Hi Mikkel Rasmussen, I have finally encountered one of these faults in the wild. My thoughts immediately went to the magnetic wake sensor. Essentially your intuition is right on the money: replacing the sensor is the solution. Alternatively fitting a complete glass and digitizer assembly that comes with the magnetic wake sensor is what I would advise for those who want a time effective solution. Though replacing the sensor itself is probably the most profitable solution. I hope this helps :)
Short answer is yes, you can. Longer answer is that you really want to get the LCD Digitizer and Glass Assembly. It is still going to require some bowler tech adhesive (or any REAL 3M 300LSE, i.e. not from eBay). If you are lucky the assembly will come with some adhesive from factory. Just make sure you pull the back cover off, pop the battery and remove the midframe. This will require removing all the screws and a cables. Note, CON0101 is easier to remove from the board on the midframe (the one that J6803 is also connected to) than the mainboard. Be very careful when removing it. Also keep in mind to completely remove the LCD cable (J4501), as it is unlikely that you will get a replacement with your screen assembly. After that it is just a matter of using some heat and tools to work the glass from the frame. With a little effort it should come out nicely. And as always ensure that you remove all traces of adhesive from the frame before seating the new screen, isopropyl and a flat razor blade work well and...
Hi, I had this issue and replaced the front camera flex and it worked fine. After close inspection I found that the LDR (I am guessing that is what it is), that comes across and sits below the screw mount for the long screw, was damaged. It was clearly sitting wrong and when the long screw was driven into the mount, the component has sustained damage. This worked well, I assume it isnt a universal fix, but it may be a fix for some folks out there! Cheers, Calvino @ Esperto Group
Hi Ernest, As the others have said this could be a quality issue, however I have had similar issues with the iPhone 6+ which was easily rectified. The iPhone 6+ has two rather long connectors from the LCD and Digitizer Assembly, one for each respectively. Due to their length, these connectors sometimes have issues making full contact with the headers. As they are slightly malleable, you will find they often flex in a concave fashion, or perhaps one end will be lifted. Removing and straightening the connectors so that they make full contact with the header is a quick fix, and can sometimes get you out of trouble if a new screen isn't displaying or the digitizer isn't functioning correctly. Again, this may not be the issue, but as the iPhone 6+ has longer connectors for the screen assembly, it is worth checking out. Calvin