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Be careful that piston does not get cocked in the bore, it is possible to put the forcing screw through the piston dome if it binds. Might be safer to use the old inner pad as a push-block.
Hey! When did the new rotor arrive? And did you have to remove the caliper bridge to get at it?
If you can’t find the right height box or bucket, you may also hang the caliper from the strut spring with a bit of wire or a bungee cord. The main point is that you do not let the rubber hose support the weight of the unmounted caliper.
If you don’t have a big enough c-clamp, there is also the option to use a prybar. If you must go this route, pry between the outer pad and the rotor. Go through the middle of the caliper so that you are applying the force evenly. If you have to make room for the prybar, you can pry lightly between the ends of the pad’s backing plate and the rotor surface.
If you do have a c-clamp, the forcing screw goes against the outer pad (right in the middle where the notch in the caliper is), the fixed jaw goes against the back of the caliper. You’ll need a pretty big c-clamp.
Retracting the piston can also be done after the caliper is off, but it is usually best to do it now.