I imagine you could get a replacement card slot, but I think the hardest part about that would be to de-solder the old one off and solder the new one on. I don't know how many points it's soldered on by. You get access to the card slot pretty early in this guide and then you could look and know. I wasn't paying much attention to the card slots honestly.

Hi Lio, glad you liked it and were able to follow! This is really fun for me to see people use the guide.

I don't know how to order that gray frame specifically. I would imagine the best way to obtain one would be to buy a broken a7iii and assume that part isn't broken since it isn't a moving part.

Notice the third bullet point in step 27. The loose screw was EXACTLY the problem I had with my camera:

"You can see the repaired mounts on my sensor block. The bottom screw had come out and the top mounts broke as a result. The loose bottom screw was also jamming in my shutter unit and made me think the shutter unit was broken."

I didn't even replace the shutter because I hadn't bought one yet so I gambled that mine was okay and put it back together and it's is still working.

Happy to hear you fixed yours!

Sounds to me like the switch gradually went bad, but I don't know. Sounds like the camera is still usable right? Maybe take the battery out when you are done. You could try physically toggling the switch somehow but I'm not even sure it's really a "power on power off" switch or something that tells the motherboard to turn on or off.

I would say maybe take it apart until you remove the ribbon cable that goes to the LCD and re-install it. If the strips aren't too bad though it might not be worth the risk.

Sounds interesting and risky to remove a filter from the sensor. I don't know much about that specifically. I can say as it says in step 26 that the shim markings are 1/100mm, so the total thickness of any of them is around half mm. I would NOT think you would want to remove the shims because they aren't just for space, they are to make the sensor flat with the camera case / lens mount. If you remove them or put them back in a different location, you undo the factory calibration of having the sensor FLAT with the image the lens is projecting. I wouldn't think you would want that at all. Also, without the shims you might have the issue of the sensor interfering with the camera case.

I would think you would just remove the filter. Although I don't really know how you would do that either because it might be glued on. I didn't see an extra filter piece you could remove easily.

- I was able to see where that screw is and I circled the fourth screw in the picture in step 25. Thank you for the input.

- Why did you want to remove the shims? They seem really important and if you remove them I would think the sensor could be too close to the camera housing and possibly interfere, right? I would think removing the shims could break the camera (maybe, maybe not, but I wouldn't remove them).

Great to hear you used the guide! Thanks for sharing.

I'm glad it helped! Thanks for letting me know.

I didn't put it back together because mine had too much leaked battery damage. I hoped by writing this tear-down it would help the next person take theirs apart and damage it as little as possible and be able to reassemble it if there wasn't damage. The best answer to your question I can give is: reassembly is the reverse of the tear-down.