Tim D

Periodically, my iPhone 5s will lose its connection to Wifi. When I go into Settings, it recognizes my Wifi network, and...

On the door lock itself there is a manual tab to unlock the door. You can get to this tab by removing the top panel. Here is a video of it being done on a Whirlpool washer. Starts at 1:10. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3Spm4WC...

If there is no water in the icemaker mold at all (frozen or not): (1) Check the freezer temperatures. An icemaker will not work if the temp is above 20 degrees, and preferably should be below 15 degrees. (2) Check the fill tube for ice build up. Take a turkey baster with hot water and flush out the line. (3) Check water pressure coming into the fridge’s inlet valve. It should be a steady stream, strong enough to knock over a plastic cup. (4) Check the inlet valve. While checking the water pressure, check for gunk buildup in the inlet valve. Also check for leaks around the valve. Also the valve could just be bad. Because your fridge dispenses water at the door, you have double solenoid valve, and the icemaker side could be bad, while still having water at the door.

Your torsion spring is item #7 in the following image: The S-Shaped end of the spring goes onto the frame as shown in the image above. The other, L-Shaped end of the spring goes into hole in bracket #5, which is the “Lever Assembly Switch” (P/N 091917E701MA), Below is a pic of the bracket #5: You can see the hole in the middle of the bracket.

A number of things could explain the leak. The best course of action is to unstack the units, take the top panel off the washer and look for the leak. Start at the bottom and follow the water trail on up. Things to inspect: (1) Door boot: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-w10290499 (2) Drain pump: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-w10130913 (3) Drain hose: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-w10272563 (4) Tub-to-Pump hose: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-8540012 (5) Outer tub gaskets: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-8540090 and https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product...-0026-110/id-w10303340 Ultimately, there is no way to know until you follow the leak to its source. Could be a $5 fix or a $200 fix.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/rep...-guide/how-to-replace-a-range-radiant-surface-element

If I’m understanding your problem correctly, you are saying that when you turn the vacuum on, nothing happens. Then, when you tilt the handle back, the brush bar turns but nothing else. If this understanding is correct, it means your main motor isn’t working. There is a separate brush bar motor, which is working. Check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBmvbz4I... It shows the disassembly of the DC24 to the removal of the main motor. Pay particular attention starting at 8:00, where he disassembles the brush bar switch and the power harness to the main motor. Make sure nothing has come loose or obvious signs of damage. Then, at 21:00 he starts to remove the motor from the ball. This video shows installing a replacement main motor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jztEPw7u...

REF: https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf2/50/497...-craftsman/917276601_operators_manual.pdf... Above is the manual for you mower. This answer assumes that “won’t go into gear” means you can move the control lever into reverse, neutral and forward but the mower doesn’t actually move in those directions. If this assumption is wrong, and you can’t move the control lever itself, then you have a problem in the lever linkage or the transmission. Most likely your drive belt has either broken or come off the pulley. Pages 24-25 in the above manual shows the installation of the belt (“To Replace Motion Drive Belt”). In layman’s terms… Look under the mower right below the engine (It helps to drop the mower deck to its lowest position). You should see a shaft coming down with two pulleys attached (see Page 24, Item “M” in the Figure). There will be a small pulley towards the top of the shaft, and a larger pulley at the bottom of the shaft. You want to inspect the belt that goes around the top pulley - it should be...

REF: https://f01.justanswer.com/smitty1486/74...-7c73-413e-97ce-3d912ed75836_GHWN4250D+Tech+Sheet.pdf The above link is a mini-service bulletin for your washer. Before replacing the motor/inverter assembly, you want to check for error codes. First, go to page 2 of the service bulletin above and perform item 7 to check the motor status. Count the number of inverter status light flashes and refer to page 1 to decode the error. Besides the motor/inverter assembly, other possible issues are the lid switch, the drive belt , or the mode shifter. The error codes should help point you in the right direction. If the motor is reporting a normal status, perform field service mode on page 1 for other troubleshooting.

Start with the basic troubleshooting tips on page 18 of the Owner’s Manual (link below). For “Washer won’t spin” the manual says the possible causes are 1. Washer door is open, 2. Dispenser drawer is open, and/or 3. Load is too small. Next, check if the washer is giving off an error code . Essentially, if an error code occurs, the lights will flash and it will beep a number of times. The number of flashes is the error code. Then, it will pause for two seconds, and then repeat the error code. See page 23 of the Service Manual below for deciphering the error code. Next, go to page 7 of the Service Manual. Perform the diagnostic test. You’re most interested in paragraph 9 for the spin cycle. This will manually put the washer into spin, and perhaps throw an error code for you to diagnose. Finally, go to page 26 and perform test 9. Most likely, you problem is either the door switch assembly (see pages 12-13), the inverter or the motor (see page 21). Hopefully, you will have a clear error code. If not, test 9 on...

I suspect your neutral drain assembly of the transmission is not disengaging during the pause between the drain and spin cycles. When you open the lid and stop the engine, it removes enough pressure to allow the neutral drain assembly to disengage. You may want to make sure the timer is allowing a long enough pause between the drain and spin cycles to give the motor enough time to coast to a stop and disengage the neutral drain. It should be about 2 minutes. Also, here is a video replacing the neutral drain assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUOH67Wi...