assortedrubbish

The broken plastic is most likely what allows/forces the connection to stay just where it should be. A cable/USB cable doesn't have the same problem as it's made to fit snug at any angle. You may need to either find a replacement casing for the ipod, or put something on the dock that it can lean onto to be pushed back to where it should be. It only needs to be a tiny amount off center to not be able to work properly.

I've had a few screens do odd things, but I've not worked on an actual Ipad so I'm not sure, but I've fixed many phones/tablets/PC's etc, so I'm assuming this could be the same kind of problem ? On some, it's literally just been dust/dirt/finger prints causing the touch sensor to get wrong readings (usually if a mark is hidden on the inside of the touch panel. Some cannot cope with even a tiny amount of grit/dust at the edges of the panel. The odd thing to me is that some can take all kinds of abuse and still work perfectly, even with large scratches and marks on, as well as dirt and grease. Note that some types of cleaning chemicals can also apparently have an effect on the special surface coating of some kinds of touch panel, but I cant say if that's happened to me or not, I do often clean screens using liquid Windowlene (not the cream version). If a screen goes crazy at a certain point of fitting, i'd try (if possible) to lay in one end first, and then take it off and lay in the other end instead - just to...

I'm curious about something here, how do many technicians imagine that an ESD mat is used or required ? It's not supposed to be connected to live or grounded things to remove household electricity, it's to discharge the built-up static from ourselves as we move around. As we move, we make up a static charge, any kind of movement where there is friction creates this effect. Rubber and other non-conductive chemicals don't allow this to happen, or to be more accurate they just reduce the flow of atoms to so few it become next to nothing. A neat test as I use to show students, is to buy one of them $1 screwdriver/mains testers, looks like a flat blade screwdriver but has a red LED - this lights when it senses power, and especially when it picks up static - I have students walk over different surfaces, wearing different shoes, clothing etc. Try bare feet and a nice woolly sweatshirt lol. Anyway, the idea is this, as far as I see it to be (like electricity, there are many ideas of just what it is). . . . You, and y...

Odd answers given here :-( Its really really bad for people to keep leaving answers that are just a base level vague guess at something they heard from a man in the street lol. Dave, there ain't any screws in the iphone range that go in the direction of the LCD, and are long enough to reach let alone do any damage. Plus you can have the phones working as with most things without even having screws in anywhere - many engineers do bench tests before a rebuild - especially on an item with 30+ intricate 2mm screws. CydiaAddict, what on ear use is this text ? Why not wait, get the part, then let readers know if it actually did or didnt fix it ? Saying a part is on order? well that's about as much use as me saying I wear slippers, and they go on my feet somewhere. Nothing to add, no information to gain :-( The iphone 4s i'm now fixing is having a flickering unreadable screen, but a 2nd new screen from a different supplier didn't fix the problem. Neither did contact cleaning/reseating, cable replacing, master reset ...

It's not possible for a wrong screen to become damaged, or to cause damage, as the cables just send picture signals on all standard LVDS cables (that's the flat type, ribbon connections that fit in the rear of the screen). The actual voltage cables only go through the inverter circuit which is a totally separate part of the screen setup. You mentioned that the laptop is now staying in sleep mode, but how do you know ? Some have the power LED flash on/off slowly so i'm assuming that is what you mean? To know if the laptop is working when turned on, press the CAPS LOCk key a few times after turning on. The CAPS LED will flash if it's running but you just cannot see the display. If it has another type of fault, it won't change. It's very easy to break the ribbon cables to screens even if they still look perfect, but the most common thing is that it's damaged the flat socket on the screen itself :( They often get pushed in too hard or at an angle and cause tiny faults, and ive even found ones where the cables bee...

Maybe you could download one of the free boot discs such UBCD (that can be found by google searching on your gaming PC, and written to a disc on that if you have a CD writer). I'd use the command CHKDSK /F in DOS if possible, because although scandisk is native to Windows 95, it's not as good at finding errors as chkdsk is. The /F option tells chkdsk to automatically fix anything bad that it finds, either in boot records, faulty files etc. I usually attach drives like yours onto an external USB hard drive adaptor, and then have a fully working PC do the repair scanning. If you dont have a USB adaptor like that, then the UBCD mentioned above has a variety of things for checking drives. Windows 95 was well known for suddenly getting the odd corrupt file for apparently no reason from what I recall. Serial mice ? lol, i remember them, I still have 4 in my collection of good old stuff (i'm a collector & engineer, that's my excuse). Hope you do get it running again, good luck with it.

Glad to hear you got it sorted Vadr64 :) Thanks for getting back and letting everybody know.

It may be now that the fixing which the screw goes into (usually seen as a copper colored barrel shape), is broken away from the laptop casing itself :( So no matter what you do, the whole screw and barrel will just be spinning around. The only thing i can suggest now is to use a 0.5mm drill (hard to find, and you've gotta be soooo gentle with them), and tap a small hole into the remains of the screw shaft - then use a smaller sharp ended screw to grip the old one, and hope it can move it. If the screw and barrel really are turning, then the screw is probably so tight in the barrel that you can only drill the whole thing out till it gives up and falls out. One other method I've used a few times successfully is to use a cutting disc on a small drill (a very thin one), and make a slice in the top of the screw head - then a flat blade screwdriver can turn it as normal. Screws are a wonderful thing, until they just wont unscrew :(

Hi there. First thing i'd say is a big noooo to WD-40 :( it's not the right kind of lubricant for a drive like this. The drive needs to have 90% precision at least to be able to work, and WD-40 evaporates fast leaving a coating but not a lubricating one. On the drives I fix, i just use a small bit of standard vaseline gell on the shafts, just enough to be dragged along , but never too much so it cannot touch any other parts around (get that stuff on a DVD and it takes ages to get it back off lol). The laser should not be capable of going past the end of a disc because of the length of possible travel on its shafts, but if it insist on just shooting off to the far edge, it may need to have the spindle reset again in the right place - the logic board may be assuming the outer edge is not where it really is. I don't have a 360 here to check it on, but I assume from others that you should detach the cable from the motor, turn the unit on so it thinks it's taken the head to the correct place, turn off, then refit ...

I agree too, sounds like memory at fault. Check the memory you're trying matches the speed of the original. If it's got more than one memory slot, try both, and if possible, blow into the memory slot to clear out any dust that may cause it to make bad contact deep inside. I have a DELL 6400 here with me now that's had that problem, I fixed one part and rebuilt it, but dust/fluff was all around a RAM slot and some got pushed inside causing the memory to fail randomly. It's been running fine for 5 hours since it was cleaned with an air-can. Good luck.

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

:) Several very odd responses to this teardown, so I'll be the first to say.....

Thanks very very much Eric and other contributers, for taking the time to leave this guide. It's perfect and helped me get the thing apart without killing it - aint they a pain when they keep turning back on? I just want to mention thsi one extra bit.....

Be careful when prizing the back off the phone, it stuck so well on the one I've just done (even though I've fixed dozens of phones and am very familiar with the 'heating up' process to soften the glue, well in fidlling about with it, I was horrified to see I'd pressed the buttons in just the right way to get it to boot into its RECOVERY menu, and one more button press would have erased the customers contents!! *gulps*.

This happened despite the fact that the phones battery has been so flat it could never turn on beyond showing the Flat Battery logo - still had enough power to get into Recovery LoL.

Many thanks again Eric :-)