As with most mice, the large lever/button you push with your finger activates a very small microswitch. If this switch is damaged or defective, the actuator on it may get stuck in either the up or down position, or simply lose its tactile click. If the button is just sticking, you may be able to correct the issue by opening the mouse's outer shell, and using a precision screwdriver to pry up the edge of the actuator (usually a white circle inside a square black shell). Otherwise, a replacement will be necessary - the microswitches are cheap and fairly generic, but this will require basic soldering.
I used the guide below to replace/re-attach the LCD and digitizer into the front frame. Sat the phone face down on a paper towel with books on it, while on a 3d printer bed heated to 80 degrees C, for total of about 20 minutes (IR thermometer measured screen/frame at around 65C). Will see how well this holds up…
Used this as a guide to replace the LCD and digitizer in Motorola Droid Mini (XT1030). Main difference is that the screen is not held in by screws, only adhesives. Sat the phone face down on a paper towel with books on it, while on a 3d printer bed heated to 80 degrees C, for total of about 20 minutes (IR thermometer measured screen/frame at around 65C). Will see how well this holds up…
1 - Use a triangular “guitar-pick” spudger, starting near the outer edge of L1 and R1.
2 - My above pin reference is incorrect! Pin 1 of the micro-USB port (+5V) is connected to the last trace in the ribbon cable. The above mod disabled the LED as planned, but it also prevented the controller from charging.
Have now affixed black electrical tape behind the front diffuser panel. While this negates any battery savings, it does allow the touch-pad to show the status, and is a lot faster than trying to cover up three tiny wires which are in the middle of the cable….
Be extremely careful when soldering. I recently took apart the “for Windows" wired version, and the fragility of the circuit board's connection pads, even the ones for the USB wiring, was astonishing.
A few notes on this, with regards to the PS4 Slim’s revision of the controller:
1 - Opening the case with plastic spudgers WILL damage the case, and will make the seam stand out where the patterned and smooth pieces meet.
2 - The LED is an RGB unit. Pinout with the LED up and its pins facing you, from left to right: Ground, Green, Blue, Red.
3 - On this model, the ribbon cable is reduced to 10 wires. PCB Socket pinout where pin 10 is closest to the LED: (10) Ground, (09) Blue, (08) Red, (07) Green.
I was hoping to only disable the normally-on blue LED. It would prevent me from knowing the controller is on, but not from knowing if it is charging. As the cable layout makes this a non-trivial alteration, I settled for putting a piece of scotch tape over all four LED wires of the ribbon cable, folding the rest of the tape over the back side to keep it secure, and trimming the excess. This model has an extra/smaller light bar on top, it may be more convenient to just back the main translucent panel with electrical tape.
There are screw bits made specially to extract stripped screws, but if the screw isn't too far below the surface it's going through, the cheap way is to file or grind a slot into the head so you can extract it with a jeweller's flathead.
My N7 had a bad USB connection... It worked fine to charge, but the connection kept dropping randomly when using the USBOTG functions. Pulled the I/O cable out and re-soldered all of the USB socket's pins, works great now.
I had ordered a new socket (Tyco Electronics part 1554266-1, ~$2) in case it needed to be replaced. I didn't end up using it but it looks like it should fit and it has a good solid lock.
Thanks for the guide. Used it to open up a Nuvi 265 because the battery had been left to discharge below the protection circuit's limit. Connected the battery leads (Green = ground, Red = voltage, Black = temperature) to a 5v USB charger for ~20 seconds to revive the protection circuit, and the unit is now charging again. If you're going to do this, know the risks. Thermal runaways in lithium batteries can be extremely volatile.
I used the guide below to replace/re-attach the LCD and digitizer into the front frame. Sat the phone face down on a paper towel with books on it, while on a 3d printer bed heated to 80 degrees C, for total of about 20 minutes (IR thermometer measured screen/frame at around 65C). Will see how well this holds up…
iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement
Used this as a guide to replace the LCD and digitizer in Motorola Droid Mini (XT1030). Main difference is that the screen is not held in by screws, only adhesives. Sat the phone face down on a paper towel with books on it, while on a 3d printer bed heated to 80 degrees C, for total of about 20 minutes (IR thermometer measured screen/frame at around 65C). Will see how well this holds up…
After more experience, a few revisions:
1 - Use a triangular “guitar-pick” spudger, starting near the outer edge of L1 and R1.
2 - My above pin reference is incorrect! Pin 1 of the micro-USB port (+5V) is connected to the last trace in the ribbon cable. The above mod disabled the LED as planned, but it also prevented the controller from charging.
Have now affixed black electrical tape behind the front diffuser panel. While this negates any battery savings, it does allow the touch-pad to show the status, and is a lot faster than trying to cover up three tiny wires which are in the middle of the cable….
Be extremely careful when soldering. I recently took apart the “for Windows" wired version, and the fragility of the circuit board's connection pads, even the ones for the USB wiring, was astonishing.
A few notes on this, with regards to the PS4 Slim’s revision of the controller:
1 - Opening the case with plastic spudgers WILL damage the case, and will make the seam stand out where the patterned and smooth pieces meet.
2 - The LED is an RGB unit. Pinout with the LED up and its pins facing you, from left to right: Ground, Green, Blue, Red.
3 - On this model, the ribbon cable is reduced to 10 wires. PCB Socket pinout where pin 10 is closest to the LED: (10) Ground, (09) Blue, (08) Red, (07) Green.
I was hoping to only disable the normally-on blue LED. It would prevent me from knowing the controller is on, but not from knowing if it is charging. As the cable layout makes this a non-trivial alteration, I settled for putting a piece of scotch tape over all four LED wires of the ribbon cable, folding the rest of the tape over the back side to keep it secure, and trimming the excess. This model has an extra/smaller light bar on top, it may be more convenient to just back the main translucent panel with electrical tape.
There are screw bits made specially to extract stripped screws, but if the screw isn't too far below the surface it's going through, the cheap way is to file or grind a slot into the head so you can extract it with a jeweller's flathead.
My N7 had a bad USB connection... It worked fine to charge, but the connection kept dropping randomly when using the USBOTG functions. Pulled the I/O cable out and re-soldered all of the USB socket's pins, works great now.
I had ordered a new socket (Tyco Electronics part 1554266-1, ~$2) in case it needed to be replaced. I didn't end up using it but it looks like it should fit and it has a good solid lock.
Thanks for the guide. Used it to open up a Nuvi 265 because the battery had been left to discharge below the protection circuit's limit. Connected the battery leads (Green = ground, Red = voltage, Black = temperature) to a 5v USB charger for ~20 seconds to revive the protection circuit, and the unit is now charging again. If you're going to do this, know the risks. Thermal runaways in lithium batteries can be extremely volatile.