If they anchor into plastic, you can go a little longer and/or bigger diameter. Just be sure to use stainless steel.

All heating appliances must have thermal fuses to prevent a fire. They’re in line with the power inside the case clipped to the heating element section. One version looks like a 3/16” diameter x 1/2” cylinder with an epoxy tapered plug in one end. One wire is attached at each end. Another common version is a 1/2” diameter x 3/8” high can with 2 mounting tabs and 2 spade lugs for the wires. I hope it has the rating marked, usually in Centigrade, otherwise you’ll have to find it. Thermal fuses are made in a wide variety of temperature ratings - it’s dangerous to guess it.

Replace the motor brushes. I’ve fixed Many tools that way. I hope the commutator isn’t too bad. Most people don’t know to look at the brushes / commutator arcing on all brush motor tools. If it’s a constant low level blue - all’s good. As yellow then white start appearing and the size of the flashes get bigger - replace brushes. When you get the new set, compare lengths. The longer it’s run with yellow white arcing getting worse, that’s damaging the commutator.

Do a search on make & model and “parts”. I’d also clean and reinstall it. Bare copper oxidizes and low level signals get corrupted. Also be certain as possible that the remote transmitter is issuing IR. I’ve never seen an IR remote receiver go bad, but Plenty of transmitters die for a variety of reasons. Another inexpensive option is to buy a universal remote that you verify has your make & model listed (remote mfgr website). Also carefully look for cracks in the flex ribbon conductors. Most past this calls for electronic instruments and use knowledge.

(1) download / get the manual (2) start at the 120VAC power feed and find where the break is (3) All ovens have various thermal fuses to prevent fires. (4) Not uncommon to have a primary thermal fuse blow when self-cleaning, you don’t state what preceded the failure (5) when found, replace ONLY with direct factory part # (6) no mention of a power surge / lightning hit either (7) you want quality answers - provide complete data

It’s intermittently skewing a sheet on picking one up. Be certain the paper is “fanned” when refilling. Static and humidity make pages want to stick together, “fanning” allows air to separate them. Check and cleaning the pickup rollers can help too.

The service manual is available (I looked). But I’d make sure I’ve got real 220 VAC on the power in. Humming motors are usually under excessive load or are under powered. Losing 1 leg of the 220 could easily be the issue. Check the easy stuff first. Good Hunting <<<)))

This sure sounds like the power supply got damaged. There’s a low voltage that runs all the time for the remote receiver to function, that may be bad but if it’s only the turn on/off aspect, it’s the power switching on the AC that’s gone bad. The intermittent aspect is related. I’m reading that you infer other remote functions are ok. If you are or know someone good in electronics, it “could” be fixed. Usually the best / easiest path is to get the make, model and serial number and find a replacement power supply board. There are some parts salvage houses that take in damaged units and harvest parts for resale. I’ve used them before with total success. Also, if you live fairly rural, get surge suppressors for all your electronic devices, especially ones that turn on/off by remote. Good Hunting <<<)))

I’ll add a fix I recently did: A series of models made by Whirlpool under various brand names has a “diverter”. This is an angled plate that distributes pressurized water throughout the cabinet. It is slowly rotated by a motor driven shaft that gets into the tub through a rubber seal. Eventually this seal leaks - not an if but a when. It doesn’t leak all that much, but once started it only gets worse. Here’s where you gotta “Love” the manufacturer - the seal is NOT available separately !! You have to buy a new tub bottom ~ $80. Worst aspect is Every active component mounts to it - motors, hoses, All of it. It also has a seal ~16” diameter !! This was my fix: 5/16” diameter heat shrink tubing used for sealing wires. You’ll want a heat gun - a hairdryer won’t do very well. One piece from bottom of shaft to ~3/4” from top, then a second piece from bottom to ~1/4” from top. This makes a step so the tubing won’t get pushed back by the seal. Put a light smear of Vasoline on the tubing and reassemble. If the...

Only if it’s the same part number. If yours isn’t marked, look them both up to check. The wrong TPS (throttle position sensor) could ruin other expensive things. Unless certain, get the right one.