johann beda

The iMack bongs nicely, and the f14/f15 keys make the screen brighter and dimmer, but the screen stays black throughout...

Something that just bit me was that the PowerPC computers require a “Apple Partition Map” formatted drive to boot from rather than GUID which is needed to boot Intel based machines. I used SuperDuper! to clone the drive, but when I swapped it out it would not boot because I had used the wrong partition scheme.

Your comment about "pressure" is not consistent with my understanding of the physics and engineering. All of the Apple power supplies provide the same voltage (akin to pressure) how they differ is the maximum amount of electrical current that they CAN supply (and thus the power that they CAN supply) but they all only supply the amount of current and power that is determined by the characteristics of the device they are powering (the MacBook). Similarly, both AAA batteries and big fat D cells are 1.5 volts, and can power 1.5 volt electrical circuits, but the D cell will be able to provide more current at that voltage (if needed). If the device is designed to just take the maximum current that is available (which is actually a HARD thing to design), then yes it might suffer damage with a more powerful supply, but Apple's laptops only take as much current they are designed for (which is a natural consequence of how electricity works) and do not rely on the power supply to provide current protections.

It looks like a complet HD replacement guide is now available at iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 Hard Drive Replacement.

There is a guide for removing the bezel iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 Front Bezel Replacement, but I haven't created the rest of the items for removing the HD. Basically it is the same as iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Hard Drive Replacement with some slight changes of the cable positions and screw lengths.

There is a guide for removing the bezel iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 Front Bezel Replacement, but I haven't created the rest of the items for removing the HD. Basically it is the same as iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Hard Drive Replacement with some slight changes of the cable positions and screw lengths.

I just created a guide for this by essentially copying the one over from the 20" model: iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 RAM Replacement

I just used a couple of suction cups that were holding our soap dish to the shower wall. There is a guide at iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 Glass Panel Replacement.

There is an installation guide: iMac Intel 24" EMC 2267 RAM Replacement, it is pretty much the same as for the 20" model: iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Repair

When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

Heating the wrist-pad area and carefully using a plastic card to separate the adhesive allowed me to remove the battery without needing to use the solvent or removing the track-pad. No need for taping the speakers.

A 3.0 Hex driver worked for the T25 spacer screw.

Rather than unscrew the antenna cables, I usually unscrew the screws on the board and slide out the whole AirPort/Bluetooth module, which means I need not keep track of which antenna cable goes where.

I found removing the speaker (be careful of the antenna wire in the slot along the outside edge) made re-assembly much easier and it might have helped with disassembly.

I found removing the speaker (be careful of the antenna wire in the slot along the outside edge) made re-assembly much easier and it might have helped with disassembly.

A T9 bit fits and grips the screws tight enough to make it easier to work with the deep 4.7mm screw.

The thermal sensor cable is just two wires - it4art is suggesting plugging a tiny wire jumper between the two holes in the cable to create a short-circuit. I do not know how this impacts the system. I tend to use “Macs Fan Control” for these types of things.

If the drive was not formatted has HFS+ by Disk Utility.app it may not be recognized by the installer. I usually format and install a system on a drive before intalling it inside the machine, but you can use Target Disk mode or maybe Internet Recovery to format it after installation.

I typically just use duct-tape to hold it in place.