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Not exactly. True Tone function in M1 and above models is dependent on whether the LCD’s serial hash matches the hash of the Logicboard. This serial is stored on a chip that is soldered on the T-con board that comes with the inner LCD. The reason why people say True Tone works with inner LCD replacement is only true for M1 14inch and 16inch models because Apple went a step further to disable the entire screen function if the serial does not match the xx after an LCD replacement, unless it is calibrated (paired) by their GSX technician. To resolve this issue, the third-party industry now de-solders the chipset containing the serial from the old LCD’s T-con board to solder it on the new inner LCD. It can be done with a full LCD assembly AS WELL, but it’s seldom done as it is riskier to damage an expensive full LCD assembly.
Devamını okuThis just means you have damaged the display, especially in the connector part in the process of swapping. The battery MUST be disconnected and you need to make sure your hands aren't full of static. Only the True Tone will be affected if the LCD is not calibrated after replacement by Apple. The webcam, auto brightness and other issues will NOT be affected by an LCD swap. You can use good OEMs or originals - it doesn't matter. We have replaced 20-30 pieces in our shops without a single issue with webcam.
Devamını okuBoth the methods detailed in the URLs do not work.
Devamını okuOnly M1 models pair the LCD to the Logicboard. All Intel models are not affected. If you lose that function, it’s because you have bought a Low quality part. Even good third party OEM LCDs have True Tone. From what I know, there’s only 1-2 large Chinese firm that distributes original LCD assemblies to the smaller Chinese firms. Please do not spread disinformation. Only iPhones are paired. For Macs, only M1 models and above are paired. 2016-2020 Intel models do not have such issues. That said, Apple may have slowly removed that restriction. I’ve just replaced a MacBook Air 2020 M1 original LCD, and to my surprise, True Tone worked. I cannot confirm what are models have that restriction removed, and whether it’s done at the MacOS firmware level, or at the LCD I/C board level.
Devamını okuIntel MacBook Air and MacBook Pro LCDs do not have security features and are NOT paired to the Logicboard. True Tone will work (both third-party and original. Only M1 and above models are paired. True Tone will be disabled but auto brightness and FaceTime Camera works. They are serialised, but only for the purpose of verifying your warranty to ensure your Mac comes with the same LCD it is sold with, and even then not all Apple stores check them. The hinges for the Macbook Pro 13” 2016-2017 (A1708/A1706) are physically different from 2018-2019 (A1989/A2159). This only applies to original Apple parts though. Aftermarket third party OEM LCD assemblies may reuse the same shell but put in a different LCD inside. In any case, if you use a 2016-2017 on a 2018-2019 Macbook Pro, not only will True Tone not work, the entire LCD will be extremely dim after it logins to the desktop to the point it is nearly not visible. So if the display works, but there’s no True Tone, it means your OEM or Third Party part or the...
Devamını okuThe information Dan posted is incorrect. You may have damage some lcd connector pins while replacing or your OEM screen is of poor quality. All screens for all models before M1 can be replaced without losing any functionality. True Tone will work. I have just replaced a 2019 16” model. Only M1 models have the LCDs paired with the Logicboard. If the lcd is replaced, True Tone will be disabled. FaceTime camera will still work though.
Devamını okuYes the 2014-2015 panels and 2017 are different in terms of paper specifications (brightness) but they ACTUALLY CAN BE SWAPPED. I own a repair shop and we have swapped and tested them. This is the model for the iMac 27” 2014-2015 display. Installed in a iMac 27” 2017 as our customer wanted to use the older model as it is cheaper. Brightness control, Face Time camera, everything works. Technical specs on paper is one thing, trying out the actual part is another. There’s a reason why shop technicians don’t like to comment too much in iFixit. We are loaded with tons of customers. We don’t wish to be debating enthusiasts when we are trying to be helpful.
Devamını okuThis is not entirely true. The 2016 LCD is compatible with the 2015 but not vice-versa. Everything works and it can sleep if you use a later MacOS. I cannot remember if it has to be Mojave and above, but Catalina definitely works. I have installed the 2016 LCD in a 2015 Macbook before.
Devamını okuNVMe M.2 drives do work with the iMac 5K 2015 and 2017 as well as the Macbook Air 13" 2015 and the Macbook Pro Retina 13" 2015 out of the box with the correct adaptor. It appears that only particular versions and brand of the adaptor works well. The 2013-2014 Macs need a modded firmware to work well. @danj has mentioned in another thread that adaptors might have massive CRC issues, but he did the test 1 year back. No sure if the adaptors that the Macrumors users are using are newer versions that seem to work very well. Check out this link. Someone used a Samsung EVO 970 drive in his iMac 5K 2017 without any issues. The HDD is upgradable without a thermal sensor if you use a temperature control app. You can use Macs Fan control or SSD fan control. Both will work. The SSD only version comes with a 3.5" Hard Drive bracket but not the SATA cable.
Devamını okuThe newer black Sintech adaptor sold on Amazon seemed to be working very well with a number of users on the Macrumors thread at Upgrading 2013/2014 Macbook Pro SSD to M.2 NVMe The thread title is misleading. A lot of users are using Samsung NVMe M.2 drives with 2015 Macs without issues. 2013-2014 Macs would require a modded EFI firmware or some workaround to work reliably.
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It is not necessary to remove the motherboard. The battery cable runs underneath the logicboard, but is not adhere to it. You can slide it out once the battery is loose.
@shamino No. The port on the right side of the fan screwed down by a metal plate is a port where a flex cable to the Touch Bar is connected to. The Touch Bar has two cables, one that sends input to the logicboard, and another that sends display signals and power to the Touch Bar.
This guide wasted a bit of my time! Removing the speakers and the battery are unnecessary. The top piece of the battery can be lifted to reveal the trackpad cable once the screws at the sides are removed.
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