Jesse Hooton

I have a customer that dropped off a studio because it had died. She used it the night before and went to use it the next...

I have this used Dell desktop I’m trying to use but it’s protected by a BIOS or HDD password. Is there any way I can reset...

I have a customer with some eTalk flip phone from verizon and it is currently having an issue where it automatically...

Did you use a premium/OEM charge port? The X and above are picky when it comes to aftermarket ports although the most common issue I see is the phone will bootloop if you use anything other than an OEM port. And the port is connected properly to the board correct?

When you power off your device it does require you to type in the passcode before it can activate touchID. But there is a chance you could’ve damaged the flex cable that connects to the home button and a replacement screen should fix that.

Manufacturers love to hide screws under rubber feet. Try prying that rubber base off.

Are you getting any kind of warning message when trying to charge the device? Samsung put a temperature sensor on the wireless charging coil and if the sensor isn’t working or not communicating with the device it will give a false temp reading and the device will think it’s too low to charge. There are contact pins at the top. Make sure they aren’t damaged or missing and make sure the screws in that area are in place.

If you could post pictures of the problem that would be helpful. But by the sounds of it, the screen needs replacement in order to fix those lines. As far as the cause of them I’m not sure. Is there any separation or gaps around the edge of the device? That could indicate a swollen battery which can cause damage to the display, resulting in these lines.

A lot of shops will use ZXW to at least view the board and see where everything connects. As far as schematics you’ll have to find those online.

If your machine is still under warranty I would take it to Apple ASAP. If you need the data reach out to Rossmann Repair.

If I’m understanding your question, you replaced your port because it died and wouldn’t charge no matter how long you left it on the charger for, correct? If that’s the case, it may not have been the charge port itself. If you use non MFI (Made for iPhone/iPod/iPad) accessories like the ones you can find for cheap at gas stations, eBay, Amazon, etc. then you most likely damaged TriStar. TriStar is a usb validating chip inside your phone and can get damaged when using these lower quality accessories as they lack proper surge protection. There are a couple ways you can go about diagnosing this issue. You can order a USB ammeter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=sr_1_15?dchil...-15 . Plug this into a wall brick and then connect the charger to the ammeter and pay attention to the numbers next to the letter “A” which stands for amps the device is drawing. If it jumps between 0.00 and 0.01 amps that’s a pretty good indicator. There’s also...

There could be a chance it's defective. If you have a volt meter you can probe the battery contacts in the connector to get a voltage reading.

Was the battery that bad in a 2 year old machine that you needed to replace it? I’m not trying to judge. Just curious why you replaced it so soon? I have a 2013 13” retina pro that just started giving me a “battery service” message last year and it held up pretty well. Unfortunately, Apple doesn’t sell OEM parts to anyone unless you’re an AASP so the batteries that are available are aftermarket or pulled from donor machines. If someone is selling you an OEM battery then they’re either lying or it was, as I mentioned before, pulled from a donor device. I myself have a cellphone, tablet, and computer repair shop and a part of some online forums and groups and some have discussed the quality of these aftermarket batteries in that they don’t compare to the OEM ones. One member even stated he’s had a customer come to him twice to replace her macbook battery. The OEM one went bad and the aftermarket replacement went bad after two years. This is something Right to Repair can help resolve by requiring...

Can the TouchID keyboard be purchased separately if the original seems to fail? I’m looking on Apple’s website and it doesn’t appear to be available, at least for the time being.

I would like to add that you’ll need a special tool to read and copy the serial number to the new Taptic Engine so that it will provide proper feedback.