Michael

The Component that is missing from my ip7+ Intel board is shown in picture. I am trying to figure out (With no Intel donor...

Iphone 7 Plus "Both" Cameras and Flash not working. Customer said that it had previous water damage, took it to a shop for...

Has anyone had any Iphone 7 BB CPU shorted yet? I have done several 4013 and -1 repairs on these and recently took in 2...

What hardware is related to the "Raise to wake" function that may be tied to the Home button being extremely laggy?

Gluing back with B7000 and under clamps for several hours would most likely work… However, the lcd for the 5S can be purchased for less than all the hassle of gluing the lcd back together. iPhone 5s Screen Replacement

If Phone worked fine, then most likely battery and LCD is fine. Battery most likely had a charge in it and couldn’t charge back up due to pry damage to the Moffset(s) in the picture. If you are handy with a multimeter or have magnification… look around the circled area for missing/lifted or damaged components needed to charge your battery. Or use a Multimeter in “Diode Mode” to take the readings of the battery connector and see if they are correct or show “OL” (Open Line).

I’ve done 100+ Audio IC repairs and to be honest… there is no “Typical” symptoms. I have seen Slow boot, boot loop, voice memo greyed out, voice memo gives error, voice memo starts but no sound recorded, Wifi Issues, Home button issues.. All from Audio IC Problems. Doesn’t mean its your issue, but Audio IC is the “Touch Disease” of the Iphone 7 series. Wouldn’t hurt to run the C12 jumper and possibly one of the other 3 classic jumpers on the “12” line and reball or replace Audio IC. Though not 100% that’s your issue… That’s what I would check :)

All Iphone models appear to have “Signature Faults”. Iphone 6 and 6 plus have Touch Disease, 6s and 6S Plus have backlight issues and 7 and 7 plus have a lot of Baseband and Audio IC Issues… So whatever your decision on upgrading, you are taking a chance of getting one or more of these issues. Having a New device is usually better in most situations as the battery is fresh, Newer IOS updates, etc… but if it’s not broke, Don’t fix it :) Save your 6S as a backup device and backup your data… try your new phone out and see how you like it. Some people swear by Apple devices, but I’ve been doing cell phone repair for several years now and I swear at them, Lol… I have a 90% + business fixing Iphones and the only times I see others are for broken screens, Charging ports or batteries for the most part. My honest advice… stay away from Apple

A Few things can cause this issue, (1) You received a bad charging port with a good Mic 2. The Charging Flex is not making a good connection to the board 3. You caused pry damage, knocking off or dislodging one of the small components in the surrounding area But first, unplug battery, remove screen assembly (So you dont damage flex cables)… and measure the board for 5v dc at the test point to see if you are receiving voltage from the port when plugged in. You can also measure the charging voltage at battery terminal if you are getting 5v to see if charging circuit is operating normally. Post back results after these first 2 things and also look carefully for pry damage

I have done this in the past by first making sure the Att phone is unlocked ( https://www.att.com/deviceunlock/#/ )… which is a good idea even if not changing carriers. Then go to to straight talk site to verify compatibility ( https://www.straighttalk.com/wps/portal/...-b5E0ynxjSEtN3V7vvLvbUd4cxG7qLWK5Vw6VXzWI...-MEdTE18Bm82vAAZBgOQcS3CJYrUewB8OA5yPmrdw... )… Go to walmart or purchase your straight talk Sim kit online :)

What is the History? When was it activated last? Why was it restored initially? Are you sure you are getting Wifi but not connecting to Wifi? Looks like signal is from Data (Sim), maybe try activating with another sim? Usually have a searching or no service if data (Baseband issue)… Is IMEI Clean? need just a little more info on what started it all and some background… Bad NAND programming can also cause it

I personally have used the 610a3b in place of all other versions of tristar and have not had any issues. As long as the replacement Tristar is from the same or more recent version, you should be fine. Just don’t use an older version on a newer device. I was scolded in the past from using the 610a3b in place of the 1610a1, a2, a3… but never had a problem from it :) But would always recommend using the original where available. I have done 2 of the Ipad Air over the last couple weeks and both times, changing Tristar would get it to charge while on but not while off or sleeping. Had to replace the PMIC to get it fully charging properly

It sounds as if @refectio is correct. You mention you opened it to perform a screen replacement. I would think you damaged the flex connector on the screen side (Better than home button side) & since you are replacing it anyway, the new LCD will have a god cable. Just be EXTREMELY careful removing the home button from the old screen and not damage it and you should have a successful repair. Use a bit of heat to soften the adhesive holding the home buton flex cable to the old screen and separate the connection to the home button and screen very carefully as well… (This is where the majority of mistakes are made). Always turn off the phone and disconnect the battery before doing any work on the phone or making any connections or disconnections. Battery is first thing undone and the last thing before powering up to test.

@douglasvinicio is mostly correct … Change the LCD. The IC responsible for touch is on the LCD Flex and not the logic board like the Iphone 6 and 6 plus. If the screen got cracked, then most likely even a bad digitizer. I also do not warranty my LCD’s after a break or water damage. I warranty my LCD’s for a lifetime provided they are not broken or obvious water damage. It is possible that the FPC Connectors are damaged, but from what you described, a new LCD will fix this issue and is needed next to continue your troubleshooting