tcagle53

Apparently this is a common issue with these. Mine lasted about 8 yrs before the left switch started going flaky. I would have fixed with a new micro switch but the above guide from “prop man” gives a link to the switches that says “not available” currently. More supply chain woes I guess. :( I Bought a new one for $18. Next time I will cannabilize the right switch from this old one and save my money. I have just recently started doing a lot of data entry into genealogy web sites that must have spelled the end for it.

This sounds like one of: 1) dirty (corroded) battery terminals … clean them 2) dead battery … charge it 3) failed battery or charging system … replace battery … repair charging system However, if you have or can borrow some jumper cables… will it start with those connected to a good battery?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144136709688?ch...-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=144136709688&targetid=4...-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchanti... or take it apart and measure them and order as appropriate.

Read this: WD External Hard drive isn't accesible or take my word for it… You may be stuck with whatever services WD may offer to recover your data. In future: There are many cheap usb 3.0 enclosures for any standard sata drive of your choice. Such a device will be far more reliable than anything marketed under the name you have posted this question under.

Go to an auto parts store and buy a mirror glue kit. Follow the instructions included with the kit. Wait the required time for curing the glue of the base plate to glass connection. Remount the mirror. Done. Cleaning the old glue and oil (from your fingertips even) off the window and the base plate is important!

Did you read the ifixit procedure for doing this ? Then the answer appears to be yes they did it wrong.

It might help you to Add images to existing questions.

It is not obvious to me that “it is not a cable problem”. That is exactly what it looks like to me or at worst problem with the HDMI socket of the TV or the connections boards etc. Also the TV turning itself on is totally abnormal as well.

If you are talking wooden/graphite pencil I would not be too concerned, it will leave via the exhaust port pretty quickly with the engine running. The materials in a pencil are not hard enough to cause any damage. I don’t believe the wedge heads of a Corvair engine pose any risk of piston energy being transferred to the actual valve heads either. Many more modern designs with hemispherical head and canted valve configurations could pose a risk with soft materials like pencil fragments becoming captured under an open valve lip as it closes leading to piston valve interference damage. I don’t expect that could happen with the Corvair engine though. If you are OCD you might decide to dismantle or try using a borescope and a flexible tool to grab and extract the piece(s). Back in the day (1970’s) we routinely removed fragments of VW accelerator pump arms that fell into those engines from the Solex carburetors (a common failure mode). The fix was pouring about 16 ounces of tap water down the carburetor at...

(1) Check in the settings on the home screen widget and see if the time zone has been set incorrectly. (2) Also check settings->system->date&time and see what time zone you have set there. (3) Correct whichever is needed.

Thanks for the useful input Cameron. I added a follow up note to the heading here. Now I am going shopping for a more modern used chromebook.

Glad it helped you. Unfortunately as time has gone on ink jet printers have evolved and many now leverage these updating facilities to add “features” to printers that are not really in the consumer’s interest. I am thinking primarily of locking you into using exclusive OEM ink cartridges and the so-called waste boxes and so forth. If the manufacturers would put as much effort into building robust paper handling mechanisms as they do to trying to lock you into their supplies they might realize some actual brand loyalty love. Rant mode off.

Sorry I don’t know what the meaning of the following terminologies are:

1) fx11

2) thumbstick with that ios and…

Having said that, if you want to preserve the image of your original media you can easily dd from that device to a linux system to create an image backup of the current content of your original CB sdd. I have installed a windows image on this hardware and it is pretty worthless from a performance perspective. I would definitely recommend against that course of action.

Is the #2 option greyed out (I suspect it is)? Your device is not UEFI compatible with the current version of the mrchromebox scripts. You can run it with the RW Legacy firmware. But I see here: ( https://wiki.galliumos.org/Hardware_Comp... ) that your particular chromebook has/had issues with both the sound device and the suspend/resume functionality at least in GalliumOS. I use debian on my ancient chromebook so don’t know much about your “Apollo Lake” device. You may find some hope here: https://github.com/GalliumOS/galliumos-d...

Disclaimer: that last looks like it may entail some advanced fiddling with special cables and devices you might not want to risk using. Is this device still getting google updates?

What manufacturer and model/year is your machine?

As I stated in the intro newer CB’s are not really covered by this document. I may be able to incorporate your additional steps here if I decide that they are useful for some newer system. Feel free to use this content to create your own guide for your particular machine if you so desire.

Motherboard replacement

I have never dismantled my personal wave radio but after looking at your pics @turnkit I would suggest the following:

Using a razor saw cut the melted portions of the “rivets” off. I recommend wearing gloves while doing that. I suffered many cuts from those nasty things in my youth working with plastic models! Another perhaps easier option is to grind off the melted portions with a dremel or other rotary tool with a small sanding drum or other suitable tool bit. You should be able to reattach with a dab of epoxy over the tops of these when you are finished servicing the innards of the button panel. Ours still works perfectly after nearly 25 years, we rarely use the alarm or even the radio anymore as we are retired. It is a fine clock radio and has always maintained settings and time through all those years of flakey rural electric service outtages.

Fixed dead URL for USB/SATA adapter device acquisition in next to last bullet point under step four above.

Checking if feasible……. from the HP documentation page, which I can hardly believe an five year old link I setup under the device page on ifixit.com STILL WORKS!!!!!

product documentation

From manual above on page 1….

Memory One SODIMM memory module slot Dual-channel memory support DDR3L-1600 MHz Dual Channel support DDR3-1333 MHz support (DDR3L-1600 downgraded to DDR3-1333) Supports up to 4 GB of system RAM in the following configurations: ● 4096 MB total system memory (4096 MB × 1) ● 2048 MB total system memory (2048 MB × 1)

So the answer to your question is there is no benefit/downside unless you are trying to get your device to an inoperable state (I am assuming since I’ve not actually tried).

Thanks for the info. I have added a comment below the first bullet point in next step. Does it just fail silently or does it provide some sort of error message?