Thank you for this guide. I have started on it and realize that doing this job could mean I can’t use the car for weeks at a time. That’s because if I do not buy parts ahead of time (which does make sense) and tear everything apart to diagnose it, well then I’m waiting a long time for parts before putting it all back together again. I’ve discovered I have a lock side leak— probably on driver side because driver passenger door was only door that didn’t lock during lock test from valve under hood— but I don’t want to buy the vacuum switch and actuators and so on before taking apart the doors and floors and checking. Then, of course, I have all that taken apart waiting for parts. :) Or maybe I’m getting something wrong.
Thank you. The one on my car says 15 x 23, and it's Cohline. I looked it up and it's a fuel hose, so someone may have used that. I'll try the one you recommend. For now, tightening the clamp has stopped the leak, but, as that came out of nowhere, I suspect the hose may go soon.
Thank you for this. I think this is my problem, and it's a relief, since I thought it was a transmission leak.
Two questions: 1) Any reason I have to have the braided hose if the psi rating is the same? The braided hose is much more expensive. 2) What size is the hose? You don't mention and I have to order it. (Your link on this page to buy the hose doesn't go anywhere.) Autozone's website thinks it's 7/16 or 9/16, yet the forums I looked at think it's 12mm.
Question: Why do I need to jack up the car? Can't I just turn the wheels with the tires on the ground?
Bu gerçekleştiğinde, zaman içinde kazandıkları itibarı gösteren grafiği görüntüleyebileceksiniz.
Grafiğin nasıl görüneceğine dair bir ön izleme:
Henüz itibar kazanılmadı.