Double sided tape might work but does not provide the same level of sealing round the edge of the screen. Any wetness round the screen will wick under and get into the electronics. You should use a new properly shaped glue strip.
This photo does not show the original glue strip round the edge of the bezel. When you try to lift the screen the glue strip will be stuck to the glass is some areas and the the bezel in others. The 3 strips shown are not orriginal!
Very small flat blade screwdriver under the edge of the connector with wires worked for me. Just needed a very gentle twist or wiggle. Suggest removing 3 before 2
And when re-assembling use the slot to push the connector back in.
The step misses out the cable going from the top of the screen to the camera circuit board. The connector on the camera board has a little slot. Use a flat bladed screwdriver to push the connector apart.
I found 2 black plastic blanking discs fitted over the screws. Just prise them out with something pointed. Looks like they are glued in so may need a dab of something to re-attach them.
The sides and front edge of the top panel have a lot of moulded in clips holding the top onto the bottom. I needed a spludger to lever the sides of the bottom case out to release the clips from the top
Hi, when re-assembling, if you find resistance to the board sliding right up to the rear panel make sure that the spring finger on the casing goes over the power connector not inside it. It fits much better that way!
Hi, I found that a slight wiggle while pressing down helped the pins slip through the holes
Hi, I managed to do this by just using fine, flat ended pliers to squeeze the barbs. I went end on to the pin head instead of from the side. Didn’t need to press on the heat sink side at all. A slight wiggle and the spring just pulled them through. Dead easy and didn’t break one on a 7 year old machine!
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