I found this out too. I had two sealing kits and they were both meant to be fixed on the screen first. I did not managed to get the screen to stick with the body as well. Now used some B6000 glue in addition.
The metal shield is not relevant for this. You can leave it in place or remove it if it comes of. Once the screw of the plate is removed you will be able to lift the print a little bit and put someting between the battery connector and the board connector. The connector is beneath the print. Look further on to see a deck card is used for this.
Be very gentle when twisting. My screen broke in this step. I would not twist it but try to remove glue further as there is a aluminium support of the screen in the wide area beneath the light sensors and there is glue on that also preventing in easy lifting the screen. Just be careful not to damage the light sensors and camera.
I would not just order the LY battery. This depends on your manufacturing year. The LY battery has wires soldered onto it, but the old model does not have wires soldered onto it because there are contact points on the battery holder (like an old cell phone battery). Just open your mouse to be sure. Old model uses the L-L11 battery.
One tip: for the old model you don’t need to unscrew/remove the battery holder. Just take the battery out.