A Haynes repair manual should have the entire removal procedure.

Make sure it is fully charged, and then hold down the single button to the right side of the screen until the unit buzzes. Then release the button. It should go into start up mode by saying Samsung, and then a little green robot should fly off into the distance. Let me know how it works out for you.

Mike, if memory serves me correctly, that Honda has fuel injection. That being the case, it sounds like your fuel pressure regulator isn't functioning properly. An electronic fuel pump is located in the gas tank. That pump gives off a constant pressure and that pressure is then regulated to the fuel delivery rail by allowing some of the pressure to bleed off back to the gas tank on a return line via the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated, so take a look along the fuel delivery rail for a sort of cylindrical apparatus with a vacuum line attached to it. Insure that the vacuum line is not cracked and leaking. Repair or replace that first if it's bad. You can check vacuum leaks with a hand vacuum pump available at most auto parts stores. Just make sure that line isn't leaking. Vacuum leaks can also present themselves as rough running (not smooth idles). The fuel pressure regulator is an easy replacement if it's bad. The fuel rail on your car is a shiny aluminum stick that...

Do you keep the Blackberry in question in your pocket, or on your belt. There's a good chance that if you routinely keep it in your pocket, a quantity of lint has crept in. You're going to need to take apart the entire case, and remove the keyboard pad. (it's a one piece jelly keypad). There aren't that many parts to the case, and there are video's on YouTube describing the tear down. Inspect for and then gently blow out the dust. Inspect the jelly keyboard also to insure that it is debris free. The trackpad issue has me a bit confounded, as the lint was a big problem with the track ball on the older model. I'm not sure about the trackpad. To disassemble the case you'll need a guitar pick or credit card to split the case, and I believe you'll need a small TORX screwdriver to remove a few screws.

Try the fuses. If memory serves me correctly, that particular fuse box is located under the dash near the drivers left foot. The fuse box under the hood is for larger items, so the fuse for the door lock isn't under the hood. I don't think you'll find the label for the door looks however, as I suspect that door lock circuit is part of another labeled circuit. So you're going to have to either see what else isn't working, and you'll have to check all the fuses. I'm giving this advise based on your description of the problem, in that you've said that none of the doors open or close. If it was isolated to a particular door, then I would say that a connector has broken, or that the solenoid has given up the ghost. That's why I've mentioned the fuses, and again, I don't think you'll find a descriptor on the fuse box cover that indicates just the door looks. If you do find one that says just door lock, then great, but be prepared to check them all. Good luck and let me know how it works out.

Are you using a Mac or PC? If you're using a Mac, get a hold of a program called Android file transfer. It's drag and drop easy. You access the phone via the software on a computer, and simply find the files you're looking for and drag and drop to save on you computer.

I hate these when they brake. Sometimes there are specialty tools involved, but all of the Haynes manuals I have show how to remove the regulator. The biggest problem is that it's not usually the regulator that is bad, it's usually the motor. I'm assuming that is the case with your car. Be careful, as there is a strong spiral spring that counterbalances the weight of the window. The problem with this repair is typically not the assembly, it is usually the putting it all back together. Have a roll of duct tape and a person to help you. The duct tape can be used to hold the window still in various positions on the track by using lengths of it wrapped over the top of the window frame and stuck to both the inside and outside surfaces of the glass. You can vary the position of the window, and thusly the position of the regulator rails as you assemble. Again, be careful with that spiral spring, and take notes or pictures of the way that spring is installed. Let me know if you need more help.

Most modern headlight assemblies are removed by taking off nuts in the back of the assembly. First disconnect the battery ground terminal. Then look behind the headlight assembly in question and look for threaded black colored metal posts with nuts on them. The post ends will look like a TORX screwdriver. They're built that way so that at the factory the assembly machine/person can drive the post into the plastic headlight assembly, and then insert the assembly and fasten the assembly with a plain nut. The nut is probably somewhere between a 10 and 12 mm. Be cautious of the wiring harness that powers the light, as usually there are several wires possibly in different locations on the assembly, so don't be too aggressive as you remove the assembly, as not only are there multiple wires, but you also may have missed a fastener. There is also a chance that you may only be able to see the nuts through holes in the headlight assembly bulkhead. Those headlight assembly bulkheads are part of the crumple zone...

In order of expense troubleshooting... Fuel filter, ~$25.00 Fuel pressure regulator, ~$55.00 Fuel pump, ~$550.00 Let me know how it pans out.

Vicki, check the gas cap first. Insure the gasket on the cap is not cracked, and if so, replace the entire cap. Get the cap at Auto Zone, as the dealer price is too high, and an aftermarket cap is very reliable. There are only so many connections in the vapor recovery system, so it should be fairly easy and not too expensive to have the dealer check it out. The EVAP system is a California regulation, and if that check engine light is on when you go to have it SMOG'd, you won't pass.