I'm not sure, but there seem to be a slight gap on the inside of the "bars" on the cable side of the connector. If this is the case it would indicate that you should press the sides of the connector together in order release it. Hard to be sure from this angle. And those metal levers shouldn't be for the connector, but rather to secure the individual cables themselves into the connector. These shouldn't get out of the connector. Make sure that you don't grip the cables, you should grip the connector (not the side soldered to the board of course). Sometimes these connectors are just extremely tight without any mechanism holding them in and they are just hold in place by friction. If this is the case, you will just have to keep wiggling it out carefully. Just make sure to try and hold the side soldered to the board down as well so you don't accidentally tare it of the board. Hope this was helpful despite me writing this from my phone and good luck! :D

I can't find a video of your specific model, but I found one that has a similar model to yours. I would guess that was the video you found and watched yourself, since it shows screws under the feet. But you don't have the exact same model, based on how close the screw hole on yours is to the foot I would say that it's way closer to the foot on your model. Since I can't find anything about your exact model, I can't say this for sure. But I would guess that there isn't any screw below the feet of your laptop, this is solely based on how close the screw is to the middle of the foot. I would start with removing all visible screws, then gently try to insert the thin blue opening pics between the two sides of the laptop in order to open up the clips still holding the parts together even though the screws are removed. Since there could be missed screws, just be careful in case you feel any resistance when trying to separate the halves, especially around where the feet are placed. Hope this was helpful! :D

There is a delicate ribbon cable that connects the touchpad, this is probably where the fault is. Start with following the first steps in the guide for replacing the screen, to the point where you can see the trackpad ribbon cable. (cable in the image below) Now when you see this cable, make sure that its connector is properly seated in its position, if it isn't this will most likely solve your problem. If the above didn't solve your problem, this ribbon may have been damaged during your repair. Look if there are any marks, bends, etc. on the ribbon and if so your problem may be caused by a bad ribbon. If you're unsure, add a picture of the ribbon in your post and someone may look and see if they think its the problem, you can't be sure just from a picture but you can usually get some idea.

With "not working" I assume that you mean that your computer won't detect the monitor when you connect it to the laptop. The first thing to check is if it's the laptop something is wrong with or if it's the monitor that is having problems. Have you tried using more than one monitor when trying to make it work? If you haven't, you should try that out since the problem may be with your monitor rather than your laptop. If it works with another monitor, the problem is with the monitor you are using to use and not the computer itself. Another way to get an idea of the problem is that if your laptop's display doesn't work either, there may be something wrong with your computer itself. It's hard to say much without more information, so if you could add some more information I or someone else maybe could find some more specific help. Hope this was helpful and good luck solving your problem! :D

Meaning of error: The heating failure error is caused by the printer thinking that the selected temperature is reached too slow, this can be caused by some unknown temporary fault and a reset is all that is needed. Your Solution: I have never heard of this causing the problem, but since you were able to print other files than the one you get the error on, I get a feeling that there may not be something wrong with the printer itself and that it is caused by an error in the sliced print file. So try reslicing the 3D model and try printing with the new file again. If the problem is only for longer prints and not shorter ones since you have tried most of the things under "Usual Solutions", but I have added a few things more than the ones you tried. Especially the one about a loose heater/temperature sensor and check if the heater is the faulty part. Usual Solutions: ( I know that you have tried most the steps below, I will just write them for others having the same problem in the future. ) If you keep getting...

I don't know that much about this specific printer, what I do know on the other hand is what the three typical issues causing this problem are. This mechanism is almost the same for most printers of this type and the parts usually aren't hard to remove and are only mounted with one or a few visible screws. Just in case double check what temperature is selected in the slicer settings, just in case something for wrong there. The next thing you should try is to check all the cables, look for damages and make sure that the cables are fully connected to the hotend and motherboard side. If none of that is the problem, there is most likely a problem with either the heater or the temperature sensor. Start with manually heating the hotend using the printer's interface, all printers I know show the temperature the printer thinks the hotend has. Using this, check if the temperature of the hotend changes to the selected temperature. If the shown temperature is lower than the one you have selected after some time,...

If they don't look the same, you probably have bought parts for the wrong model. Contact the support for the seller and tell them your problem and hopefully, they will be able to help you solve the problem by allowing you to change to the correct part. I can't guarantee this is possible but I would give it a try, depending on the seller it may very well be possible.

It's most likely the charger or the port on the headset that's worn or being filled up with dust, making it have a bad connection. I would start with really carefully cleaning the charger port on the headset, start with turning the headset off and then carefully trying to get the dust out using some type of needle or something else that's thin. Then I would try using another charger, the headset seems to be using a micro USB charger. Not too long ago all Android phones used this kind of charger, and most other small electronics still use this port as well. So you probably have one available at home to try out. If it doesn't work with another charger, it's probably the charger port on the headset that is bad and would need a replacement. I can't really say if it would be easy or not to replace this. But come back if this seems to be the problem and someone will try and help you solve that! Good luck and hope this helped! :D

This probably won't help, but it's worth a try. And that's cleaning them, preferably with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. If that doesn't help, you will probably need to replace the whole joy-con, I don't really know how it looks in the Quest Controller but I'm 99.9% sure that it's using the same design as everyone else. So you may need to figure out how to get it apart yourself. The problem is in the design where after some time the surface in the joy-con that the signal goes through is worn off and loses contact. Hope this helped! :D

I can tell you that it's a Torx bit, but it's hard to see what size it is and I can't find it online. But I would guess the bit size is somewhere between T3 to T8. Update: Thanks for the documentation, they are M2 Torx4 (T4) screws. From my understanding, the "L" just means that it's one of that L shaped tools normally used for Allan/hex keys. So a normal T4 bit should work without any problem.