CPU’s, for example on gaming consoles, will prefer to use solder balls.

It could be a bad replacement battery. If the original battery was still usable, I would re-install it to see if the problem is consistent with the board or the battery. However, the symptoms look more like the battery SWI line was damaged. Look for damage in the area surrounding the battery connector. Sometimes components get damaged when lifting the connector and some of those connectors allow the battery to communicate it’s charge state to the CPU. When they are damaged or missing, the device behaves just like yours.

I don’t think this is problematic. The coil doesn’t seem affected but the picture is too blurry to say for certain. You don’t need to tape it up unless the coil is exposed.

Which screen did you purchase? iFixit, like all vendors, offers various screen quality levels. You can get a used original screen which will be an original screen pulled from another device or you can get the regular screens which are aftermarket screens. I haven’t purchased an iFixit screen in a while so I can’t say for certain but I would certainly expect an aftermarket screen to be of lower quality than an original or premium level screen. That said, iFixit does stand behind their products so contact Support and see what they say.

To do an Audio IC repair, you need both the soldering station and hot air station. The hot air station will allow you to remove, reball and solder the audio IC in place. The soldering station will allow you to make the micro-jumpers necessary to complete the repair. Of course, you can get the Quick Hot Air Station which is really good but much less expensive than the Hakko. However, for the soldering station, I highly recommend the Hakko. Of course, you also need flux, solder, tweezers, various consumables for cleaning etc. This is a considerable investment in cash but also time, don’t do your first micro-soldering repair on an otherwise good device…not to mention that the Audio IC is a deceptively difficult repair with plenty of gotcha’s that can turn your phone into a brick. If you do this, get some dead or iCloud locked phones and practice a lot first.

This definitely looks like a poor quality screen (as to be expected. from Amazon/eBay suppliers). It is possible you damaged something or screwed something too tight so you’ll want to double check that while your are at it. As for the LCD adhesive, once you open it up, the adhesive will peel away irregularly. This brings up an important point when doing screen replacements. Always text the screen with the phone partially assembled before you lock it in. There’s nothing worse than sealing the device before noticing an issue or a forgotten screw or shield :-(.

There are two things to unpack here. First, if the phone got stuck in a boot loop suddenly, what happened before that. Was the phone dropped, repaired or came into contact with water recently? Secondly, are you attempting a full DFU Restore or Update? iTunes Error 4013 is usually NAND related. Seeing as how this happened after an attempted Restore/Update, there is a strong possibility that the memory was corrupted. Was the device pretty much at it’s memory capacity