@oldturkey03 - yes, I think if the panel were bad, there would be an indication in the video that was seen when it was dark. One side dark would indicate there was 2 strings of LEDs. If that connector on the board goes to the LEDs then it has 4 wires and would support that. Then if both start going out, that would more point to the PSU. Remote diagnosis is definitely flawed.
I have one that is intermittent also. I think it is the contacts inside the socket. They are a spring hump design. If you are careful, you may be able to lift them using a fine tweezer. They won’t need to come up much. Get the tweezer point just under the hump and lift it slightly. Do all 4.
not finding a manual. best guess is that it is running on automatic and the moisture sensor is telling it it is dry. When it goes off, is the control on OFF or does it stop in the cycle? If it is on OFF then it is a function of the moisture sensor. That drives the control faster when it is dry.
generally, those pieces are like latches and pivot on one end. When pushed down they secure the ribbon against the contacts. If the pivots have broken off, the best you can do is to put it back on top of the ribbon and try to secure it with some stiff super strong packing tape. You might add a piece of foam as you assemble it to try to put pressure in it.
Buy a cheap, broken calculator not a brand new one. Unfortunately, it’s quite difficult to find a broken TI 84 Plus CE. It’s also very difficult to find replacement parts since TI sources many parts directly from manufacturers. Go to ebay and search for TI84. There are a lot of options but I did not see broken ones
this is a list of the error codes https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/err...-codes/washer-repair/1234598/kenmore-he5-front-load-washer/0582 F99 is the control F32 is water level sensor. Given your testing, I am leaning toward the control, but since a sensor is a lot cheaper, I would test that first.
That appears to be a 20 yo mower. It was recalled fora leaking gas tank. That is no longer available because Murray is out of business. Replacing the engine will involve careful research into finding an engine that is form, fit, and function the same. Then it is a matter of finding someone mechanically minded enough to figure it all out.
This is from another model response, but I suspect it is probably similar. It may also have latches on the bottom Once you have all the screws out from the back you want to wack the panel from the bottom towards the top of the tv. Essentially there are fixed screws that the back panel is resting on like a picture rests on a screw in the wall. So you want to push it up in the same plane as the tv panel. If you force the back away from the tv you will break those snaps. There are around 4 or 5 screws across the you inside the cover so it can take a lot of controlled force to knock the panel off the screws.