I will assume that the receiver is old enough to have a real volume control as opposed to a “digital” one. That being said, older systems have open controls that can get dirty. Using a switch cleaner spray that contains a lubricant as well should resolve this. In detail: volume controls have a fixed resistance coil between 2 of the three tabs on the unit. The third is connected to a “wiper” that makes contact with that resistance coil (or flat surface) and varies the resistance for the circuit which is seen as a change in the volume. If there is dirt, dust,debris present, the contact may be briefly interrupted which will result in the noise that you hear. Using the spray will not only remove any debris from the unit, it will also provide a protective layer that should prevent the problem from recurring for quite a while. This is a common failure that is easily remedied. Dan
If you are referencing the pins on the inside of the connector, then no. It can be replaced however. This is best done by someone with experience and should not be attempted otherwise. The connector itself costs less than $10. This is a simple repair for an experienced service provider and should take about an hour if the part is in stock. It takes longer to get to the part than it does to replace it. Dan
From what I can see from the service manual, a good cleaning may be all that is needed. There will need to be some dis-assembly however. This is not something that should be done for the first time. The relevant parts are listed below. A-1861-457-A RL-128 Board complete (Board on the top of the camera that has the “switch” on it. 4-416-599-01 Plate, rotary (This is the part that rotates to make contacts. ie. switch) I only have a paper copy of the manual with no easy way to upload the relevant pages. There may be a copy online somewhere though. Note: There are specific instructions for proper installation/alignment of the switch that must be followed in the manual as well. Hope this helps. Dan
Typically this type of behavior is indicative of a failing laser. Try playing a number of standard CDs. If these all work without fail, it suggests that the laser is starting to weaken. If you have already cleaned the lens, then the “simple” fixes have already been applied. At this point, changing the optics assembly is the next step.
The component you circled can be either a diode or transistor. It has 3 leads and is the SOT-23 case style. Look at the top and get the code that should be written there. Search for that code like this on google: “SMD CODE xx” where xx is the code you read. That should help to determine the part. Dan
If I recall correctly, both inputs feed op amp circuits (4558 ICs I think). I would check those first. I have seen these fail relatively commonly. This will involve removing the unit from the cabinet. Follow the circuit from the input jack to locate the IC. It should be an 8-pin IC with the number 4558 on it. Update this with any progress you make. Dan
The problem is not likely to be the transformer. A failure of that part would result in a completely non-functioning receiver. I would rather suspect a coupling cap that is bad as well as other components. Please post additional pictures of the insides. There could be a power supply problem, but I would suspect either the coupling cap or a problem in the final amp stage. If the problem was in the pre-amp stage, it would change with the volume control. Dan
Reading a CD but with skipping suggest either a dirty lens or a failing laser. I would first clean the lens using a cotton swab and some alcohol. Be gentle as the lens is supported by small fine wires only. Next, clean the rails that the laser assembly rides on. What happens is this: The laser will fire and try to detect the CD/DVD. Assuming that it can see the disk (in your case it can), then the disk will spin and the optics will attempt to read the index track. It looks like the index is being read for the CD but not in the case of the DVD/Game. DVDs and games require higher laser power to be read. A sign of laser failure is to read CDs but not DVD/Games. Sometimes cleaning resolves the problem. The skipping can be the laser as well. But most often, is dirt on the rails. The lens will move enough to read a few tracks before the motor kicks in for the gross movement of the entire assembly. Try cleaning and report back with the results. Dan
Since this unit “works” as expected after a warm-up period,I would first look for any poor solder connections around the motor control IC. If I recall correctly, there should be two ICs marked BA6209 or BA6219 (most common for units of this vintage) that are the motor drivers. When playing a CD, there are two movements that take place to provide continual reading of the disc. First is the lens itself that changes angle to read the track (fine movement) followed by the motor rotating the shaft to physically move the optics assembly (gross movement). Both of these happen somewhat simultaneously to give a smooth movement overall to read the disc in a spiral fashion. From what you are describing, the CD system gets lost and the gross movement from one end to the other over the disc is to locate its last position from which it will continue. This can happen for a few reasons. I suspect that the gross movement is not controlled correctly which is causing the optics to overshoot the track. When this happens, the...