The app requires a force quit. In a chord, press command-option-escape, then select the App Store from the list of applications, then press the "Force Quit" button. Note that this will kill the app and lose any progress that you have. You can then re-open it and attempt the operation again.
Often the PlayStation will shut itself off if it's getting overheated. Make sure you give the console time to cool down after this happens, as you risk getting a Yellow Light of Death. If you're getting this issue frequently, I'd recommend opening up the console and using compressed air to clean out any dust. You can use a guide like the fan replacement guide to help you open up the system. If it happens infrequently, I wouldn't worry about it. It's happened to me before on long sessions of Little Big Planet Karting... that game is seriously addictive.
I'm more of a bike enthusiast than an expert, but it could be the wheel bearings. I would try taking it apart and cleaning / greasing the bearings. Hope this helps!
As the teardown says, the LCD is fused to the digitizer. This means that you can't repair one without replacing both parts. It's unfortunate that manufacturers do this to save a few millimeters of thickness, but fused parts are fairly standard in phones and other displays.
There's a firmware update for the PS3 which prevents jailbreaking. Certain models can be downgraded to allow a jailbreak while some cannot. If you can get the model number, there are some sites that will give you this information. You should do a Google search if you want more information.
If you have enough time to do so (before the phone shuts off) then delete some applications. If that doesn't work, you may have to hard reset the device.
Having owned one of these great machines, I can testify to the hinge problems I had towards the end of its life. As the hinge starts to break, the display cables within the hinge can start to fray and break. You've got a few options: (1) Continue to use the laptop until the screen is unusable. At that point, you can connect a display, keyboard, and mouse and close the lid. You have to watch out for heat with the lid closed, but your computer will live on. Alternatively, you could make it run Battery and LCD panel are failing, can I operate it "headless" safely?. (2) If you want to fix the problem, you'll have to replace the display. Unfortunately, you could probably buy an Intel MacBook for the price of the display, so this isn't really price-effective. Hope this helps! If this solves your problem, please come back and mark this answer as accepted. Thanks!
The antenna guide for this device shows some tiny screws on and behind the antenna that can be removed. After removing those screws, a spudger will get the case open. If this solves your problem, please come back and mark this answer as accepted. Thanks!
Asked a friend who's knowledgable in the subject (Mac Pro owner, Hackintosh enthusiast), here's what he had to say: "Yes, you'll be able to run the 7950 Mac Edition. (There is no 7970 for OS X, unfortunately). It's just not officially supported. "Also, according to BareFeats (http://www.barefeats.com/gpu7950.html) you'll need either Lion or Mountain Lion, and if you're running 10.7.5 or 10.8.2 you'll also need a special driver that comes on a disc. 10.8.3 does not need a special driver."
Unfortunately the logic boards are different shapes. These two laptops are from two different generations and two different sizes. What you are asking is impossible.
After removing the display, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the machine, different loudness for different levels of display brightness. Reading up on it, it seems that the problem is with the vertical sync cable (and this is a well-known issue with Apple with new machines, too). So be careful when reinserting this cable!
The springs go in the very front, on top of the transparent piece. It was hard for me to figure out the latest time around :)
I love that the 'handle with care' stamp has a companion cube in the middle :D
After removing the display, I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the machine, different loudness for different levels of display brightness. Reading up on it, it seems that the problem is with the vertical sync cable (and this is a well-known issue with Apple with new machines, too). So be careful when reinserting this cable!
I believe the requirements for Vista / 7 are 2+ GB of RAM (with 4 recommended). It certainly wouldn't run it fast, by any standards.