I’m curious why you originally replaced the pump? Was the unit working slowly before, or not at all? If the unit was already working slowly I would suggest you have some restriction, On this unit there is a screen and a filter. Check the screen and clean. Check the filter for proper flow. Check for a suck control valve. These can sometimes feel like they are opening and closing all the way using the lever, but the actual valve inside is not, resulting in a restriction. Check the ‘dump’ valve. This is a safety pressure relief type of bypass, check to make sure its closing properly. There is also a bypass which generally works like a regulator on this system. Pressure too high, opens, pressure too low closes. Check that the bypass is working properly Did you use the same oil viscosity? Its very important in hydraulics. I assume you check the hydraulic oil level… This is from the owners manual, I suggest you perform this test: 1320/1620 Owner’s-Operator’s Manual 8/30/18 Page 9 of 19 1320H/1620B TILLER...

To answer your question first, the short answer is I dont know if separate drivers one bad would give no signal to the whole panel, but my feeling is that since the screens are essentially divided (in some capacity) in all these type of panels that with one working driver you would get some sort of image, artifacts, color, or something. The fact that there is no image at all says something in and of itself. At this point I can only give you more general guidance.In repair work when an expected repair fails to fix the problem, one must determine if, at any point in the repair, something happened that caused a secondary problem, and if so what that might be. If not, then the original problem persists. In this case it appears your original problem is the same. If you dont have a bad connection somewhere your panel is likely bad IMHO. I would try the ‘wiggle’ test. using a mirror opposite you panel so you can see it and the unit on, try moving the wire and cables and see if you are able to get anything...

You seem technically inclined, but I will throw a few things out. Even tech heads miss simple stuff… Unplug it for 1 minute, check it again. unplug for 1 minute and hold power button (hard reset). check it again. unplug your signal cables, and see if you can at least get the menu up. sometimes a half plugged in or shorted cable can do weird stuff. connect it to the internet. these nosy machines are wired to snitch on everything you do, and may not work right until they can. check the power at the socket and the jack on the unit. we have ALL done it, so just make sure. try another input there could be a damaged jack or debris in the socket of an input. the power drop may have fries the panel…. If you get audio with the original power board, I would doubt its bad. Check the batteries in the remote, and make sure no buttons are stuck. could make weird things happen. All I can think of right now guy . Let us know how its going. edit: did you also have audio BEFORE ANY boards were changed? I ask because after...

I know this thread is old, but the info might be helpful to someone even if OP have solved their problem. I think he meant after driving, he shuts the truck off and it wont restart. Happened to me, several times, and by times, I mean it would happen for awhile then resolve itsself with no repair. Then later, many months, a year in one case begin again for no apparent reason. *sigh* while I was never able to pin this down %100, I believe it is the result of bad connections in on of about 4 wiring harnesses located under hood on the passenger side near the ECU. In the same time period that these happened, sporatically my charging gauge would (sometimes) drop to zero, then back up, then drop…. etc. The tale-tell sign was having an assistant crank engine while ‘wiggling’ wires near the ECU There is about 4 wiring harnesses there. The solution, at least so far, was to disconnect each plug, and using bright lights, micro picks, and magnifying glasses that you could clearly see jupiter with, carefully add a bit...

the body control module is responsible for controlling the power windows and door locks, but by FAR the most common problem is simply the large wiring plug and or wiring harness that runs to the control panel on the drivers door. Several times I have seen the control panel replaced when it was actually bad jacks on the wiring harness plug.

Figured it out yet. Old post, but first, I’m curious to know how your being notified the engine is overheating. I ask because the divisions on the gauge do not make sense. So if the gauge being around 210 is your only indication, it may not be as bad as you think OEM is 195 deg IIRC. Explanation: Using the numbers on the gauge as a reference divide between the marks, and you get different divisions. I’m not looking at mine now, but its something like - 100 - small line - big line - small line - 210 - small line - big line - small line - 260. 100 to 210 is 110 difference. Half would be 55. 100 to 260 is 160 half would be 80 making the center 180 not 210. You can try to do the math with the other division lines, nothing seems to work out *sigh* There should be about one needles width between your needle and the 210 line. If you are overheating though, here is a short checklist, not a complete list, and in no particular order. First make a list of things you have done to narrow the problem. Then… if you have...

I strongly recommend you to take this to a reputable repair shop. Often used music stores have a guy they work with… …If you insist on repairing this yourself, first contact Marshall and ask if they can supply you with the correct part. Send them the model number and tell them which part it is. This is you best and easiest option for DIY. If they cant or wont help you in that way, ask if they will supply you with either a schematic w/ parts list, or can give you the correct part number for the volume control pot. If that fails, its the hard road… you will need to remove the PCB, then unsolder the micro-pot from the PCB and inspect it for part numbers. Use a magnifying glass and bright light if nothing is obvious. If you find no numbers you will need to do a manual part search. First test the part and determine the maximum resistance. Then using a visual match figure out what ‘package’ the micro-pot is. locate a replacement, and cross-reference if necessary.

sounds like you disconnected something and forgot to reattach. Retrace your step as if you were going to perform the work again. I assume you removed the motor mounts to change the oil pan gasket. did you unhook the exhaust? It often has a heat shield of thin metal that might product a ‘rattling’ if not reattached.

Regarding loading your personal backup of you legally purchased game… IIRC some Cap…com games had an additional check. Been so long. Bad sectors I think, but the solution I think was to use a specific writing program. Blindwrite I think. Try running an old copy of Bleem! on a PC, and/or verify your hash to rule out corrupted file..

I agree with jayeff, cycling is indicative of power supply or mainboard problem. The power board is almost certainly your problem with bad/dried caps being my first check My exp with television CPU’s is manufacturers allow them to run HOT, but do not discount thermal cycling on the CPU…