In the late-2011 model, is TB0T actually in the battery? Which of these sensors should I trust? The last 2 vary extremely...

I've got some pads of various thicknesses. Where would I put them? Just anywhere that ensures they contact the unibody...

Genuine Apple chargers are expensive and shipping costs would make it even more-so. Let's try to save this one....

My last battery was 3rd-party and cheap, and I assumed that was the culprit, but after replacing it with another better...

Yes, it's an old laptop, and I left for 2 weeks, and it rained and it was humid and now the laptop's display doesn't work...

2 weeks ago: spilled a small amount of water on keyboard. Immediately flipped upside down, shut down, partially...

Dropped my phone. Everything is fine, except the signal bars just display a "!" and quick-settings drop-down shows "No...

(1) After getting thermal pad replacements, I cut them to size and re-attached the black heatsink that covers those 2 chips near the CPU. (2) Re-applied a different thermal paste with a higher thermal conductivity (3) Following some others' examples on where/how to do the thermal pad to unibody heatsink mod on macbook pros, I layered a few pads in the only place where it's possible on this 13" model. I also removed the little black tape and double-sided tape there, cause we know better than Apple. See photos below for amazing results. Results: Much better idle temps. Haven't spiked to 99° like it was doing before. Idling around 50-60. I know it should be lower, but the paste is at least 6 years old, so that could be a factor. Less of a paste, more of a "dough" at this point... Also: 2 other cool mods I'd like to try some day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISXOc3gY... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3mRlah3...

Interesting. Yeah the trackpad and my smartphone's touchscreen (connected via usb) all acted up while it was orange-light & buzzing. Good stuff. Solder joint broke on the fuse bypass -- pushed it back into place. Some sparks. A pop. This charger is dead. I'm going to experiment with 60W USB-C charger as I already have the USB-C to Magsafe adapter.

Fixed it by: Using heat to open up the phone, taking the screen off, accessing the board. Disconnecting and reconnecting the little flat-top connectors near the center of the phone. (Didn't touch the coaxials at all surprisingly). And that's it!