Dan Dunham

you might try taking a drill bit with your hands to see if it will grab the screw enough to loosen it.

it has most likely bent something or dislodged something just enough to rub against the fan impeller. it’s possible that there is a piece of paper or something like that in there as well. the first thing I would do is get a can of compressed air and blow in to the fan and see if dust and or debris is blown out. if that does not work then you will most likely need to have it serviced, I know you can get in to those but I don’t know enough to tell you how without causing more damage. I bet this site has teardowns on your model so you can see if you want to tackle it yourself.

go back in and check all your cables would be my first suggestion. second, if you have a usb keyboard you might try that.

assuming the power brick does not have slots or holes in it for heat dissipation just wipe it down with a wet wipe. as long as it wasnt submerged it should be ok

you should be able to simply use a USB connection from the mac to the amp. I assume your mac does not have any other digital audio output available like SPDF.

My best guess on this is that the power board or power supply that switches from battery to wall power is having a problem. and or the battery itself is having a problem. The clicking noise makes me think its the power board itself. I have never worked on a laptop like this so I don’t know the details of how it’s made, if it has a changeable battery you might start there.

Hi leo, I have an Imac mid 2011 27inch that I did exactly this on but I did not write down any steps. I ended up using OSX on the SSD. at any rate I found a few guides that look fairly decent. https://www.intowindows.com/how-to-install-windows-8-1-on-mac-without-boot-camp/ https://www.wikigain.com/install-windows-10-mac-os-without-bootcamp/ One word of advice. If there is anything on that old drive you care about make sure you back it up in two places before touching the machine. I backup to the cloud as well as to a local drive. When I installed windows 10 on the mac I simply created a windows 10 boot thumb drive and booted from that after I installed the SSD. I then let windows partition the disk and install as normal. it worked fine but I decided to go back to OSX as I did not have a license for windows and did not want to purchase one. besides I like OSX just as much as windows. I find it more stable by a long shot. I did make a video on tearing down and replacing the hard disk on my system. I don’t...

check out my short video on the problems I had. it might help. How to repair video on Mid 2011 27 inch iMac

That sounds much like the GPU issue I had with mine. There are actually two video cards in this model. one for low res and the other for high. I think you might find that when you start loading things that require higher res graphics it will start to fail again. Thats exactly how mine reacted when doing the same thing. At any rate, I put together a short video for how to repair it. it does not always work but I found a method that has worked well so far regardless of how hard I push the graphics. I hope this helps. How to repair video on Mid 2011 27 inch iMac

something you can try is to “bake” the GPU . this is not necessarily a permanent fix but I have found it to work permanently on several machines I have. I did this on my Imac and it has continued to work for at least 4 months without issue. hear is a link to the video. https://youtu.be/5aQPPaeczyM

If that receiver uses the same sound processing chip that mine did then you will most likely continue to see unstable performance from it. It's just a bad design. You can try and bake the board BUT since it sounds like you receiver works ok after its turned on you might just leave it on. Iddle current is not high on these so it's not like your waisting much electricity to just leave it on. You'd use more electricity trying to fix it with a board bake than just leaving it on. With that said if you are having other issues then it might be worth a try. Just remember that at the end of the day I was not able to actually fix the problem.

I considered buying some of the replacement chips just to see if I could repair it but I made such a mess of getting the old chip off that I decided against it. With the 5 piece min. I didn't want to spend the money on it rather than a new unit with updated processing. If somebody tries it please update this thread.

Hey Kaleb,. I missed you question but to get that cap out you'll just want to desolder it with a desoldering tool of some sort and pull it out. You could just heat the lead up and pull each side out individually but that's going to put more stress on the cap and is kinda messy.

That sounds about right, it seems that these chips are very unstable and you can get all sorts of strange problems from them. Mine would work for about a day or two after heating it and then it would start clicking in and out and then fail completely and would not come back. I assume Yamaha got a bad batch of chips and I have heard similar complaints about other brands as well. It's too bad TI didn't step up and pay for the repairs but that's how things go these days.

That's great news! And thanks for the detailed response. This is a method I have used for several computer systems that developed problems with their GPUs. I believe what is happening is that over time with the heating and cooling cycles the solder joints under the chips themselves develop faults and eventually stop conducting properly. Basically this baking process remelts the solder in the connections and allows proper contact to the GPU or CPU or whatever chip it is. So far this fix is working well for me so I hope you experience the same.