i keep a bottle of 95 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol with a small short bristle artists brush (1/4 inche wide flat type) to wash aside much of the debris and corrosion when i do electronic camera work.. when moisture gets in (it always does!) from perspiration, temperature changes, or 'left out in the rain", there will eventually be problems. storage conditions must allow for some free air flow to let any accumulated moisture release back into the atmosphere. all those perfectly tight camera cases will only keep moisture in if it is already there. batteries are a nightmare when they start to leak the corrosive chemicals that make them work, remove them!

take the sd card and put it into a laptop or other 'real' computer, then do a 'format' on it. use the 'FAT' method, leave the options to 'default', but check the 'quick format' setting.

excellent procedure. nice pix too. hint about those fragile flex cables is important, they are thinner than a human hair!

elph 310 hs-dust INSIDE the front lens element! my fault, shove camera in pocket with no protection!

anyone ever disassemble the lens unit itself? i once have taken one of the lens unit out, but never venture into the innards of that optical area.

dust seems to have migrated into the crevices between the telescoping rings, and also frequently jams the two outside leafs from fully closing.

still takes excellent images, except when doing macro closeups, then the particles show up on the results.

lots of these devices (generic enough?) are using adhesive to attach rubber grips, conceal strips and even control buttons. when you need to lift them away to get at other parts, break out the hair dryer, use it at as high a temp that will not melt the things. adhesives will soften about body temperature 100 degrees farenheit enough to allow parts to separate with ease. go slow, be gentle and the parts can usually be simply re-attached with the same adhesive. double faced office/artist grade adhesive tape is good to use, once all original adhesive is removed.

ebay seller from chicago area has tons of nikon parts

rongyuanxie |

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(i'm not that seller)

isn't this procedure in the user manual?

i find when backing the screws out, it is important to make the point of the screwdriver perfectly aligned vertically to the screw. as that will keep all the driver ribs fully in contact with the screw slots. and once the screw is a half turn out i turn it back in a touch to release the plastic that has wound itself onto the screw threads (during initial assembly at factory). once that is done they seem to unscrew much easier. the wrong size driver is the reason most screw heads get stripped (its not the threads that strip!) the screw is metal and the body is a plastic and carbon fiber composite material. some screws are driven too hard into the material and seem to "fuse" as if there was some Locktite or other thread sealant applied. any harsh attempt to pry, twist or lever these cameras apart is due to 'hidden screws' that are concealed behind, under and out of plain view. even those in plain sight may be concealed under wires, flex connectors or simple kapton tape strips.