tcagle53

Have you looked under the mower deck to see if there is debris stuck in blades like wood or rock or wire?

That is normal I believe. If you are using with windows OS, have you checked to see if your driver is recognizing the device in control panel?

You will likely need to format that 2nd partition with a linux compatible file system in all probability. All sandisk sticks I have used come with a single FAT32 filesystems on them. I don’t think you can create a bootable linux image on such a filesystem. What created the two partitions you have ? Also what type filesystems are currently on each of the two partitions you have?

Does your device have an hdmi port ? If so have you tried to attach it to a TV to see if your display electronics may be the issue?

Battery is either weak/dying or your charging system is not functioning properly. If charged and running you should get 13.5 to 14.0 volts across the battery terminal if the charging system is working. Another less likely possibility is a parasitic current drain when the unit is turned off. You can place a test light in series with either battery terminal to test for this. If the light glows (even dimly) you have something drawing current which will drain the battery over time.

Sounds like the installation may have an issue if there were problems with the unit struggling to startup from the get go. I have a four wheel steer JD tractor and it’s design allows the primary drive belt of the deck to be removed easily and then you can turn the actual driven side of the mower deck by hand and see if you feel resistance on the driven side of the deck. If you try this and it feels stiff turning by hand…. you may have found the issue. You will have to dissassemble and find the real issue in your installation though.

Current Briggs&Stratton ohv engines have a known tendency for the valve lash adjustments to back off and become very loose over time. If you have one of these units you should adjust them at least once a season to correct clearance specification. Find specifications on line based on model number stamped on valve cover. If the push rod has fallen out you should remove it and inspect to ensure it has not become bent due to the abuse it suffered while operating with so much excessive clearance (another common failure).

It appears both ram and ssd are of the soldered in variety on this model. You do have the option of adding SD card storage not sure what is the largest supported size for that media but shouldn’t be hard to look into online.

Have you tried to jumper 12 volts to the small terminal on the starter solenoid to see if the starter switch in the column lock may be worn out and causing the problem? If that is the case, then yes wiring a aftermarket simple button to start the vehicle would be a trivial fix for you.

That is definitely a software or firmware issue. These are practically the same thing on a chromebook. If you are trying to recover any content on the SSD you may be out of luck without some of the heroics outlined here: https://wiki.mrchromebox.tech/Unbricking If you read that carefully you will note that mrchromebox can probably solve your issue and maybe even preserve your SSD content in the process. You will have to discuss that process with him though. It won’t be free though I am sure. If you don’t care about ANY content in the SSD. Then by all means press space bar at step 3. You will of course need your google login/password to get your cloud content back working again. Good luck @kashifanwaar The developer mode is kind of a double edged sword. Enabling it allows you more power and the opportunity to really do hurtful stuff to your chromebook. As shipped it is pretty hard to mess up a chromebook since you don’t really have privileges to damage much of the software/firmware that it comes with.

Heißluftgebläse … 404

Removed dead link on "8mb” (orange bullet point).

Marvell Avastar 88W8782U link is 404

Apparently content no longer supported by vendor

You are welcome! How about some reputation love? See the big blue button above? Also sorry about dropping the ball on the wiki markup. I have fixed my earlier omission on that front by surrounding the command to cut/paste in the step 3 bullet points by surrounding them with wiki markup tags and removing the useless quotes I had tried earlier.

Link if you like or not your choice... https://www.ifixit.com/Story/20263/Creat....

I looked up the model number of that unit on google and found the dimension for thickness of that drive is 9.5mm so..... no it won't fit.

I just checked my original guide and I gave the thickness of my upgrade drive as 7mm NOT 10mm. If any drive you are considering is thicker than 7mm you can forget it because it won't fit in the chromebooks thin drive compartment.

That link is to a SSHD not an SSD. A SSHD is still a rotating magnetic media drive. As such it will drain your battery even faster than the stock drive does. It also doesn't give any dimensions for the device. I am not sure if all 2.5" drives have the same dimension in the thickness (smallest) of the three dimensions. I believe the SSD I used was 10mm thick. If you can find the dimension specs and it is similar it will work but you may find your battery life of your chromebook suffers to some extent. If you just want a little more storage the SD card slot is an much easier way to get more storage.

The power button becomes non-functional on my AL1912 ... note similar model number. I fixit it about once a year like this Press and Hold these three buttons on the lower control panel:

> (right arrow) + Menu + Power

When the power comes on you are done.

Consider this me paying it forward. You can skip all the heroics above now.

The power button becomes non-functional on my AL1912 ... note similar model number. I fixit it about once a year like this Press and Hold these three buttons on the lower control panel:

> (right arrow) + Menu + Power

When the power comes on you are done.

Consider this me paying it forward. You can skip all the heroics above now.