Hola, este problema es tipico de los honda... Debajo del volante, del lado del conductor hay un relay. Este relay envia una senal electrica a la pompa de gasolina para activarla y la pompa envia gasolina bajo presion a los inyectores. A veces, se recalienta este relay y hay que esperar que se enfrie otra vez despues de 5 a 10 minutos y luego arranca el carro. Adentro del relay hay puntos que estan soldados y con el tiempo se calienta haciendo que dichos puntos se expandan, perdiendo contacto. Esto evita que el carro prenda y arranque. Hay solo dos formas de reparar: la primera, soldar debidamente los puntos del relay, restableciendo contacto y la segunda opcion comprar otro main relay. Espero que esto le ayude, saludos

Underneath the emblem cover there is a spring and a connector. But before doing that check the fuse that controls that circuit. It may be blown, if it is replace it with the same amperage. The fuse is located in the box underneath the hood where all the other relays are located. It is a 15A fuse. If its not the fuse, we need to check the actual horn. You can test it by connecting a wire from the battery negative side to the red wire directly to the horn, but do not cross the wires as this can create a short and can cause damage. If the horn sounds then there is a problem underneath the emblem on steering wheel. You need to remove that first to get to the spring assembly. You may have to buy that part from Honda because it will be hard to find it as an aftermarket. You can also get it at a junk yard. Take a picture underneath the emblem and compare that to the part you have at the junk yard. Hope this helps..

There are many causes fir this. Start with the most simple to the most complex when diagnosis anything through the pricess of elimination: 1- check battery condition, make sure you have a good static charge of 12.4 or 12.6 V when car is off. Check battery terminals to see if they are very dirty, corroded or loose. Follow battery cables to main source make sure no corrosion. Check negative or ground cabke follow to source make sure the other end is tight and clean.. 2- inspect ignition switch for problems.. Sometimes car dies inmeduatey after turnibg on, typical of thus priblem 3- check ignition system: distributir coil, and igniter, cap and rotor, moisture can get there causing short curcuit.. Check with spark checker and look for spark 4- Check fuel injectors, maybe clugged due to carbon build up.. Replace them if necessary 5-- check for bad fuel filter, dirty or clugged.. Bad quality fuel.. Could also be an issue.. turn key to on position, you should hear a buzz sound indicating fuel pump is priming.....

When there is no spark, there is a problem with ignition system. Inside the distributor there is an ignator or ICM ignition control module and an ignition coil. But before you check them, confirm you have no spark by using a tester then hooking it up to a good metal ground and the other end to spark plug wire number one, the one next to the timing belt. Crank engine and if no spark comes out, then you may want to replace cap and rotor, as cap may be shorted out, then try to crank engine and it should run. Also, inspect ignition wires for any damage to them. Some people would replace the whole distributor, when in fact, they could.have easily replace one component within the distributor and save money in the process, but its your choice if you want to replace the whole distributor. Also, if you dont know how to troubleshoot ignition systems, then I guess replace whole distributor.

If, as soon as you start engine it shots off, the there might be a problem with fuel delivery to the engine, which could be a loss of significant fuel pressure, and or an ignition switch thats going bad. Usually on these vehicles its the ignition switch go bad most of the time. However, it doesnt mean it could also be a fuel delivery problem, like your injectors are clugged or the fuel filter is clugged. But, i would go first for the ignition switch. The ignition switch is underneath steering wheel, just have a mechanic check the resistance and to see if any volts go though it. Then, if its not the ignition switch, tell mechanic to check fuel pressure. But you can check it yourself, by losening upper bolt on fuel filter, this releases pressure, have a rag ready to pick up fuel, as it may pour out, then turn key or have someone turn key to ON position but DO NOT crank engine, if fuel comes out like its suppossed to then stops, like its designed to do that, then your problem its not fuel delivery to the...

Either the switch underneath the brake pedal has gone bad, or theres a short somewhere in the circuit. Brake lights bulbs have burned out, or fuse that protects those lights is blown, if so, replace fuse with same amperage.

First of all you need to pressure test the cooling system to see where exactly is leakege coming from. This process tests the integrity of the cooling system, by hooking up a pump into the radiator with the respective adaptor for your vehicle then pump up to 15 or 16 psi, Do Not exceed this pressure as you can damage even more the cooling system, then pay attention to the needle and see if presure drops significantly and if it does you cannot miss where the leak is coming from. A healthy cooling system should maintain 15 psi. Regarding the water pump, when they go bad. two main things happen: you hear a noise coming from the side your water pump is located , which could be the bearings on pump are going out and have failed, and also there is a weep hole where coolant comes out which means water pump is going bad. To test water pump, turn car on, squeeze upper radiator hose, hold for a few seconds, then release and if you feel a surge inside hose, it means the water pump is pumping coolant throughout...

From what I understood what you said the temp gage shows car overheating, but its not overheating. Then, it must be the gage temp sending unit thats giving a false reading or problem with the circuit on dashboard.

The oil light comes on, if the oil pressure switch senses a loss in oil pressure. The first step is to check for oil level on the dipstick. If the oil level is ok, then check the oil pressure sending unit, if the oil level is low add oil to proper level. Sometimes, the oil pressure switch or sensor goes bad activating the oil light on the dashboard. When you remove the oil pressure switch if you see it soaked with oil, replace the switch. The oil light should come off. It it doesnt then you need to test the oil pressure with a pressure gage, which should be 10 psi at idle and 60 at 3000 rpm, by hooking up the tester where the oil sensor lives. If the test does not meet the above, there might be an obstruction in the pick up tube, or the engine main bearings are worn out. Simply your engine is worn. Oil pressure is not generated by the oil pump, but by the clearinances between the moving parts of the engine, particulary the main bearings, cap bearings. The oil pump only moves volume. If this is your...

Well, one reason could be one of you brake lines is leaking fluid or your master cylinder seals are leaking making you to lose fluid. Also, if brake lights remains on all the time, there is a switch underneath the break pedal, it looks like a crayon, check on the floor and if you see pieces of it, it means its what remains of the switch. Without the switch, the brake light will always be on, confusing you into thinking that you are leaking fluid. You can place a small screw and a nut across in place of the switch, it does work. However, I advise you to buy the EOM part as it does not cost much.